demetri

And a happy new year to you.
 
Excellent question. How stupid if me.
Website Seahorse: https://seahorse.pl/en/
 
Good luck

Hello
and Happy new year! Where could I buy the kit? Any email address or website ... Thank you.

Hello
and Happy new year! Where could I buy the kit? Any email address or website ... Thank you.

Hello
and Happy new year! Where could I buy the kit? Any email address or website ... Thank you.

I would like to present my last job in cardboard, the soviet torpedo boat D-3 class. I hope you like it.

Thanks for all the likes again.
Just a bit of progress on the long boat (I used some black heat shrink for the Gudgeons).
Still have to add the knees on the Thwarts and figure out how to make the iron step on the bowsprit. I am also not 100% happy with the windlass yet and may give that one another go. But in general I'm pretty happy how she looks...
The two last photo's were made after dark in the shed so the colour is a bit all over the place.

Thanks Al and Christos and also thanks for the likes.
A few more photos with some progress.
The first photo's are a mix with the kit supplied 1.2mm cannon balls and the 2mm balls I purchased. Surprisingly the smaller ones have won out (so far). The larger balls just look way too big compared to the carronades. They are not glued in yet so I can still change my mind.
To say that the top fife rails are fragile is giving them too much credit. I broke both the top and bottom by gently trying to take the char off. I salvaged them because they broke at different places so I could still glue them together. The pump is also in progress.
I had a bugger of a time deciding on the paint for the ships wheel. I just couldn't find the right wood colour. In the end I listened to the Admiral (again....sigh) and painted it with a metallic gold enamel paint, black acrylic to paint the iron rings and matt oil based varnish over the lot.  I can already see some paint experts shaking their heads in disbelief but hey, I think it did the trick...lol
Here are the photo's
 

Just sharing some more photos of the fun I'm having with the deck fittings.
I've finished the capstan and the binnacle (no handles yet..). I'm pleased with the binnacle which turned out pretty good (but I'm biased... I made it....).
The ladder for the companionway is in and the companionway itself is in progress. The doors need to clear the cannon balls so I will need to make my mind up choosing the smaller or bigger ones. I'm leaning towards the bigger ones. They are in the mail today so I'll make up a strip soon. I also dry fitted the ships wheel. So far so good.
Peter

After several attempts I finally have a stern balcony... at least the center section.  The ends and side spindles just attached on the side windows should be much easier, at least that is what I keep telling myself.  Just need to mount the balcony to the stern, sure, that should be easy.

Tom,
 
Hope everyone has an enjoyable holiday season!

Thank you for your interest in "Eagle" 1847,
 
Work continues on bulwark/hull painting, cap rails, trim pieces, etc. Key points include:
 
>>> Inner bulwarks painted (unpainted areas left for fore staysail horse and catheads)
>>> Exterior bulwarks/upper hull painted
>>> Cap rails/poop planksheer painted/fitted
>>> Forward caprail pieces left loose for bowsprit installation
>>> Thick pads for rooster tails (boat davits) fitted
>>> Bulwark molding trim painted/fitted
>>> Transom molding trim/fancy piece painted/fitted
>>> Ships name/hailing port installed on transom
>>> LESSONS LEARNED - FUTURE BUILDS, HEAD RAILS SHOULD BE FITTED PRIOR TO HULL PAINT
>>> LESSONS LEARNED - FUTURE BUILDS, WHITE FOR SHIP's NAME/HAILING PORT WOULD STAND OUT BETTER
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Thank you for your interest in "Eagle" 1847,
 
With deck planking complete, next steps are transom planking, bulwark framing, and upper hull planking. Key points include:
 
Transom Planking
>>> Transom planking was cut from 3/64" sheet stock to provide the expanded shape
>>> Fancy pieces were final shaped in place
>>> Transom planking was sequenced prior to hull/bulwark planking
 
Bulwark Framing
>>> Planksheer/covering boards were fabricated with slots for timberheads
>>> Every 3rd timberhead was slotted into hull block; slots were easly cut with a sharp razor blade and fine chisel
>>> A single inner plank and upper bulwark plank were used to fair the timberheads
>>> Space between above planks filled with sq stock to provide a solid base for cap rails
>>> Bulwark planks 1/32" x 3/32"
>>> Hull planks 3/64" x 1/8"
>>> LESSONS LEARNED - SLOT EVERY TIMBERHEAD INTO THE HULL BLOCK (every 2nd will work on side)
>>> LESSONS LEARNED - LEAVE ADDED MATERIAL ON THE FORWARD TIMBERHEADS TO FAIR IN PLACE
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Welcome to the Topsail Schooner "Eagle" 1847 build log,
 
With the masts, spars, and sails complete its time to bring all the pieces together.  Key points include:
 
Bowsprit & Jobboom:
>>> Bowsprit set up
>>> Jibboom and dolphan striker set up and fitted
>>> Head rigging (bowsprit, dolphin striker, and jibboom rigging) fitted
>>> Balance of head rigging will be completed when fore stays are rigged after fore mast installation
>>> NOTE: HEAD RIGGING INCLUDES BOWSPRIT SHROUDS AND JIBBOOM GUYS NOT SHOWN ON THE ORIGINAL DRAWINGS; DETAILS WERE TAKEN FROM CONTEMPORARY SHIP MODEL PLANS
 
Ship's Boat:
>>> Falls for the ship's boat were fitted; final installation will follow rigging completion
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Thank you for your interest and comments on "Eagle" 1847,
 
Before starting masts/rigging, I will cover fabrication and installation of the ship's boat. Key points include:
 
>>> Ship's boat was fabricated using Bob Hunt's mini-practicum on Ship's Boats
>>> Ship's boat was fabricated from laminated basswood sheet with a CL bulkhead
>>> Boat interior was carved out using rotary tools (picture attached)
>>> Oar locks were silver soldered
>>> After painting, the ship's boat was rigged to the boat davits
>>> Final installation and boat's outfit will follow rigging completion
 
Following posts will address masting, rigging setup, sail making, and brining it all together.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Welcome to the Topsail Schooner "Eagle" 1847 build log,
 
Finishing up with the deck furniture, key points include:
 
>>> Main sheet horse fitted
>>> Shinkicker steering gear design/fabricated/painted/installed
>>> Steering gear design based on "Eagle" 1847 and "Kate Cory" 1856 drawings
>>> Belaying pins fitted to poop deck rails
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Thank you Slainte! I'm going to keep what you said in mind next time I need aluminum paint. I'm just going to leave it how it is at this point. 
  I put the stairs and the rest of the railings on. So basically its almost done.  I can almost install it onto the Bismarck. 

all thats left is the ships bell.  Then It can atleast be put onto the ship. I just wish the bell was brass instead of aluminium. I'm debating  whether or not to paint it like I painted the props under the ship. 

so bell, install onto ship then I will deal with the range finder. 

Hello all. You might have noticed my absence but I’m still here…
Well, it’s been a long time since a previous presentation work of mine but I’m not notorious for accurate build logs anyway. So I have come to prove myself again …
 
I started the model one year before accepting the challenge to build a model with open hull.
I didn't work on it regularly, so that's why the lack of many photos, not that I have in my mind to take photos in other case…
I chose to represent a vessel from my place of origin, the Island of Mytilene (Lesbos).
It was a small double ended vessel (Tserniki type) which was used for coastal trading.
It was usually rigged with a half lateen sail or a sacoleva sail (sprit sail).
......
 
I observed many photos of that vessel from the archives of 3w.naftotopos.gr and I modified an old plan of that hull type.
                                                       
 
I built the model following the method plank on bulkheads removing a number of them afterwards from the middle of the hull.
I prepared the false frames by soaking proper pieced of wood, bending them and drying them on the surface of the removed bulkheads.
......
 
I had to paint the inner of the hull before I plank the deck and keep it covered for the rest of the construction.
......
 
The grapnel anchor was made by using fishing hooks that were set and glued inside a hole in a plastic rod, while the cleats on the mast were made by modifying some fishing swivels…
 
The Shackles were made as is shown there
The Belaying pins were made as is shown there
The Sails were made as is shown there
The cargo was made by chopping some twig pencils.
 
It took me much time to decide about the colors on the model…Painting is always the only stage of my builds that stresses me. Wanting to give a local-origin character in my models, I'm always anxious whether I have chosen the right colors or I have turned it to a clown.
......
 
Finally the stand was made by a piece of plywood and some wooden rings which were cut in half.
I hope my wife won’t notice the missing curtain hoops... 
 
See the finished model in gallery.
             
Many thanks

Good evening everyone

I have an update
it took a bit longer than anticipated, but im happy with it so far
we left her in a bit of a sad state last weekend, when I realised that i had not read the plans properly, and as a result never took the superstructure in at the right place


new infills panels



and new templates for the platforms made

the hanger roof is still removeable


another primer coat to find bits thet require more work, LOL (lots of that)




   

Time for a long overdue update.
 
I didn't get a lot done on the model over the summer, but have been busy of late. All of the aftermarket Caldercraft carronades have been assembled painted and installed on their sleds. I substituted small pieces of round styrene rod for the rollers, rather than a simple square of walnut as Caldercraft suggests. I also added breech rings from brass wire. Rather than blacken they were airbrushed with an off-black color, and then brushed with powdered pencil lead to give it a subtle metal look that I think came out rather nice. Breech ropes were then rigged and carronades installed.
 
The two six-pounder chase guns (not sure of the source, they were in my  spares collection) were installed on Syren carriages  and rigged with 2mm Syren blocks. 
 
I've also completed the chainplates, which took a little effort. Caldercraft supplies the lower link and toe link as a photo-etch pieces but the middle link is open and just slips on. I had an issue with that not looking realistic, and with the angle of the chainplates they really needed to be of varying lengths, which they were not. I therefore bent some brass wire around varying sized jigs as appropriate for the angle of the chains and soldered the middle link closed. This to me looks much better. 
 
I have a Syren order inbound with hooks, so I can complete rigging of the carronades. 





 

Made a little detour and built the ship's boat. This is a (separate) Caldercraft kit that I picked up from Cornwall Model Boats. Nice little kit.
 
I modified it by making a cap rail out of some spare maple, adding thole pins when complete. I made the thwarts and stern sheets from boxwood, to replace the kit supplied walnut. The Photo-etched oars and boat hook are included and just require painting. I also added a freshwater cask, and scratch built the rudder/tiller. I also made what is likely the smallest piece I've ever done: a bailing scoop carved from boxwood, that is ridiculously tiny. You can just see it sitting on the bottom.

I got a lot of ideas from seeing the way the other builders have done the sides of the gun deck .  I try to make those rings as small as I could get them they still look a little large.  I think this will work out better than those little pins that were molded into the side of the side of the hull.

I am having a heck of a time getting the sides to stay glued to the deck. They keep popping out.

Hi Guys,
 
Thanks for the good words and the likes gents, most appreciated. 
 
It's about time I gave an update and that will be happening very soon, I must admit to have taken a short break but I am back in the game now.
 
Gary, I will PM you and let you know my thoughts.
 
rony,  When doing the planking I use "Push Pins", these have a shoulder on them which leans onto the plank and keeps them in place, to cement them, I first soak the planks for 10 - 15 minutes, wipe off any surplus water and then use a thick super glue gel, you have to be quick and accurate as the glue will set in seconds, it can also be a bit messy if you get it wrong. Hope that answers your question mate.
 
Denis, I promised you some better pictures of the deck with the lighter coloured treenails, hope these do the job mate.
                                 
OK, now for a quick update, second planking is now complete and as you will see it does look a little different, because below the waterline will be coppered I didn't want to use all my Swiss Pear and so used the kit Walnut to finish off. 
        
As you can see I haven't put the stem or keel in yet, they were the next job to be done, unfortunately no pictures.
 
Coppering has started, and finished, I used the individual plates as supplied by Caldercraft, I like these plates and they are easy to work with, my one problem was that I didn't have a plan to work to and so it was a case of trial and error, believe me when I say there were a lot errors.
                                                                                    
 
 
                                     
My next move was to lace a 2mm x 2mm strip along the top of the waterline, this was painted black prior to gluing on but that will be for the post.
 
That's it for now gents.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

A quick snapshot of where I am to date. My progress will be slow as I am still finishing my Scottish Maid, for which I have a separate build log.

Ok everyone I give in here are some pics  - the bits show the glue waiting to dry.
Oh  foregot to mention - the captains cabin facia was made up form oddments I had, then put together and painted.
 
OC.

Evening all,   After painting the back of the transom dull black, I decided to attach it to the hull - nothing much to say about that just I used some general purpose glue for it.
Here are a couple of pics.
 
OC.