Gaetan Bordeleau

Hi Andre, Everybody can follow logs they like, if you like mine, I am honored, thank you You open a new perspective to the projection of an image. I guess that it is even already possible. If a "projector' can create a 3D image in 3 plans(Even if I have a 3D projector, the problem is that that the projection is just in 2 plans) : width, height and the missing link: depth, then everything would be perfect! I could see exactly where I have to glue a part... And yes, your vision is perfectly right, one day it will assist us. Scratch building was for a long period building only with your own hands an some simple tools. Then the 'motor" arrived (water, steam, gas... electricity). Today, we all use electric tools and we are stillo doing scratch building. Actually, dazzling development of data processing open new doors for the model ship makers: 5 axes robots, 3D printing, Autocad plans... Everyday new tools arrive on the market, and we adapt our technics with new tools, and we are still doing model ship building. Tools evolve but the name remains the same: scratch building.

Hi Carl, How are they positioned? It is difficult to answer in few words, but in 2 words; it depends, of the effect you want. In fact experimentation will guide you where to install the light without too much shadows. I think that it is more important to know that you need 3 things for this kind of photos: 1- you cannot do this during the day unless you ca have darkness in the room; usually after the sun sleeps is a good time. 2- all lights in the room off, except at least 1 but it can be more. I like to use a small lamp with a goose neck; JANSJÖ from IKEA: $10 but it can be what you have at home. I like the gooseneck because I can easily position the lamp to light the subject to be photograph. 3- a camera with a manual mode. Automatic camera with integrated flash will not work because the scene being dark, the camera will want to use his flash. Today, I used 2 different cameras both at 200 ISO, maximum aperture (F as small as possible) and adjusted the time so that I can see the subject. If, by example you would like to have another area visible, you can another lamp for that area. Surprisingly, it is not very hard to get good results, just try it and you will be surprise of the results.

photos with 2 table lamps

For many years, I used exotic woods for the Color. Now I use only 1 kind of wood easily obtainable in my area. Cherry has an excellent workability. As a general rule; fruitwood are the best woods to use, thighter grains than hardwoods.

https://ancre.fr/fr/monographies/93-le-saint-philippe-1693.html How about looking at some other countries ships of that period? French rigging is not identical but some lines are surely the same. Whatever you find, when you choose to dive in that era, one of the greatest trap, that you have to accept, is that many answers: will only be your best guest.

Part 2 Searching the perfect knife When a new model ship builder begins, one of the first tool we buy is an Exacto which is the standard. Peoples get accustom to this tool and a great % prefer to work with the Exacto. Is there another step for the search of a better knife? Yes, it is possible to find a same style knife with a better handle and also with a better blade. To classify the blades, Exacto has a standard knife blade and the next step would be a razor blade. Swann Morton provides a good answer in both categories of the knife, the blade and the handle. The blade is much sharper, this means that less work and pressure are required to cut, so the advantage is that this tool can be control much more easily. This search of the knife is a multi layered adventure. Now that we get the blade, Swan Morton went another step ahead with the handle. Working hours with a small metal blade becomes painful for the hand. Handle 5A is covered with soft acrylic giving a greater comfortability to hold the tool. Is there a third step in that spiral? Is it possible to get a better handle and a better blade? Is there aspects which can be modify for a better version? The answer is yes to all these questions. These small medical blades are razor sharp. They are ideal for small works. But they have a major weakness; this tool is not made to resist in torsion and for this reason, the blade is very easy to break. The easy way to fix this problem is to add a strong spline to that blade. Of course that blade will be made in one part, we will not solder the spline to the Swan Morton blade. Now for the choice of the steel, how about a multi layered steel, as in the famous Japanese Katana saber: Damascus steel. The shape of the sharp edge will be straight , not in a curve way. Few words about the handle. I did demonstrate by building a 74 guns at 3 different scales that the bigger the piece that you hold, the more control you will have and a greater quality part will be resulting. The same principle applies here. So this means if we increase the size of the handle, this will result in much more control of the blade. With the parameters to guide us, let's find a knife with a comfortable handle in the hand with a good quality steel with razor sharp edges. The following part is not part 3 but part 1, sorry, I wrote it before. After few days of trials, I am very please with the results, the blade is as razor sharp as the scalpel blade and with more control. Finally, one last aspect. This knife is heavier than the scalpel and this additional weight is beneficial for the control of the tool. last photo: blade profile

To build a model ship has in a way, similar procedures used in the industry: one of these is: INSPECTION. The first step is done by eye but when the ye is not able anymore to discern the imperfections, we need to magnify the details to better understand where further work will be required for a better result. The easiest way to concentrate on the model ship exclusively is to take photos. A camera is ruthless, she does not forgive mistakes and shows them. Sometime it is even difficult to accept the thuth in front of us. Actually I am sanding the arch of the model ship. When I do not see any more details to ''sand'', I take few photos which will easily reveal where the corrections are needed. Fortunately, a day will come where no more modifications will be require. I can still see some spots which need to refine the curves. That will be the next step.

Hi Coq, I have difficulties to follow you: what is double raw image? Why do you have loss of data in Lightroom? Export in .jpg; you can also export: psd tiff dng and original file. Swann-Morton blades are sharp, in fact much sharper than Exacto blades and I guess that the sharper the blade the less strength needed and a cleaner job too.

Hi Carl, I guess it is like a trio: I use without problem: Mac High Sierra 10.13. 6 with Photoshop' Creative Cloud 19.1.6 with Canon .CR2 files of around 40 Mo. The camera can also be activate Dual Pixel RAW boosting the image to 60 Mo. I think that the principle it is in the same family as what they do with tv picture when they boost from Hd to 4K. On you tube there is also 8K video and more, but there is a limit to what the human eye can see. Hi Heinrich der Seefahrer, 1/24 scale is still very far from 1/1 scale, each time scale decrease details decrease too, it is like a law of the Nature. I am not sure about your question: Am I afraid to forget a part in the hold? In fact, in every 1/24 built, I lost parts; sometimes parts are effectively unreachable or sometimes I drop a part and I do not see where it falls. Hi Bill, I guess you will like the framework for still a long time, because minimal planking will be fit, as it is now. Planking installed at the top of the frames looks like sufficient to hold the thousand parts together. The idea is to get some kind of open structure.

Hi Carl, The program we chose is a bit like choosing a color, it is a personal preference. Basically, these programs do all the same thing. When you take photos, it is interesting to be able to bring some corrections to the photos.

May be some peoples could be interested to see some programs for photos treatment:

Michael, very nice; the model and the working room!

5 posts pass through the taffrail. The angle for the piercing is determined by tracing the angle on a block set on the vice as seen on the second photo.

For the lighting, technology is on our side. LED lights are performing at the top. As an example, at a garage sale, I bought a nice draftman lamp for $5. For the bulb, I paid around $30, some kinds of LED in a bulb. At $35, this lamp is performing much more than almost every other lamps I tried.

My last Experience: Focus Stacking When focus is done on an object, the focus is done at an exact distance. This depth of field is very limited especially with large opening like F4 by example. There is a way to increase that depth of field: in manual focus, take a photo, readjust focus 1 clic or 2 forward, take a photo and 4-5 times like this. In photoshop, you open these photos a pile and merge them in one photo. In the example, the result will show a greater depth of field than F22 could give.

I looked others and actually it is the opposite for the metal ones... It is easier to mill a straight angle than a curved one. With the parallel clamps that I broke, it was never at the tip but on the side walls where the screw is passing. In wood, probably that the first one is stronger. I would begin by trying a stronger angle and if a thinner angle is needed, I would sand the tip as needed. The difference for both in strength is not so big, so at the end it can also be simply a preference visually.

Hi Mike, I guess yo could say that the standard shape looks like the second one. I have metal ones exactly the same, I think it was from Lee Valley. Also I have boxwood ones similar and I broke 1 in 20 years.

Possibly a good reading about copyright in UK for the photos: https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/copyright-notice-digital-images-photographs-and-the-internet

Few years ago when I decided to try cherry wood instead of pearwood, it was not clear if this wood was suitable for the task. In Europe, pear wood is a common tree, in Canada, pear wood is very expensive, but cherry wood is very much affordable. Workability of pear and cherry woods are very similar. For planking, pear wood is often use but it has no grain pattern. At the opposite, cherry wood has many grain patterns but not all of them are suited for the task, especially when the grain runs perpendicular to the length of the plank. If we understand this simple rule : ‘’The grain pattern must runs parallel to the length of the plank’’, then I believe that cherry wood can be a good choice for the model ship builders.

MINERVA CONFRONTING SATURN 1785, in a French Arsenal, a navy board ship of 74 guns is just completed at the scale of 1/24. It will be use as a model for the naval instruction for the officers. The model was installed in a room the room with few paintings hanging on the walls. One of the painting is the allegory of Saturn, Conquered by Amor, Venus and Hope, painted by Simon Vouet 140 years earlier. Of course nothing of that is true, but if I could build a model for Naval Instruction, I probably could do some paintings too, and give a new title to that painting : Minerva confronting Saturn.

As I explained you yesterday in a private message, your best choice would be a lamp instead (more power for less money). To my knowledge, the best performing lamps actually are in this category: Studio lighting/ continuous lighting/ LED lights that you can find in Photo stores like BH photo: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?setNs=p_PRICE_2|0&Ns=p_PRICE_2|0&ci=12248&fct=fct_color-temperature-type_4243|daylight-balanced&srtclk=sort&N=3988592074& With only one of these light, you will be surprise of the power and you will not have to mix 2 or 3 kinds of lights. And as a bonus, you will get better photos, white balance included.

John, remember the smallest carving of the figurehead at 1/192... it was carved with: Foredom engine/ flex-shaft/ dental handpiece. Yes, you are absolutely right; practice is the key!