xken

Fantastic job, Ken, and what a great subject.
I was lucky enough to see this beast run.  Tommy sold it to a guy (name long forgotten) who put a Buick station wagon body on and VIOLA! - instant funny car.  It was a crowd pleaser.  I have some 8mm film of it somewhere, now that you have reminded me.
Again, good job.
👍

What a great build, Ken.  I remember seeing that beast a couple times back in the day at local drag strips.   Not something I would want to drive but still... a showstopper.   I also saw his twin engine rail a few times. 

The deck has been painted with clear urethane and set aside for later use. Now I have started the planking of the hull. For me this is a similar process I have done before with airplane fuselages and wings and attention to detail and understanding what is happening to each piece will result in tight fits and thus minimal use of filler. Unfortunately, the thicknesses of the wood strips does vary that will require additional filler at certain places rather than excess sanding resulting in flat spots.
 
Before starting I made a hull holder that clamps into my panavise and adjustable. I used the scrap 1/4" wood from the laser cut sheet. Not fancy but very effective and saved some money.
Here is an overall view for the benefit of others that may build this ship in the future and save money.

 
I used the mast holes with the parts being cut to a loose press fit. I salvaged the machine screws and wing nuts from the fair a frame unit. Here is a close up of the fit to the mast holes.

 
Here are a couple of pictures of the hull planking at the center section. I followed the instructions and used the lengths recommended and they are working very well. For the tapering I am using my mini wood plane and the widths on the plans for the bow and stern and adjusting as needed. I am into the second belt at this point.

 
Here is a close up, my goal is the minimal use of filler. However there are varying thicknesses within the wood strips that you may see in the pictures.

 
Back to planking.
 
Ken

After fitting and a little fussing the second strake was glued to deck edge with the black glue and 1/4" masking tape to hold in place.

 
Here the deck with sanded starkes is final fitted with a slight press fit.

 
Here is the deck stained with Golden Oak and now drying before being clear coated.

 
Now to sort out the hull planking.
 
Ken 

George, it worked very well for my first attempt and I have learned a few things for the next time I do this.
Here is the rough sanded deck plank sheet. A few of the butt cuts I did not cut quite deep enough or I did not plunge the blade evenly as seen in the red circle. These were easily fixed with another carefully placed blade cut and a dab of black glue filler.

 
Here is the full 24" long sheet ready to cut to shape using the pattern, both the perimeter and mast holes.

 
Located the pattern on the sheet and made sure it was square to the sheet before tracing the perimeter and hole locations. I used a steel block to weigh it down to avoid shifting. This is one of those where you need a third arm.

 
This shows the sheet cut and fit to the ship's deck area. Keep in mind that the next step will be to locate the two strakes down each side and cut the deck sheet to receive them. And then glue them in place as well.

 
Here is a close up showing the nice fit I got using the pattern and then some careful trimming and sanding. Even a blind pig gets lucky now and then. I just hope I do not screw it up adding the strakes.

 
Now to see what it looks like when it is eventually stained.
Ken
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Proceeded with the gluing of the deck planks with black glue, which was slow going to assure each piece adhered correctly. I was able to complete one half before calling it a night last evening.
 
The planks were premarked and cross cut with an Xacto blade just about half way through each location before gluing in place. I marked planks at 4 inches with a one inch stagger to the next that allowed for three boards between butt joints. I found it easier to work with four planks at a time to cross cut, glue in place, glue fill the cross cut and wipe off the excess with a wet paper towel followed immediately with a dry one to absorb any excess water. I then weighted down and moved to the next course. 

 
Here is a close up showing a course ready to glue.

 
I am finished and the deck now just needs to dry completely before sanding. Hopefully this experiment should work.
 
Ken

Made a test with the black glue experiment using white glue and Lamp Black; my first attempt I added too much Lamp Black which resulted in a weak glue joint. I added more white glue to the mix and then had a strong joint also a more of a darker gray than a true black. Lamp Black can be purchased at any paint store that mixes paint, I bought 1 ounce for less than a dollar.
 
After the glue set I sanded then piece down to get a nice clean joint. I then stained with Colonial Oak which looks similar to the deck of the real brig pictures. The stain I have is oil based so must be stained after gluing. Staining first would result in poor adhesion of the glue unless a water based stain is used.

 
I water soaked two long strips in the plastic bag that wood strips are shipped in over night and edge formed them and clamped one at a time to the 1/32" pattern. The clamped half overhung the edge of a desk while weighted to keep the pattern flat and I used a ruler to check the flatness of the pattern. When one was dried on the pattern it was removed and the second clamped and dried. The longer the parts are left dried (ideally overnight) the better the results with less spring back.

Here is a closeup showing the flatness of the pattern which is critical.

This shows the pattern with the formed strips with the deck planking awaiting the black glue.

Now to sort out the butt pattern for the deck planks; right now I am considering a length of 4 inches for the individual planks and then bleeding off with random lengths at the stern and bow.
 
Ken

Finally finished up the gun stripes. The bows sections required carving away stock from the framework to allow for the thickness of the carrier plywood. I am also very satisfied with the color as compared to photographs available. While waiting for paint and glue to set I also finished up the lower transom down to the keel.


 
I then fabricated a deck pattern using the model structure rather than the plans with various pieces of spare stock. 1/16" square was used on the sides for ease of bending and being cross braced to maintain shape. The real challenge here was to not glue the pattern to the structure.

 
Once the pattern glue was set; reinforcement braces were added to assure correctness of pattern. I then cut a 1/32" sheet using the pattern.

 
The 1/32" pattern required a little perimeter fussing to sand to a press fit. I still have to add the slots for the two masts. This is what I will use as a pattern to now build the deck which I think will be much easier to build outside the hull than inside. I will also have the benefit of being able to access the inside when adding the hull planking. This may not be a traditional approach, but I will find out soon enough.
I am also thinking of using black glue on the decking to emphasis the grouting and stain the decking with colonial oak. I will do a test section first to see what it looks like.

 
Ken
 

I have settled on a color for the gun stripe and am moving forward on the planking. Here is the color and the start of the planking on the starboard side starting at the stern and moving forward. These planks are just set in place and will need some fine tuning on the edges before the final gluing in place.

 
Ken

Tim,
Please by all means borrow it; knowledge and experience not shared is a true waste. 
 
Roughed in the transom wall and here are a few in progress and painted; keep in mind more parts are to be added like the chafing blocks at the bottom of the gunports.

 
Planks added.

 
Painted and test fit.

 
In place and showing the fashion frame.

 
Then I added the two 3/64" thick planks that define the lower edge of the gun stripe from bow to stern.

 
Next I will start on the gun stripe planking.
 
Ken
 

The hull was primed for paint and then masked off first to paint the black plank at the top that the main rail will rest on. Once the black was dry I then masked off the black using 1/4" masking tape as seen below then added blue tape below the gunports for additional protection from painting and over spray.
 
 
This next picture shows the overall painted red most of which will be covered with planking so no need to mask off. 

 
Here is a close up showing a gunport butt strips with the transition to the black at the top. A painting trick I learned in the Marines when having to deal with two colors with masking tape was to first spray a light coat of clear; if the tape edge did not seal the bleed under would be clear. This would minimize the risk of color bled under the tape when spraying the next color on top.
 

 
Now to do a little cleanup and add the interior planking which will help in stiffing the bulkhead structure.
 
Ken

Here are the layered laser cut parts to form the cutters. I followed the instructions and glued the layers by aligning the end tabs which later turned out to be a mistake. A couple of tips for those who may build this kit; before removing the parts from the carrier sheet draw an line across the top on each part so you will know which side of the part is up. Laser cutting causes a slight angle on the edges of the parts and the thicker the stock the greater the angle; this will help when gluing together and reduce filling issues. It turns out the left to right profiles are not exactly symmetrical so the line will help in stacking, when gluing together rather than gang the parts in one stack glue them one at a time centering the profiles on each other respecting the front to rear alignment. 
I also left the bottom of for easier handling and once close to the bottom of sanding away the interior then add the bottom. 

 
This shows the profile differences.

 
Here is the outsides rough sanded prior to priming. Also the yawl is in the background for size reference.

 
Here are various stages of filling the undercut that result from the misalignment of the tabs. I like to use an automotive glazing spot putty due to it's ease of working with and quick drying and sanding.
The best applicator based on size of the cutter and being on the inside turned out to be my index finger. Lacquer thinner easily removes it.

 
Now I started the planking again using the Midwest #8003 strips. Soaked in water and easily but carefully edge formed for the desired curve as seen in the picture. The first several are tack glued on center of each overlap and the ends placed against the keel for trimming and then fully glued in place; once halfway up I then started at the rudder end and carefully overlapped and glued.

 
Here is the end result of the first cutter's planking; now onto the next one and the final finish filling and sanding of the interior now that it is much stiffer with the planking.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Kits that I have designed to date are: Mountain Buckboard; Allerton Steam Pumper; Ladder Wagon; Hearse; Armed Longboat; USS Constitution Cross Section; Jail Wagon; Fokker EIV; Oberusel 14 Cylinder Rotary Engine; Wolsey Eight Cylinder “Viper” Engine; SE5a British Fighter; Beer Wagon; Horse Harness (pulling); Horse Hitches for Wagons- 1 Horse; 2 Horse; 4 Horse. They said that they have plenty more in the lineup; I will be 76 next month so who knows how many more. The BeerWagon and some others are at the Nuremberg International Toy Fair, Germany.   
Life is good.....I get paid to do my hobby what more can one ask for.
Amongst all of this I did these personal projects: the Niagara; USS Constitution; Maersk Detroit (WIP); Dirty Dozen; and 1961 Showboat a pet project. A couple of stained glass windows for local church.
Here are just a sampling of them.
 

This was a tribute build of Tommy Ivo’s exhibition dragster powered by four Buick Nailhead engines. The left two engines drove the front wheels and the right side the rear wheels. They were geared so that only the front would smoke during the run. I was able to purchase four CD’s of pictures of the replica build from the original builder Bruce Dadra. The reference material was awesome in details. The engines were purchased cast resin and completely enhanced, exhaust pipes were bent brass. The body was .010” bass sheet formed and butt joints to maintain thickness. Tires we’re modified cast resin with aluminum wheels custom made by Dancing Bear Components. The decals I designed and we’re reproduced in Australia by a supplier that could do the gold leaf background. The parachute is carved wood with removable access panel to get at mounting screws. I did all my own chroming using Caswell’s products. The front wheels turn. The upholstered seat was done using Sculpty baked in oven. The seat belts are leather and work. I also added the Hot Rod magazine cover from 1961. Tommy did send me a wonderful email telling me how great the details were.
 

This was a tribute build of Tommy Ivo’s exhibition dragster powered by four Buick Nailhead engines. The left two engines drove the front wheels and the right side the rear wheels. They were geared so that only the front would smoke during the run. I was able to purchase four CD’s of pictures of the replica build from the original builder Bruce Dadra. The reference material was awesome in details. The engines were purchased cast resin and completely enhanced, exhaust pipes were bent brass. The body was .010” bass sheet formed and butt joints to maintain thickness. Tires we’re modified cast resin with aluminum wheels custom made by Dancing Bear Components. The decals I designed and we’re reproduced in Australia by a supplier that could do the gold leaf background. The parachute is carved wood with removable access panel to get at mounting screws. I did all my own chroming using Caswell’s products. The front wheels turn. The upholstered seat was done using Sculpty baked in oven. The seat belts are leather and work. I also added the Hot Rod magazine cover from 1961. Tommy did send me a wonderful email telling me how great the details were.
 

This was a tribute build of Tommy Ivo’s exhibition dragster powered by four Buick Nailhead engines. The left two engines drove the front wheels and the right side the rear wheels. They were geared so that only the front would smoke during the run. I was able to purchase four CD’s of pictures of the replica build from the original builder Bruce Dadra. The reference material was awesome in details. The engines were purchased cast resin and completely enhanced, exhaust pipes were bent brass. The body was .010” bass sheet formed and butt joints to maintain thickness. Tires we’re modified cast resin with aluminum wheels custom made by Dancing Bear Components. The decals I designed and we’re reproduced in Australia by a supplier that could do the gold leaf background. The parachute is carved wood with removable access panel to get at mounting screws. I did all my own chroming using Caswell’s products. The front wheels turn. The upholstered seat was done using Sculpty baked in oven. The seat belts are leather and work. I also added the Hot Rod magazine cover from 1961. Tommy did send me a wonderful email telling me how great the details were.
 

This was a tribute build of Tommy Ivo’s exhibition dragster powered by four Buick Nailhead engines. The left two engines drove the front wheels and the right side the rear wheels. They were geared so that only the front would smoke during the run. I was able to purchase four CD’s of pictures of the replica build from the original builder Bruce Dadra. The reference material was awesome in details. The engines were purchased cast resin and completely enhanced, exhaust pipes were bent brass. The body was .010” bass sheet formed and butt joints to maintain thickness. Tires we’re modified cast resin with aluminum wheels custom made by Dancing Bear Components. The decals I designed and we’re reproduced in Australia by a supplier that could do the gold leaf background. The parachute is carved wood with removable access panel to get at mounting screws. I did all my own chroming using Caswell’s products. The front wheels turn. The upholstered seat was done using Sculpty baked in oven. The seat belts are leather and work. I also added the Hot Rod magazine cover from 1961. Tommy did send me a wonderful email telling me how great the details were.
 

This was a tribute build of Tommy Ivo’s exhibition dragster powered by four Buick Nailhead engines. The left two engines drove the front wheels and the right side the rear wheels. They were geared so that only the front would smoke during the run. I was able to purchase four CD’s of pictures of the replica build from the original builder Bruce Dadra. The reference material was awesome in details. The engines were purchased cast resin and completely enhanced, exhaust pipes were bent brass. The body was .010” bass sheet formed and butt joints to maintain thickness. Tires we’re modified cast resin with aluminum wheels custom made by Dancing Bear Components. The decals I designed and we’re reproduced in Australia by a supplier that could do the gold leaf background. The parachute is carved wood with removable access panel to get at mounting screws. I did all my own chroming using Caswell’s products. The front wheels turn. The upholstered seat was done using Sculpty baked in oven. The seat belts are leather and work. I also added the Hot Rod magazine cover from 1961. Tommy did send me a wonderful email telling me how great the details were.
 

This was a tribute build of Tommy Ivo’s exhibition dragster powered by four Buick Nailhead engines. The left two engines drove the front wheels and the right side the rear wheels. They were geared so that only the front would smoke during the run. I was able to purchase four CD’s of pictures of the replica build from the original builder Bruce Dadra. The reference material was awesome in details. The engines were purchased cast resin and completely enhanced, exhaust pipes were bent brass. The body was .010” bass sheet formed and butt joints to maintain thickness. Tires we’re modified cast resin with aluminum wheels custom made by Dancing Bear Components. The decals I designed and we’re reproduced in Australia by a supplier that could do the gold leaf background. The parachute is carved wood with removable access panel to get at mounting screws. I did all my own chroming using Caswell’s products. The front wheels turn. The upholstered seat was done using Sculpty baked in oven. The seat belts are leather and work. I also added the Hot Rod magazine cover from 1961. Tommy did send me a wonderful email telling me how great the details were.
 

This was a tribute build of Tommy Ivo’s exhibition dragster powered by four Buick Nailhead engines. The left two engines drove the front wheels and the right side the rear wheels. They were geared so that only the front would smoke during the run. I was able to purchase four CD’s of pictures of the replica build from the original builder Bruce Dadra. The reference material was awesome in details. The engines were purchased cast resin and completely enhanced, exhaust pipes were bent brass. The body was .010” bass sheet formed and butt joints to maintain thickness. Tires we’re modified cast resin with aluminum wheels custom made by Dancing Bear Components. The decals I designed and we’re reproduced in Australia by a supplier that could do the gold leaf background. The parachute is carved wood with removable access panel to get at mounting screws. I did all my own chroming using Caswell’s products. The front wheels turn. The upholstered seat was done using Sculpty baked in oven. The seat belts are leather and work. I also added the Hot Rod magazine cover from 1961. Tommy did send me a wonderful email telling me how great the details were.
 

This was a tribute build of Tommy Ivo’s exhibition dragster powered by four Buick Nailhead engines. The left two engines drove the front wheels and the right side the rear wheels. They were geared so that only the front would smoke during the run. I was able to purchase four CD’s of pictures of the replica build from the original builder Bruce Dadra. The reference material was awesome in details. The engines were purchased cast resin and completely enhanced, exhaust pipes were bent brass. The body was .010” bass sheet formed and butt joints to maintain thickness. Tires we’re modified cast resin with aluminum wheels custom made by Dancing Bear Components. The decals I designed and we’re reproduced in Australia by a supplier that could do the gold leaf background. The parachute is carved wood with removable access panel to get at mounting screws. I did all my own chroming using Caswell’s products. The front wheels turn. The upholstered seat was done using Sculpty baked in oven. The seat belts are leather and work. I also added the Hot Rod magazine cover from 1961. Tommy did send me a wonderful email telling me how great the details were.
 

This was a tribute build of Tommy Ivo’s exhibition dragster powered by four Buick Nailhead engines. The left two engines drove the front wheels and the right side the rear wheels. They were geared so that only the front would smoke during the run. I was able to purchase four CD’s of pictures of the replica build from the original builder Bruce Dadra. The reference material was awesome in details. The engines were purchased cast resin and completely enhanced, exhaust pipes were bent brass. The body was .010” bass sheet formed and butt joints to maintain thickness. Tires we’re modified cast resin with aluminum wheels custom made by Dancing Bear Components. The decals I designed and we’re reproduced in Australia by a supplier that could do the gold leaf background. The parachute is carved wood with removable access panel to get at mounting screws. I did all my own chroming using Caswell’s products. The front wheels turn. The upholstered seat was done using Sculpty baked in oven. The seat belts are leather and work. I also added the Hot Rod magazine cover from 1961. Tommy did send me a wonderful email telling me how great the details were.
 

This was a tribute build of Tommy Ivo’s exhibition dragster powered by four Buick Nailhead engines. The left two engines drove the front wheels and the right side the rear wheels. They were geared so that only the front would smoke during the run. I was able to purchase four CD’s of pictures of the replica build from the original builder Bruce Dadra. The reference material was awesome in details. The engines were purchased cast resin and completely enhanced, exhaust pipes were bent brass. The body was .010” bass sheet formed and butt joints to maintain thickness. Tires we’re modified cast resin with aluminum wheels custom made by Dancing Bear Components. The decals I designed and we’re reproduced in Australia by a supplier that could do the gold leaf background. The parachute is carved wood with removable access panel to get at mounting screws. I did all my own chroming using Caswell’s products. The front wheels turn. The upholstered seat was done using Sculpty baked in oven. The seat belts are leather and work. I also added the Hot Rod magazine cover from 1961. Tommy did send me a wonderful email telling me how great the details were.
 

This was a tribute build of Tommy Ivo’s exhibition dragster powered by four Buick Nailhead engines. The left two engines drove the front wheels and the right side the rear wheels. They were geared so that only the front would smoke during the run. I was able to purchase four CD’s of pictures of the replica build from the original builder Bruce Dadra. The reference material was awesome in details. The engines were purchased cast resin and completely enhanced, exhaust pipes were bent brass. The body was .010” bass sheet formed and butt joints to maintain thickness. Tires we’re modified cast resin with aluminum wheels custom made by Dancing Bear Components. The decals I designed and we’re reproduced in Australia by a supplier that could do the gold leaf background. The parachute is carved wood with removable access panel to get at mounting screws. I did all my own chroming using Caswell’s products. The front wheels turn. The upholstered seat was done using Sculpty baked in oven. The seat belts are leather and work. I also added the Hot Rod magazine cover from 1961. Tommy did send me a wonderful email telling me how great the details were.
 

This was a tribute build of Tommy Ivo’s exhibition dragster powered by four Buick Nailhead engines. The left two engines drove the front wheels and the right side the rear wheels. They were geared so that only the front would smoke during the run. I was able to purchase four CD’s of pictures of the replica build from the original builder Bruce Dadra. The reference material was awesome in details. The engines were purchased cast resin and completely enhanced, exhaust pipes were bent brass. The body was .010” bass sheet formed and butt joints to maintain thickness. Tires we’re modified cast resin with aluminum wheels custom made by Dancing Bear Components. The decals I designed and we’re reproduced in Australia by a supplier that could do the gold leaf background. The parachute is carved wood with removable access panel to get at mounting screws. I did all my own chroming using Caswell’s products. The front wheels turn. The upholstered seat was done using Sculpty baked in oven. The seat belts are leather and work. I also added the Hot Rod magazine cover from 1961. Tommy did send me a wonderful email telling me how great the details were.