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Jason Builder

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Posts posted by Jason Builder

  1. Hello Model Ship Building Fellows,

     

    Here are photos of my model as I used a razor knife to remove width from the bow and stern frame/keel, as others have done, to prevent the stem and stern edges from being TOO WIDE as they would be if following the kit.  This was a bit of work, but not too much,

     

     

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  2. Dobry wieczor, przyaciele,

     

    Carved out some time (ha ha pardon the pun) to carve the tiller tonight.  I have set myself the goal of finishing this model this year, and I even have a place for it, so between now and December I must finish it.  Had fun making and fitting the tiller tonight while listening to Rachmaninoff 2.

     

    The tilller-to-rudder connection is a through pinned mortise/tenon.

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  3. Goedendag,

     

    After a bunch of custom fitting of many planks, I set to work on some somewhat mindless repetitive work on the 30 oars of the Oseberg.  I used the dowels and blades from the kit.   Cut the shafts to length, cut out the blades, tapered the shaft ends to fit the blades, glued on the blades.   Used a razor to taper the edges of the blades.  Sanded everything smooth.   From what I could find, the hand-handle ends of the oar shafts were simple tapered down to allow a hand to hold fast to the oar, so this is how I made mine.

     

    Have a cheery day!

     

    -Jason

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  4. Hi Louie,

     

    I’m not an expert in these ships so I am not a good resource to answer the question , but I have looked at what pictures and drawings are available of such Viking ships.  Check out this photo of the Oseberg which to me appears to show a curved thwart at the mast partners and the thwart appears to have a rabbet cut into it to accept deck planks.  So I did something similar in my model.  It would make sense to have a thwart at this location that supported the mast higher up than the deck to add additional sideways strength to the mast partners.   I saw the Oseberg in my youth and if I lived nearby I would be there often looking at the ship for reference!   Maybe others on this site can add more?   Thanks

     

    Jason

     

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  5. God kväll,

     

    This evening I have worked on the mast step and partners.  I built the kit version from plywood and used it as a template to make a solid basswood version.  I also built a solid one piece vertical mast step/support belowdecks.  Here are the steps I took this evening, and also the handcarved current status of the parts.  I will sand these prior to finishing.  I also include a photo of the Oseberg mast support itself.

     

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  6. Hello Again!....two updates in one day:

     

    I bought a bunch of 1/16" solid basswood sheets to finish the bulkheads with, and to make the planks from.   I am now adding a 1/6" strip to the tops of the bulkheads.  As I go I am also carving down the bulkheads so that they taper to a point at their tops.  The photo below shows the strips that will be the exposed tops of the bulkheads, and also what the carved tops of the bulkheads look like vs the uncarved ones.

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  7. Greetings from Wisconsin!

     

    I have completed installation of the plank support strips on either side of all the bulkheads.   I have more bulkheads that the standard kit, so I ran out of the little strip material and used small basswood strips after the kit material ran out.

     

    • Next, I will build up the tops of the bulkheads with wooden strips so that the tops of the bulkheads are flush with the tops of the planks; see photos below.  This is a deviation from the kit, but is more accurate vs the original.  The Oseberg ship has small planks that run from bulkhead to bulkhead and which are staggered in lengthwise alignment with the planks between the next bulkhead....ie the mini planks are not all in one big aligned row down the deck of the ship.   

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    Deck of the Oseberg can be seen below.  Also, I note the shape of the bulkheads above the deck, I will carve mine to be more similar to this.

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    And here, a replica viking ship showing the staggered small planks, the top of which are flush with the tops of the bulkhead:

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    • Also, sidenote, from looking at sketches and photo's it seems the Oseberg was not built with solid bulkheads but with thwarts that would run from starboard to port that supported the deck.   I think this would have been lighter and allowed for more storage space and storage of longer objects.   Various viking ship cross sections can be seen below. I still need to build the arched "bulkhead/thwart" that partners.  

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    photo of Oseberg Bulkhead assembly:

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  8. Thank you for the encouraging words Killckthere and John!

     

    With planking done, I have cut out and fit the little stub bulkheads and glued them in place in the incorrectly large spaces between bulkheads in the kit.  See photos below.  I also cut solid filler pieces for the mast-step and glued those in place.    I started building the mast partners; I will build the kit plywood version of the partners, and use it as a pattern to build a solid wood piece.

     

    Cutting bulkhead stub pieces:

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    Glueing mini-bulkheads in place

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    Here she is with all the little stub-bulkheads glued in place.   Now after planking, it will look like the ship has correct bulkhead spacing throughout.  The kit does not come with these extra little bulkhead stubs.

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    Here is the mast partners, which I am building up from kit pieces, and next I will fashion a solid basswood one:

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    Cheers!

     

     

  9. Hello!

     

    Update from today:

     

    Here is the 1.8mmx3mm filler piece glued in place:

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    And here it is, pictured from the inside of the hull:

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    Once glued in place, I carved/shaped the filler piece to fit the bulkheads, adjacent pieces, and overall hull shape:V39.jpg.87fcaffbb1feac2f0d47cef876c01ed5.jpg

     

    1st shear plank glued in place:

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    After gluing the first side plank row in place, I noticed a gap in the cutout of some of the bulk heads; I filled this with wooden filler pieces:

     

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    And after filling with filler pieces made of basswood:

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    Final Top side plank being glued in place:

     

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    Next I will trim off the excess/tops of the bulkheads.   All going well so far.

     

    Jason

     

     

     

  10. Gosh I do like the weekend!

     

    Nice cold morning here in Wisconsin.  Bottom of the hull is planked.  Now I will go back over the planks and glue and clamp the few areas were there was not glue between the planks, this will be a quick easy job just to make sure the planks are tight together along their whole lengths.  Then I will attach the remaining planks to the sides of the hull.

     

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  11. Happy Monday Everyone!

     

    Haven't posted in a while, but I am still alive and kickin and making progress as limited time allows.  Planking continues and now that I am 4 planks away from completing the lower planking section, I marked out the locations of the last 4 planks to ensure good spacing.  I have been overlapping the planks by about 3/32" so far.

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  12. Hello Everyone,

     

    I am planking away, slowly.  Planking this model is not difficult or time consuming, as the laser cuts planks fit very well, but I have had very limited time, so when I get a chance to plank, I plank one complete row of planking on both sides on the same night.  This is to attempt to prevent warping of the framework while planking.  So tonight, for example I glued on the third row of planking on both sides.  Very fun model. 

     

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  13. Bonsoir Mes Amis,

     

    Not much work on the 'ole ship lately but here's an update!  This continues to be a very enjoyable project.

     

    Before planking I marked plank locations (measured from the print and marked on both sides of the keel stem & stern) on the keel and also chamfered the bulkheads.  I also feathered in the transition from the plank-feel doublers to the curved plywood ones:

     

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    Then I used a hopefully-just-right-sized, and properly located, drops of gel CA glue to glue down the planks.  I will stain the hull planks and any glue on the outside of the planks will screw up the finish.  The first planks did not have any ooze-out of glue, which is good.  The plank end-to-end butt joints will be symmetrical looking at the hull from the bottom.  

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    The plank-joints wind up in open air, not on a bulk head, so I am gluing on a backer-plank behind each butt-joint:

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    Bon Soiree!

     

    Jason

     

  14. Wonderful model Ed!  I hope mine turns out as well as all these build logs and photos I'm seeing.  It is indeed a fun model to build so far, and I even like the way the frame looks at this point in the build.   Now I need to chamfer the bulkheads.   I did get a bit more work done this evening; I built the frame that supports the inverted hull for planking.

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