Roger Pellett

These double or raised Pilot house were seen on many Great Lakes vessels too.  The original arrangement was an open bridge atop a closed pilot house.  The watch stander stood on the open bridge and relayed orders via speaking tube to the wheelsman below.  Later the open bridge was enclosed resulting in a second pilot house.
 
Photo original arrangement below:
 
Roger
 
 

The first question that you need to answer is how you plan to build it. Lumber choices then follow.
 
The currently popular method Is POB.  This consists of erecting many bulkheads on a wooden spine and planking hull with wood strips.  You will almost surly need to apply copious amounts of sort of harden-able putty to help you fair the result.  As GrandpaPhil suggests this sort of model can be sheathed with fiberglass.  Wood for this type of construction:  Central spine, bulkheads quality plywood, 3/8” thick.  Basswood or pine strip wood planking.
 
The other option, less popular today is a carved wood hull.  This system was used to build the large experimental models for tank towing to determine hull resistance and the magnificent large scale models of US Navy warships built by Gibbs & Cox during World War II.  Their 1:48 scale USS Iowa on display at the Smithsonian is an example of model making at the highest level.  You of course carve this type of hull from a solid log!  Instead you laminate layers of wood band sawed to shapes derived from the waterlines found on the vessel’s lines drawing.  Personally, I love carving ship model hulls.  If I were doing this, I would use quality 1in nominal or perhaps 5 quarter lumberyard pine.
 
Roger

I would place money on the compounds that polymerize - the vinyl and acrylic components - have one chemical company as their origin.  It is probably a toxic and hazardous process not cost effective to replicate in multiple locations.  The gemisch that is the commercial product  probably has a few more manufacturers but not as many as there are products.   Some are just rebranded.  If two companies have products in the same shaped dispenser, they probably come off of the same line. A line that forks just before the labeling machines.
 
PVA when polymerized looks like intertwined fungal hyphae.  The thinner the zone of just vinyl chains between two meeting surfaces, the stronger the bond.   Clamping pressure = bond strength.  The limiting factor is the amount of pressure the wood fibers can resist before they crush.
 
If a POB build has molds that are plywood,  it would probably be prudent to prime the areas that are end grain with pushed in and surface wiped PVA.  Let it cure and then bond the planking.

Building ship models can involve solving such a wide rage of problems that it really depends on what you’re trying to do.  
 
For gluing wood to wood commonly available PVA glue; the yellow stuff.  Elmer’s, Titebond, both work fine. Possibly other brands too.  IMHO, it’s all the same stuff.  Requires clamping pressure.
 
Special gluing problems like lightly loaded or interlocking metal to wood joints: Nitrocellulose based glue. Nitrocellulose based clear fingernail polish works great.  It also works for wood-wood joints where clamping pressure cannot be applied.  Duco is its the same stuff, just thicker.
 
For larger wood metal joints, Epoxy.  I especially like JB Weld, it’s easy to squeeze out a couple of blobs and mix.  Eyeball can judge 1:1 proportions.
 
CA Glues:  Don’t use!!
 
Roger
 

Building ship models can involve solving such a wide rage of problems that it really depends on what you’re trying to do.  
 
For gluing wood to wood commonly available PVA glue; the yellow stuff.  Elmer’s, Titebond, both work fine. Possibly other brands too.  IMHO, it’s all the same stuff.  Requires clamping pressure.
 
Special gluing problems like lightly loaded or interlocking metal to wood joints: Nitrocellulose based glue. Nitrocellulose based clear fingernail polish works great.  It also works for wood-wood joints where clamping pressure cannot be applied.  Duco is its the same stuff, just thicker.
 
For larger wood metal joints, Epoxy.  I especially like JB Weld, it’s easy to squeeze out a couple of blobs and mix.  Eyeball can judge 1:1 proportions.
 
CA Glues:  Don’t use!!
 
Roger
 

Building ship models can involve solving such a wide rage of problems that it really depends on what you’re trying to do.  
 
For gluing wood to wood commonly available PVA glue; the yellow stuff.  Elmer’s, Titebond, both work fine. Possibly other brands too.  IMHO, it’s all the same stuff.  Requires clamping pressure.
 
Special gluing problems like lightly loaded or interlocking metal to wood joints: Nitrocellulose based glue. Nitrocellulose based clear fingernail polish works great.  It also works for wood-wood joints where clamping pressure cannot be applied.  Duco is its the same stuff, just thicker.
 
For larger wood metal joints, Epoxy.  I especially like JB Weld, it’s easy to squeeze out a couple of blobs and mix.  Eyeball can judge 1:1 proportions.
 
CA Glues:  Don’t use!!
 
Roger
 

These double or raised Pilot house were seen on many Great Lakes vessels too.  The original arrangement was an open bridge atop a closed pilot house.  The watch stander stood on the open bridge and relayed orders via speaking tube to the wheelsman below.  Later the open bridge was enclosed resulting in a second pilot house.
 
Photo original arrangement below:
 
Roger
 
 

These double or raised Pilot house were seen on many Great Lakes vessels too.  The original arrangement was an open bridge atop a closed pilot house.  The watch stander stood on the open bridge and relayed orders via speaking tube to the wheelsman below.  Later the open bridge was enclosed resulting in a second pilot house.
 
Photo original arrangement below:
 
Roger
 
 

In the NROTC program Naval History was a 1 semester course, I believe sophomore year.  Like OCS, Victory at Sea was part of the curriculum.  Some guy, a fellow Midshipman was allowed to bring his stereo to class so we got full benefit of the music.
 
Roger

In the NROTC program Naval History was a 1 semester course, I believe sophomore year.  Like OCS, Victory at Sea was part of the curriculum.  Some guy, a fellow Midshipman was allowed to bring his stereo to class so we got full benefit of the music.
 
Roger

In the NROTC program Naval History was a 1 semester course, I believe sophomore year.  Like OCS, Victory at Sea was part of the curriculum.  Some guy, a fellow Midshipman was allowed to bring his stereo to class so we got full benefit of the music.
 
Roger

In the NROTC program Naval History was a 1 semester course, I believe sophomore year.  Like OCS, Victory at Sea was part of the curriculum.  Some guy, a fellow Midshipman was allowed to bring his stereo to class so we got full benefit of the music.
 
Roger

These double or raised Pilot house were seen on many Great Lakes vessels too.  The original arrangement was an open bridge atop a closed pilot house.  The watch stander stood on the open bridge and relayed orders via speaking tube to the wheelsman below.  Later the open bridge was enclosed resulting in a second pilot house.
 
Photo original arrangement below:
 
Roger
 
 

In the NROTC program Naval History was a 1 semester course, I believe sophomore year.  Like OCS, Victory at Sea was part of the curriculum.  Some guy, a fellow Midshipman was allowed to bring his stereo to class so we got full benefit of the music.
 
Roger

These double or raised Pilot house were seen on many Great Lakes vessels too.  The original arrangement was an open bridge atop a closed pilot house.  The watch stander stood on the open bridge and relayed orders via speaking tube to the wheelsman below.  Later the open bridge was enclosed resulting in a second pilot house.
 
Photo original arrangement below:
 
Roger
 
 

I have little or no patience with computers but I have an active build Log for my current project here on MSW.  Build logs here on MSW are stand alone.  They do not require You Tube, Face Book, or anything else.  In your case go to Build Logs for Kit Models.  Pick the date range that applies to your model.  Open a new topic, and start telling your story.  If you have photos saved, click on Add Files at the bottom of your post.  It’s really as easy as that!
 
Roger

For some, but by no means all kit manufacturers, the names given to these woods is little more than a marketing opportunity.  Their advertising leads buyers to think that they are getting deluxe materials while in reality as Jaager points out the species offered would not be chosen by experienced scratch builders. As a general rule, the real premium ship building woods are slow growing species with tight, coded grain structure.  Many fruit woods would qualify.
 
Roger

If your need is to cut wood strips for planking a POB kit hull, a Model maker’s razor (Hand saw) works fine.  These often are sold in sets along with a small miter box.  Look up Zona Saw on Amazon.
 
Roger

LOL, you got me on a technicality, why 5 o’clock - Nelson’s ‘TOD’? (been watching too much Chicago Med lately). Btw, that clock is an old Waltham that was pulled out of a 1936 Cadillac during the Great Depression years when cars were expendable. It belonged to a friend of my parents whose father owned the Cadi. The windup stem would have projected below the dashboard. Sadly, the main spring is gone but that means it can be stuck at any time I deem appropriate 😁

The lego sorting is finished and the eye is Ok for some low dust workshop activities (I wore a pair of goggles just to be sure). Yesterday and today I recommenced work on the hull.
 
The following three pictures show internal views of Cangarda.


In the accommodation spaces the hull frames are hidden behind the internal cladding. I assume that space between the cladding and hull is full of insulation.  The only space where the framing is left exposed is in the engine room. 
 
In the accommodation spaces I decided to use balsa to create the walls. 

This was installed in the fashion of barrel making - the balsa only being slightly thicker than the depth off the webs on the frames. An internal view might make this confusing remark clearer. The internal surfaces will be sanded flat and clad internally when Cangarda is removed from the building board.

With the circular saw being out of action the cutting of the balsa was done with a razor saw.
 
I was distracted from the balsa work when I realised I had mistakenly made the prop shaft casing 18mm diameter when it should have been 14mm. I started carving it back but decided I needed a guide, so I turned up the guide indicated by the white arrow.

Positioning the guide in the casing allowed me to roughly carve the casing to approximately the correct size.

I then shaped a sanding block to the correct external diameter and finished the resizing by sanding.

It will probably take another week or so to finish the balsa work. The walls of the engine room will be devoid of the balsa filling.
 
 
 
 
 

I thought I would show my method of making some handwheels for my project. I start by making some rings of 28 ga brass wire. OD of ring is the size needed for the handwheel  I need. I had some  P.E. handwheels from a watertight door set.  I than drill a center hole for the wheel shaft. The rings and P.E. hw were tinned on one side. I used a jig to center both parts tinned sides facing each other. They were than soldered together in the jig. Once removed from jig they were trimmed up and cleaned up.Only needed a few of difference sizes. Ah the joys of sratchbuilding     Steve

Just a quick note on fires, I'm in winter on the opposite side of the world, but we're under what the US calls "Red Flag Warnings" today and probably tomorrow, with near-record high temperatures, gusty winds, and a long-running drought parching fuels. Ironically, there's also been a lot of prescribed burning in the area lately, taking advantage of more benign but conducive fire conditions (my wife spent all Saturday working a big one). 
 
Back on topic, I'm very much looking forward to seeing how you apply your typical artistry to the silk span.

Made a little more progress:



Railings are done.
 
Stern trim is done.
 
All gunport lids are just dummy gunports, there is nothing behind them.

As the title says new Amazon prime series
 
Victory at Sea
 
Spread across 26 episodes, this Emmy-winning docuseries is the complete story of World War II at sea, culled together from archival footage shot by every major combatant nation.
 
It might only work in the UK but give it a try, mostly black and white footage from the start of the war through to the end. Enjoy
 
Regards
Guy

Thanks, that is what I already have and use and it is great.  The AL Chopper was a gift, I am trying to be polite and find some use out of it with better blades.