Roger Pellett

Gary,
 
These tiny LED lights open all sorts of new modeling possibilities.  Having been disappointed by all of the Out Of Order signs on mechanized exhibits in museums, however, I am concerned about longevity.  I would assume that these are battery operated, and I know that LEDs are very efficient.
 
What kind of batteries are you using and what do you expect their lifetime to be?
 
Roger

Thanks so much for all the wonderful and generous comments - you folks are so kind.  And as always, thank you for the likes and for stopping by.
 
 
How do you know I'm not 3/4" tall?
 
 
Interior lighting Prep Work
   
This posting is a bit tedious - I apologize in advance.
 
I put LED lighting on some but not all of my models. There has to be some justification for the effort and the subject needs to call for it. These little dioramas don't just call for it – they scream for it. But in the same way that bright colors can sometimes make small scale models look toy-like, so too can bright lights (or too many of them.) This diorama would be difficult to view without lighting and it will add greatly to the ambiance providing I don't botch it.  There will also be “daytime” through-the-window” lighting which I'll explain in an upcoming post.
 
In addition to the drop light under the vehicle, there will be four pendant lights hanging from the ceiling and a single bench lamp. The pendant lights hang off conduit that roughly scales to a little larger than 1” trade size pipe. The “pipe” is stainless tubing and has an inside diameter of .013”. As you can see in the image below it is quite small and yet if I had something smaller I would use it.
 

 
 
The problem in using small tubing is that there are no prewired LEDs with fine enough wires that will fit through such tubing. Here is a prewired #0805 LED (the size I will be using) and clearly it will not fit down that tubing.
 

 
 
So I solder my own using a simple process that makes soldering fine wires easy and almost enjoyable in a deranged sort of way.  LEDs can be bought in strips that were cut from reels for literally a cent or two apiece, so when I smoke one, it doesn't bother me in the least.  Here are the sizes I use. From left – 0402, 0603, 0805, 3528 and 5050.  The 0402 is small enough that it could be used in an HO scale headlight.
 

 

 
 
LED code numbers refer to the standard SMD (surface mount device) package dimensions and don't indicate a level of brightness. They were designed to be wave soldered onto printed circuit boards, not hand soldered. And confusingly, they are sold by both their metric measurements and their imperial measurements. So a metric #1608 (1.6mm x .08mm) references the same device as an imperial #0603 (.063” x .031”.)  If that isn't confusing enough, there is a metric 0201 and an imperial 0201, but they are not the same device and have a completely different footprint. Same is true for 0402 and 0603. I can solder an imperial 0402, but it would take a wizard to hand solder a metric 0402. Point being – buyer beware.
 

 
I use #39 magnet wire that has a .0038” diameter including insulation and is adequate for feeding a single LED. The insulation is an enamel coating and is better to burn off than to try and scrap off, which damages the underlying copper. With a ball of freshly applied solder on the tip of my iron (almost about to drip off), I quickly insert the wire into the drip before the all flux burns off. This burns off the coating and tins the copper in one step. So after cutting the wires to length, I burn off a 1/4” section about 1” back from the end. This 1/4” section is what gets soldered to the LED connection pads.
 
I place the LED onto a strip of double sided tape and then position the wires over the top and stick them down to the tape on both sides of the LED. This keeps everything in place during soldering. I position the wires so the insulation comes right up to the LED on the right hand side as shown below. I don't care about the other end because those wires will be clipped flush.
 

 
 
I then place a drop of “no-clean” electronic liquid flux on the LED followed by a split second touch with the iron in one hand and solder in the other applied simultaneously. No more than a second. One wire at a time with a cleaned iron tip and a fresh drop of liquid flux for each wire. I've had no luck going back to correct a bad solder joint because the solder becomes thick and clingy and the device can't survive the additional heat. It's a fast one shot thing – not difficult but takes a steady hand.
 

 
 
I use Kester 951 no clean liquid flux, Kester 83-7145-0415 electronic silver solder (.02” dia.) and a Weller 25 watt pencil iron with 1/16” flat tip. This little 1/2oz. syringe type applicator is handy for the flux.
 

 
 
First the desk lamp is made by annealing the stainless tubing and bending it into a gooseneck. The lamp shade is 3/16” diameter aluminum and the base is 1/8” dia. brass. The LED is a 0402 warm white.
 

 
 
The pieces are assembled and the underside of the shade gets a drop of “crystal clear” Gallery Glass to insulate and hold the LED in place. It will dry clear and shrink down flush with the shade or close to it.
 

 
 
The completed lamp is just over a 1/4” tall, 2 scale feet.
 

 
 
I cut four lengths of the tubing for the pendants and work a tiny flange onto one end of each. This mushroomed end will hold the shades and was made by reaming/wallowing with tip of a dressmakers pin.
 

 
 
The aluminum pendant shades are from Ngineering.  I center drill the domes with a #77 drill bit which makes for a tight fit allowing the flange to hold onto the shade.
 

 
 
The shades are primed in and out.
 

 
 
The tubing is pushed through the shade and the 0805 LED wires slipped in. The LEDs were encapsulated with clear Gallery Glass after they were soldered and allowed to dry. This insulates the bare connections so I can push it back into the shade without fear of shorting it out.
 

 
 
Then another drop of Gallery Glass to hold it firm.
 

 
 
The shade tops are painted a heavy acrylic wash over rust colored primer. It looks like oxidized copper (serendipitous and not what I was aiming for, but I like it and must write that down.)
 

 

 
Thanks for looking.  Be safe and stay well.
 
Gary

I was thinking to cover the hull with thin aluminum 0.20 mm stripes then use automotive filler. This would reduce the sanding and shaping hull time.

 
As i started the process i decide either to enlarge the metal pieces to reduce work load or skip it at all and go straight to smooth the hull using car body filler, sanding and repeat the process unit I get the desired effect. Which I did. It would be proved a disastrous decision.

Even hull didn't have any great imperfections, it took around half kilo of filler to cover it all. Then after a few minutes the hull area between frames collapsed. I have seen this happen on another project while using rubber adhesive glue. Probably catalyst heated polystyrene and forced it to shrink. I added locally some acrylic putty to fill the gaps. Even it was easy to work with, body filler on the other hand is not. So working with hard and soft ingredient at the same time is not an option. Another layer of car body filler will do the job although this would require lots of extra sanding effort plus will increase even more the weight of the hull.

 
 

More mast fittings but at least these are a bit more interesting.
 
On the main mast are two supports for mounting the main radar and what I glass is a satellite communications dome. On the fore mast is a further support on which is mounted what appears to be a small radar. Why two radars?
 
Starting with the bracket for the communications dome ( which also carries the fog horn and the main mast fore brace). 
 

 

 
The fog horn mount only features in one of the pictures but I like it so will go with that option.
 
I started with a very basic sketch, i didn't feel I needed to draw all the detail so I only committed the basic dimensions to paper.
 

 
I like soldering jigs because they make the work easier and more accurate. On this occasion the jig was machined from a scrap of wood The dowel locates the previously made mast hoop and the cross slots locate the flanges for mounting the dome and the horn. A brass pin at the end locates the tube for the mast brace.
 

 
The components were soft soldered together.
 

 
The bracket cleaned up well.
 

 
The horn was machined on the lathe with a bit of double handed turning to create to curve,
 

 
The motor for the horn is carried in a rectangular box at its rear end. This has a bit of profiling and was made on the mill.
 

 

 

 
The bracket for the main mast radar is less complicated but was made in a similar manner.
 

 
 
 

 
The fore mast radar bracket was similar - but shorter.
 

 

 
Thats all for today folks.
 

https://www.reuters.com/world/europe/serbia-restores-warship-that-fired-first-shots-world-war-one-2021-11-12/

I am happy to defer to others who might like to have the book as possible future modeling projects do not include Golden Hinde.  If, however, no one else wants It, I would be happy to have it $5.00 s&h.
 
Thanks for offering this
 
Roger
 
 

I'll give it a few days to see.  I'll get back to you. 

Beautiful model Sascha.  I particularly like the linoleum decking.
 
Roger

Sascha,
Upgrading might make your job easier, but the work that you do with the basic tools that you have at your disposal is remarkable.  You are on the way to producing an outstanding model.
 
Roger

I continue to make progress on the Benjamin Noble.  I am currently working on the poop deck, a silly term, but that’s what it’s called on the drawings.  With its open curved bulwark, I have not been looking forward to tackling it.  I will post pictures soon.
 
Since he has not posted a build log, I will wander a bit from my topic to comment on Feathermerchant’ s build of Margaret Oilwill, another Lake vessel.
 
In the late 1800’s, there were three painters who have left us with visual records of Great Lakes vessels; Vincent Nickerson, Howard Sprague, and Asa Whipple.  As each specialized in selling paintings to the vessels owners, their work is considered to be accurate.  There are a number of paintings here in Duluth by Howard Sprague, as he was commissioned by the American Steel Barge Company to paint pictures of their whaleback ships.  Two of his pictures hang in Duluth’s historic  Kitchi Gammi Club, a great place to hold a future NRG Conference 😏.
 
My painting of Western Reserve was painted by Vincent Nickerson in 1890, and sometimes when I have nothing better to do, I surf the web in search of other Nickerson paintings.  The other day, I found a painting by Nickerson, of Margaret Oilwill, Feathermerchant’s subject that had recently been sold by a Cleveland, Ohio art dealer.  I found it by googling Vincent D. Nickerson.  Not exactly a Van De Velde, but an exciting find neverless.
 
Roger

I continue to make progress on the Benjamin Noble.  I am currently working on the poop deck, a silly term, but that’s what it’s called on the drawings.  With its open curved bulwark, I have not been looking forward to tackling it.  I will post pictures soon.
 
Since he has not posted a build log, I will wander a bit from my topic to comment on Feathermerchant’ s build of Margaret Oilwill, another Lake vessel.
 
In the late 1800’s, there were three painters who have left us with visual records of Great Lakes vessels; Vincent Nickerson, Howard Sprague, and Asa Whipple.  As each specialized in selling paintings to the vessels owners, their work is considered to be accurate.  There are a number of paintings here in Duluth by Howard Sprague, as he was commissioned by the American Steel Barge Company to paint pictures of their whaleback ships.  Two of his pictures hang in Duluth’s historic  Kitchi Gammi Club, a great place to hold a future NRG Conference 😏.
 
My painting of Western Reserve was painted by Vincent Nickerson in 1890, and sometimes when I have nothing better to do, I surf the web in search of other Nickerson paintings.  The other day, I found a painting by Nickerson, of Margaret Oilwill, Feathermerchant’s subject that had recently been sold by a Cleveland, Ohio art dealer.  I found it by googling Vincent D. Nickerson.  Not exactly a Van De Velde, but an exciting find neverless.
 
Roger

I continue to make progress on the Benjamin Noble.  I am currently working on the poop deck, a silly term, but that’s what it’s called on the drawings.  With its open curved bulwark, I have not been looking forward to tackling it.  I will post pictures soon.
 
Since he has not posted a build log, I will wander a bit from my topic to comment on Feathermerchant’ s build of Margaret Oilwill, another Lake vessel.
 
In the late 1800’s, there were three painters who have left us with visual records of Great Lakes vessels; Vincent Nickerson, Howard Sprague, and Asa Whipple.  As each specialized in selling paintings to the vessels owners, their work is considered to be accurate.  There are a number of paintings here in Duluth by Howard Sprague, as he was commissioned by the American Steel Barge Company to paint pictures of their whaleback ships.  Two of his pictures hang in Duluth’s historic  Kitchi Gammi Club, a great place to hold a future NRG Conference 😏.
 
My painting of Western Reserve was painted by Vincent Nickerson in 1890, and sometimes when I have nothing better to do, I surf the web in search of other Nickerson paintings.  The other day, I found a painting by Nickerson, of Margaret Oilwill, Feathermerchant’s subject that had recently been sold by a Cleveland, Ohio art dealer.  I found it by googling Vincent D. Nickerson.  Not exactly a Van De Velde, but an exciting find neverless.
 
Roger

I continue to make progress on the Benjamin Noble.  I am currently working on the poop deck, a silly term, but that’s what it’s called on the drawings.  With its open curved bulwark, I have not been looking forward to tackling it.  I will post pictures soon.
 
Since he has not posted a build log, I will wander a bit from my topic to comment on Feathermerchant’ s build of Margaret Oilwill, another Lake vessel.
 
In the late 1800’s, there were three painters who have left us with visual records of Great Lakes vessels; Vincent Nickerson, Howard Sprague, and Asa Whipple.  As each specialized in selling paintings to the vessels owners, their work is considered to be accurate.  There are a number of paintings here in Duluth by Howard Sprague, as he was commissioned by the American Steel Barge Company to paint pictures of their whaleback ships.  Two of his pictures hang in Duluth’s historic  Kitchi Gammi Club, a great place to hold a future NRG Conference 😏.
 
My painting of Western Reserve was painted by Vincent Nickerson in 1890, and sometimes when I have nothing better to do, I surf the web in search of other Nickerson paintings.  The other day, I found a painting by Nickerson, of Margaret Oilwill, Feathermerchant’s subject that had recently been sold by a Cleveland, Ohio art dealer.  I found it by googling Vincent D. Nickerson.  Not exactly a Van De Velde, but an exciting find neverless.
 
Roger

Beautiful model Sascha.  I particularly like the linoleum decking.
 
Roger

Beautiful model Sascha.  I particularly like the linoleum decking.
 
Roger

I continue to make progress on the Benjamin Noble.  I am currently working on the poop deck, a silly term, but that’s what it’s called on the drawings.  With its open curved bulwark, I have not been looking forward to tackling it.  I will post pictures soon.
 
Since he has not posted a build log, I will wander a bit from my topic to comment on Feathermerchant’ s build of Margaret Oilwill, another Lake vessel.
 
In the late 1800’s, there were three painters who have left us with visual records of Great Lakes vessels; Vincent Nickerson, Howard Sprague, and Asa Whipple.  As each specialized in selling paintings to the vessels owners, their work is considered to be accurate.  There are a number of paintings here in Duluth by Howard Sprague, as he was commissioned by the American Steel Barge Company to paint pictures of their whaleback ships.  Two of his pictures hang in Duluth’s historic  Kitchi Gammi Club, a great place to hold a future NRG Conference 😏.
 
My painting of Western Reserve was painted by Vincent Nickerson in 1890, and sometimes when I have nothing better to do, I surf the web in search of other Nickerson paintings.  The other day, I found a painting by Nickerson, of Margaret Oilwill, Feathermerchant’s subject that had recently been sold by a Cleveland, Ohio art dealer.  I found it by googling Vincent D. Nickerson.  Not exactly a Van De Velde, but an exciting find neverless.
 
Roger

While I don’t doubt that the Archimedes drills are not intended for use with standard twist drills for the reasons given by Wefalk, I have not had a problem using small wire sized twist drills in mine to drill hard woods like pear and box.  I have also used it to drill holes in brass.  In all cases, holes drilled have been thin materials where the drill bit does not bind.
 
Roger
 
 

I was given this kit as a Christmas present in 1964.  It is the 1 :144 version.  It is the only kit that I ever built.  Although fine details do not stand up to close scrutiny, it looks great in its case sitting on top of my bookcase.
 
William H. Webb’s folio of plains, published in their entirety in a 1990
issue of the Nautical Research Journal includes a detailed drawing of a nearly identical vessel named America, sold to the Russians.  It could be used to add detail to this nice kit.
 
Roger

Old shipbuilding and seamanship texts often had oversized drawings that folded out or were included in an envelope attached to the book cover or even as a separate volume.  In scanning the book for reproduction the person doing the work often doesn’t bother to unfold the drawings, or leaves them out entirely.
 
The University of Michigan has one of the largest academic  libraries in the US, and since they have taught Naval Architecture and Marine Engineering since the late 1800’s their library includes many books of interest to us.  They were also one of the first US Universities to begin to digitize their collection.  I have bought two books from them:  an 1866 US Navy Ordnance Manual and a Naval Architecture text from the same era.  Both were of far better quality than the usual imported offerings,  and I will continue to buy more, but even these each omitted a drawing.
 
Roger

Hi Keith
 
The foremast one is curious. However, it does look like (from the initial photos) that the foremain might be loose footed & the main main laced. Moving the gooseneck pivot point aft would mean the sail foot automatically loosens when the boom is eased out (good), but wouldn't make a difference if the foot was laced. So that's a possibility. The only thing I know for sure is that a gaff main puts a huge load on the gooseneck fitting, having broken two 7/8" solid bronze gooseneck pins, with a comparatively small 24' hull, see results below...

Mark,
 
The photos I have are only part views but the sketch below hopefully shows what I mean.
 

 
Eberhard, Keith, John, Druxey, Pat, Thank you all for your comments - you are too kind.
 
I am pleased to report the weather has turned milder - 15c (59f) in the workshop today - second jumper postponed.

I haven’t seen those spade drill bits in years! My father used to have one. Very easy to be very accurate.I used it all the time.

See the current issue of the Nautical Research Journal for more about this Shipyard and a model of a ship built there.

While I don’t doubt that the Archimedes drills are not intended for use with standard twist drills for the reasons given by Wefalk, I have not had a problem using small wire sized twist drills in mine to drill hard woods like pear and box.  I have also used it to drill holes in brass.  In all cases, holes drilled have been thin materials where the drill bit does not bind.
 
Roger
 
 

Phil,
 
I suggest that you build the model as two half hulls to be joined later.
 
See:
 Ros Ambrisio’s  Ampa Brazilian Custom Cruiser Model
My Benjamin Noble Freighter Model
Valeriy’s Varyag Cruiser model
 
There are advantages to this approach:
First, the flat joint between the two hulls gives you a flat datum to work from.
Many model building operations benefit from the half hull segments laying flat on the table. These include squaring bulkheads.  Using body plan templates to check hull contours, locating cutting out and affixing features to the hull- particularly adding the armor plating.
 
Actually, I would add a centerline assembly incorporating the ram and propeller aperture. Since these are distinctive features that can be easily distorted by sanding, I would make them from brass.
 
Roger