G.L.

14.33

The buffer is glued and nailed to the wale. Later the steel nails are replaced by tree nails.

14.32

To give it the curved hull shape I use my approved method to make it wet and bend it above a candle flame.

14.31

On top of the upper wale there is over the whole length of hull a wooden buffer. It has a half round shape. To give it that shape, I make an scraper.

Gluing the fenders on the cross section.

Continuing to shape the fenders. Rounding the outside edges. I drill also some holes for tree nails.

Fitting the fenders again. The small wooden block between the lower part is for keeping them with the correct interval.

To make the outside curve of the fenders exactly identical I glue the fender two by two together with a piece of paper between them so they can be separated easily after shaping.

With the help of the paper template I saw the inner curves of the fenders. I fit them on the hull and adapt where needed.

I make the recesses for the fenders in the outboard trims.

To have a good fit of the fenders on the hull, I make a paper template.

Thank you Derek, Michael and Christian.

Your reactions are very stimulating

14.30

The chain plates are glued and nailed to the bulwark after they have been blackened.

14.29

The chain plates are attached to the bulwark in different angles in the extension of the shrouds. To determine the angle I place a stick in the mast step. With a piece of string at the mast head height it is easy to draw the line of the angle on the bulwark.

14.28

Three chain plates with dead eyes in a row.

14.27

I put a brass nail trough the eye strop and the chain plate rings to fix the dead eye in the strop. The nail is sealed with a drop of tin solder and the excess of the nail is cut.

14.26

Both sides of the eye are filed to make space for the eye strop rings.

14.25

For the chain plates I fold the end of a brass strip around a 1,5 mm drill to make a small eye.

14.24

I solder on both ends a small ring, sliced from a brass tube. Afterwards there is some file work to make both sides equal.

14.23

I file the tops of the cut ends flat and melt a drop of solder tin on it.

14.22

To make the dead eye strops, I start with turning a brass wire round the remainder of the hard wooden stock of which I made the dead eyes and I cut it in rings.

14.21

To drill de holes I push the wooden disks in the big hole, I turn the hinge upside down an drill out the small holes.

14.20

To be able to drill the holes in equal positions in all the dead eyes I make a little auxiliary tool. I drill a hole with the same diameter as the dead eyes in one side of a hinge. In the opposite side I drill the three holes of the dead eye.

14.19

With the railing in place, I can make and place the dead eyes
I turn a cylindrical stock in hard wood, I believe it is ipe and make grooves in it, using a round file.

On ‎30‎-‎1‎-‎2018 at 8:30 AM, Wintergreen said:

Good fit of the horizontal knee. Well executed 😀

Thanks Hakan.

Patrick,

Your loose hand is very steady. Maybe You had a Grimbergen Tripel before painting.

I like it that You paint in a way that the wood grain remains visible.

G.L.