G.L.

Part 16: Coloring the model.

16.1

At this stage I want to paint my model. For me this is a very tense moment because now I can spoil all the work I made before. The Flemish fishing sloops were real working boats and they looked like that. It is not my intention to give my shrimper the look of a yacht or a pilot cutter. It has to look like the boats on the pictures below.

On ‎21‎-‎2‎-‎2018 at 7:02 PM, Wintergreen said:

Nice progress!

Thanks Hakan

The stanchions fit in four 2 mm holes at each corner of the hatch.

After staining it dark, I drill a hole of 1mm at each corner and glue a brass nail in it. The nails fit in the stanchion tubes.

I make the railing of oak.

After soldering and filing.

I put the tubes together and solder them.

I make the stanchions from three brass tubes of different diameters which fit one in the other.

I am not an expert in occupational safety, but the forward hatch seems to me as extremely dangerous. At one side a ladder and at three sides an open hole, and that on the deck of a sometimes swinging ship. The risk to step into the hatch at the wrong side is too big for me. In the gallery of contemporary models, I find examples of a railing around hatches, so I decide to place one around my hatch as well.

Derek,

Your guns are looking great. I guess you are drawing near the completion of your cross section?

G.L.

Nice gun, Derek!

I am still figuring out how I will make my guns. At this moment I am thinking about pouring in tin.

G.L.

Before placing the brackets and gangways, I want to color the inner bulwarks. For the color I let me inspire by HMS Victory, one of the rare still existing examples of period men of war. On HMS Victory the bulwarks are in ocher. I paint mine also in light ocher. I use oil paint for it, the kind of paint artists use to paint on canvas. My wife is going to the art school, so I find the color that I need in her paint box. I dilute the paint strongly with turpentine and add some drips of siccative oil, otherwise it takes weeks before the paint dries. Before the paint is dry I rub it up with a soft cotton. The result is that the wood colors in ocher, but the wood grain remains visible. The inside of the portholes are painted in red just like on HMS Victory.

15.13

Both sheer rail in place. They are not yet glued because I want to paint the inner bulwark first.

15.12

Now I sand the sheer rails to their shape with the band sander and round off the edges with sand paper.

15.11

When the glue is dry I lay them in position and carefully take over the bulwark shape with a pencil.

15.10

Then it is time to glue the sheer rails together.

15.9

I hollow the notches with the help of some chisels.

15.8

To find out where I have to make notches in the underside of the sheer rail, I hold the graphite pintle of a pencil in a long nose pliers and mark the stanchions on the sheer rail.

15.7

On the original boats all stanchions were incorporated in the bottom of the sheer rail. I will try to do this as well. That is also the reason why I left stick out the stanchions a little bit above the bulwark (See part 14.2).

15.6

All the sheer rail parts are roughly ready.

15.5

Continuing at the sides to the stern.

15.4

The joint that makes the connection with the following piece.

15.3

I saw the shape well out of the lines with a fretsaw.

15.2

I cut the template out with scissors and copy it on a plank.

Part 15:The sheer rail

15.1

The sheer rail is too long to make it in one piece. I make it in three parts. To obtain the shape of it I draw a template on the model with the help of a piece of cardboard.