G.L.

Raw hatch and grating

I glue them together using the same piece of millimeter paper as before to obtain right angles. I let the glue of the hatches dry with some weights on top of them. On completion I check them on the cross section.

Sawing the coamings for the hatches.

As you can see, I made the grating a bit larger than needed just in case it wouldn't be fully intact. I will wait until the hatch is made to size it to the correct dimensions.

All the pieces put together.

In the grooves I glue 3 mm wide and 1.5 mm thick laths.            
I start at the outsides and form the grating on a piece of mm paper to be able to glue the laths at 3 mm interspaces

On my Proxxon saw table I like to use a table saw sledge on which a millimeter paper is glued with the 0 mm line exactly on the saw blade edge. With the help of that sledge it is easy to saw 3 mm wide grooves of 1.5 mm deep at 3 mm intervals.

I make the grating in walnut because it is a better wood than oak to saw out little pieces. I start to saw 3x3 mm thick planks and I glue them together with a drip of wood glue at each end. Like this they form a 3 mm thick plank.

I will now make the gun deck hatches, starting with the grating for the after hatch.

12.16

Cabin entrance set into its spot. I do not glue it yet, I want to wait until all the deck gear is colored. It is located a bit right of mid ship to allow to pull the jib boom backwards.

12.15

Doors and hatch open.

12.14

Doors and hatch closed.

12.13

I finish the hinges by filing them.

12.12

To make the door hinges, I make four brass strips and saw four pieces of brass tube with a length equal to the width of the strips. I solder the tubes on the edge of each strip.

12.11

The cabin entrance with hatch and doors. The doors are not yet attached with hinges.

12.10

To give the hatch the same curve as the roof I glue it together on top of the roof. A piece of paper between both prevents that the hatch is glued on the roof. When the glue of the hatch is dry, I sand it and make the hatch rails. On the front side the pincher is holding the front plank in place while the glue is drying

12.9

After the roof is sanded.

12.8

The top side of the cabin entrance can now be covered with planks. I glue a strip of black card board between the planks because I presume the roof was caulked. In the roof the opening for entering is left uncovered.

12.7

I glue the bottom-, top front- and top middle beam between the 2 sides and fill the so formed front frame with planks. The width of both top beams was almost double as it should be. When the glue was dry, I sanded the topside of the deckhouse arched with the band sander as can be seen on the picture.

12.6

I start to make the frames of both sides of the deckhouse. Afterwards I fill the inside of the frames with planks.

12.5

Just behind the chimney is the cabin entrance. It has a gliding hatch and double door. I would like to make a functioning hatch and doors.            

 

12.4

Here it is assembled and standing into position. Before it will be placed permanently it has to be blackened.

12.3

As there is a stove in the crew shelter, there has to be a chimney. I make it of a 5mm brass tube sawn under 45° and soldered together. It stands on a small brass ring, sawn and filed out of a brass plate.

12.2

I add also the a small rail with 3 holes for belaying pins, connecting the jib boom support with the knight head.             
The belaying pins are made on the lathe of a spar of beech.

1.       I first cut the thin part of the pin.

2.       With a round file I shape the body of the handle.

3.       I then cut off the pin from the spar and turn it around with the thin part in the chuck and I round the upper side of the handle with a flat (triangle) file.

4.       The result.

5.       The pins in the rail.

Part 12: Making deck gear

12.1

Now the deck is laid, I can finish the jib boom support with props on the deck.