G.L.

Shaping the tiller arm with fret-saw and file.

13.6

The tiller arm was made a bit later then the rudder, but I add it with this post for the logical continuation of my report.

Taking the measurements of a piece of wood.

13.5

On the deck there are five wooden anti-slip strips to give the helmsman foothold.

13.4

The rudder is attached to the stern with one long rudder pintle held in three braces. I make the middle brace a bit longer than drawn in the plan to give support to all the rudder planks.

13.3

The rudder, provisionally attached to the stern.

13.2

When the glue is dry, I saw the rudder along the template. and sand it.

Part 13: Making the rudder.

13.1

The rudder is made of three oak planks, the main piece and two after pieces. Because the main piece is thicker than the after pieces. I lay a small sheet of brass of half the thickness difference below the after piece planks to glue them together. I lay also a similar brass sheet on top of the whole to put some pressure on it while the glue is drying.

12.42

The stove pipe in its holder on the deck when the furnace is not in use and the hatch is closed.

12.41

The furnace, painted in black and placed on position in the store.

12.40

All the parts of the cooking furnace from left to right: the furnace; the removable stove pipe. The holder for the stove pipe when it is stored on the deck in case the store hatch is closed.

12.39

In the shrimp cooking store stands the shrimp cooking-furnace. The furnace is made in a similar manner as the stove of the crew shelter (post 9.8 -9.11), using a wooden cylinder and cardboard.

23 hours ago, MarcM said:

Ik gebruik Birchwood Casey Brass Black om messing te zwarten. Ook gebruikt door wapensmeden.

 

Keep on modelling ...

Marc

Thanks for your input, Marc. Where do you buy it?

23 hours ago, amateur said:

I like the look of your metalwork.

(and of course, but that goes without saying, the quality of your woodwork  )

 

Jan

Thanks Jan,

I think that I am only an 'amateur' in metalwork. I have seen craftsmanship af a much higher standard on this forum.

G.L.

Maybe an advice to future Triton cross section builders is at its place here: Wait until you are arrive at the planking at the level of the  gun ports before placing the gun port sills and lintels and make the frames (fourth futtock and top timber) some centimeters higher than indicated on the plan.

My frames are also a little too short. It is not really a problem for the most of them because their top ends will be hidden by the inner and outer planking, but the fourth futtock of frame sticks out of the sheer rail and must be lengthened at both sides. To have a larger glue surface, I saw them off under an angle of approximate 45° and glue a comfortable long piece on top of it. I do the same with the fourth futtock of frame C because this one remains also visible.

The notches for those lintels have to be filled.

103.bmp

Of course the gun port lintels are also too low, therefore I saw them out.

My mistake can be resolved and will fortunately been hidden by the inner and outer hull planking. I start to place new gun port sills. Now I have the exact height indicated by the inboard planking.

they are even lower on the starboard side

While continuing the inboard planking upward from the gun deck, it becomes clear what I realized already since a while. I made the gun port openings already at the start in the frame production stage. Now it seems that the gun port sills are sitting too low.

On ‎11‎-‎1‎-‎2018 at 11:28 AM, Mirabell61 said:

I like your companionway with doors and slide cover G.L.

 

What have you been using for the resembled dark caulking lines on deck, are those black card stipes ?

 

Nils

Yes Nils, I use strips of 220 grams black paper which I glue at the side of the planks with ordinary white wood glue before fixing them on the deck beams.

G.L.

Aviaamator,

Your tree nails with the dark edge look fantastic!

G.L.

On ‎11‎-‎1‎-‎2018 at 8:55 AM, vaddoc said:

I just came across your log G.L, very very nice. I think that your deck looks fantastic.

But just for your lofting using pencils and rulers without the help of computers, you have my respect!

What do you use for brass blackening?

 

Regards

Vaddoc

 

I use an oxidant which is called 'oxidant 1130', it is mainly used for brass but it works also with copper. I don't know the exact name or the composition of the product. I buy it in a shop for artist products in Ghent (Belgium): 'De gouden pluim' ( http://www.degoudenpluim.be/ ). They fill it in the wanted amount in plastic bottles.

12.38

The edges of the handles are filed round and blackened and finally nailed on the planks.

12.37

I hammer the edges flat and drill a nail hole in the flattened part.