Jolley Roger

Dear fellow modellers,
 
We are honoured to join this community and share our joy of creation with you.
First of all, let us introduce ourselves. We are a family company from the Czech Republic engaged in the production and sale of models and accessories, specialising in historical sailing ships.
 
Our main products are accessories for both plastic and wooden ship models. These include: laser-cut wooden decks for plastic models, brass cannons, CNC wooden blocks, photo-etched parts, cloth sails sewn on a CNC machine, double-sided printed cloth flags and much more.
 
We always try to achieve as much authenticity as possible in our products and base them on the most authentic documents, preferably original plans or specialist publications.
 
In addition to individual accessories, we also offer complete sets of accessories, e.g. blocks or photo-etched parts for specific models in a given scale. For blocks, we also provide customized plans for rigging. However, if you do not find a suitable sets or sails in a given scale, we also offer custom production.

Last year we also released our first complete 1:72 scale Statenjacht Utrecht plastic kit, which not only contains plastic parts but many parts such as blocks, sails, and fittings are made of more authentic materials.

In the future we plan to expand our range of products and kits and also create another kit. For example, we have recently expanded our range of wooden walnut blocks to include more types.

You can also take a look at some examples of our products.
PS: The last photo is a Soleil Royal 1:100 model built from a Heller kit by modeler from Vietnam, which we share with his permission and on which he used all our accessories. In the photo you can see mainly flags, sails, blocks, ropes and small part of wooden deck.

Well, the magnificent (10 mm) seven ride out



I tried building up the colours by a series of washes rather than one coat. I was especially pleased with the horses; the photos do not do them justice. I was able to get shades of brown across their bodies. I gave all the figures a final wash of the Agrax Earthshade and it did a good job of highlighting the details and muting some of the over bright elements. I was quite pleased with the result bearing in mind they are nominally 10mm figures. The armour seems to match Spanish armour I have seem online but this does not pretend to reflect an exact period in time. The castle as modelled is in its current partly ruined state so the figures are an anachronism anyway and are best considered re-enactors. I wanted something to show the scale of the castle.
I had really planned to add many more figures to the castle but given the way the terrain finished up and poses of the figures I found I could only use a limited number. I had planned to show the mounted figures riding up the causeway but of course the riders would need to lean into the hill and the poses I have are for flat ground and look rather silly on a slope.
So they were added passing through the main gate and the mix of matte Mod Podge and dust was added to make the causeway surface. 
Somehow it feels like I should be adding yet more details somewhere but I'm calling this complete, thus the self indulgent set of photos. I want to try to get some better pictures of models generally so a new camera and some lights may be a thought. If so I'll re-photograph this one



The "night" shots are a bit bright; partly because the camera keeps compensating and even with the exposure screwed all the way down its still not how it really looks
 
So at the end what do we have. The Aedes Ars kits have limitations of scale and detail because of the medium and the method of construction. Purists will hate the size of the blocks (Aedes Ars uses the same block sizes regardless of the kits scale). Window openings, crenelations and some doors all end up simplified or out of scale. The blockwork is repetitive and time consuming (my friend though this would be like Lego and finished in a weekend). I like the end result in spite of the criticisms. The "stone" blocks are more impressive than anything made by painting plastic 
On this kit the landscaping was hugely fun and I learnt a lot. I am very pleased with the cliffs and I learnt a lot about using Woodland Scenic products. I want to try figure painting now with something at a saner scale.
The completed model is sat on the dining room table because every other horizontal surface I had considered is too small  I may have to tour the thrift stores for something to convert.
 
Finally I would like to say thank you for all the advice and encouraging comments. There is a huge wealth of knowledge on this site from history to techniques and it is freely shared. I am a grateful recipient and this project is the better for it
 
I am considering the next project which will be less than 12 inches long and I'm thinking its time I showed up on the ship sections before my membership credentials are revoked
 
Thank you as ever for looking in and the likes
 
Alan
 
 
 
 
 

I added the vegetation to the other two sides.


Then I started adding the trees. The trees are created from Woodland Scenic armatures for pine trees using the smallest sizes. Even then I cut some down and I feel I may be stretching things a bit in terms of scale. They do occupy the space I was aiming at based on the drone video so I am going to call it good.
The foliage is created by painting the armature with WS tacky glue. and then dipping the tree in foliage then shaping the foliage to suit. Its wonderfully messy; the foliage much prefers to stick to the tiny residue on your fingers instead of the ample coating on the armature. It then sticks to the tweezers and finally falls off as you install the tree on the model.
I initially used the conifer green fine leaf material but later switched to the coarse turf and bushes which are a lighter green which broke up the uniform dark green.




In retrospect I should have added an inch onto the baseboard to allow a belt of trees to completely line the one side of the model but at the start I was rather slavishly following the kit and made the baseboard the size of the cardboard base pieces. Which brings me to something that puzzles me with the Aedes Ars kits. The kit provides card bases and the instructions show the model built on these bases but I cannot see how the finished model would be adequately supported. This is now seriously heavy. 
I toyed with adding trees to the ledge at right but I think it looks better without doing that. It seems that there is a serious issue with deciding when you have done enough.
 
Now I am back off the model with a number of miniature riders to paint and add to the pathway.  Then the path can be completed and I can build the display case
 
After working on this I am very much in awe of railway modellers and the various Waterloo and other battle recreators (the superb LHS from @Old Collingwood for example) creating much more complex and larger dioramas. I found this to be fun but it is quite challenging and quite overwhelming at times
 
Thank you all for looking in, the likes and all the support
 
Alan
 
 
 

I experimented with basic background colours for the grass areas. These will be predominantly covered in dry grass with greener shades where there is more shade or water.
I decided on a green grey mix for the base and added some dry grass to assess the effect

I think that is going to work so I painted in all the grass areas. Its dried a bit greener than I expected but from a distance it looks quite good without going further. At least its an indication of what the finished model may look like

I added a few more rocks and found that I had forgotten the cliffs at the back corner so they were built up and painted.


Trees and bushes get added to the back side so I kept the lower cliffs fairly simple.
 
Ready to add grass I think
 
Thanks for looking in, all the comments and helpful tips and likes
 
Alan
 
 
 

I finished adding the rock faces and blending them into the landscape with the Scupltamold. I have to work with small batches because the setting time is very short; I only seem to get about ten minutes before it becomes too difficult to work.
I added the spur and the rock plug that are featured in the drone video. The rock plug is a bit too close to the end of the wall but I don't have any more depth on the baseboard. Cliff effects were added to this too. Finally rocks were added to the slopes and the edge of the pathway roughly in line with the real landscape.
This will be left to dry for a day. Work calls tomorrow and the Woodland Scenic parcel should arrive then too.




I think the next task will be to add the grass. I have the Woodland Scenics fine yellow grass for the majority of the landscape with some green added in shady areas.
 
This will be a new experience for me. I have used the material on small areas and brushed adhesive on to the base. This time I'm thinking about using a spray bottle loaded with what seems to be commonly called "scenic glue". Woodland Scenics make their own but I have also read that the same adhesive can be arrived at by diluting white glue with four parts water or four parts alcohol (isopropyl variety rather than the maple bourbon). Does anyone have any experiences or preferences with these varieties. It also seems that once applied the grass should be sprayed with the scenic glue to bed it down. The alcohol based variant is claimed to have better wetting and penetrating power. Some tests are going to be necessary. 
I am going to need to be fairly careful with these next steps. I don't think I dare invert the model to get rid of excess loose turf. It would use this years and next years allowance of bad language if the towers parted company with the base
Thank you all fotr looking in and all the comments
 
Alan
 
 

The landscaping continues. The lay up of kitchen towels soaked in diluted white glue was completed but the pattern of the towels was too visible so I added a layer of toilet paper which also had the advantage that it could be moved around with the brush to create undulations and contours in the basic shapes. Once dry I gave it a coat of gesso to give it a good surface for adding plaster or paint.
I had made a series of rock face formations using plaster of Paris and crumpled kitchen foil which turned out quite nicely. I have started building up teh cliff faces with them. I am using Sculptamold to stick them to the formers and also to fill in and blend the pieces. \

The cheap artists palette knives are working really well. I'm glad I bought them
 

I had originally planned to do the grass effects and then add the boulders to the hillsides but I think that is going to look a bit artificial and the boulders will look too separate so I will add them as part of this current activity. I will try to mask them while the grass is being added. Another shipment of Woodlands Scenics is expected shortly
I'm also trying to decide on the base colour for the areas beyond the cliffs. I plan to use yellow grass and thinking a light grey base might work better than tan or brown.  Darker green bushes will also be added and the limestone rocks will rise out of the grass
 
Thanks for looking in, all the likes and comments. Its starting to feel like I'm actually achieving something.
 
Alan

https://news.err.ee/1609172593/europe-s-oldest-compass-found-in-lootsi-wreck-even-older-cog-still-underground
 
More information in links at the bottom of the article.

Greetings!

It has been a while since my last post but work proceeds on Foss Landing. I have completed the Addison and here are a few photos. Construction is quite similar to the Jewel so there is no need to repeat. As with the Jewel, I chose to rig with scale blocks and rope, using turnbuckles for the standing rigging.  The arrows on the photo below were for a brief tutorial on rigging that can be found on the Sierra West forum.





I will probably add some more details like netting, spare rope and barrels at a later time.
This completes the structures of Foss Landing. Here are some photos of them all laid out like in the diorama.








And here is a photo of some HO scale add-ons that can be seen in the photos above.


Next up: finishing the barrels, oil drums and trash cans, then onto the Shipyard.

Jeff

I made some progress with the roofing today. Its all complete apart from the nasty section of the semicircular dome roof. That is going to be very fiddly. I filed the corner bastions to shape and I think that finishes the work with blocks apart from some serious sanding of some sections



I tiled the roof for the octagon tower off model and I'm not too happy with it. Its very fiddly filing away at tiny shards of tile as you approach the peak. I will try to clean it up a bit and see how it looks then. In a perfect world I would have remembered to photocopy the templates onto card so that repeats could be done.

I indulged myself in a check of the lighting and I am happy that all leds are still working and there is no light bleed. 
Our test engine is due back so work is going to start to intrude again. You just can't seem to escape real life.
Thanks for looking in and the likes
Alan

hello folks!
 
if you remember a topic from a few years ago about HMS Pegasus 3D model I did for David Antscherl and Greg Herbert, I said the model would be available for purchase once it's finished. I've talked to Chuck and he OK'd me posting the info here. so, the ship is finally available, you can get it on Artstation.com online marketplace. sadly, I still haven't finished the sails. I'm still working on them from time to time but the progress is slow and with my very limited free time it'll take a while. and I still can't stand digital ropes, 🤣. if you're OK with that you can get it here: 
https://www.artstation.com/marketplace/p/oBMje/hms-pegasus-swan-class-sail-ship
 
now, a few big disclaimers before you spend some cash:
- you'll need to create an account on that website to be able to purchase the product. the membership is free, but you can't buy it without one
- you need to know your way around in BLENDER. it's a free 3D modeling software in which the ship was created. in order to view and inspect the model you need to know how to navigate in Blender, select and isolate elements, turn on/off materials and such... it's not that hard to learn but it is time investment nevertheless, so if you've never heard of Blender or never used it before, maybe hold off on purchasing the model before you get yourself acquainted with the software first.  
- you'll see two prices listed on product page - one for personal use and the other for commercial use. if you're not going to use the model for a video game, commercial animations and whatnot, go for personal use (this ability to list two prices based on how the ship is going to be used is the main reason why I chose this marketplace. others don't allow it)
- while Blender does have some limited ability to show some measures it's not a technical CAD program, so there's no ability to show technical drawings and precise measures like in Solidworks, AutoCAD or Fusion360
- you need to have somewhat powerful computer to view the file without it being a lag fest.
     - I guess any graphics card from Nvidia 20xx series and upward (and their AMD equivalents) should suffice (I'm using GTX 1070Ti actually, and have no problems with viewing and modeling, but this card is definitely on the lower end of the spectrum, especially for rendering). I imagine computers and laptops with integrated graphics will have a hard time, if they can run it at all
     - 8GB of RAM and more (preferably more, for smoother experience),
     - 1GB of disk space to store the file. 
 
 
 
inside the file you'll find a model of the ship and all of the materials packed in. parts are organized in collections which you can hide/show and you can do the same with individual parts for close inspection.



 
you can show/hide stuff/materials in viewport:




 
 
you'll see these objects shaped like crossing axes at the doors and some hatches, called empties. these are objects that I have parented doors to. select one of these and you can open and close doors.


 
and I think that's about it. should you have any questions or run into problems feel free to contact me here or via PM. I hope you'll enjoy using the model and may it help you with your builds. and, once more, carefully read the disclaimer so you don't end up purchasing something that won't be of use to you.
 
cheers!
Denis
 
PS: here's the current state of sails:

I've made an initial sanding of the outer tower walls and completed the curved tower after much grumbling. Its a bit messy but it will clean up although its going to be very frustrating to sand down between the pillars and windows. I then discovered a mistake with the curved tower. Somehow I had let the template creep out of position while the glue was setting and didn't notice it until I came to start the walls around it.

You can see the section of green at bottom right showing where the wall should go. 

And with the next level in place there is a nasty gap.
So I dismantled the upper part of the wall on the right, cut some card to shape and glued it into place after filing the right side wall to a steeper angle where it meets the pillar. That allowed me to rotate the pillars a bit and the wall will curve more.

I rebuilt the wall and it seems to have done the job. I plan to add another piece of card under the upper part of the tower which is just resting in place at present. That will be large enough to sit on the walls and should help stopping any light bleed
 
I did a quick check and all lights are still functioning.
 
I started on the upper works and am now down to the last bag of blocks.

I think I will make it but its amazing how many blocks disappear from the tray when you lay one of the longer walls.
Now I am encountering some conundrums with the upper details and the plan (general guide) is no real help
 
 

If you look through the arch into a courtyard marked C there are arrows on the surrounding walls showing where piece "C" is fitted. This lines it up with the sill of the arch that leads from the courtyard into "B"

Thats fine except that then leaves the raised floor halfway up the initial archway.  I'm not sure what the optimum solution is. Maybe cut back the floor and build a set of stairs running up to the raided floor. There is another curiosity. The templates seem to suggest that interior walls are not built . Instead a series of piers three blocks high are built at intervals along the walls. That might hold the floor - except its too small
 

Piece "C" is one blocks width too small for the space so will fall within the piers - or even an interior wall. The same is true for courtyard "B":

I think I will make some new templates that are wider and build interior walls for them to rest on.
 
The guide doesn't have any useful views on the subject.

It looks like we have reached the interesting part of the build. I'll see if there are any detail photos of the real thing that might be enlightening. Otherwie its time to get that artistic license out and read the fine print!
Thanks for looking in and the likes and comments
Alan
 
 
 
 
 
 

I am back with the blockwork. I gave myself an easy start. No windows and the blocks only run part way down the walls. The rest is covered by landscape. I finished the first bottle of glue provided with the kit. A full bottle of Weldbond has already been consumed too. 
Thanks for looking in and the comments and likes
 
Alan

After a shamefully long absence I'm back and hoping to make regular appearances again. Work has been very intrusive and eaten up far too much modelling time. Helping a friend through surgery has used up what was left of my waking hours. Hopefully both are coming to a conclusion in a positive way shortly

This is what I've been spending far too much time dealing with. This is the F-35B engine in Powered Lift mode; nozzle down and Liftfan engaged. Its not in afterburner but you can still see the shock diamonds from the exhaust. AB is not supposed to be engaged in Powered Lift but we have done it accidently and it really cooks the concrete
The one slight benefit of all this work stuff is a bump in the piggy bank. Most is going off to pay for boring stuff like replacement water pipes in the house and repainting the exterior
I have used the opportunity to add to the kits on the shelf (and in the cupboard and under the bed etc)



I quite fancy another Wingnut Wings kit before they disappear forever but I'm not sure I am good enough to do them justice. I've also been looking for the Flyhawk Iron Duke ship model kit but the only place I can find it is Squadron and I seem to recall mixed reviews about them. Anyone got any recent experience since they absorbed Freetime.
So back to the Castillo Loarre. I try to be a little done when I have an hour spare. Although the pace is glacial it actually lends itself to this sort of attention. The sessions are far too short to get fed up with endlessly shaping the bricks. The inside of the circular towers are really tedious to do and smoothing them out afterwards is a bit challenging, Thats where the deep sockets in the background come in. I have stuck sandpaper onto them and they fit onto the tower and can be rotated to clean up the interior walls. The short sessions are handy in another way. The work is all done reaching across the baseboard and the old back gets a bit cross about that after a while.
The lack of time has meant my plan to complete the curtain walls before the hot weather arrived has failed but a desk fan on the workbench is keeping things tolerable in the garage. At least nothing is light enough to blow away on this project.
So, this is where I am now




Only 2 and a half towers left and enthusiasm is still there to make it to the end. Then I can switch to other bits of the model; the main building and the lighting.
Sorry its been a while but thank you for stopping by.
Alan
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

And done 

Well here we are the end of this build.  Thank you all for following along on the two part adventure! 😁
 
Some final pictures of the S2C in its place on the shelf, next to the dusty old S2B (Airfix 1990's mould.)  

Well after a nerve-wracking day or so when MSW was doings it's "Error 502" and flashbacks to MSW 1.0 were a recurrent and troubling thought, I am relived to be able to do this little update!  😁
 
Much sanding/filling and undercoating still going on.  With little side details being worked on for a change.  Wheel-chocks, intake/engine covers and crew ladders.
 
Getting close to actually cracking open the Dark Sea Grey.
 
Mightily relived not to be logging into MSW 3.0!  

Spoken for.
 
I picked up a Brig Niagra kit on here for the price of shipping several years ago and I don’t envision getting around to it. I’d like to extend the same offer I took advantage of to someone else. Of course if you have an Ancre monograph that you aren’t using, or the Speedwell books from Seawatch I’d gladly pay shipping (within the US) in trade 😁.
 

So for the last 3-4 days I have been making the saw fly.  All of the square frames are now shaped to within 1/16" (give or take a little) of their final shape.  I used a combination of the scroll saw, disc sander and a mini drum sander chucked into my bench top drill press to get them to this point.  I have also installed frames 3, 25, and 47 into the frame jig.  Once the glue is dry on those three frames, I will add the keel assymbly to it and start installing the rest of the square frames.  The half and cant frames will be cut out and installed once the square frames are all installed.  I also need to redo frame 2 since I totally missed that the bottom of the frame is not whole.  The pictures can explain it better than I can.
 
So without further ado, here are the pictures as she sits now.  As always, any and all comments are welcome.

Ejector seats done and installed in the cockpit tub.  Thanks to Craig for blazing the trail in posts #47-#68, there appears to be subtle difference between the kit part and the 3D printed aftermarket part, but given how much they will be visible once enclosed in the fuselage, only we will know!
 
I decided to loop the long blue straps at the base of the seat and turn them into "leg garters" / "ankle restraints" as discussed in the tread when Craig was adding his.  Finished off with a coat of flat varnish to hide my C-A. glue seepages in places from under the straps!   Time to glue together the front section and get on with the rest of the fuselage, which looking at it won't take long.
 
Thanks for the likes and popping by. 😁

I'm settled on scheme B - XV162 as it looked with 801 Naval Air Squadron on HMS Hermes 1969.
 
Made a start at last, life getting in the way means I've missed this party somewhat, so won't bore people with a "clone" of Craig's great build.  I'll just show the main stages and anything slightly different I might be doing.  First thing I have noticed is there a quite a few ejector pin marks to sort out, I'm not going to go mad with them as most are not going to be visible when finished, just want to make sure.  Also the nose cone weight was interesting, not seen a container like this before, I filled with lead shot.  I have also scraped off the raised instrument details for the P.E. set.

Interesting, I see it's got the buddy to buddy refueling pod on.

Blackburn Buccaneer S.2D No. 809 Naval Air Squadron, HMS Ark Royal, August 1978
Time for me to put a bow on it and call this one done, finished.
Airfix has produced a very nice kit of a subject covered once before in 1:48 scale by Airfix but not nearly as nicely done in this new release. Light years better than the old mold. It's been a lot of fun and I am looking forward to a RAF Desert Storm edition as it appears they intend to release one later on from what I see on the sprues of this kit.
Looking forward also to Andrew's build. Thanks for following along and for all the comments, likes, and helpful information that was shared.

Apologies, might have caused some confusion here.
The chap in the video is Ian Pringle, who is still alive and kicking and has now become an author Ian Pringle
He used to own a Buc that was managed by Thunder City
Mike Beachy Head was the owner of Thunder City and he passed away in 2017.
A company called Hangar 51 has bought the Buccs and has moved them by road from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth for restoration. (Dec 2022 and Jan 2023)

Interesting, I see it's got the buddy to buddy refueling pod on.