GrantGoodale

The main lesson I learned was from a mistake I made.  I attached the planking right to a point at the bow of the little boat, which made it difficult to cut back and sit flat and flush against the keel. 

Having no experience with these models, I decided to build the launch boat before proceeding with any decking/planking on the main boat, as a "safe" introduction to many of the techniques I would be using throughout the build. This ended up being a positive experience and gave me some really good fundamental tips that paid dividends on the big boat.

First thing I did, with this being a very big model, was get a place I could do the build and have it be safe and out of the way for the many months it will be in progress. 

as seen earlier,  the boom winch was finally cemented in place.   during the last couple of days,  I did a little here,  and something stupid over there.......it would have been pointless to follow what I was doing.  when you hear the phrase 'rhyme or reason'.......think of me     they did!     wait though..........usually there's the word 'no' in front of it.   oh bother!
 
anyway........I mentioned shrouds.  the fish box changed this thought a little,  but I'm still doing them........just a bit differently. 
 
for the Half Moon,   I got these dead eye collars {can't think of the name of them},  to make life a bit easy.   I got quite a few.....I'm sure the build won't miss them.
 

 
they were loaded with a dead eye,  assembled,  and cemented in place.......I corrected the port side,  being off on the location of the dead eyes.   I also cemented some single blocks to the deck.
 

 
finally.......after all this time,  the mast was cemented in place.   no more pull'in it out for some ungodly reason  
 

 
I had added a couple of cleats,  and a few more blocks to it.  then the rigging began { I hope you can see it.....I tried to take user friendly pictures}.  the center most blocks were rigged,  even added a couple of single blocks to the hold, and rigged it to open and close.  {not really,  but you get the picture....nudge,  nudge,  wink,  wink}
 

 
where to terminate them was a puzzle........no belaying pins,  so a fife rail of sorts was out {I wasn't going to use pieces of rod or anything silly}.   I decided to terminate them at the winch drum.
 

 
then I began with the booms......rigging the lifts.  something weird about this one...I'll have to check it out.   I wondered what mechanism would be used to swing the boom in and out.  with the net affixed on the boom,  there will not be enough weight to keep the pulley assembly taught.   I will add a set of lines that will not only do that,  but give the impression that they perform this task.
 

 

 
turned around,  the starboard side will be done now.   I've only terminated the aft line on the port side.  the fore line will be done after the shrouds are rigged.   there will be some standing rigging for the bow too.......I haven't done it yet.
 
this pulley assembly came out right.......this is the way it should look.
 

 
the aft line is terminated at a cleat on the side of the gallow.   the fore line will be terminated at a cleat on the fore gallow.  
    this is done on both sides.  
 

 
there are some small lights that be located on those three pedestals above the top.   I still have a little bit of the window maker,  so I could fill in the lenses.   when they dry,  they will be clear.........I may try and get some yellow paint inside to color the window maker.   when I do the Nav lights,  they will either be done the same way,  or I will used the red and green plastic inserts that come with them.
 

 
the cleats for the 'swing lines' are located on the sides of the gallows..........here they are fore and aft.
 

 

 
the layout is almost to the point,  where I can cement in the fish box and the conveyors.   this will pretty much finish off the mid ship,  and I can move on to the helm and aft.   I did have one mishap though........I broke a blade off the prop.   I glued it,  but it came off again........so now I've removed the prop and cemented it again.  hopefully I did a better job this time,  and I can put it back on.   once the mid ship is done,  I'm hoping for a quick finish,  and I can move on to another victim.......errrrrrr,  I mean project  
 
 

Next nomination for most complicated i the ships crane. The tower was removed before the final mission so it is a bit easier.
 

 
As you can see there is one fret and a few bits of brass rod.
 

 
Comes together quite nicely, but I I had to do it again, I would use the individual wheels and rig it later as it would go together a lot easier.
 
I have placed it in an elevated position as I ant to sling a float plane from it eventually.

a small step forward.....but this is big.   the boom winch is in place!   I added the brake levers and cemented it in place.....no more parts will be added to it.   the levers are actually parts that I did not use for the AmericA build........they are the light boxes.   painted up and affixed to the winch,  they serve the purpose well enough.   you may not readily see them in the picture.......I took it this morning before the camera decided that it needed to be fed {charged up}.
 

 
the holes for the shrouds are already drilled......eye bolts dry fitted at the moment.  I need to adjust the port side though, since I found that the gallow for the port side is a bit forward than the starboard side.  I'm sure there will be more parts added,  before this is said and done  
 
more to come  
 
 

I don't want to finish sanding the hull too soon because I love the feel of the hull - the smooth curves and hollows!
 
Doug

Hi again folks; hope you all had a happy and safe festive season.
 
I have made a start on the two remaining boats to complete my build; the yawl and the skiff.  I am doing these part-time between the yard chores and HMCSS Victoria.
 
First, I would like to thanks DaveRow who has kindly designed the laser templates and cut the boat templates for his build but provided me with a spare set; many thanks Dave.  These are great, and make assembly a lot easier.  The template is 0.6mm thick so the keel is a lamination of 4 layers which creates a natural rabbet.  The rudder and transom piece are 2 x lamination but the remainder of the pieces will be single.  I don't think I would have achieved this level of detail without the template.  i will stage a ruler in my next set of shots to give a better idea of scale.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
     

Thanks for stopping by. I know it has been a while since I posted an update. Life just keeps getting in the way. Well I finished adding the side frames to the 1899 hull and planked the bottom. The next step is to cut the side planks down to where they need to be. Then I will start working on the 1942 hull to get it caught up with the 1899 hull.


I started out gluing on e plank at a time. Half way though the planking I started gluing multiple planks together. This made it easier to bend the planks to the chin log. This created a smoother planking.
 

The finished planking.



 
With winter here, I am hoping to spend more time in the shipyard.
 
Catch Yall Later,

It is hard to believe that it has been over a month since my last update.  Work on the quarter deck beams has been progressing very slowly but I hope to have them completed within the week.   The pictures were taken before any finish sanding.
 

 

 

 

 
 

Wishing everyone a Happy New Year, and thanks for all the support and positive feedback on this project so far.
 
I have been working away at filling the paint damage with just paint I did not want to use any different types of material other than the enamel paints over the wood and restored metal.
 
A couple of shots to show this progress.
 

 
Just a small bit left on the black where the almost 1/8th inch deepest gouge was. Once it is filled I will paint over the repaired area and then polish the surface to bring it to the same level of finish as the rest of the black on the side, to blend in the edges.
 
Michael

some more pictures
 
cranes : the first one is with the cranemast as it comes  with the kit, second pic with PE-mast; don't know yet wich one to choose

 

 
funnel n° 3, with the piping, not accuratly but i can live with that

 
the inside of the hull will be lighted with a LED-strip, brightness can be adjusted trough a remote control

 

 
deckplanking

 

 
Eric

I am currently buidling the TITANIC, Mantua scale 1:200. This model will be completed with PE-parts, such as windows, railings, ladders and more little stuff. Much information comes from the Titanic Research and Modelling Association,the book " RMS Titanic, a modelmaker's manual" by Peter Davies-Garner and CAD-drawings by Robert Hahn.
 
Here some pictures of what has been done so far :
 
fixing the frames and start with planking the hull :

 

 

 
funnels with the rivet-pattern :

 
lifeboats with PE-davits
 

 

 
Eric

Thank you John.
 
Immediately in front of the deckhouse is a square box which on the plans is referred to as the "gas box". On top of the gas box are stowed 3 demountable gratings. The use of the gratings isn't immediately apparent but I wonder if they form part of the companionway.
 
I find that small boxlike features are most easily formed on the mill and this is the approach I took with the gas box. By slotting out and inserting the frame features i can get a reasonable representation of the panelling.
 



 
The grating construction followed the fairly standard approach taken on other MSW builds. In this instance the gratings are small and I decided that hole sizes of .040" square were as small as I could go and still maintain definition. This scales somewhat larger than on the original.
 
Planks were thickness sanded to .080" before being slotted .040" deep by .040" wide. They were then glued in a sandwich using PVA. Finally .060 wide gratings were sliced from the sandwich - 3 in total.
 






 
 
 
 

Been busy working on the cabin layouts. The main problem that I have now is that to build the cabins the deck layouts do not align properly. So, now I get to redesign the decks to work the way they should. I guess when you are not planning on showing the inside, it doesn't matter if they physically line up. Maybe I am making this harder than it has to be but, I want it to make sense and look right.
 
So, here is a picture with the latest look. Basically the two horizontal strips that are clamped to the frames are where the decks should be. You can see where the false decks are designed. It really isn't bad until you get to the stern at which point nothing lines up right. I can adjust the gun ports on the false decks and shift the dummy blocks for the canon barrels for the new alignment easily enough. The upper decks and quarter decks will be a different challenge. I have a couple ideas on how to do it. More to come! 

Fabrication of two new longitudinal bridge has been completed. I used the portion of the original bridge which had the correctly spaced bulkhead notches to layout the new bridge template, I then taped the two bridge strips together and notched them on my table saw, cutting just short of the required depth, figuring it was better to cut too little than try for exactness on a table saw. (My carpenter Dad once said he was going to get me a board stretcher for Christmas but I guess he forgot to buy one. Or something.)  I hand filed the notches to the correct depth and rounded off the inside/lower corners of the strip so it would rotate easily into position.  The next thing is to dry fit and check the position of each bulkhead with a square to be sure each is 90-degrees vertical from the kneel and equidistant from each other on both sides. I'll pin them in place with temporary strips and once everything checks out (including re-reading all instructions and plans ) I'll glue everything into permanent position.
 
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A little update...
 
the aft vents are tuned to the right lengths and painted. The aft mast is is rigged, the stays and backstays set and the ratlines are mounted to the shrouds.
Some additional lifesaver rings are assembled
 
Hope you are all had a nice Christmas time and Santa has delivered the one or other little surprize.....
 
Nils
 

 
about 2/3 of the boatsdeck are on (without boats)
 
 

 
Aft mast rigging....
 
 

 
the vents are shortened and painted
 
 

 
 

 
have to continue with the forward boatsdeck, right up top the command bridge area

Hi Folks,
 
The first of the challenges I chose to undertake was the
rudder – to replicate the kit’s original piece, on the left, using the Victory
oak.
 

 
One side was cleaned up, the thickness then cut narrowly
oversize with a band saw, and then the timber was sanded down to its final
thickness of 5mm using the jig. The aroma of old oak (with a hint of tar?)
added to the pleasure of the task.
 

 

It was going to be a tight fit!
 

After transferring the outline the shaping was done using a
powered fretsaw and needle files.
 

Job done! The finished rudder is mostly copper clad with the
top section painted black – I’ll probably leave some of this upper area
unpainted and just apply matt varnish; but that’s way off in the future….

Next – the copper plates.
 
Cheers,
 
Graham

Hello everyone!
This is my first build log for ship-model building, The Zeehaen, a 17th century dutch merchant ship.
The primary references is 17th CENTURY DUTCH MERCHANT SHIPS(by Ab Hoving) and Shipbuilding in the Dutch Golden Age. The reason for choosing zeehaen is it seems simple but a bit special, and the carving patterns are relatively simple for me to practice. Cor Emke's plans are not suitable for a full frame ship model, but I like some challenging making, although I find I think too simple at first- my 3D building process seemed to hit a brick wall, I can't get any reliable reference of internal structure on the stem and stern. so I finally changed my mind and took Mike Y's advice- start my log while the project is not yet completed. Perhaps someone can provide more accurate internal structural drawings to correct my mistakes, in addition, I also make a presentation of my making methods- Almost all parts were designed by 2D/3D and output to CNC processing.
 
This is current progress








 
The frames from k#-35# using 2D cutting



 
Assembly process







 
Keel and some special-shaped parts using CNC double-sided milling processing
The "V slot" was  processed directly by CNC.





 




 
even so tiny parts were processed by CNC


 








 
The Building jig
This kind of jig is recommended by my friend, wangshuoliurui,as a senior shipmodel builder in china. I think this kind of jig is more suitable for those hull in 17th Century.



 
Some experiments of figurehead or figurine carving patterns were designed by 3d and processed by multi-axial CNC .


 
3Dmodel was build by rhino, This requires accurate size.

 
Convert the model into polygon format
output to zbrush and sculpt it by virtual technology

 
CNC programming and machining.

 
 
 
 
 

Completion off the Fenders
 

 
Working on the stern
 

I wager everyone that's built an extended frame model has had this little joke creep into their head.

Guess this time I'll start at the beginning.  I'll spare the group the open box pictures.  I did inventory everything in there.  It's all there.  The wood strips, plywood etc. look like pretty good quality.  The laser cut parts are nice and clean - although I've learned here not to trust them.  I'll be looking at the member logs of the same kit (Art. 789) for trouble spots.
Like a lot of other kits, the blocks are terrible.  The rope set and deadeyes are not too bad, but I'll replace them all with Syren model Co.'s materials.
Right out of the box the keel is warped - actually just bowed.  I'll probably do inter-bulkhead spacer blocks, so I figure I can straighten it at that step.
As expected the cast parts will need a lot of cleanup, and the stanchions are flat etched brass, so I'll have to replace them:
 

 
This thing is big!!  I have no idea what I'll do with it when it's done, but I figure I have years to worry about that.
 


 
Wish me luck!
 
- Tim

The gangways between the quarterdeck and forecastle along with the ladders and stairs are completed.
 
Next up is the maindeck anchor bits and quarterdeck breast rail. The breast rail will be a challenge with all of the curved railings. The railings could be made with a more squared off look and would still be fine, but I am going to attempt to include the decorative curves. 
 
Vince P. 

I'm still in the process of continuing here.......but if I may digress for a moment.  I mentioned this earlier,  that I would show you fine folks how I made buoys.......for the Nordkap,  Cux 87....and I think I did it for the Mary Ann {I did so many thing on that build}.   I went looking through the picture files for these builds.......boy!  did I take crappy pictures back then!   I guess the Sony camera I had wasn't so cutting edge after all      
 
it all starts at the craft store........in the bead dept.   you want to pick the smallest ones you can find.   I chose these barrel shaped beads......one,  they are made of metal,  two,  they come apart,  so they are easier to paint,  and three,  because they were decorative...added detail can be a good thing.   round ones can be used as well.....an eyelet on one end and a tiny shaft on the other,  painted up,  would make a dandy buoy.   I removed the eyelet from one end of the bead and took them apart to cement in a 7 mm brad in the empty hole.   the existing eyelet can be adjusted to look better and fit tighter.
 

 

 
from here,  the halves can be painted to taste.   I chose red and white for the Nordkap,  and yellow and white for the Cux 87.       I just took a look at the Mary Ann........I used some left over red and white ones..I made too many for 'ole Nordie.   you can place them among some rope coils......
 

 

 

 
......or they can be strung along any place that needs a little extra pizzazz
 
 
 
I also used some longer slender beads for the buoy markers in the Andrea Gail build.   craft stores have a lot to offer,  so when you go......put your imagination in high gear     I also saw this picture of the Nordkap.......I was so green when I built this model,  but I learned to 'bash' and 'scratch' from the very beginning.   it wasn't till I found MSW,  that I found out how to expand it.   while some were hanging maps and charts..........
 

 
the logs on these two vessels have long since been lost to the big crash.  at one time,  I had a thought to redo the Nordkap build.  for the folks just starting this wonderful medium,   this build would be interesting to them.   I was new to the medium myself.......I made plenty of mistakes,  but I think the solutions I came up with would be helpful to them.
 
I was on such a roll........gotta get back to this build.   I hope to have an update soon.......thanks to all those who are looking in.  I appreciate it       Merry Christmas!

First step: read up on ship building techniques, to learn new things and to remember lessons learned in the past but now hazy. I found Ship Modeling from Stem to Stern by Milton Roth and especially Ship Modeling Simplified by Frank Mastini to be very useful, they are both easy to read, follow, and understand.
 
Second step: Build a straight, flat jig to support the hull.  I used some red oak I had on hand in my woodworking shop.
 
Third step: Free the laser cut keel and frames from their boards. The keel, stem and stern pieces had to be spliced together. The factory cuts are correctly proportioned. However...
 
Fourth step: the rig slots on the reinforcing bridges are not correctly located so I am fabricating new ones from 1/4" (6 mm) birch plywood. Thankfully I have a pretty complete woodworking shop to handle situations like this.