GrantGoodale

A small update using my wife's tablet. All my I Pad wants to give me is a black screen. As you can see I've added the black and red paint. I had been putting it off for somereason, but not sure why. Now I'm glad that I have gotten this small part over with. I have also added some inner planking to the bulworks. The instructions did not show this being done but it looked like something I might like. Still a few other trial and error ideas in my head that may also be done. One thing I am going to do is listen to what NBROOK said on his build about how much gets tied off to the rails and sinking the pillars deeper. I've got an idea for that,now just to try it and see if it works. Till later. Michael

Thanks guys!
 
The spear....
 
Oh dear, oh dear...well, let's say the supplied spears aren't impressive.
 
I used 0,5 and 0,7 mm brass sliding tube to make a new one.
0,5 mm for the shaft and 0,7 used for the counterweight spike (nicknamed: salamander crusher), the leather grip and the spear-head.
 
 
Removed the base and made a new thinner one, cleaned up the flash and a white basecoat.
 
Ready for some paint 
 
Robin

Today I worked from 9 until 7, so I didn't had much shipyard time, but....

 
No skin left on the tip of my index finger...time to do something else tomorrow....
 
The Caesar Miniatures 1:72 scale hoplites....
Again...only 1 or 2 needed...and perhaps a single shield on the railing somewhere behind one of the steering oars.
Not even sure I'll fix them to the deck....to be decided.
 
The quality is pretty good. Fairly hard plastic (that's a good thing) and minimal flash. Good details and historical correct. The seperate shields are neat, but I'll replace the spears with scratch build ones. I'll remove the bases and glue them on very thin acetate sheet. When one goes on the deck...I'll remove the base and pin it.
 
So...tomorrow I'll take a closer look and see what I can do with them. 
 
More soon,
 
Robin
 
 

pfff! i really want that disk sander. Done these "hecho a mano"...my hand hurts now. 
 
More soon,
 
Robin

Update
 
some of the actual ships upper structures are from planked wood and I would like to resemble this as well...., Thats why some aft deck housings and later on also the housings / structures around the forward comand bridge on upper levels are obviosly wooden planked.
In order to resemble the wooden planking, I made some little test pieces of 3 mm wood stripes with pencil caulked edges. Whereby the nutwood stripes come out too dark, the test piece with beech planking and a light cherry stain and varnish on it comes near to mahagony with a light silky appeal, and builds a good contrast to the brass window frames
 
Put on the aft hatch with two compagnionway hatch-type-entrees, and the large doublestory light before the aft deck winches......
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

I've been working on the Orlop deck framework.  Here are a couple of picks of the carlings and ledges that will be exposed after the deck is planked.  I am hoping they will serve a dual purpose, first to show some of the construction and second to allow more light down into the hold to see some of the details. The decks above will also have some planking removed but to what degree I don't know yet.  I am making this up as I go along.   Couldn't seem to get the pics orientated vertically this time so you will have to turn your monitor on its side. 
Tom

Its a matter of access Cog, I don't want t lose detail under paint. I did up the gun tubs that go on top of the main guns. The Tamiya piece is 1 piece. The pontos is 14pieces.

Cheers, Albert, thank you.
 
 
Pawel

Here's the first part of this shipments build log.
I'm afraid this part is not very exciting but...
 
The dummy barrel supports continued:
 

 

 
Next decks dummy barrel support:
Also the reinforcements for the former parts act as... well, support for various other parts.
 

 
Deck beams etc for the stern frames:
 

 
Could be deck supports at the bow:
 

 
More to come tomorrow and I think that part will be a bit more interesting...
So stay tuned...

Received my replacement bow filler blocks yesterday
As you can see the replacements are quite a bit bigger than the supplied ones

 
Fitted them in place and shape the bluff bow

Well I worked on the GR a bit today..finished laying up a port anchor underneath the cathead.  I added the forward passageway and the forward hold cover.
 
Even at this scale the parts are pretty small.
 
Rob

Ok...wood and saw parts are on the truck for delivery....tracking is a wonderful thing.
 
Came into work a bit early to start the pattern making process....yes I have been slacking, but I have been cleaning up the shipyard so building will be more efficient.
 
Onward McDuff,
 
Pamela

Hi Carl,
 
I didn't thin down the looms.
 
I made the shafts longer and slightly less bulky and shortened the looms.
This is more historical (see Olympias oar plan) and I think it looks better.
 
I abandoned the idea to make batches of 5. Instead I go full swing oar mass production
 
58 needed, 50+8 spares (spares attached to the centre deck railing), so it will become boring to do small batches.
 
I cut to size and marked all and turned 1/3 of what I need yesterday.
It will take me a week or so to finish the whole bunch, but better this way I think.
 
They're made of alder wood....turns very nicely.
 
More in a week,
 
Robin

I decided to make my own deadeyes. And here is the result.

Hello everybody -- Since it's Halloween, I have to present my version of the Olde Play,  Bats in the Belfry.  (Or maybe just bad joke )
 
The lovely Georgian Belfry did catch my fancy after all.  I began with the stanchions, based fundamentally on those shown in FFM. 
 
                                           
The base is no doubt too wide (as will be proved below).  But this is what I'm going with.
 
Next I devised the curved canopy, simply by starting with some thick stock, measuring to the center, then two points equidistant out from there, and cut out the curved shape.
 
                                            
 
To cut the molding in the canopy, I first used my mill to cut the lower panels, in a graduated series.  That gave me the basic pattern which I could sand lightly to round over the edges.  For the curved molding, I simply set my thumbnail against the canopy's curve, found they matched pretty well, and then traced the outline of the nail onto the wood, and lightly, ever so lightly began scraping with the backside of an exacto blade.  For the headstock, I followed the same strategy as the belfry, but in simpler, stockier form.  I used blackened card for the iron straps, and the kit's bell.  Here's the finished belfry:
 
                                           
Actually, this is Belfry 3.0, the first few tries finding a better home in the scrap pile -- but I'm discreetly drawing a veil over those details.
 
Now the spar racks teased me a bit.  I couldn't really work out a solid basis for any dimensions.  The kit plans don't show the rack, but simply an inner railing.  What I came up with is based on the overall length of the breast railing/belfry/spar rack configuration, allowing room for a scaled seaman to pass by (in the fuzzy video of Master and Commander that runs through my head). 
 
In short, I worked out these two:
 
                                            
 
After a bit of consideration, and the simple test of laying a spar in the rack to see how it fit, I found that they needed some filing and refining.
 
Then came the slow process of the rail.  The stanchions were easy, as I cut the timberheads with the exacto, and the sheaves with the mill.  The railings required careful measuring for the placement of the stanchions, cutting the mortises for the stanchions, then scraping the molding on the edges.  I followed the advice of FFM of gluing a thin (molded) strip along one edge to close in the stanchions, and it worked brilliantly.  Until I found that I needed to file the ends off the rails a bit since they overlapped the spar rack, at which point the ends fractured at the out corner of the mortise.  Repeatedly.   Finally, I just took the bit that had broken off and glued it onto the stanchion as it stood in the rail:
 
                                             
If you look more closely than politeness dictates, you'll notice the gobs of glue on the port stanchions.  And those were there until they became solid enough to scrape away.
 
I don't know what's next.  Work is, well, work, and lots of it.  As the weather cools, I find being outside very desirable, so my modelling time is even shorter than before.  But Fly still calls to me.
 
Meanwhile, following Peter (aka Flyer) and BE's gestures of presenting lovely views from their different treks, I thought I might offer a view from my study window:
 
                                             
 
It ain't the Lake District, it ain't Iceland, but it's what the Southern Plains has to offer on a mild day.
 
Cheers,
 
Martin
 
 

Update,
 
aft deck housing roof (planked deck) with docking bridge and railing. Access will be from aft over a stairway
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Hi - small update. Rudder attached with the gudgeons and pintles although the top gudgeon is not there as stern counter (part 146 which on the parts list says 'not in use'?) is in the way. Maybe not enough inward curve on the counter part although it is fixed properly to stern bulkheads.
 
 
 

 
 
Thanks
 

Hola:
 
Following with the deck furniture I already make the After cabin Trunk:
 

 
the more challenging part was the making of the windows hinges
 

 
and the Foc´SL  hatch:
 

 
and here in its provisional position on deck:
 

 
Saludos, Karl
 
 

Druxey,
THANKS for pointing out the wiggle.  I laid a batten across the clamp and found it a bit low at frames 2 and three.  Back to the ISO.  Thank goodness for a camera lens and a fresh set of eyes!
 
I worked on the clamps for the gear deck.  I need 14.5" clearance below the lowest bottom of the deck beams for the gear, bearings and floor of the gear deck.  Frame #5 is the lowest in the area of the gear.  A 15" pattern block was held under a temporary deck beam at Fr. #5 to establish the top of the gear deck  beam (bottom of the floor) at this place.  The gear has to be parallel to the top of the keelson (not the main deck).  A measuring stick was held at frame #5 (see first picture)  and the height from the building board was marked and then transferred to the other side and to both sides of frame #12 (the farthest extent of the gears).  Putting the top of the gear deck clamps on these marks assures it is parallel to the keelson.   The clamp was held in place on both sides, temporary beams laid across the and a wide, flat piece (it's the bottom of the water tank) was laid over the beams to check level and flat.  Then the temp. floor and beams were removed.   Before the clamp was glued in place, the upper edge was eased in a rolling manner from front to back so the beams would rest on a flat surface, not just the corner of the edge.  I'll run a long sanding stick across the tops of the clamp (side to side) where the beams lay before final install.  Notice in the third photo how much difference (from level)  there is between the main deck clamp and gear deck clamp.  Now I'm sure the capstan axle will be perpendicular to the keelson.
 

Here are some pics.

Bob:
I do not think the stay passes through the firelead.
If you see a pic of the model attached you will see the stay block before the lead on the upper left corner of the picture.
Also as you can see there got to be plenty of other lines through the fairlead and none of them are black as the stay would be.

I may have come up with the answer to my fore topgallant stay problem (though not my poor putting).
 
A closer examination of plan 8 suggests the stay passes through the fairlead on the bowsprit. If so, this appears to be its only use shown in all the plans.
 

 
 
 
A belated thank you Wackowolf (how did you come up with that one? ) and Jason for your kind comments.

The bowsprit rigging has been quite frustrating. The detail such as it is, is spread over 5 plans. The dolphin striker, the martingale and the blocks are now installed on the jib boom.
 
Here is one of the plans. It shows 6 blocks on the jib boom - which makes it very crowded indeed as some of the later photos show. The plan shows the cap with four vacant eyelets. The lowest are apparently for the spritsail yards. There is no provision for fixing a second pair of bowsprit shrouds, though Arthur (aew) has used these eylets for both the yards and the shrouds. I will follow his lead.
 
This leaves the top vacant pair. One of the plans seems to show the fore top gallant stay going through one of them, ending in a pair of blocks, finally tied off to (I presume) one of the bow timberheads. In fact once the fore top gallant stay goes through one of the blocks on the end of the jib boom, its route to the timberhead is a mystery to me.
 

 
Anyway here is some progress. (The two brass nails here need a dab of paint.)
 

 
This photo of the jib boom is not the best, but it is quite a good shot of my drill.
 

 
Here are the six blocks. I don't know if they are ordered correctly as the plans anticipate mind-reading skills. It all looks rather crowded.
 

 

 
It looks a bit like a dog's breakfast, with blocks all over the place.  What appears to be residual PVA on some of the blocks doesn't show at all in the flesh.
 

 
If this log appears to be a whinge, you're right. You're dealing with a man who, just two hours ago, was coming to the 18th hole putting for birdy, and who promptly three-puts. It's almost Friday night -clearly alcohol is the only solution.

I'm cranking the steamroller back up. Marking the notches for the timber head and knight head is proving to be a little difficult. My deck alignment somewhat made the notches not quite align. The knight head looks to be too close to the stem. 
 
Edit- Comparing it to Brian's. I guess I'm close.
 
 http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8085-armed-virginia-sloop-by-gunthermt-finished-model-shipways-scale-148/page-4#entry246213

Pre-fixed bowsprit... I like it!