qwerty2008

Here is my serving machine. I am thinking of building a new one with a better gear ratio so I can serve more line faster. I have already served over 4 feet of line with it, the first three with a 1/1 gear ratio the last (plus a few shorter lengths and some seizings) with the current 2/1 gear ratio.

 
 
 
 
Lextin.

I took a few photos of how I made the blocks. I use a l method I see used pretty often here on MSW. I did make my own changes, for the larger blocks I used several layers of wood laminated together instead of a solid stick.




 
 
 
 
 
Lextin.

I have managed to get in a few hours of work on the Byzantium today. I made some blocks, now I have all 3 sizes. I also repainted the nameplate as it got covered up during paint touchups. But most importantly I have tied 112 clove hitches on the port side ratlines.




My box of fittings is filling up



 
 
 
 
Lextin.

I have managed to get in a few hours of work on the Byzantium today. I made some blocks, now I have all 3 sizes. I also repainted the nameplate as it got covered up during paint touchups. But most importantly I have tied 112 clove hitches on the port side ratlines.




My box of fittings is filling up



 
 
 
 
Lextin.

I use mostly Poplar dowels that I get at my local hardware store or craft store. I do sometimes make my own by ripping down strips of straight grained cherry on the bandsaw then making them round using a hand plane.
 
 
 
Lextin.

Hello,
 
now the cannons are fixed to the wall. That was hard work with all these small blocks and hooks. But the captain was very pleased and spend a brandy after work.
Tomorrow we have only left to tuck the ropes under the cannons and then, next week, comes my biggest problem, the wheels. 
 

 

 
Regards,
Siggi

Hello,
 
without much words, the knees are ready. It wasn't so bad as I first thought. Because I had not to dive so deep into the hull. From that point of view were the knees at the gun and upper gun deck the most worse things I had to do.  
 

 

 

 
The next thing to do is to install the cannons with all there tackle.  
 
Regards,
Siggi

Hello,
 
it is done, the last cannons are ready. Six at all. But before I could install them, I have to build all the knees for the deck beams and they are so tiny here 
 

 

 

 
Regards,
Siggi

Hello,
 
just to show you, that I'm not lazy here, the first pictures from the wheels. I worked after the method EdT used with his HMS Naiad, but modified some parts. Thank you EdT for this tutorial.
 
At first I cut the triangles and glued then together.  
 

 

 
The next step was the axel. The pentagon is loose on the axle, hold only with a peg.
 

 
Here is all turned round and the parted.
 

 
I cut the channels for the spokes, so that the drill bit would have a direction.
 

 
Here all is glued together and I drill the holes for the spokes. I drilled the holes, because I did't have such a nice machine like EdT
 

 
Here I turn the interior free. That is now the second drum I turned. The first one did't make this step
 

 
Here the temporary spokes are installed
 

 
and I could turn out the rest. This time all went very well.
 

 
The spokes here have a diameter of 1,8 mm. The next days I will turn the spokes and they shod go done to 1mm diameter. I hope I will not get crazy about this work. 
 

 
Regards,
Siggi

There is always a way to improve.
In order to make the band spacing more uniform I decided to use my earlier modification by installing two dial indicators on my mini lathe.
The picture below shows how the traverse head travel can be measured to the nearest 0.001 inch. -- I did not need to use the cross-head travel, so ignore the small dial indicator. It is perfectly safe where it is.

To cut the grooves, (after shaping the barrel form) I position the narrow cut-off bit just to the left of the end. That gives me a 'zero' and will be the first band towards the end of the barrel. I cut the first groove, back out and move the head to the left using the indicator for an accurate position for the next groove, etc.
In the case of these barrels I used a spacing of 0.090 inches.
The two barrels to the far left were my earlier attempt. The others, I think, are more uniform.

 
I need a few more of this size and then will make some more that are shorter and bulkier (like wine barrels). 
I do have a chart showing various sizes of barrels used in the olden days and will use that to 'comply'.

Finished up all the yard bracing, added the foot ropes and crane lines and cargo lifting hooks. For the benefit of novices that will follow building this I will share a couple of techniques used.
 
First in adding the lifting lines I found I had to add blocks to existing down lines. First I secured the lines with a little stretch to tighten the lines; then I added a touch of Gorilla Super Glue which is thicker and allowed the ability to position the blocks and tacky enough to hold onto the line. Once glue set then wrapped and seized in space.
 

 
I then added the foot ropes to the bowsprit and spanker boom. This required tying a series of knots on the line. First I did a test clove hitch on the ends to determine how much line needed to be able to use one line with the center area untreated with a mixture of 50/50 water and white glue. I then tied the knots for each side and only soaked the knots and one space at each end of the knot series. I allowed the glue mixture to set while weighted down overnight. I first tied the clove hitch to the end of the bowsprit and boom using the untreated center section; then tied the loose ends as needed and carefully formed the knotted areas to curves.

 

 

 
Next I added the cargo hooks and rigging. I formed the hooks using .020" brass rod and needle nose pliers around to hold the single block. Once cut from the rod I hammered the hook shape with a drift punch at a slight angle to allow for a taper to the hook shank. I then added solder to each side of the hooks to fill out the body of the hook.
 




 
I still do not have a good photo area so here are a few overview pictures of where I am at now with the above additions.
 




 
Next I will add the flag lines to each mast and then rig the anchors and down the road the hammock rails and stanchions.
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks all, will get back to working on the final details tomorrow.  I've been pretty busy this week since finishing the anchors and haven't done anything since.  Today was day one of sailing lessons, and I'm completely exhausted, so probably not a great time to work on the ship!

Dowels are generally a problem as a source for stock for masts and spars.  It is usually an accident for the grain to be straight.  When cut free, they will seek an equilibrium point over time and that can be a curved state.
 
A way to avoid this is to start with plank stock of a straight grained / closed pore species of wood and split the spar stock out along the natural grain.  The hope is that this will be the equilibrium position as Time and Environment act on the piece of wood.
 
The tool designed to do this is a froe.  A full sized froe is used to produce things like Cedar shakes.  There is a smaller version that I have been looking at, but do not own yet:
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/Product/156564/Bamboo-Froe-%28Take-Wari%29---Ikeuti.aspx
 
In most locations  a species of Acer (Maple) should be available locally from hardwood dealers.
White Pine (Sugar / Pattern makers)
Yellow Poplar
Beech or Birch

I use mostly Poplar dowels that I get at my local hardware store or craft store. I do sometimes make my own by ripping down strips of straight grained cherry on the bandsaw then making them round using a hand plane.
 
 
 
Lextin.

Boyd,
 
I gave up on dowels, and I'm only on my 2nd build!
 
A few problems with dowels - they have large grain, making them look poor unless you are planning to paint them, even if they are straight.  As you've observed, it's very difficult to get dowels that are straight.  On masts/yards that need a square or octagon shape, it's difficult to make that evenly out of a round stick.
 
For my AVS I ordered a 'masting set' from Crown Timberyard out of boxwood, and couldn't be happier with the result.  Making the masts/yards out of boxwood eliminated all of the above problems, and there are multiple ways to get your square-stock round for the masts/yards, from my system (a lathe) to Frank's system (check his Paragon build log here - http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10788-paragon-a-modified-mayflower-by-mahuna/).  He has a nice jig he used to help him turn square stock into his masting.  Look at post 70 on page 4 of his log.

I agree that both methods were used. until around 1825-30 when most decks were nibbed.  Here is an image of a 1770's cutter.  It is a contemporary model for sure.  The deck is clearly nibbed.   Both methods were used and its just a matter of picking which you prefer to model.   I prefer the curved planks with hooked and tapered scarfs over the straight and nibbed.  Although there was also curved and nibbed deck planking as well.  Like everything else....its a matter of personal preference.
 

 
Chuck

Yes I agree with that...Half of its original width at the butt end.  If it was thinner it would defeat the purpose of doing it that way.   
 
Primary sources are key including contemporary models.
 
Its like the outboard planking around the ports...
 
You rarely see it illustrated and talked about in books like Robert's or Mondfeld.   But the methods are shown on contemporary drafts and texts and building contracts....
 
Like this detail outboard of the planking on top of and below the ports...you will never find it in Monfeld  If you want raise the level of accuracy always try and get your hands on some primary sources.
 

It is strange that the waterline and wale positions are not on your plans, I built the AL Endeavour (a long time ago) and there was a plan showing the side view. Here is a photo of the original draught maybe you can judge from this where the wales and water line are. I think that its very important to get the position and curve of the wales correct as it determines the whole look of the ship.

Thanks all for your input. Based on your comments I removed the planks using a chisel and alcohol, sanded, and back to relaying the right planks!

I see pros and cons for both arguments.
 
On the one hand, the perfectionist in me would be a-ripping them planks up just as fast as I could ....
 
On the other, however, you say that one set of planks are 0.6mm (decking) and the other are 1.6mm (for hull planking). As you don't mention it, I can only assume that the width dimension is the same for both sets. Thus, as the difference could not possibly be seen on the completed build, and as you have done an excellent job of planking that area (nice tre-nails, by the way), my vote would be to leave it as it is !!
 
If you do decide to tear them up, then I strongly suggest, and can personally recommend, Isopropyl. You'll find it at any Bunnings and/or Masters store throughout the land of Oz.

As long as you don't put up a sign that says "Wrong size plank used", then who in the world will know that you did?
 
It looks good to me. By the time your finished the model, that size detail will be swallowed by the rest of the Ships details.
 
You can always put another sign up in front of the finished model that says "I like this size planking better".
 

It was thought that keeping the shot closer to the centerline would make for greater stability, so the bulwarks storage was probably earlier.  As bulwarks became planked up, which was the tendency, I wonder if they wouldn't have used racks there instead of chests.
And please, nobody mention brass monkeys.  That old tale has been exploded.

SCRAPBOOK EYES
 
There are eyes for scrap booking that are great for many uses.  I use them for portholes and any time that I need a circular flange.  They come in many sizes.  
 
In this example, I used two sizes of the eyes and a wooden dowel to make an anchor chain pipe.
 

 
Marc

And here's the cross-section stuff:
 

Here's the pics for my Triton Build.  First up was test build of one of the cannon done in 1:24th