qwerty2008

I have decided to bottle it after all   now that its painted it looks a lot better in the bottle.


I tried to make it more authentic by putting a rat in the hold..... the rat was too big

Tim, John, Sailor, Denis, Greg, bob, and Tom, thanks for your feed back on the change. and for the likes.
 
Regarding a place to sit I was thinking that something along the lines of this cockpit on Mascotte would be good. I notice that Olga alongside has a similar set up.
 
There is a seat across the aft end of it and for standing the walls are a little higher which I would think will support one a little better with the slightly higher walls and better for keeping water out.
 
My original thinking was to have a gasket under the edge of the top of the cockpit so that I could seal it. I am now thinking that if i rebuild it the same basic style as the one on Mascotte then I can fix it solidly to the hull with a lift out bottom to access the lines to the rudder control. But I can fit a clear lid into the top when I put it into the water.
 
The picture that shows the reshaped cockpit that I have already made shows the fact that it was a loose fit into the hull. This change will allow me to use narrower planks and fit to the curves in the deck better with a caulked seam around the joint between the cockpit and the deck which would also look better I think.
 
Michael

I got one from Harbor Freight and I found that it cuts through 1/2 plywood like a hot knife through butter. I absolutely love these saws.
 Nirvana it might interest you to know that Adam Savage uses a Japanese saw for allot of his personal projects too.
 
Lextin.

Since I couldn't work on my 1:48 scale Triton cross section as much as I would like I decided to make a smaller one in a bottle. I went mostly by memory for the design it is made mostly from card and balsa wood the cannons were turned from bamboo on my drill press all the coloring was done with redwood stain and black Rust-Oleum spray paint sprayed into a jar then thinned (probably a bit too much note the bleeding on one of the cannon carriages) with acetone. I made the model in pieces so that I could fit it threw the neck of the bottle then I assembled it inside the bottle it came out a little crooked but looks OK. I still need to put on some finishing touches on the outside of the bottle before I'm done it took less then two days to to get to this point.
 

Very cool and "off the wall" ;-)

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Lextin.

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I added a pin rail and stuns'l booms, unless I think of some final details I missed it is ready for bottling. If all goes well I will take alot of pictures and bottle it tomorrow.
 
Lextin.

I finished the rigging, I would like to add some more detail to the decks but if I add to much detail I wont be able to get it in the bottle without damaging it. I also made the cradle to hold it in place in the bottle.
 




 
Lextin.

Beautiful, simply beautiful.
 
Bob

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Lextin.

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Lextin.

Querty......... that is amazing.  The way you did that....... put it in piece by piece and glued it together.  This is completely different compared to a long and narrow boat.
Excellent work and a WOW factor.
Marc

A few progress pics, Robbyn you can see the planking looks great at the bow but is a real mess at the stern, that's the way the planks flow. Once all the long planks are in place the stern filler pieces will be fitted slowly but surely and it will look almost as good as the bow.
 
I am weighing her now and then and the frame was 900 gramms, at this stage she is 1.15Kg.
With masts and bowsprit she is 1.4Kg.
 
I am going to have to build lightness into her somewhere because I want as much weight in the keel as she can carry.
 

 

 

 

 

Amazing... just amazing!!
 
Michael

Well done, Lextin.  That's a wonderful model.  I find it amazing that you can figure out everything needed to get it not only in the bottle but to look great, also.

Dave, thanks for the tip regarding the hoop and pegs.
 
Bob, I am pleased that you are following along. I did look at the windings on a couple of very small motors today both were a larger Diameter than the telephone coil wire, which is .0028"
 
Early this morning while reaching for a piece of wire I caught the top of the mast and snapped about 1/4 inch off, so I had to make a new mast. I decided to use some of the Lilac so stripped off a 1/16 x 1/16th square of it, then filed it round in the new mini dowel filing jig.
 

 
next is a shot of the telephone coils
 

 
And a close up of the wire with the thread coating.
 

 
I needed to make a modification to the filing jig so that I could also use it as a drilling jig, to that end I added an adjustable saddle for the pin vice with an elevating screw to counteract the taper on the mast or other spars. there is also a second V groove for the initial shaping. for the shaping of the mast I made a couple of paddle sanding sticks so that the taper was even they are 400 and 600
 

 
Drilling the .008' holes was a bit nerve wracking, I pushed the mast down onto the v groove which stopped it from rotating while I drilled the hole with a watchmaking pivot drill in another pin vice.
 
the next picture shows the .0028 wire through the hole at the top of the new mast the diameter at the top is .030 which is a bit heavy but looks OK.
 

 
the next picture shows filing down the shoulder on the mast to fit the hole in the deck. I really like the way this new jig works.
 

 
The next **** shows the goosneck fixed into the mast the wire is 36 gauge wrapped around some .011 hard wire then closed up a little more with a couple of pairs of pliers.
 

 
the next two show the current state of the build, with the old mast being salvaged and being used as the bowsprit.  I am going to take a break from the micro it is hard on my nerves, and get back to the Bristol cutter for a bit.
 

 
 

 
Michael
 

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Lextin.

continued.

I finished bottling it, as promised lots of pictures.








 

Since I couldn't work on my 1:48 scale Triton cross section as much as I would like I decided to make a smaller one in a bottle. I went mostly by memory for the design it is made mostly from card and balsa wood the cannons were turned from bamboo on my drill press all the coloring was done with redwood stain and black Rust-Oleum spray paint sprayed into a jar then thinned (probably a bit too much note the bleeding on one of the cannon carriages) with acetone. I made the model in pieces so that I could fit it threw the neck of the bottle then I assembled it inside the bottle it came out a little crooked but looks OK. I still need to put on some finishing touches on the outside of the bottle before I'm done it took less then two days to to get to this point.
 

I did some more work on the rigging (the foot ropes are out of scale but I couldn't get them any smaller) the topmast shrouds are complete the lower shrouds will be attached to the hull and have long strings that will be threaded through a hole drilled in the top of the mast when I install the mast I will pull the strings to tighten up the shrouds.
 






 
Lextin.

I haven't got much work done around Turkeyday but I was able to make the lower gundeck cannons and the mast. The mast is made from a bamboo skewer the topmast and topgallant mast are made from bamboo toothpicks the yards are also toothpicks.
 






 
Lextin.

I finished the rigging, I would like to add some more detail to the decks but if I add to much detail I wont be able to get it in the bottle without damaging it. I also made the cradle to hold it in place in the bottle.
 




 
Lextin.