Chuck

Thanks guys...and Michael its just good to have you along for the ride. I would love to see one of your past builds made into a group project by the way. Maybe we can talk about it at some point and put something together. Anyway, progress continues. One piece frames are pretty straight forward. For the two piece frames, there is an etched line for reference on the top half that contains the top timbers. The floor is resting on top of it in the photo below. Note how thin the kerf is on the laser cutting. You can hardly see a difference between the lightly etched line. Compare it too the MS kit version....which is actually smaller so the kerf is just a sloppy mess. That is just a comparison of proper laser cutting vs. not so proper laser cutting. These two pieces must be assembled for 15 of the 20 frames. This can be done by just placing a straight edge or ruler on that line as shown below. Then apply some TitebondII to the top timbers only. Be careful not to get much glue near the cut lines that separate the center. Once dry it will make removing the center more difficult later. But dont skimp on the glue either. Use enough to ensure a good bond with the floor piece. Especially on the tips of the floor and top timbers. Add the floor and align with the straight edge along the etched reference. Once dry you are all done and can assemble the other two-piece frames. Easy peasy!!! I am moving along pretty good here and only have the last five frames to laser cut and assemble then its time to fair the hull. I will make a recommendation. Dont forget to use the tape to help reinforce the center before you start fairing. Also, only work on one frame at a time so you dont mix up the parts from one frame to another. Once you complete each frame, test its fit in the build board. I have made the slots for the two tabs on each frame very tight on purpose. More than likely you will need to sand the two tabs thinner for a good "press fit" This is important because you dont want the frames too loose so they fall out on their own. You dont want them too snug so they are difficult to remove. We will be removing the jig after the planking is completed. So the fit should be just right....if you cant easily remove the frame then its too tight. I would rather sand the two tabs thinner than try to make the slots wider. This for me is easier and takes just a few seconds. If you sand too much and the frame becomes too loose, that is no problem. Just add some blue painters tape to the two tabs to thicken them up so they fit really good. You can see that I had to do that with one frame so far. In addition...test the bottom of the frames for a similar fit in the notches of the keel. I do this as soon as I finish each frame. Here is what the model looks like today. Hopefully the frames will all be completed over the next few days. Then I will glue the keel into position permanently. I will describe the process when that time arrives. But if you want a sneak peak and plan on joining this group once it starts. I would also recommend that you read the monograph on building the barge. It describes the process as well. Just in case you cant wait. Here is a link... https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/royal-barge-kit.php .

I just gave you access so you should be good to go!!! Enjoy.

It is indeed. We are setting these groups up here specifically for just that reason....because many of you dont live close to a physical group of people in order to have one locally.

Some close up images of rigging details from the replica under sail......

I think I might have mentioned this somewhere but I will repeat here. There will be a starter package containing keel parts, frame parts and build board along with the plans. You scratch everything else. Estimate $100 Then there will be a full kit version no rigging materials...just the hull. Estimate $180ish but this could be way off because I m not close to knowing yet Lastly...a separate rigging/sail package with everything to add masts/sails to your model. Containing mast material, rope, blocks, whatever else including sail material. Estimate $45ish Thats it. Otherwise it gets to crazy. This should make it economically feasible for most folks who may only want the starter package and scratch everything else. Otherwise they can buy one of the other options. But I cant itemize it out into smaller packages because that would be insane to keep track of. Starter packages will only be available for those taking part in the MSW group project and bought through this site. Once I add it to my store....there will only be the full hull kit and rigging packages available.

Thanks The Queen Anne Barge kit uses pre spiled planks as well. Its not a big deal to make them. I basically spile and create the shape for the plank like I normally do on a scratch project. Once I am satisfied that my plank fits on my prototype I trace it and make a laser cut version. This laser cut version is then tested on the model. I will tweak it as needed and when I get it perfect, I glue it into position and move on to the next one. It takes a while but the results are very good.

Its not a physical group....to clarify....if you dont join this online group (similar to TRiton Group) then you must wait to buy them. But if you join the online group....LIke TRiton, which is just a group of build logs of the longboat all in the same area. The group we are referring to is just the online group put together here on MSW. Not a physical group in your geographical location.

I am shooting for September guys....

I have been speaking to Peter Rindlisbacher who is an artist and model maker. He is the builder and owner of the longboat replica in the photos I posted. He has already given me some great insight about the rig. He actually sails this thing and is very knowledgeable. I believe he is also going to be the dinner speaker this year at the conference. I have invited him to join our little group project as well. Here are some additional photos of his longboat replica.

Very nicely done.....almost time to start putting some skin on those bones!!!

Joe I will make probably six kits at a time because that is all I can really make with my capacity. I wont place them in my storefront until after everyone who has signed up for the group has one. My guess is around 15 or 20 people. But remember....no line cutting. If you sign up for the group you must start a build log. No short-cutting to get an early kit. As soon as most have a kit I will place it in my store for anyone to buy and enjoy. Unfortunately a 1/4" scale version is not going to happen. Just the 1/2" scale version.

It depends on the sheet actually.....but a few weeks. It doesnt ever entirely go away. It will stay yellowish as opposed to tan. The finish you use is important. Sanding sealer keeps it the lightest and less intense. Then wipe-on-poly makes it a bit deeper. Oil based finishes really bring out the deepest color. I have not tried any waxes however.

I have been talking with the other guys and they want to keep it at this scale also....So I will. Since the Barge is 1/2" scale it just makes more sense. My new wood guy said it wont be a problem to cut and thickness the cedar on wider sheets either which I was worried about. I need cedar sheets that are 5 1/2" wide to fit these these frames on. So I am good to go.

By the way....this is a big boat....16" longish. Is it too big? Should it be 3/8" scale instead. I cant do both. But this is the time to decide. If I get any further it will be too late and require too much redrafting. Maybe not....I will see what the fellas say when they see it in person Tuesday night at my club meeting. And getting back to the discussion about me having way too much on my plate to do this project. Let me fill you in on the timeline so far. My club met last month in my shop and we discussed a group project. It was decided that the long boat was the best subject. I was super busy working on making parts to restock. But a week ago I started drafting this from the new contemporary draft I had on file. Over the last week I spent only about 12 -15 hours drafting this model electronically and laser cutting the parts. I also built several prototype attempts as I tweaked those designs and also arrived finally at the image you see in my last post. Actually I am a little further along actually. But all included the project has only taken me about 12-15 hours thus far with most of that time being at my computer drafting. Maybe I have about 2-3 hours of actual build time. Thats it. This will be a very quick build....hopefully, if nothing comes up to ruin it.

I thought you would like Kurt.....remember to add it on your barge frames.

I hope this level of detail in the log will be good enough for the group build....please dont hesitate to ask any questions. Yes, I will also write something which will be available in PDF but it will pretty much just be this.....and whatever additions might come up during our conversations.

Continuing along.... For those familiar with this design concept from my Queen Anne Barge kit, you will recognize the two-piece build board. I have however, tried to make some improvements with each new project based on watching others build them. In this case, I have added some slots for bracing blocks. Two for the transom and two for the bow/stem to stabilize them while planking. These pieces can be seen below. But do NOT glue them into the slots. These will need to be removed at some point in the build. It will be easier to remove the boat after planking without these in position. They are a press fit. If they are too snug....sand them a bit thinner because remember you will be removing them after a few planking strakes are completed. So make sure they are loose enough for that. There are two types of frames on contemporary models like this and the barge. One piece frames and two piece frames. Th etwo piece frames have floors and top timbers. We will be doing the one piece frames first and there are 5 of them. Another tip I was given by an individual can be seen below. You can see thin strips of packaging tape along the inner cut line. I used heavy and sticky packaging tape. You can fold over the end to make a tab and place the tape so it spans across the seam. This will give it added (temporary) strength while fairing and planking. The tape is put on both sides. The tabs will make it easier to remove the tape before breaking the inside of each frame free when it comes time to do so. Then once this is finished you must test the frames in their slots on the build board. They will be very snug by design initially. You dont want these loose and falling out of the build board. But you dont want them too tight either. You want to be able to easily remove them at any time. The best way to achieve the best fit is to sand the two tabs that fit into each slot just a little at a time until they are the perfect thickness. You will know when they are good because they will be firmly seated and yet be somewhat easy to remove. Be careful not to break the small tabs that hold the frame centers in the frames. No need to clean any laser char. In addition, test the fit of the bottom of the frame so it fits the same in its notch on the keel. Not too tight and not too loose. The three single piece frames at the stern are shown below being test fit. and the two at the bow should be as well. Dont glue these into the build board. That would be a huge mistake. With this completed, lets test the keel assembly on the build board atop the frames. Carefully place the keel assembly into the stern half of the build board first. This is a bit tricky if you havent done it before but once you do it a couple of times you figure out the little nuances. Slip the stern post between the two braces first as you carefully guide the keel onto each frame. Dont push to hard in each notch of the keel. You have have tested and filed those so they slide into each notch easily but dont fall out because they are too loose. NOTE the two small additional braces waiting to be installed next. The two transom blocks in the slots can be moved forward or aft so you can get a good fit against the transom. Remember that they are not glued in. The slots for them are longer than needed so they can be adjusted to best advantage. But once in a good position, you can add the two smaller brace blocks. These can and should be glued onto the build board. Use a little glue and push them into position against the transom. But DONT glue them to the transom. Just glue them to the build board. These will stabilize the transom even more while planking. Also use the laser etched lines on the build board to help make sure the transom is straight and not askew. This method differs from the one I used on the barge kit but I think its an improvement. Time will tell. Then repeat the test fitting of the keel in the bow half of the build board. Do it the same way except there are no additional stabilizing blocks. These two will do the job and keep the stem from wandering while you add the first few strakes up there. How it all looks at this stage. You will be removing and testing the keel many times before its time to glue the keel in position for good. Now to do the two piece frames. I also want to point out to those interested....look at the laser char edges of the frames. You will see how they are not dark and black. Yellow Cedar is very forgiving thanks to the oil present. It doesnt effect the gluing either and I am using Titebond II for all my joints. The build board is just basswood and you can see how dark that gets when laser cutting. I find it very enjoyable to work in Cedar and removing the char is much easier in my opinion....as Cherry and Basswood burn like crazy.

This is 1/2" scale. I am slowly catching up with my inventory. In fact other than a few sizes of blocks everything is in good shape. I have 175 products now or SKU numbers. Three weeks ago I was either out of stock or nearly out of stock with 70 of them. But over the last three weeks I have been working like a dog and its now down to just ten items. Unfortunately these last ten will take a while.....they are mostly blocks which I purposely ignored working on so that I would be able do quickly attend to all of the other stuff. Now that the other stuff is good to go I am busy knocking off the blocks now. Aside from that....I am nearly finished working on the Stern Mini Kit for the admiralty workshop as well. That should be done this week. That will leave me with plenty of time to go back and forth between the Winnie and the longboat. The Pegasus Xsection will sit idle until this is completed because I think its important to get another group project going here and also in my local club. I anticipate this longboat will be a very quick project. It is NOT a very complex model to design or build at all. I have set a personal and probable deadline of September to get the longboat all finished up. Then I will get back to Pegasus. I have another update on this project coming today which will show you just how quickly this will come together. Chuck

Oh Jeez!!! Thats bad. Hopefully I wont get hit by a truck any time soon.

It also laser cuts like a dream Mark so if you can create the shape and laser cut it....it would be the way to go if its a complex curve. The beauty for Yellow Cedar in my opinion is that it takes very low power to cut through even 1/4" thick sheets. I set my cutter for low speed and lowest power to just cut through it so the kerf is the smallest I can get it. Because of the natural oils in the cedar it doesnt burn all that much so it works out great.

You can still start a build log and join the online group. It will be available to everyone however when I start cutting the first kits, they will be reserved for those in the group. I wont even list them on my site until everyone in the group project has received their kit or starter package.

You can almost tie planking strips into a knot. Its very very flexible. And really strong as well.

Not a problem...I am very busy doing research on the rig as we speak.. I have made contact with the builders and crew of an 18th century longboat replica out of Halifax. They are preparing a long journey in 2020 and I am discussing some details about their rig and how they developed it. I am sure they have it rigged fairly consistent with early practice although this replica is a bit later from 1770's. Contemporary drawing of rigged longboat....useful for number of reef points and panels circa 1760-70.

To better explain my dilemma... Here is a look at the cont model rudder. Its original. Here is the other cont model rigged. This is NOT the original rudder and was made as a restoration following the other model. This is the way it should be in actuality. Like my barge kit. Note the indent in the stern post which draws the rudder closer to the stern post. Its a very simple fix....but really does have a different look than the contemporary models. Should I just present the problem and allow the builder to choose which arrangement they want. By the way...that is the original rigging on that contemporary model. And the sheet and horse arrangement is 100% correct. So to change that would be to change it to something very wrong for this boat. A very different issue than the rudder hinge which is modeled that way as modelling convention that the contemporary builder used. The third possibility and probably the best one as it is less of a departure maybe. This is an original draft from around the same time that shows a way that I can keep the hull and stern post the same as the contemporary models but then change the shape of the rudder to have the indents instead. These are for the pintles and gudgeons and will also draw the rudder closer to the stern post. This would be my compromise if I decided to make the change and deviate from the contemporary models. I hope I fleshed out an example of one dilemma that I face among dozens on all my projects like this. Damned if you do...damned if you dont. So in the end as long as I explain the situation, you guys would know where I am coming from and can use any of the above to suit your fancy.

It depends....sometimes they are not errors. Like the rigging plan. In other instances they are not errors either....for example the rudder. Its just a modeling convention they used. You see this a lot in contemporary models. They used certain model conventions and I think they are just fine in most instances. The contemporary builder didnt do it wrong because he didnt know how to do it. He probably could have literally walked down the street and taken a look at the original. It makes for a model that is less sterile in my opinion, and to me has a different look.....artistic value. But others who want to "kitchen sink" a model with every last historically accurate detail even though you wouldnt commonly see them on contemporary models...it tends to make some projects very sterile and busy....clinical. I wrestle with this all the time. I ask myself all the time, if I change this or that to make it appeal to the purist of clinical naval architects among us...will the model I am building loose what I love so much about the contemporary model I use as inspiration. I hope that makes sense. My time in art school has trained me to look at things differently than say an engineer would. I know many many engineers who model and they love to insist on adding every doodad and detail just like it should be....That is awesome for them. But its not my cup of tea. We have hearty debates over it all the time. But who knows, maybe I will continue to match those beautiful models because they are works of art in my opinion...but talk about and create an alternative drawing or notation for folks that are more like my engineer friends....its just a bit clinical for me.