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Chuck

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Everything posted by Chuck

  1. I believe its just this famous photo......no copyright isues so its OK to post.
  2. They go above it to increase the thickness of that area. In fact best placed along the top edge of the frame. The direction of the grain being opposite in most cases to the frame piece. This gives it strength and will not be seen after the frame centers are removed and the inboard sheer strake is added. If you use a thin strip that is only 3/64" wide or 1/16" wide...you dont even have to remove them. Just leave them at the top of each frame after you remove the centers. They wont be seen at all. Notice them on the top of each frame below (the first two frames at the bow)....after fairing. The second photo shows the same area after the inboard sheer strake is added. They are completely concealed. Having said this..they can easily be shaved off with a sharp xacto blade if you insist on doing so before you finish planking. Once you have planked the exterior except for the last two sheer strakes, you can slice and shave them away down to the frame edge. But that is up to you.
  3. Even if you didnt remove it at all.....it wont be seen. There is an inboard sheer strake that is wide enough to completely cover these little strips. It wont be seen even if you leave them there. Try not to over think it!!!!! Also.....you will be thinning down the frames at the sheer so much that the frame will only be about 3/64" - 1/16" wide. See the photo.....I never removed the strengthening strips on the frames. Everything is just peachy!!!
  4. I have seen your affliction many many times before. Being in a hurry wont do you any favors. This is not a project that will take you much time so there is no need to race through it. In this scale and with this subject....any sloppy craftsmanship will stick out like a sore thumb. SLOOOOW and steady. Chuck
  5. Fill the gaps with elmers wood filler. Its almost an exact match to the color of the cedar. Especially after sanding and applying wipe on poly. Chuck
  6. I am sure it will look just fine. Try not to get discouraged. I am enjoying watching your progress... Chuck
  7. Thats pretty normal for shipping wood actually. Although the handling charge is crazy. It doesnt matter what the species. I am fortunate to have a local source for my Cedar and just drive to pick it up. I would recommend that you try and find such a source. You would be surprised by what your local lumberyards carry. In addition please keep calling different places.....you will find a place that doesnt rip you off on shipping. There are dozens of such suppliers. My local guy doesnt ship at all. He just supplies local builders. Its pick-up only. Chuck
  8. You can actually still use the first version. It doesnt matter a whole lot that it doesnt fit snug. The inboard side will be painted red. It will be fine. Chuck
  9. How goes progress on this beauty? 😊 You are doing such a great job on this Cheerful.
  10. Not if your careful. But i think that would be too much of the light wood visually speaking. At least for my tastes, but this is a very personal thing based on your own tastes.
  11. Ken the baseboard is a piece of MDF I think. Then it had a veneer glued to it. Lastly some quarter round molding was glued all around it and painted black. I have to measure it...but I think its just 4 x 12" before the quarter round was added. Mike made that for me and I will bring it on Tuesday. Chuck
  12. Look in Mays book and you will see an original draft of a longboat with a planking expansion. That is where I took my planking scheme from with a little adjustment to make it easier to plank in kit form. You should start a build log for this......this is a great scratch project to watch as it develops. Chuck
  13. Indeed she will be fully rigged.....first with no sails, because that is probably what most will do. Then I will rig it again with sails. VERSION TWO of the stand. In yellow cedar. I like this one better.
  14. Thanks guys.... Working on making a simple stand/cradle. This isnt a small model especially after its rigged so I want it to be sturdy. These will be added to the masting and rigging kit when its made available. Toying around with trying to lasercut them in plexi but as it stands now they will be cherry. I may also paint them black but wanted to see if they were less obtrusive the same color as my baseboard....not included. Chuck
  15. Thank You all for the orders and business!!! Enjoy the kit guys. And for a sneak peak into the exciting world of a one-man shop........the Syren sweat shop......longboat kit production in progress. Today's abysmally tedious, stick a fork in my eye excitement!!!! 😊
  16. Ok guys.....the next batch of ten kits is available. I know that they wont last very long. I apologize in advance for the wait but I am making them as fast as I can. The next batch of ten kits will be a few weeks in all probability as I wait for the next load of milled Cedar sheets and the holidays. I am still waiting on my order from the sawmill, then they are given to my wood guy to mill into sheets. Then I can start kit production on teh next batch. Happy Thanksgiving guys. Chuck
  17. You can use the laser char as a guide and when he char has been removed from each frame edge you are done.
  18. Doubt it.....there really isnt anything extraordinary about it. Its just a matter of being careful. But we will see.
  19. Looking excellent Rich!!!! Brind some 220 grit and 320 grit sandpaper to the meeting. We will do a little demo.
  20. Nobody has said you cant!!! To each is their own. Its just a matter of choosing what you prefer. When you get yours, you can drill straight through. Chuck
  21. I couldnt say....best to try them both both and select the one you like best. I have never used the water-based version.
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