Jump to content
MSW Spring Donation Drive

Chuck

Administrators
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    8,998

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Chuck

  1. Chuck
    Nicely done..... Do you have a build log for Cheerful? I didnt see one.
  2. Chuck
    Eventually you should sand it flush with the transom.....its looking really good. Dont forget to add that small rectangle of planking forward of the last wide plank.
  3. Chuck
    Wonderful work on both!!! I am sure the model will come out just as beautiful as your full size. It looks like you had the perfect day for sailing in that photo.
  4. Chuck
    Any progress on your model. You are doing a wonderful job on it. Looking forward to seeing an update.
  5. Chuck
    Just scroll up....if you voted you can see the results...on the top of this topic.
  6. Chuck
    I am not sure how either one of those machines work. But Druxey is correct. Those ropes are laid up too loosely. When referring to the tension, I would suggest increasing the amount of twists on the the three strands (or four) initially....this will build up more tension and energy. Then you will be able to twist all three or four strands together more (in the opposite direction) and it will keep the more tightly laid up state. There will be more opposing tensions created to keep the rope nice and tight. Its the opposing tensions that keep the rope from untwisting and also nice and tightly laid up. The rule to remember is....the more initial twists of the individual strands will allow you more twists in the opposite direction when you lay up the final rope. Here is a fresh .025 tan that I just finished making. You can see how much tighter it is laid up. Hope this helps. Chuck
  7. Chuck
    Keep in mind that you will see plenty of POF kits from Chinese companies like ZHL. Because these companies have been known to pirate and steal the hard work of other reputable ship model MFGs, they are banned from this forum. So please read up on our banned list of pirated MFGs and be aware that we do not allow them on our site or any person building them. If this is something that is as important to you as it is to MSW and the NRG and the ship model community at large, you may want to avoid any products from these companies as well. See here for the details
  8. Chuck
    Thanks I am going to omit those on my prototype...they are nearly invisible and I find it distracting but I have seen it done well on other models. Builders choice I suppose. Chuck
  9. Chuck
    Its a little yellower and less tan than boxwood but its supposed to mellow and darken with age and get more tanish. Time will tell. My wood guy just dropped off several hundred sheets so I am fully stocked should anyone want to give it a try. Unlike boxwood however it is very soft. About the same hardness as Basswood but without any of the issues that basswood has. The surface quality is excellent after sanding and finishing. The planking sample below was made using 1/4" wide planks ripped from cedar. The seams between each plank were darkened with a pencil on one edge only. It has two coats of wipe on poly and I made this sample about two or three weeks ago. You will see slightly darker grain running through the wood before you finish it. But once you apply the wipe on poly or sanding sealer....the darker grain doesnt change color but the lighter wood between it does and it makes the grain almost invisible because it darkens to the same color. Hope that makes sense....its hard to explain. The fluorescent lights in my shop make it tough to photograph but I am messing with the camera settings to try and match the real life color best I can. I dont want to misrepresent it as I really really like this stuff once I got used to the soft nature of it after using boxwood for so long. Chuck
  10. Chuck
    My laser cutter brand has improved this model several times over the last few years. They have made it so the wires coming from the power source are easy to connect to the tube now.....I will send you a pm with a link to a video. Its the only reason why I am changing the power source because the wires are a pain in the butt to connect to the tube. But now there is no soldering needed at all....or at least there wont be if I can run the new wiring. Chuck
  11. Chuck
    Thanks To finish the yellow cedar I sanded it with some 320 grit paper and applied a coat of wipe on poly. Here is what it looks like. I have also done a mock up of the planking in yellow cedar. My photography stinks but I think you can get a good sense of the grain structure and finish of the wood after applying the wipe on poly. Chuck
  12. Chuck
    Your ears must have been burning Druxey.....When permanently gluing the frames to the keel I thought the same thing and all of the top supports for each frame have already been adjusted for the kit. When folks buy the kit they will have the etched line as reference although technically speaking, once frame one is glued into position properly all the others follow suit after inserting the frame registration pieces in the notches. But it couldnt hurt to have them on all of the frame tops. I will instruct everyone to glue frame one in position before trying to tweak and create the port sills. Frame one can be used as an "anchor" of sorts when glued properly in position to ensure that all of the other frames are aligned while testing and tweaking the port sill pieces. At least it was very helpful for me doing it that way. Once all of the port sills are made and set aside the remaining six frames are glued in position permanently and the registration strips are added before the glue dries. That is going to be the actual sequence of events. Chuck
  13. Chuck
    Not a lot that you can see but plenty of stuff to move the project forward. I did however finish cutting/tweaking the notches for the port sills. This is tricky work and is probably the hardest part of the project. But if you go slow it will be fine. The laser etched notches for the sills are not as wide as they need to be. This was done on purpose because it will be inevitable that you will be tweaking these so the port framing is correct. In fact, to make this easier I used a template to mark the top and bottom of each sill for the ports and sweeps first so I knew where to start my tweaking. The process involves constant removal of the associated frames to make small tweaks and then installation and testing. When the port side was done, they pieces were labelled and then set aside. I repeated this process again on the other side. Then the frames were glued into position permanently and the two small frame spacers reinserted on top to register them again before the glue dried. Once the frames were set, I then glued the sills in permanently and faired the exterior of the first seven frames. It was helpful to make a support which can be seen under the frames. This protected the whole assembly while fairing the outboard of the frames. Then just for a test (I wont recommend this for other building the kit). I removed the inboard "Ear" tabs on the port side which held the frames together for the gunport. But before doing so I made sure the sills were well glued in position and not moving. I cut the tabs free and test faired the inboard frames on the port side. But it will be best to wait until after the outside planking and battens are added later to do this. This was just a test for me as I didnt want to move forward until I knew the concept worked......which it did. Chuck
  14. Chuck
    I agree....with regard to the laser cutter it is the alignment of the optics but also how clean they are. A dirty/scratched lens and mirrors will also hurt the overall effect. It is great that they have one though....very nice resource. I just ordered a bunch of parts for mine because I have been lucky over the last four years. Its only now showing signs of needing some TLC. I just ordered a new laser tube, lens and power supply among a few other things. $1700......but its well worth it. I am all thumbs with this electronic/electric wiring stuff though, so I am very nervous about doing the revamp. Should be running as good as new when its fixed up. But I have to look for someone who can assist me with it who knows their way around a machine like this. I have a few engineers and electronics guys in mind...but they dont know I just volunteered them for duty yet.
  15. Chuck
    No ...there will be no scribed or etched planks for me. There is nothing like planking with individual plans when its done with care. That is a shortcut that I will never take. Thanks Druxey!!!!
  16. Chuck
    You have to plan for that...there are no gaps. You need to strategically flip some pieces when being cut so the angles match almost perfectly. For the stem parts I was able to flip some parts so the angles are nice and tight. You can see that I built the stem in two sections so that after assembly I did tweak the long curved edge so the seam was nice and tight but the individual elements went together better than if I cut them and tweaked them by hand. I do this to all of the parts and for the life of me I dont know why all kit MFGs dont do this. Note how the letters on the center section of bulkheads are on the other side....that was flipped when cutting so the joint fit perfectly without any need to sand them at all. The parts of the stem with the X's on them were also flipped on my file when laser cutting them.
  17. Chuck
    No pre-sales unfortunately....I am feeling stressed out as it is. I want to wait until this hull is planked before I start selling starter kits. I havent worked out the details yet but let me tell you...there are a lot of bulkheads and they are big. In addition to those, the starter package will include laser cut keel and stem parts, whatever strip wood is needed to frame the gun ports and stern along with the stern frames. Of course the plans as well. Basically everything needed to complete the skeleton so you can begin planking. My guess is it will be in the neighborhood of $150 give or take....plus shipping.
  18. Chuck
    I can do that.....Thanks. Chuck
  19. Chuck
    Thanks...I still have to edit it. Its on the list of things to do. Below is a dry fit of the bulkheads and stern frames. All looks good to go for the next step. And just this one time only...I dragged out the old dusty and broken 3/16" scale version of the Winnie for a size comparison. They are lined up at the stern so you can see the difference. What a mess the old model is....full of dust and filthy as well as busted up a bit.
  20. Chuck
    Wonderful work....very nice. Just catching up with your progress.
  21. Chuck
    That will be a seperate mini kit because they are easy enough to make on your own for anyone who wants to do so. No sense in forcing people to spend for more than they intend to use. I like to give as many options as possible if it makes it more economical. I would also recommend that everyone buys or makes a set of these because they can be reused for all models at this stage of construction. Its worth the time to make them. Chuck
  22. Chuck
    Oh it wont be too long hopefully now that I dont have to wait until the entire project is completed and a book is published and printed. I can release parts of the project as I complete them much like I did for Cheerful. Hopefully the starter package will be released shortly after planking has begun. I have attached the first chapter to give you guys an idea of what the monograph will look like. I am more than happy to answer any questions or embellish any parts of the monograph should more detail be needed. But this will at least give you guys an idea of what I am shooting for. I also wanted to mention again that I have many images of the contemporary model that I will be sharing along the way which I am sure no one has seen yet. Here is one showing the headrails and cheeks....I am getting really excited again to get into the thick of building this model. Chapterone.pdf Chuck
  23. Chuck
    no that is just painters tape. It is used to just make the bulhead former fit tighter within the three brackets. i use painters tape a lot for this purpose because it can easily be removed later. The bformer is nice and snug now.
  24. Chuck
    Just a quick update...Alaskan yellow cedar is being used for this model. The new 1/4" scale stem is now assembled onto the bulkhead former. The rabbet strip was added to the bulkhead former first (5/32 x 1/16). After that dried, the Bformer was beveled along the bearding line into the rabbet strip. Then the stem assembly was glued to that. Finally, the individual keel pieces which are laser cut were glued in succession along the bottom of the bulkhead former. To finish it off, the bolts were simulated using 15 pound black mono filament. I assembled some right angle braces that I designed for the build board to keep the false keel from twisting and bending. Now its time to laser cut those bulkheads and add them. To give you a sense of size...the build board is 36" long. Chuck
  25. Chuck
    That looks great....I should be catching up to you soon enough. I think the supports will keep your hull ...or any hull for that matter from twisting. Nicely done.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...