Chuck

That is looking lovely!!!

Beautiful progress. Nicely done. It a very tidy and precise build. Chuck

Singles are now starting to be added as "in stock" in my online store. Doubles will follow early next week. I think you guys will really, really like the price. So much cheaper than nearly $9 per package for cnc blocks. I hope this makes for an affordable option and they are really terrific looking blocks. I hope you guys give them a try. I am going for a slightly darker "English Boxwood" color on these as I know most dont like the very light blocks on a model. I hope you will be pleased.

Not Really. Its not a dead project at all. Its just far back on the list. Thank you for asking. Chuck

Deadeye test in the "English Boxwood" color along with a test of fiddle blocks and shoulder blocks. Keep in mind these pics are just taken with my phone. They look pretty good in reality.

Wrong sheet you have there…thats chapter two. Those parts are all for the cant frames. They shouldnt even be out of the sheet yet. I fear you have mixed up all of your parts. literally that part 8 is on the sheet with the keel parts from chapter one. The long keel sections for beneath the keelson. Again 5/32” thick. If you built your keel then you have those parts. A little tip….dont even touch the parts bag for chapter two until you are done with chapter one. That is a recipe for disaster.

Sheet "D" with the keel parts. They are 5/32" thick.

Its still too new to me to know that. I pretty much still fumbling around.

Production has begun. 3/16” singles…

Send me your address info via pm and i will mail them to you. chuck

OK slight confession....the blocks you see me working on above are not boxwood. I am working on a speedier alternative. The tricky part is making them look like wood. This will also be a much much cheaper alternative. These blocks are all 3d printed. No painting required...they will come like this straight out of the bag. I have the boxwood or natural blocks all figured out and they look really good. I hope you agree. I just need to get the darker shade chosen. Color and finish is the tricky part of this. Clue blocks, sheet blocks, sister blocks, violin blocks, hearts deadeyes.....the possibilities are endless. Chuck Early tests....good prints but bad resin. It wouldnt dye the correct color and was too shiny.

Yes it was just a bad photo...sorry. Here is a better one. These are so tough to photograph for whatever reason. These are the finished blocks. Production will resume soon. But first to enjoy the fourth!!!

Very Nice progress.

Thank You!!! There is now a small quantity available in my store. They are on the Winnie page. Chuck

Give me a few days and I will make about a dozen packages for the Winnie. I will post when they are ready and available in my store.

It doesnt matter…whatever is more comfortable.

It seemed to work out just fine....But I will let you guys be the judge. These are so small. But they will save so much time. They are very difficult to photograph being black....ish. These take a while to cut so please comment on yea or nay. I dont want to make a bunch and then nobody buys them. I would say $10 per set to cover all the guns on the Winnie.

But.....I will give it a try...what the hell!!!

I wish I could. I dont think I can make them that small. The ones for speedwell are about as small as I can make them. Chuck

Multiple passes and the are made of acrylic.

Making the guns.. There are 8 cannon. First sand the char off both sides of each laser cut sheet of carriage parts. Do this before removing the parts. Its just easier. Then proceed to remove the char from the edges of all pieces. Dont sand too much. Just a light touch is needed. The two sides or the "brackets" of teach carriage are laser cut with all the holes for your various eyebolts etc. Then if you intend to paint the carriages...do that on all parts before assembling. Its just easier. Note the axle are left bright as well as the wheels (trucks). In addition, this chapter will come with a carriage jig. It is a simple jig. Add the center piece of the jig first. Then it is best to add the two axles in position so you can better position the other two jig pieces. Position the two jig elements on the far sides of each axle so they can be easily slipped in and out of the jig. Dont make it so the axles are too tight in the jig and hard to remove. Finish up the the jig with the final fourth piece which is used to secure the brackets at the correct width apart from each other. Then you can glue the two brackets to the axles....after they dry remove this assembly from the jig and you can repeat for all eight carriages. Next up...add the front (transom) and the back (bolster) atop each axle between the brackets. Note the stool bed and quoin ready to go in the next step along with some 3/64" dia brass rod. Insert the longer brass rod (not included) through the carriage. The stool bed will sit on this. The two smaller lengths simulate the transom bolts. Normally this would go through the transom from one side to the other. But in our case they wont. They are just cosmetic. Just fill the hole so it looks like it does. They can be be blackened. Then I glued the quoin atop the stool bed in advance. Then glued this on top of the bolster and long brass rod. See the photo. Small eye bolts were made with 24 gauge black wire and inserted according to the plans. Many of you will be familiar with this repetitive task. I also made ring and bolt for the breech line. Even though the photos show it on the carriage, they will be removed for now. It is easier to add them to the breech line itself and then insert them into the carriage sides. That is if you intend to rig the guns which I do. I also turned the quoin handle from some scrap 3/64" boxwood strips. But you guys ,ay choose a commercial option of using a belaying pin...if they dont look too out of scale and huge. Which they almost certainly always look out of scale. To finish up the carriages I drilled the holes along the stepped sides of each bracket. I inserted 30 pound black fishing line to simulate the bolts. I also added the the trucks (wheels). To finish up the trucks a small length of either 24 gauge black wire or even 25 pound black fishing line can be used to simulate the truck keys. The keys are run through the laser cut holes in each axle. The cannon are resin...they are cleaned up and finished with some weathering powder as I usually do. The trunnion were sanded shorter to match the width of each carriage. The capsquares are interesting. I hate making these. So this time around I spent basically an entire day figuring out how to laser cut them. Thats right....laser cut. No 3d printing or casting. I designed and laser cut the capsquares in one piece. They do have some 3 dimensionality to them. I am quite pleased with how they turned out. It took many many failed attempts. Just clean them up and weather them if you like. Then glue them on.... The finished product... Questions or comments are always welcomed.

I am working on the cannon....will have a step by step very soon. The cannon will be fully rigged since I will be rigging the entire model. Four down and four to go!!

We shall see....It was only the first initial sets of chapters.

Nope ...not at all, LOL. That will all be removed and cut away anyway.

Perfect and such a lovely photo.