Chuck

Keep checking my site...I will be adding a couple more each day or so if I can manage. Two more sets just now added. But no rush for you Frank...You have a long way to go on Winnie yet. Chuck

My daughter was very complimentary about my latest model. But she said I had to put something on the table. It looked too bare and boring. So not wanting to disappoint my lovely daughter I added some laser cut books. Yes that is a very very tiny Seawatch book about Speedwell Volume 1 I believe. Great reading while at sail on those quiet evenings!! The cupola really isnt that shiny....its just the very bright overhead light and the photo camera lights. It is actually much darker and subdued. I think. LOL. The books are just 1/4" tall so very very very tiny. Cleaned up after laser cutting and ready for a printed cover scaled down....But here you see them in the raw state. These are right off the laser cutter and just sanded to remove the char. The close ups are brutal but they look really good at regular viewing. About the size of your fingernail.

Rick...You gave up on Cheerful? And one more thing....Every person who gets one these has to start a build log!!! Its a requirement, LOL. No hiding in the shop. I want to see these projects progress.

So I am so close to listing the first two chapters folks. Maybe Sunday or Monday. I have one test shipment going out to get an idea of shipping across the country. Once I know that I will list the remaining sets I have made for sale on the site. I have one favor to ask....Please read below. I am NOT limiting production so no need to jump on this. In fact if you are not ready to start a build log and start building immediately I would ask that you wait for the next batch of chapter sets. Seriously asking here. If you are currently working on a model and are several months or even a year away from starting Speedwell, It would suck for these to sit on a shelf. Especially when I know of at least ten guys who are waiting patiently to begin building Speedwell right now. I know some of you are more than a year away from starting so please dont buy from this batch. I will be making more consistently for the next few months before I start even thinking about making chapter 3 parts. There will be plenty of opportunity. Let the guys ready to start building get first crack at these please. Also if I havent mentioned it....this will be a big model. If you plan on rigging her it will be 52" long or thereabouts.....and about 40" tall. The hull unrigged is 32" long. So keep this in mind. Remember its a 3/8" scale model. A big girl..... The chapter sets will come with printed plans. Sheets one and two with the first chapter of parts. The remaining will come with the chapter sets when needed. Here are a few just to give you an idea.

Greg convinced me!!! I also spent a great deal of time looking at the contemporary model. I also decided to coper the top of the doorway. It just made sense to do that. I painted a plain piece of paper with the copper paint and cut a narrow strip. This allowed me to leave a nice neat edge on the front of the bulkhead. I left just a 1/64" of the top showing so it looks like molding around the doorway. I am sure I will get used it over time.

Here are two photos of the second version which I made. This one is finished with copper paint and sprayed with dull coat. The copper paint was just from one of those copper leafing pens. It worked really well actually. This was my best result with the copper attempts. I havent glued the cupola on yet so I can keep trying both and pick the one I like best.

Indeed it does. That meant the first try went into the scrap bin. But I eventually figured it out. Mike I originally used copper paint but it was too much for my tastes. It just looked out of place and your wye went right to it too much. Even when toned down I just decided to go brown. But who knows…maybe you will like it. Its just a personal preference thing. It would literally be the only thing on the model with that finish…its a bit distracting to my eye.

The cupola... I was undecided if it made sense to add the cupola now or wait until after the deck is planked. But I decided it might be easier to plank around it so I went and completed it. It will be shaped in a sort of lift method. Below you see all the parts needed laser cut along with the first prototype completed. Step 1...glue the 3 layers of curved roof together with the thinnest curved horseshoe at the end as shown. Step 2... Glue the 1/16 piece on the bottom which will give you the ultimate rounded shape you are shooting for. Step 3... Sand the roof at first to that rounded shape along the sides. Use the piece glued to the bottom as a guide. Step 4... Then sand the top to shape. Specifically the back end of the dome to establish a nice curve. Dont over sand the forward side. Just remove the char and you will be good. Step 5... Finish off what remains by sanding the remaining parts to a nice dome shape. It should look like the bottom of a test tube cut in half. Now at this stage you could also take a Dremel with a small sanding tip and shape the inside. But why bother. It will never be seen. You can make it as thin as an eggshell if you desire but seriously there is no point. You should remove the cross piece from the opening on the forward side though. There is no reason to keep that now that it is all shaped. That was from the 1/16" layer that you glued to the bottom of the assembly early on. Step 6...Take the last remaining laser cut horse shoe piece (1/8" thick) and sand the char from the outside edge. Also round of the top outside edge. When you place the cupola on top it should leave a consistent lip all around it. This gives you the illusion of a molding piece all around the bottom of the cupola. Step 7...Paint it copper or brown or whatever color you prefer. I didnt want to go with shiny metallic copper paint. I opted for a medium brown color. But before you can add it to the model the framing for the cupola needs to be added between the deck beams. That is the last laser cut piece. Just sand the char from it and position it as shown. No need to clean the char from the center because you will never see it. center it behind the door. Step 8... Glue the cupola in position after making sure it fits snug against the door frame. It should also leave a little lip around the top of the door frame being slightly smaller in size. For now I have left the rim around the top of the door frame bright. But I may decide to paint it the same brown color to match the cupola later on. I havent decided yet. I want to wait until after a build the railing and have the deck planking all done. I will see how it all looks at that time. This finishes work on the qdeck for now....I am going to finally move to the fcastle area.

Outstanding!!!

That rope looks great…well done.

I believe he is correct....

I am not sure what you mean. The great cabin is now finished. That is a small row of closets and entranceways as per the original draft. I am just using windows on the doors to let light in the cabin rather than solid doors. It makes sense that they would have them there. I have a few small things left to add to this area but its basically done for now...then its on to the f'castle details. chuck

The wood color and finish has a wonderful quality. But the craftsmanship is top notch as well.

Its really looking terrific

Messing around with cabin cupboards or closets. Making the bulkhead assemblies and inserting them. Nothing is glued in yet.

Thank you so much for saying. Today I decided to just have a little fun. I designed and laser cut the parts to make a simple table and chairs for the great cabin. I also made some cushions which are also laser cut. Made some for the bench lockers too. The great cabin is not so large. Even though this looks like a huge model the cabin is actually very small. A tiny space with not too much room. I pondered making a table to show the scale and how little room there would actually be in there. The table is just 2' x 4' in size. Also consider that I havent made the closets and cupboards yet which go on the forward side of the cabin. I will begin work on those now and see how it all looks when completed. I decided not to even paint the cushions...why not!! It was a really fun project at any rate. If I decide to use them I may include the parts in the kit. I also have some 1:32 figures on the way from Chris at Vanguard.

Really nice progress Mike. The framing looks fantastic inboard and outboard.

I cant believe I forgot to add the last piece. I completely forgot about it and then just saw it sitting inside the hull. I originally tried to make this from boxwood but it was way too fragile. It broke every time. So I cut one out of the tan plastic stuff I used for the windows and just forgot to add it. You can see a spare sitting in the hull. You can see how fragile it looks. A beaded molding trim that goes all around the inside of the doorway. I have now added this last piece and that completes chapter 5. I think it finishes the bulkhead and I am glad I spotted it. Its all about the small details. I also finally cleaned up the hull and added some wipe on poly. So all the wood should be less white and toned down now. This is the final color with the finish added. I dont know If there is much difference but in real life there certainly is. Next I will start building the storage closets inside the great cabin.

Door handles are now in stock as well

Thanks...The hinges are now in stock.. I will have a lot of bulkhead doors to make. Another feature I absolutely hate is making the door knobs. No matter how hard I try they never look good to me. So my preference is to make handles. These are not easy to make from scratch. But the laser cutter makes it pretty easy. My Speedwell bulkhead door mock up is pictured. So I will be using old fashioned 18th century door handles instead of knobs. I think they look much more interesting. I have made 3 sizes again for my own personal use. They are made from the black plastic I have been using. If there is any interest in these I can also make them available. Just let me know. Once they are glued onto the doors, I like to use a sharp #11 blade and thin down the bottom of the handle itself to make it curved. This is more in keeping with the 18th century style I have seen used. They take forever to laser cut and are so crazy tiny. But its just a matter of popping them out of the sheet and gluing them on. That is if I dont drop them on the floor and they are lost forever. Let me know if you guys would like these made available. And some real ones I used but I cant get them this delicate looking...but it will do.

Coming Soon!!! I really dont know why I havent offered these already...Oh well I will be making a ton of bulkheads with doors for Speedwell really soon. They will require many hinges. The usual "H" and "L" type hinges we use on models. So I have designed three sizes which should fit most scales. They are 9/32" and 7/32" and 3/16" tall hinges. You get 21 hinges "L type" You get 45 hinges "H" type" These should be available in a few days. They are all black laser board and will come in very handy. I dont have a picture with these in use yet but soon. The closest I have is the Bulkhead door but it uses a unique version for the top curved hinge. But you get the idea. The bottom hinge is one of the "L type hinges". It is the larger size in height for this scale but its all relative. Some used on Mike's Winnie...although these are adjusted slightly but you get the idea.

No gaps to worry about Mike...you will see when you get to this point. Here is the step by step to finish the bulkhead. These are my notes so I dont forget how I did it. Once the bulkhead is glued into position we need to add another layer on the aft side. This will make the aft side nice and smooth and even and neaten it all up. I am referring to the two strakes below the windows and the uprights between the windows. All are laser cut. Now we can finally cut away the beam within the doorway and the other straps as well. Do this carefully with a fine toothed saw. I use a fine toothed scroll saw blade in an Xacto blade handle. The bulkhead layers make it all sturdy but you still need a light touch. No hurry with this. Below you can see the open space for the doorway after I cut them away and then sanded the sides of the opening flush with a sanding stick. You can also see the door laying there. I finished the other side which gets another layer of .025 cedar with another panel...unpainted. The small strip you see there becomes the saddle in the doorway that the door will rest on top of. It is a 5/32" x 3/64" strip. The same thickness as the planking wee will use on the gun deck. Testing the door in position...which is wider than you will need. Sand it to fit the opening...and tweak the opening as well. A little sanding with a sanding stick on both will insure a nice fit. Note how the door is sitting on top of that saddle strip. The door is not glued in position yet. It is just a test for the next step...the rounded top frame. The first .025 layer can be seen in the same photo ready to go. See it laying on the deck? This first layer (of four) is .025 thick. It is a little taller than you will need. So while the door is resting in the opening, set it in position. You will see a gap along the top of the door. Sand the bottom of this arch a little at a time until that gap closes up. Then glue it to the front side of the two tabs sticking up. Sand the seams flat and paint the front face red. Then one by one there are three more layers of this arch. Next the 3/64" thick piece. Then another .025 and lastly another 3/64" thick arch. This will make the top arch above the door nice and sturdy. Now you are ready to finish it up... Note…dont bother cleaning the char from the edges of these pieces. You will distort the curves and it wont match the top of the door. This wont be seen at all. You can lightly sand the top of the arch once all the layers are glued in position. But just a little. That will be covered up also. You can now place the margin plank along the front of the whole bulkhead. It will hang over the front slightly. It will also leave a nice rabbet on the aft side for the qdeck planking. It is a 1/4" x 3/64 strip. Just round off the forward edge and cut it to length on both sides of the arched door frame. The last piece will now cover up all those layers of the arched top. It is laser cut for you. There is a handle on the part so you can sand the char from the outside of this piece without breaking it. It is a bit fragile ( I will provide a few extra). Once the char is removed then cut it free from the handle. Dont bother sanding the underside of this piece. Once again it wont be seen. The forward edge is rounded off. The aft side remains flat. You can see it glued on top of the arch in the photo below. It is 7/32" wide and all the pieces are flush on the aft side of the platform. It is basically an extension of the margin plank around the top of the arch to clean it all up. We havent glued the door in yet so we can remove it and add the laser cut hinges. You can also add the door knobs. That is your choice...a simple knob or maybe a pull handle. I prefer bending some brass strip and making a pull handle. Then you can glue the door in position and the bulkhead is complete.

Nope… its in for good. Lots of layers and parts. Its all glued in secure.

I would be so lucky to have it come out like that Greg. Yes I did add more columns...I figured why not!! I would only regret it later. I will also embellish the railing along the quarter deck a bit more. I am taking bits of detail from another original draft used for "FLY".