Chuck

Lots of drafting to do....Deck Layouts almost completed.

Very nice

Just a heads up...I have decided to make the plan sheets for this project available electronically. Many have asked for an additional set so they can cut them up or so they can have a clean extra set. Although I am printing them and including them with each appropriate laser cut installment, some folks may be worried about stretching and or shrinking of the folded paper plans provided as well. So to ensure there are no issues they are available electronically and can be printed on your own for a spare set to cut up as well. I routinely cut them up myself to use for templates and such. Since no framing parts are included there really isnt a concern that this will lead to copying of my kit design. Not all laser cut parts are shown on the plans...for good reason. So here are the first three....plan sheets completed. The remaining will be added to my website once I am sure they are OK, after I build those areas of my prototype. They are also available on my website speedwellsheetone.pdf speedwellsheettwo.pdf speedwellsheetthree.pdf

Fine work...very sharp and well executed.

Just a heads up for those building the kit. Jim Rogers caught a error on the labeling of parts. It is now corrected. But you will find that there are two sets of frame parts AF.....The taller set is actually AF. The shorter set is mislabeled. Those are actually 10A. Good catch Jim....thank you. The parts are actually fine. The one set is just mislabeled. So grab your parts and correct the label on the shorter set before you get that far. Label them as parts 10a. You will find them on sheet "M" of laser cut parts. Those need to be relabeled. Chuck

Work continues on the forecastle area. With those first two beams in position I can now start working on the bulkhead that sits against them. In this first picture, I am just test fitting the three sections of laser cut bulkhead. These (like all others) are laser cut slightly wider and taller than needed. First...work on getting a nice fit on the center section between the riding bits. Only worry about the width on both sides...dont worry about the height of these yet. The two pieces on either side are next...sand the outboard side ONLY to reduce the width and get a tight fit against the riding bitts. There will be a space between the frames and the bulkhead where the inboard planking would have been. Try and make it a consistent width. Again dont worry about the height. Only after you get the widths taken care of should you then sand the top of each bulkhead section down so the height is flush with the top of the lower beam. The photo shows the three sections with a proper fit all around...now its time to detail them. Remove the three sections so you can add the uprights and simulated deck beam. First up...sand the char from the laser cut beam pieces. These are glued to the top edge of each bulkhead flush. They are laser cut longer than needed so you can sand the sides flush as well. Then the uprights go in position. These are the uprights for the cabins on the lower platform. We will be adding them a little later. But it is easier to add these now. They are just 1/8" x 1/8" strips cut to length and glued in place. There are laser etched lines that show you exactly where they should go. Then glue the three sections in position permanently on the model. Note the riding bitts will not be glued on permanently yet. They will just get in the way when we are doing so many other things in this chapter. So make sure you can remove it after the three sections are glued in place. Riding bitts removed. Now for the next layer above that. this is handled in the exact same way. I could have just included these on the first three section only a bit taller, but I wanted to be able to paint them cleanly and get a crisp edge. But the same principle applies here. Sand the widths of each first....then get the heights done. These are flush with the top of the fcastle deck beam. Then remove them..... Paint them red. Then add the laser cut and etched molding along the top edge. The molding was rounded off on top and bottom. You could also scrape your own if you want to. Then sit this on top of the lower sections of bulkhead as shown below. The riding bitts are still removable but you must use them to get a good fit. Glue these bulkhead sections in position now as well. Top this off with the margin plank along the beam. Cut a 1/4" x 3/64" strip for this. Basically, just like you added for the quarter deck margin plank. It hangs over the bulkhead a little bit. The aft edge hanging over is rounded off a bit to your liking. The forward side will leave a nice ledge or rabbet for the fcastle deck planking. The only difference here is that you must notch out this plank for the riding bitts. see below. Also the riding bitts are not yet glued in position...I will let you know when its best to glue that in position. BUT I did finally glue the fire hearth in place permanently. Just remember to do so without its stack. That will just break off later without a doubt. And if you want to add anything else to the galley...do it now. We are about to close her up for good with deck beams and knees, etc. The three fcastle deck beams were cut to length and are just resting on the deck clamps. I must locate their exact positions using the plans. Thats it for now...BUT I did get a chance to cut the plan sheet up to see how my planking design will look. Its always tricky deciding how much planking to add or leave off the model. I think I am liking this particular cut-away with some planking removed. You can still see quite a bit of stuff down there... The hearth stack was just placed on top for giggles and a test. I also did the same for the quarter deck...once again plenty of detail is still viewable down there. I will live with these templates for a while and mull over some other possible planking schemes. But so far I think these will do just nicely. What do you think?

Glad to see a build log. Yes…i actually have a photo of that. Which you posted. The circled areas (on one end or the other of a given joint) need to be sanded to close the gaps. The gaps are intentional and yes you will need to sand the end of the scarph on the opposite side to close the gaps. This will be especially true with each frame segment as the thick wood when laser cut leaves a curved and bevelled edge that wasnt easily remedied by just flipping the pieces on the laser cutter. So each piece will have one end that needs just a hair of sanding. See the page of the 1st chapter that explains this. Just a few swipes should do the trick. Chuck

Looking really food Ken.

While most folks here are concentrating on the software I would first find out the capabilities of that Library laser cutter. You will want to cut wood ….depending on species that can get pretty thick. My guess is this laser cutter wont be of high enough power to cut anything more than 3/32” thick basswood. And certainly not ply unless its very thin. So check the specs before you start. you would certainly need a 60 watt laser at a minimum but that is pushing it. its far better to use 80 to 100 watt laser. Otherwise it wont cut the thicker stuff at all. Smaller machines for paper and light crafts are useless for ship model work.

Thank You. There is really no trick here. Its just sanding mainly. I use a coarser grit first to get the main stuff off. Most often 220 0r even 100 grit. I throw the paper away as soon as it gets loaded with char. Otherwise it just makes the wood dirty. Then I switch to a finer grit of about 320. There are occasions where I also initially scrape the char off with a straight razor or #11 blade carefully without damaging the wood. Then follow up with 320 grit. A few passes and then blow the dirty char dust away so you dont push it around the wood making it dirty again. That it really. The real trick is that I design every piece knowing that you and I have to remove the char and so it is very slightly larger than the sanded size. Otherwise like most other kit mfgs the part becomes too small. Hence the hesitancy of folks to sand so much. But not with the parts for this model or any other I have designed. If the part is too fragile however I may just go with a few passes of 320 or finer and then just paint the piece to look like wood.

I was young and working a real job at the time. Live and learn. And I have learned so much since back in those days. No royalties for me. But I got $500 worth of stiff Nylon rigging rope and square rigging blocks for a few years....LOL Chuck

I am not sure if I will add those details yet. I am still mulling it over. The reason why we builders add those fun details is to set our models apart from the many that will end up being made. It also means I have to build another set of every table and chair again so I can write the instructions for them...LOL. But the Speedwell project moves forward at any rate. Now working on fcastle details.

See my post above.....cheaper and premium quality. You just cant beat the quality for the money. If you are building Syren I recommend you get 3/64" thick strips. Although I dont remember what actual thickness I used when I designed that prototype. It was such a long time ago. That was my first kit design which I sold to Model Shipways. I believe I recieved a $500 gift certificate for Model Expo products for that design. I think they got a good deal on it, LOL. So best to check out the materials list in your kit and just replace with whatever you prefer from Joe. Cedar or Boxwood. And fun fact...this is why I started my own company and it is named for this very first ship I ever designed a kit for.

Thats not boxwood from ME....Its dyed yellow and a common lesser wood veneer that is very rough and stringy. It is very common and cut into strips by ME. Its a bit unethical to say the least but they fool a lot of people with those. Just do a google search for yellow dyed veneer. Its why they only carry 1mm thicknesses. A sheet will cost you about $4 retail and you can cut about 25 or 30 strips from each sheet. Maybe even more depending on the widths you want. You paid $8 for 12 strips. That is a lot of profit and I doubt they paid retail...sorry but you got snookered. It would be challenging to find a strip in your pile with a nice crisp flat edge that can be butt against another for a tight seam when planking. They do sell yellow dyed veneer of better quality wood which would hold a nice edge and be suitable for planking...but your pile of strips is not that. You paid $8 for about .80 worth of wood strips. You would have been better served to buy the same number of Yellow Cedar strips from Modelers Sawmill... $4 for 10 strips and beautiful yellow color that doesnt look artificial. Plus so many other sizes. See below. A nice hard edge as well. About 1/2 what you paid... OR better yet....buy actual Boxwood from Joe (south american) and its still cheaper than what you paid for that stuff. Ship model with yellow cedar...

Based on popular demand and multiple requests, a package of smaller door handles is now available. This multi-pack gives you 30 each of the 3/16" tall handles and now 1/8" tall handles. In addition ....a multi pack of smaller door hinges is also available. You get 16 each of 1/8" and 3/16" tall Hinges. In both styles....

So nice Mike...getting to the fun bits now. Chuck

It looks fantastic...you did a sensational job on the friezes.

Not back in that cabin….take a look at the original draft. The captains stateroom is on the lower platform….an even smaller space. These were small vessels and working mainly coastal. Smaller crew and even smaller spaces. Heres a look at the original draft and cabin spaces.

One of the benefits of working at 1/32" scale is of course the size. I think its easier to handle the parts and keep things neat and tidy. But in addition to that you can really get a lot of details in there. Stuff I would never attempt to add on smaller scales. Further, 1/32 and better yet 1/35 scale is a very popular modeling scale. There are so many aftermarket parts and details available for builders at this scale. This includes figures and accessories. Like the small cups and pitcher. Its all readily available on Etsy or Ebay. Its also fun to just look. I am waiting on a few other things I made add. The barrels are Syren barrels. I am also getting some new ones in stock I think you guys will like. It might be a while though. The checker is still very tiny but that is laser cut by me including small very teensy checkers. The stools are also laser cut in cedar and very differnt from the cushy chairs in the great cabin for the officers. The cups and tea cups and teapot are all 3d prints from EBAY. They were cheap and there are so many to choose from....you can add crates and boxes full of food and pots and pans and utensils. Its really just up to you and how much fun you might want to have with it. The officer in the great cabin is from Vanguard. It had a tall hat so I removed that and just shaped some hair in the traditional pony tail of the day. I didnt want to really paint these items as I want them to all fade into the background. I want to keep it all very suggestive and simple. So rather than paint everything with realistic coloring with all the uniform colors and fanfare, I am just finishing all this stuff as if it was wood color...and carved. Its a minimalist approach so the ship itself takes center stage. But it will all be covered and just barely visible when the decks are planked. But still you might just get a glimpse and a happy surprise if you look hard enough. I think it will be fun. I do actually have a few more 1/32 and 1/35 scale odds and ends coming in the mail. We shall see if they make the cut and I add them to the model. I dont want to over do it. For all you guys who would do the same...try and stick with 1/35 scale details. They are plentiful and just a tad smaller and look better on the model. Chuck

Decided not to work today and instead start working on the fcastle beams. Its basically the same as establishing the height for the gundeck beams and deck clamps. There is a template provided for you. But yes you can measure it any way you feel comfortable. Trace the bottom of the template in pencil. The line you just drew will become the TOP of the deck clamp for the fcastle beams. I will repeat that...The top edge of the deck clamp. Once the deck clamp is in position which is a small length of 1/4" x 1/16" cedar strip, we can proceed with the first deck beams. There are two we must contend with first. One is a gundeck beam....and the one above that is the first fcsatle beam. They are both 1/4" deep but the fcastle beam on top is much thinner. Those beams were not as heavy. In the photo above you can see how the aft edge of these two beams are all flush with the riding bitts. This is important. The riding bitts are not glued in position yet and we can use them to establish the position of both beams. The beams must of course be cleaned of char and cut to length so they sit nicely on to of the deck clamps for them. These two beams can be glued in position but still refrain from gluing the riding bitts in place. Also do not glue in the fire hearth yet. Although this will sit flush against both beams and can help you position them as well. Next up I will start working on the remaining 3 fcastle deck beams but I wont glue them in position just yet.

Excellent…you will enjoy the next chapter.

Your blocks are looking great. I imagine they take a while to print. But that is something that cant be avoided. My CNC blocks take forever to make. But the good thing is no laser char as you mentioned earlier. They are pretty crisp. I just now started packaging up a new batch of singles that were completed today. It takes a very long time as the cnc machine is insanely slow. But I would suggest that you try just using some white and yellow ochre weathering powder to make them look like wood. You could also go darker if you prefer. But I find the weathering powders cover the gray easily and you cant see any build up or brush strokes. No loss of detail at all. Here is a picture of the pile that I am just now packaging up. no gluing them up or laser char.

Not really...there are no drawings of the frames in the kit plans because they are not needed. All the frame parts are laser cut. The other plan sheets will be released however as PDF docs.... But yes there are plans available at 1/4" scale in the seawatch books. They are included in the two volume set. They are of course slightly different than my approach but everything you need is in those two sets for a scratch build. Chuck

Looks great Mike.

I am going to be listing a few each day as I make more until my wood runs out.