Chuck

I forgot to mention that I will not be drilling the deck for the masts since there wont be any.  I simply painted the circles black on the false decking.  The partners are really thick and then there will be the mast coats so these holes will be pretty deep.  So it will look nice and neat this way and nobody will ever know.  AND they are so deep that if anyone was crazy enough to rig her, that they would be sufficiently deep enough to stick your masts into.
 

Thanks guys.  Yes I am aware of that stove.  I am not sure it would fit perfectly but I guess it wouldnt hurt to try.  Its a bit a cheat though....especially since we should at least try and build one.  Having it all done like that defeats the purpose in my opinion.   
 
It doesnt have to be made from scratch but it should at least be made....not just painted and stuck on the model.  Just my opinion though.

I forgot to mention that I will not be drilling the deck for the masts since there wont be any.  I simply painted the circles black on the false decking.  The partners are really thick and then there will be the mast coats so these holes will be pretty deep.  So it will look nice and neat this way and nobody will ever know.  AND they are so deep that if anyone was crazy enough to rig her, that they would be sufficiently deep enough to stick your masts into.
 

Looks good but that window glazing will get so dusty on the inside and impossible to clean.  I wouldnt add it until much much later.  No need to do it now at all.  I have also just switched to black on the top of the roof after much contemplation.  It looks better to my eye and make the fancy rail stand out much more.   See the photo below. Something to consider.
 
Chuck
 

I forgot to mention that I will not be drilling the deck for the masts since there wont be any.  I simply painted the circles black on the false decking.  The partners are really thick and then there will be the mast coats so these holes will be pretty deep.  So it will look nice and neat this way and nobody will ever know.  AND they are so deep that if anyone was crazy enough to rig her, that they would be sufficiently deep enough to stick your masts into.
 

I am not even sure this thing as designed can be built.  It is only 8" long.  But I basically drafted it exactly like my barge kit.  The only difference difference is it will be carvel planked.   But I drafted it with frames to be built in a jig just like the barge kit which is 19" long.  I must be nuts trying to build it with floors and futtucks.  I may change that but I am curious if it can be done.  What do you think????  Too ambitious.  It will certainly be a detailed almost stand alone kit.  
 

I forgot to mention that I will not be drilling the deck for the masts since there wont be any.  I simply painted the circles black on the false decking.  The partners are really thick and then there will be the mast coats so these holes will be pretty deep.  So it will look nice and neat this way and nobody will ever know.  AND they are so deep that if anyone was crazy enough to rig her, that they would be sufficiently deep enough to stick your masts into.
 

Looks good but that window glazing will get so dusty on the inside and impossible to clean.  I wouldnt add it until much much later.  No need to do it now at all.  I have also just switched to black on the top of the roof after much contemplation.  It looks better to my eye and make the fancy rail stand out much more.   See the photo below. Something to consider.
 
Chuck
 

I forgot to mention that I will not be drilling the deck for the masts since there wont be any.  I simply painted the circles black on the false decking.  The partners are really thick and then there will be the mast coats so these holes will be pretty deep.  So it will look nice and neat this way and nobody will ever know.  AND they are so deep that if anyone was crazy enough to rig her, that they would be sufficiently deep enough to stick your masts into.
 

I have completed all of the partners and coamings......I can almost start planking the deck now.  I forgot one last detail which I will show you guys soon.   But here are some pics. 
 
The foremast partners are made from laser cut parts and then I added the bolts.  I used 15 pound filament for those.  Use a #75 drill bit for the holes.
 
You can also see the base plate for the stove.   You have a few options with this.  I have laser cut a nice base for you.  At this time the base was most likely just a large iron plate....but in some cases they used flagstone or slate.  If you want to depict the iron plate....just flip it over and paint it matte black.   But if you want to show some slate or flagstones, I have laser etched the other side with a stone tile pattern.
 
Simply paint it matte black first but keep the coaming natural.  Then use some weathering powders on the tiles to make them only slightly lighter.  Leave the etched grout lines (which are deeper) dark black.   But use some grays and rust colors to make a subtle stone base.  Dont over do it!!!
 
The main mast partners were done the same as the fore mast partners.   None of these are glued in position yet but I will be doing so soon!!!






Any comments or questions!!!!!!!

Back to the Winnie....
 
To make the gratings for the gun deck you will need 3 packages of my cambered grating mini kits.  I will not be including these in the package for chapter 4 because I sell them in either cedar (less expensive) or boxwood.   Both would work and you guys can choose.  You will also need the grating jig.  One jig should last you the entire project.
 
To start, figure out how many cambered laser cut grating strips you will need to fit the space in your coaming.  Only build what you need.  For example this grating below on left side needed just seven grating strips in the jig.  My coaming were designed so each grating will fit perfectly when finished.  So dont use more than the space needs.
 

Then use the supplied strips and press them into the notches carefully.  You will notice they will probably be too tight at first.  This is by design.  You need to run some sandpaper down the strip until it becomes a nice press-fit into the notches.  Once again only use the number of strips you need.  In this case 13 strips pressed firmly in position...
 
At this stage you should look it over to make sure no grating strips went crooked while you were fitting the batten strips.  If they did your holes wont be equal in shape and size.  Fix those now using a toothpick if they lean over.  Its easy to do.
 

Then paint on some watered down tite-bond.  Get it in all the nooks and crannies.   Not too thick.   If the holes start clogging....add more water.
Wait about 2 minutes but not so long that the glue will dry.  You want to carefully pry the grating free of the jig before it dries and is glued to the jig!!!
 
Then clean up the jig for the next grating.   But you are not done yet.  Brush more glue on the bottom underside of the grating.  Set it aside to dry fully.
 

Now you are probably saying.... how in world will these ugly dirty gratings look good.  Right now they look awful.
 
Snip off the excess from the perimeter and file the sides smooth.  Check the fit in the coaming.   Then start sanding the top surface.  In the center photo below you can see I have sanding that grating only on one side.  The finished grating can be seen coming to light.
 
The one on the right is completed.   These are cedar gratings by the way.   Now should you sand the bottom too?   You dont have to.....BUT, I am sure you have seen those contemporary models and have seen how thin they are.  I wouldnt recommend going too thin.   But it does change the way the grating looks in the coaming.   
 

 
And here are the finished coamings with the gratings in position.   
 

ANY QUESTIONS????

This ship just keeps getting better and better!
 
👍👍👍 from me for a Winnie cross-section. I would love for it to have the main mast and rigging with it too or at least as an option.
 
 
 
 

Sure the lighter one is cedar.....other than the slight color difference they both look and perform the task beautifully.  Keep in mind I just took this with my phone.   But you get the idea.
 

 
Chuck

I forgot to mention that I will not be drilling the deck for the masts since there wont be any.  I simply painted the circles black on the false decking.  The partners are really thick and then there will be the mast coats so these holes will be pretty deep.  So it will look nice and neat this way and nobody will ever know.  AND they are so deep that if anyone was crazy enough to rig her, that they would be sufficiently deep enough to stick your masts into.
 

I have completed all of the partners and coamings......I can almost start planking the deck now.  I forgot one last detail which I will show you guys soon.   But here are some pics. 
 
The foremast partners are made from laser cut parts and then I added the bolts.  I used 15 pound filament for those.  Use a #75 drill bit for the holes.
 
You can also see the base plate for the stove.   You have a few options with this.  I have laser cut a nice base for you.  At this time the base was most likely just a large iron plate....but in some cases they used flagstone or slate.  If you want to depict the iron plate....just flip it over and paint it matte black.   But if you want to show some slate or flagstones, I have laser etched the other side with a stone tile pattern.
 
Simply paint it matte black first but keep the coaming natural.  Then use some weathering powders on the tiles to make them only slightly lighter.  Leave the etched grout lines (which are deeper) dark black.   But use some grays and rust colors to make a subtle stone base.  Dont over do it!!!
 
The main mast partners were done the same as the fore mast partners.   None of these are glued in position yet but I will be doing so soon!!!






Any comments or questions!!!!!!!

Back to the Winnie....
 
To make the gratings for the gun deck you will need 3 packages of my cambered grating mini kits.  I will not be including these in the package for chapter 4 because I sell them in either cedar (less expensive) or boxwood.   Both would work and you guys can choose.  You will also need the grating jig.  One jig should last you the entire project.
 
To start, figure out how many cambered laser cut grating strips you will need to fit the space in your coaming.  Only build what you need.  For example this grating below on left side needed just seven grating strips in the jig.  My coaming were designed so each grating will fit perfectly when finished.  So dont use more than the space needs.
 

Then use the supplied strips and press them into the notches carefully.  You will notice they will probably be too tight at first.  This is by design.  You need to run some sandpaper down the strip until it becomes a nice press-fit into the notches.  Once again only use the number of strips you need.  In this case 13 strips pressed firmly in position...
 
At this stage you should look it over to make sure no grating strips went crooked while you were fitting the batten strips.  If they did your holes wont be equal in shape and size.  Fix those now using a toothpick if they lean over.  Its easy to do.
 

Then paint on some watered down tite-bond.  Get it in all the nooks and crannies.   Not too thick.   If the holes start clogging....add more water.
Wait about 2 minutes but not so long that the glue will dry.  You want to carefully pry the grating free of the jig before it dries and is glued to the jig!!!
 
Then clean up the jig for the next grating.   But you are not done yet.  Brush more glue on the bottom underside of the grating.  Set it aside to dry fully.
 

Now you are probably saying.... how in world will these ugly dirty gratings look good.  Right now they look awful.
 
Snip off the excess from the perimeter and file the sides smooth.  Check the fit in the coaming.   Then start sanding the top surface.  In the center photo below you can see I have sanding that grating only on one side.  The finished grating can be seen coming to light.
 
The one on the right is completed.   These are cedar gratings by the way.   Now should you sand the bottom too?   You dont have to.....BUT, I am sure you have seen those contemporary models and have seen how thin they are.  I wouldnt recommend going too thin.   But it does change the way the grating looks in the coaming.   
 

 
And here are the finished coamings with the gratings in position.   
 

ANY QUESTIONS????

Sure the lighter one is cedar.....other than the slight color difference they both look and perform the task beautifully.  Keep in mind I just took this with my phone.   But you get the idea.
 

 
Chuck

Sure the lighter one is cedar.....other than the slight color difference they both look and perform the task beautifully.  Keep in mind I just took this with my phone.   But you get the idea.
 

 
Chuck

Sure the lighter one is cedar.....other than the slight color difference they both look and perform the task beautifully.  Keep in mind I just took this with my phone.   But you get the idea.
 

 
Chuck

I forgot to mention that I will not be drilling the deck for the masts since there wont be any.  I simply painted the circles black on the false decking.  The partners are really thick and then there will be the mast coats so these holes will be pretty deep.  So it will look nice and neat this way and nobody will ever know.  AND they are so deep that if anyone was crazy enough to rig her, that they would be sufficiently deep enough to stick your masts into.
 

Very nice!!!  You will be catching up to me soon!!!

Thank You fellas
 
Today I added the waterway on top of the margin planks.  Originally I was going to use a 1/16" x 1/16" strip.  But after some thought I switched and used a 3/64" x 3/64" strip of cedar.  I carefully sanded away one corner so the strip was like a quarter round molding.  Then I glued it along the bulwarks.
 

Then it was time for the checker pattern floor in the great cabin.  This is 3/64" thick.  It is laser etched with the pattern as you can see.  It is cut over-sized so with a little tweaking it should fit everyone's model.  So it is crucial that you make a paper pattern first that fits in the space tight.  Then trace it on the sheet and cut it to fit your model.  Try for a nice tight fit!!!  I prefer a subtle pattern that isnt too dark.  So many models end up with a black and white pattern which I find so distracting.  
 
Remember where the forward bulkhead will be so you position the forward edge correctly.  My floor ends right under where the deck beam will be so I know the bulkhead will sit on top of the edge of the checker pattern.
 

From this point, I will slowly make my way forward building the various coamings and partners.  This needs to be done so we can plank the deck properly around these items.  You can see that the one coaming and grating was completed.  I wont add the ladder until later.  But I did manage to build the capstan partners.

The capstan partner sits against the coaming.  It is also laser cut in three pieces and glues together quickly.  I simulated the seams between each section.  I also softened the top edge because it shouldnt be a hard edge.
 
One interesting feature about the partners is that it should NOT be glued directly to the false deck.  The deck is sloped which is to be expected.  But the partners need to be level otherwise the capstan will not work properly.  This means the forward edge of the partners need to be lifted a bit to raise it up and level it off.  I did this with a little cheat.  I added a small length of a 1/32" strip under the forward edge which will be covered up after we plank the deck.  You will notice how it looks lifted up on the forward side and level.  If you need to sand the bottom of the aft edge a bit to make it level then that is OK also.
 
I simulated the bolts using 20 pound black monfilament.  You guys should pick some up in various sizes as we will be using it a lot throught the model.  
 
Chuck

Back to the Winnie....
 
To make the gratings for the gun deck you will need 3 packages of my cambered grating mini kits.  I will not be including these in the package for chapter 4 because I sell them in either cedar (less expensive) or boxwood.   Both would work and you guys can choose.  You will also need the grating jig.  One jig should last you the entire project.
 
To start, figure out how many cambered laser cut grating strips you will need to fit the space in your coaming.  Only build what you need.  For example this grating below on left side needed just seven grating strips in the jig.  My coaming were designed so each grating will fit perfectly when finished.  So dont use more than the space needs.
 

Then use the supplied strips and press them into the notches carefully.  You will notice they will probably be too tight at first.  This is by design.  You need to run some sandpaper down the strip until it becomes a nice press-fit into the notches.  Once again only use the number of strips you need.  In this case 13 strips pressed firmly in position...
 
At this stage you should look it over to make sure no grating strips went crooked while you were fitting the batten strips.  If they did your holes wont be equal in shape and size.  Fix those now using a toothpick if they lean over.  Its easy to do.
 

Then paint on some watered down tite-bond.  Get it in all the nooks and crannies.   Not too thick.   If the holes start clogging....add more water.
Wait about 2 minutes but not so long that the glue will dry.  You want to carefully pry the grating free of the jig before it dries and is glued to the jig!!!
 
Then clean up the jig for the next grating.   But you are not done yet.  Brush more glue on the bottom underside of the grating.  Set it aside to dry fully.
 

Now you are probably saying.... how in world will these ugly dirty gratings look good.  Right now they look awful.
 
Snip off the excess from the perimeter and file the sides smooth.  Check the fit in the coaming.   Then start sanding the top surface.  In the center photo below you can see I have sanding that grating only on one side.  The finished grating can be seen coming to light.
 
The one on the right is completed.   These are cedar gratings by the way.   Now should you sand the bottom too?   You dont have to.....BUT, I am sure you have seen those contemporary models and have seen how thin they are.  I wouldnt recommend going too thin.   But it does change the way the grating looks in the coaming.   
 

 
And here are the finished coamings with the gratings in position.   
 

ANY QUESTIONS????

I have completed all of the partners and coamings......I can almost start planking the deck now.  I forgot one last detail which I will show you guys soon.   But here are some pics. 
 
The foremast partners are made from laser cut parts and then I added the bolts.  I used 15 pound filament for those.  Use a #75 drill bit for the holes.
 
You can also see the base plate for the stove.   You have a few options with this.  I have laser cut a nice base for you.  At this time the base was most likely just a large iron plate....but in some cases they used flagstone or slate.  If you want to depict the iron plate....just flip it over and paint it matte black.   But if you want to show some slate or flagstones, I have laser etched the other side with a stone tile pattern.
 
Simply paint it matte black first but keep the coaming natural.  Then use some weathering powders on the tiles to make them only slightly lighter.  Leave the etched grout lines (which are deeper) dark black.   But use some grays and rust colors to make a subtle stone base.  Dont over do it!!!
 
The main mast partners were done the same as the fore mast partners.   None of these are glued in position yet but I will be doing so soon!!!






Any comments or questions!!!!!!!

I am going to use 1/4” wide planks.   But for those who prefer a slightly narrower look you can go with 7/32”.  They will be 3/64” thick.   You will need a few 5/16” wide plans also for cutting the scarph joints and tabbed deck planks every now and again.