Chuck

Thanks Allan
 
Yes the traveler ring is not made from wire that is usually the case.  It is made from 1mm brass tube.  Its easier to use and looks better.  You cut the rings like you would if you were using wire.  Just wrap around a dowel and then cut with a saw.   Then a small length of 24 gauge wire is inserted into the tube to close it up...you can push it pretty far into the tube so no solder is even required.  But first you should slide your shackle and hook onto it and then close it up....those are also made from 24 gauge wire.

Al
 
Unfortunately I cant add to an order already submitted.  Its protection for you and your CC's are deleted immediately after the order is finalized.
 
This is how the traveler ring looks after rigging it.  The jibsail and foresail rigging is now completed.  All that remains to rig are the two yards....once I make them.   That will complete the rigging and then its the final stretch with a few additional details....anchors....flag....boarding ropes......and she is officially done. 
 

 

Mike
 
You will have to show me when you drop by the shop.   Today I am preparing to start the running rigging.  The first thing I did was make all of the hooks and also prepare the traveler ring for the jib rigging.  The traveler ring has both a shackle and a hook.  A simple version is shown on the plans but I will be using the traveler ring available "ready made" at Syren Ship Model Company.    It is ready to use right out of the package.  It has a 3/8" inside diameter.  They can be finicky things to make.
 
Now if I only remembered to slip one of these on the bowsprit before I finished the standing rigging!!!!   No worry though.   I will be able to assemble one in place.
 

 
Chuck

Thanks guys...
 
Yes Erik it is tough to photograph.   My simple point and shoot digital really distorts the images.   It gives that slight "fish bowl" effect around the perimeter and bends the image.   I am going to see if one of the guys in my club has a better camera.  I will take some photos with it to see if it improves.  I do like Mikes pictures and will ask him to bring his camera to the next workshop session at my shop.  We meet every month at my place to work on models together.  Its really great fun.

Today I finished the standing rigging.
 

 
Once the ratlines were done I only had to rig the topmast shrouds and the topmast stay.
 

 
Even though I have shown the topmast backstay on the plans,  I did not rig them.  I just wanted to show what they would look like.  Only under rare conditions were they used.  I have never seen a contemporary model with them rigged and the straps on the side of the hull are always left empty.  So I decided to follow suit.  I think it ruins the look of the model a bit as well and this is more in keeping with what everyone is used to seeing.
 

 

 

 
Next up I will start the running rigging.   Its getting close!!!!

Thats a great  method Druxey...thank You for that.  And thank you all for the nice comments and likes. 

Thank You guys.
 
Right you are Greg....Yes the outside shrouds are indeed square knots.  My bad for that omission  I will go back .and add that to the post to avoid confusion.

I added the sheer pole.  It is lashed to the outside of the shrouds above the deadeyes.  I painted it black but it could have been left natural also.  It is just a 1/32" x 1/32" strip with the edges rounded off a bit.
 
Then I started the ratlines with .012 rope.  You dont want to go heavy with these. The outside shrouds are simple square knots.  But I used clove hitches on each inside shrouds.  I urge folks to use them rather than simply tie a knot on all four shrouds.  The lines hang much better.  Its easy to do.
 

 

 
I used a card with both horizontal lines and lines to show the shrouds.  Its not enough to just use horizontal lines.   Having the shrouds drawn on the card will make it easier to watch your progress.  You dont want to gradually pull the shrouds in.  That hourglass shape for shrouds on a model is the kiss of death.  This helps you keep them straight and not pull them in as you progress.  I found it better to leave the ratlines a little loose rather than pull them tight and I try to shape them after its done.  
 

 
Only some watered down white glue was applied on the knots of the outer shrouds only.   The two inner shrouds have no glue at all.  I waited until a series of rows were complete so I could adjust them before adding the glue.  You can also see that I finally cut off all the loose ends at the belaying points after re-tensioning the lines and I added rope coils to the belaying points.
 

 
Now its time to start the ratlines on the starboard side.  Yay for me.  Merry Christmas everyone!!!
 
Chuck

Very nice....that is exactly how I will show the oars for my Royal Barge.....it looks great.

I am about to make the two yards for Cheerful and the center of each is eight sided.  So I am going to start with a square stick and then turn it into an Octagon.  I will round off the ends  and taper them afterwards.    I am using the 7/10/7 template to mark the stick so I can create the eight sided shape.  
 
When I was preparing my square stock I thought that everyone would probably benefit from the template I am using and created.   It will save you time so you dont have to make one.  Attached is a PDF template that is prepared with the correct ratios.   I have been using it all along to make the masts and other spars.  Its a very handy template to have.
 
seventenseven.pdf
 
Chuck

Shrouds are completed.  I also added the lower backstay on the port side.  The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32").   You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side.  It is built up from three laser cut layers.
 
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang.  The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head.  They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
 

 
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
 

 

Thanks...I will say this this, its a joy working in 1/4" scale.  You dont have to fight with such tiny parts and you get more detail.  But you have to have the room to work and display it.  Luckily this model is not that large since its just a cutter.   I will have to find a good home for it once its done though...not much room to display the finished cased model. 

Thank You guys.
 
The thimbles are made from thin wall brass tube.  In this case 1.5 mm brass tube.  I tap them with a blunt point as shown in this image.  Not to hard.  The brass is soft and the thimbles will tear.  They will also stretch larger in dia. and become thinner than you cut the original length.
 
Here are some close ups of my thimbles thus far in use on the model.  Also note the thimble not yet punched to flare its ends in that first photo.  See how much longer and smaller it is.  Hooks are shaped from 26 gauge black wire.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

Thank You very much
 
I basically use a lot of simple square knots.  I try not to complicate things.  Half the battle is using the right sized line.  As soon as time allows I will try and put something together.
 
Chuck

Very nice....that is exactly how I will show the oars for my Royal Barge.....it looks great.

I came across some photos of a contemporary model that had the oars mounted on racks on the port and starboard sides of the hull.  This appealed to me, so I thought I'd give it a try.  Made out of brass flat stock and wire, the assemblies were soldered together with Stay-Brite Solder.  My version is not as ornate, but I really didn't want them to be.
 



 
Here are a few photos showing four oars temporarily in position.  These will probably be the last pieces I mount permanently.
 
BobF
 

I took a little break from the head work to assemble the Syren  wheel kit I purchased. This is one little gem, and I do mean LITTLE. The span across the spokes is less than an inch. Chuck has done a fantastic job engineering this kit and I can't recommend it highly enough. The online instructions are very clear and well illustrated. The spokes were a bit of challenge, but there are plenty provided and I chose the best of the lot after turning them. I used the kit parts as a template for the pedestals, made them from boxwood and made them a bit thinner and finer in the process. The barrel is a turned piece of boxwood. 
 


 
Again, BUY THIS WHEEL KIT!!!   
 
Oh, and here's the PE part Caldecraft supplies. Presented without comment...
 

If not out at sea,  the loose ends are belayed to a cleat which would be convenient.  But if out at sea, the boom would need to swing freely so many contemporary models have the two loose ends belayed to the boom itself.  This is also shown on many contemporary paintings as well like the ones shown.
 

 

 

 

 
 

If not out at sea,  the loose ends are belayed to a cleat which would be convenient.  But if out at sea, the boom would need to swing freely so many contemporary models have the two loose ends belayed to the boom itself.  This is also shown on many contemporary paintings as well like the ones shown.
 

 

 

 

 
 

If not out at sea,  the loose ends are belayed to a cleat which would be convenient.  But if out at sea, the boom would need to swing freely so many contemporary models have the two loose ends belayed to the boom itself.  This is also shown on many contemporary paintings as well like the ones shown.
 

 

 

 

 
 

If not out at sea,  the loose ends are belayed to a cleat which would be convenient.  But if out at sea, the boom would need to swing freely so many contemporary models have the two loose ends belayed to the boom itself.  This is also shown on many contemporary paintings as well like the ones shown.
 

 

 

 

 
 

I am about to make the two yards for Cheerful and the center of each is eight sided.  So I am going to start with a square stick and then turn it into an Octagon.  I will round off the ends  and taper them afterwards.    I am using the 7/10/7 template to mark the stick so I can create the eight sided shape.  
 
When I was preparing my square stock I thought that everyone would probably benefit from the template I am using and created.   It will save you time so you dont have to make one.  Attached is a PDF template that is prepared with the correct ratios.   I have been using it all along to make the masts and other spars.  Its a very handy template to have.
 
seventenseven.pdf
 
Chuck

Mike
 
You will have to show me when you drop by the shop.   Today I am preparing to start the running rigging.  The first thing I did was make all of the hooks and also prepare the traveler ring for the jib rigging.  The traveler ring has both a shackle and a hook.  A simple version is shown on the plans but I will be using the traveler ring available "ready made" at Syren Ship Model Company.    It is ready to use right out of the package.  It has a 3/8" inside diameter.  They can be finicky things to make.
 
Now if I only remembered to slip one of these on the bowsprit before I finished the standing rigging!!!!   No worry though.   I will be able to assemble one in place.
 

 
Chuck

Al
 
Unfortunately I cant add to an order already submitted.  Its protection for you and your CC's are deleted immediately after the order is finalized.
 
This is how the traveler ring looks after rigging it.  The jibsail and foresail rigging is now completed.  All that remains to rig are the two yards....once I make them.   That will complete the rigging and then its the final stretch with a few additional details....anchors....flag....boarding ropes......and she is officially done. 
 

 

Today I finished the standing rigging.
 

 
Once the ratlines were done I only had to rig the topmast shrouds and the topmast stay.
 

 
Even though I have shown the topmast backstay on the plans,  I did not rig them.  I just wanted to show what they would look like.  Only under rare conditions were they used.  I have never seen a contemporary model with them rigged and the straps on the side of the hull are always left empty.  So I decided to follow suit.  I think it ruins the look of the model a bit as well and this is more in keeping with what everyone is used to seeing.
 

 

 

 
Next up I will start the running rigging.   Its getting close!!!!