Chuck

Thank you 
 
I do have more images though.......and a couple of contemporary drafts.   But yes it was done both ways.
 

 

Thanks...
 
No its correct....there was never a one size fits all for these things.   Some had alternating holes and others had them as I have designed it.  And as Jan points out,  there is the example above from the NMM.  I have also seen other contemporary models that show them like this too.
 
There was always some variation on the same.  The good news is...should you decide to build her,  you could absolutely change it to what you believe is correct.  That is why it wont be a kit but released as a scratch project.  
 
I am 100% confident that the Windlass is correctly designed and portrayed.  Not that there arent other configurations that would work as well.
 
Chuck

Thanks...
 
No its correct....there was never a one size fits all for these things.   Some had alternating holes and others had them as I have designed it.  And as Jan points out,  there is the example above from the NMM.  I have also seen other contemporary models that show them like this too.
 
There was always some variation on the same.  The good news is...should you decide to build her,  you could absolutely change it to what you believe is correct.  That is why it wont be a kit but released as a scratch project.  
 
I am 100% confident that the Windlass is correctly designed and portrayed.  Not that there arent other configurations that would work as well.
 
Chuck

Thanks...
 
No its correct....there was never a one size fits all for these things.   Some had alternating holes and others had them as I have designed it.  And as Jan points out,  there is the example above from the NMM.  I have also seen other contemporary models that show them like this too.
 
There was always some variation on the same.  The good news is...should you decide to build her,  you could absolutely change it to what you believe is correct.  That is why it wont be a kit but released as a scratch project.  
 
I am 100% confident that the Windlass is correctly designed and portrayed.  Not that there arent other configurations that would work as well.
 
Chuck

Thanks...
 
No its correct....there was never a one size fits all for these things.   Some had alternating holes and others had them as I have designed it.  And as Jan points out,  there is the example above from the NMM.  I have also seen other contemporary models that show them like this too.
 
There was always some variation on the same.  The good news is...should you decide to build her,  you could absolutely change it to what you believe is correct.  That is why it wont be a kit but released as a scratch project.  
 
I am 100% confident that the Windlass is correctly designed and portrayed.  Not that there arent other configurations that would work as well.
 
Chuck

Chuck, what an amazing project you have going ! Simply beautiful !
 
A note on heat... I have used only heat when bending strips for kayak building.... Rather than me trying to describe it, Here is a link ( source that I learned from ).....
It is midway down the "shop tips" page.
 
http://www.laughingloon.com/shop.tips.html
 
 
Maybe others will find some of this info useful !
 
 
Cheers,
 
Joe

Thanks...
 
No its correct....there was never a one size fits all for these things.   Some had alternating holes and others had them as I have designed it.  And as Jan points out,  there is the example above from the NMM.  I have also seen other contemporary models that show them like this too.
 
There was always some variation on the same.  The good news is...should you decide to build her,  you could absolutely change it to what you believe is correct.  That is why it wont be a kit but released as a scratch project.  
 
I am 100% confident that the Windlass is correctly designed and portrayed.  Not that there arent other configurations that would work as well.
 
Chuck

Thanks...Yes indeed I do
 
But it all gets done eventually.   I really like coffee.
 
Chuck

Today I laser cut the bulkheads and false keel from 1/4' thick ply.  It was comforting that the laser cutter will have no problem cutting through this thickness of ply.  That is really good.  Normally you will see 3/16" thick bulkheads.  I have started to use the thicker stuff in my latest designs.  I think it really helps with the stability and strength of the hull.  Its just a better thickness to go with in my opinion if you choose POB.    When you no longer have to worry about mass production and kit MFG profit vs. loss,  you are free to do these things.  Its a great feeling and in the end make the modeling experience so much better.
 
The parts fit really well.  You can see how large in comparison to the Winnie in the background.  I made the bulkhead former in two pieces as you can see.  I think its important to make these in shorter lengths.  If they are too long they have a tendency to warp and bend.  The slots cut for the bulkheads makes this even more of a problem.  It helps the warping become even worse.  You will also notice the many, many bulkheads.  I have added a picture of the Sherbourne cutter by Caldercraft for comparison of design.  With bulkheads that far apart the planking is going to be tough.  
 
Chuck
 

 

 

Thanks...
 
No its correct....there was never a one size fits all for these things.   Some had alternating holes and others had them as I have designed it.  And as Jan points out,  there is the example above from the NMM.  I have also seen other contemporary models that show them like this too.
 
There was always some variation on the same.  The good news is...should you decide to build her,  you could absolutely change it to what you believe is correct.  That is why it wont be a kit but released as a scratch project.  
 
I am 100% confident that the Windlass is correctly designed and portrayed.  Not that there arent other configurations that would work as well.
 
Chuck

This will mark the beginning of my project to build the prototype for the Cutter Cheerful.  The plans are completed and I am getting ready to release the plans in a few months.  I will be building her out of Boxwood or possibly even Pau marfin.  I havent decided.  This project is a POB build as you can see from the details in the plans posted below.  Its not a very cumbersome project with just a cutter rig to deal with.  She is carvel planked and not Clinker planked.  This is one of the reasons why I chose it as a subject.
 
Once I have the skeleton built and the hull planked,  the plans will be released. The remainder of the project is pretty straight forward and doesnt need much of an explanation.  I just need to prove out the design concepts for the hull skeleton.  It shouldnt take too long.  I will be writing a monograph as I build her and posting it on my website for free download as well as here on MSW should folks want to read it.  But as I stated,  I wont need to finish the entire project to release the plans as they are really straight forward.  At a 1/4" scale...the hull will be 28 inches long and 26" tall.  A nice size yet built at a larger scale to show some great details.  
 
I am finally at a point with the Syren store where my inventory is quite full and I will be able to enjoy working on both the Winnie and the Cheerful for several hours each day.  I just cant wait to get started.  Having a laser cutter doesnt hurt either.  It will save me much time.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

Got the counter and the transom planked.  You may notice that I thinned down the outside stern frames considerably before planking the stern.  The first photo shows how thick they were before it was planked.  After the sides of the hull were planked the outside stern frames were strong enough to handle the thinning down.  It makes the model more historically correct.  The inboard side of the stern and counter will not be planked so I wanted to make sure it looked as authentic as possible.  That of course means that I must really clean up the inboard side between the stern frames carefully to prepare it for painting.   I will fill any cracks and sand it smooth and do lots of surface prep.
 
Now I can have some fun.  Its time to put the fashion pieces on and the wales and fancy trim.  This is the step that will make it really come together.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

 

Well that is very interesting.    Thank you Sjors.  I have printed it and will stick the printout in the model so when I am ready to restore her I at least have a starting point.
 
Here is the model in question by the way.  I havent had time to give it a thorough researching yet.  That is a big help.  The name on the back is "Margareta" or "St. Margarethen"
 
Chuck
 

 

I was able to shape the fashion pieces today.  They are will be in one piece with the boom crutch added separately later.  The boom crutches wont be added until the cap rail is added way down the road.   For now I just left them extra long so I can file them back to where I want them. You can see in the photo how the bottom fashion piece was bent using heat.....no water or soaking.  The top one is the flat 1/16" thick piece which has not been bent yet.
 
Once these were glued on the model,   the second layer of the wales (two strakes) were added and painted.  I still have to paint them on the other side.  After thats done I will treenail above the wales.  That will be easier to do before I add the fancy molding along the sides of the hull per the plan.
 
Notice how the fashion piece covers the end grain of the planks on the stern transom.  When the stern is all done there shouldnt be any end-grain exposed for any of the planking.  The fashion piece and square tuck protect them from the elements.
 

 

 

 

Almost forgot.....looking for some second opinions.   I am thinking about painting the lower counter and leaving the transom natural.  Like the Surly contemporary model.  What do you think?   Maybe blue....but not this bright.   Is it too much?  Maybe leave it all natural back there?
 
You will also note how the Surly had the bulwarks cut down which is why the transom is a funky shape.  This was done during a refit long after the Cheerful was already gone.  Cheerful didnt last too long.   Maybe I will switch and call her the Surly....I am not feeling too cheerful today..
 
Chuck
 

 

Got the counter and the transom planked.  You may notice that I thinned down the outside stern frames considerably before planking the stern.  The first photo shows how thick they were before it was planked.  After the sides of the hull were planked the outside stern frames were strong enough to handle the thinning down.  It makes the model more historically correct.  The inboard side of the stern and counter will not be planked so I wanted to make sure it looked as authentic as possible.  That of course means that I must really clean up the inboard side between the stern frames carefully to prepare it for painting.   I will fill any cracks and sand it smooth and do lots of surface prep.
 
Now I can have some fun.  Its time to put the fashion pieces on and the wales and fancy trim.  This is the step that will make it really come together.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

 

The planking above the wales is basically completed.  Just a few more planks to add on the port side as you can see.  I didnt bother simulating the caulking between the seams where it wont show.  So it looks a bit weird now.  But once the molding and second layer of the wales is added it will look fine.
 
You can only see a few places with a crisp line for the seams.  This was done by running a number two pencil down one plank edge.  If I did this on both plank edges it would have been too pronounced for my tastes.
 
I will plank the transom and counter next at the stern.  Its an interesting detail that in case of a cutter like this you dont plank the stern counter first.   The transom and counter are planked after the sides of the hull.   The exposed end-grain of the counter planking and transom planking will be protected from the elements and rot by the fashion pieces.   You can see them in the profile drawing.  So you will not see any of the end grain from the planking.  The frame for the square tuck also does this for the end grain of the planks.  Its an interesting feature and I almost forgot NOT to plank the counter first.  It is something I am so accustomed to doing.
 
Before I plank the stern transom and counter I have some shaping of the outer stern frames to do.  I will post pictures of this as well because its an important feature to keeping the finished model looking accurate.  So far its coming together quite well without any real issues.  Its a fun build so far.  You can start to see the final shape of the cutter come to life as the planking progresses.  I know the bulwarks look thick at this point but they will actually be thinned down quite a bit soon.  The outboard and inboard planking at the sheer was actually just 1 1/2" thick....once its planked inboard and out the final width will be just 1/8 - 5/32" thick at the most.   Closer to 1/8" thick I hope.
 

 

 

Thanks guys
 
Rusty it will be basically the same.  Except in this case the original planking expansion did show one drop plank at the bow.  I am basically replicating that draft exactly.  So I will include that drop plank and then divide the bottom of the hull into belts.   But only two this time.   Then I will line off the hull before moving forward with the planking.
 
Heres what the hull looks like after those two planks were added between the molding and the wales.  I only darkened the seams where it will eventually be noticed.  This helps if I need to tweak the placement of the second layer for the wales and molding.   Without the seams darker its easier to move the second layer without folks noticing.
 
You will notice the darker wales.  This was just a sheet of boxwood I had that was noticeable darker.  I figured what the heck,  I might as well use it for the wales.  Its going to be painted anyway.  It also helps me visualize the run of the wales as I plank above them.
 

I started the planking today.  This always begins with placing battens on the hull.  The top of the batten represents the bottom edge of the wales.  I really spent a lot of time on these because it will establish the run of all of the planks on the hull.
 

 
It was added to both sides so I can check it from every conceivable angle.  Once I was satisfied I planked the wales with two strips.  This will be the first layer.  After I plank the hull from here up to the sheer,  I will come back and add the final layer.  Its a hold over from my time building kits.  I like the idea of being able to make small adjustments with the run of the wales on the final layer.  Since it will be painted black and this isnt the final layer it laid down in one long strip rather than in 25 foot long pieces.
 
Now on most ships you can just start planking from the wales up...the run of the wales determines the run of the planking above it to the sheer.  Mostly anyway.
 
In this case however it isnt true.  It is again one of the reasons I chose the Cheerful.  Its not difficult work at all but requires careful planning.  If you examine the plan for the cheerful you will see the run of two moldings just under and through the gunports.   I was fortunate to have the original draft for teh planking expansion and my model will follow it exactly.  The same number of strakes and their run are precisely copied from it.  The space between this molding and the wales is not consistent.   So I decided to add the 1/16" strip first which for the most part runs right under the ports, leaving a 1/64" rabbet along the bottom of each port.
 

 
Then I divided up that space between the molding strip and the wales equally so I can taper these two strakes that will fit between them.  You may be able to see my tick marks defining the space and strakes on each bulkhead.
 

 
The molding strip is just the first layer also....Once its all done I will come back and add the final layer after scraping the fancy profile into it.    Once again, having a little wiggle room to adjust teh run of the molding later is a huge plus.
 
Then its just a matter of finishing the planking and other molding strip as I work my way up to the sheer.
 
Chuck

I managed to finish the skeleton for Cheerful today.  So its now ready for planking.  The stern framing was pretty standard although the design concept was modified for the square tuck.  This is a feature that is rarely shown correctly on these cutters.  There are some pretty complex angles.  Its hard to tell in the images but the square tuck is not flat and completely perpendicular to the keel.  It has a slight convex curve as it works its way from the center outward.   
 
It isnt complete yet.  The actual framed square tuck will be added after the sides of the hull are planked.  Its probably the trickiest part on the model but I simplified it quite bit as far as the construction is concerned.  But when its done it should look exactly like the real thing.  Thats my hope anyway.  The first image shows the Rogers collection model with its square tuck.   The frame around the vertical planking will be added after the hull is completely planked.  Then I will fill it in with the vertical planks.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

 

Thank you.  Its a tough thing to describe in writing.  It is so much easier to demo it.  That was a good idea about doing another demo at next years conference.  I will talk it over with the guys.  I actually did one for my local club members.  I just showed them how to prepare the surface and paint a solid color without brush strokes.  What brushes to use and how to paint a straight line without using tape.
 
When I was in college I had to take an entire course in color theory where we had to paint 2" x 2" square swatches of solid color.  Th e teacher was rough to say the least.  If the painted swatch wasnt completely flat without brush strokes and perfectly even color you would fail.   I can only now see where that class had a purpose that was worthwhile so many years later.   I had to paint hundreds and hundreds of swatches.  Oh the memories of art school.
 
Anyway,  after spending hours cleaning the shop,  I had a chance to cut those forward ports.  I used a scroll saw blade that I snipped a small length off off.  I placed it in my hobby blade handle and used it to cut out the ports.  You can see it in the photo.  Then it was a matter of refining the sides of the port opening with files and chisels.   This was to try and get straight sides and sharp corners.
 

 
Then I wanted to do a quick preliminary fairing inboard at the bow.  I didnt want to look at that disgusting thick bow with all the laser char as I planked the hull.   You can look at earlier pics to see just how thick it was.  I used a sanding drum in my dremel to cut down the thickness to around 1/8" thick at the bow.  It needs much more attention and will eventually be thinner.  But its easier for me to look at now as I work on other areas.
 

 

 
Tomorrow I will start framing the stern permanently.  Then its on to planking.  You will see how rough and uneven the inboard side of the bulwarks look.  I wasnt careful about how uneven the pieces of wood stuck out on that side.  As long as they were deep enough to faired later I didnt care.  I will take the sanding drum to it after the outboard planking is done and it wont take long to make it all look nice and clean.   You can start to see that taking shape at the bow after just the preliminary thin-down.  The stern frames are still just taped into place temporarily.   You can see how they are let into slots in the two last bulkheads.  It makes proper placement a lot easier.

Thanks Guys....
 
Tom,  I will bring her to the meeting tonight along with the plans to show our Jersey Club Members.  Its bring a model night!!!!
 
I finished framing the port openings in Boxwood.  I used the reference line from the batten to mark to top of the gunport sills.    They should paint nicely because they are all boxwood.  Unlike the first port which will be cut from ply fillers.  You can see it marked in pencil.  I am about to cut it out right now.  I also laser cut and tested the stern frames.   They are not glued in yet.  Its just a test and all looks good.  It helps make the shape of this little cutter come to life.  I will begin permanently framing the stern as soon as I cut those two forward ports.  Before painting them I will prepare the surface with wood filler or even gesso to smooth it out.  This creates a nice surface to paint on after its sanded with a very fine sandpaper.
 

 

I absolutely agree and I thought the same thing.  BUT....then I found these.  All contemporary and from the same time period.  I have dozens more with and without port lids.  I guess we shall never know.  I will add the rabbet......and have no lids.  That is a safe bet I think.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

As I am about to start framing the ports,  I would like to have a bit of a discussion about the.  Please feel free to chime in if this is something you are familiar with.   I have seen cutters with and without port lids in paintings and drawings.  I am talking about 1800-1830ish.   My issue is that I have never or rarely seen a contemporary model or set of plans with port lids. I am already resolved not to show them on Cheerful.
 
BUT,  that leads to my question.   On many contemporary models I can see the rabbet around the port opening.  On others still there is no rabbet.  I can only assume there wasnt and standard with this.   Maybe some sort of buckler was used rather than a port lid.  But then why some models without a rabbet.
 
I have yet to decide if I should show this feature of a rabbet around the sides and bottom of the port openings.
 
Cheerful in the rogers collection has them
 

 
This contemporary model does not...except at the bottom maybe...
 

 
All of the others from this period that I have seen have no rabbets.
 
Any thoughts or research out there to help me in my decision?  Thanks in advance.

Today I wanted to get the crappy part out of the way.  What a mess.  Fairing the outside of the hull before  I start putting in the port sills.
 
Lots  of saw dust.  You folks are very familiar with this.  Even with a smaller hull it took the whole day.  This is the single most important part of the project.  Unfortunately because its such a pain its easy to understand why people rush through it only to have issues later on.
 
At the bow is the usual "Bow filler piece"  and a few horizontal pieces which is where the forward port will reside.  Fairing the bow was challenging.  Whenever you think its done...its really not.  This is easy to spot using a batten.  I dont angle my rabbet for the planking until this stage.  And its important.  Most folks angle the rabbet before gluing the bulkheads into the former.  But I can never get the angles right.  Its easier for me to visualize when fairing the bow and inserting battens every now and again to see how they fit.
 
Before fairing
 

 
After a good start at fairing the bow.  Notice how the bulkhead former within the rabbet is faired to match the angle of the bow filler after its faired.  If you dont do this then the plank wont fit nicely into the rabbet and defeats the purpose of having one to begin with.  This is what takes lots of time.  Small chisels nd sanding sticks...the usual suspects to do it.  I am using the laser char on the bulkhead edges to check how the fairing is progressing as I work towards mid ship.  Then I switch around and work from the stern to midship again to complete the fairing.
 

 

 
Here are some battens added to check the run of the port sills.  There are laser reference marks on each bulkhead as is usually the case.  After some careful adjustments the top of the batten was marked off on each bulkhead edge to indicate the top of the port sills.  Notice how the batten fits into the rabbet and because of how its faired,  I didnt have to even pre bend this strip.  It lays in there perfectly and no pins are used to hold it in the rabbet.  That will make planking so much easier.....which would have been a fight if I didnt take my time with this fairing.  I am gald its all done,  but I can still see some spots...
 

 

 

 
Tomorrow I will add the port sills and port framing before starting on the stern framing.