Chuck

Its gonna be a while until I build up some stock....but "Chucky Blocks" are coming soon.       
 
 
Lets take  a look.   
 
Model Expo price for 3/32" single blocks 100 QTY = $20  You know what these look like 
Lloyd's price ..................................................... = $35
Jerzy's price - 2 mm .......................................... = $45
My price in boxwood will be ............................... = $27
 
Expo blocks compared to Warner's blocks below
 

 
My blocks compared to Jerzy;s (Jerzy's on the right) 2mm
 

 
And another shot of my 2mm blocks...the single blocks on the right have no finish on them yet the doubles have some wipe-on-poly.  This is an old image that doesnt show any strop groove.  I will have to take some new pics once I start up production.  These were basically my tests....I have made some adjustments (sheave slots wider slightly so the holes for rigging can be larger).
 

 
Hopefully soon.....depending on how much interest in this there is out there. 
 

Here you go guys....some contemporary examples.  Yes I used the model in the Rogers collection as my basis for rigging the tiller but you can use these also.  Here are two more contemporary models that show a similar approach.  Note: that even though the tiller is longer on the  Rogers collection model, have a look at how the tiller rigging interferes with the last carronade in its port.  After reviewing several other options,  I thought it more important to make sure the rigging for the tiller is clear of the last carronade.  On Syren and on Argus,  the configurartion wouldnt have worked without making the last carronade useless in action.
 
But yes...the two blocks on the deck below the wheel should be added.  I omitted them for two reasons.  I found a good example in the lightley model which shows it that way...I knew folks would have access to it.  The blocks supplied in the kit are huge as you know.  They would have looked so out of scale and clunky that I took the aesthetic route and omitted them.  If there were any kit builders that didnt take the time to reshape their blocks and just used the square ones supplied....it would have looked absolutely horrific.
 
The tiller is actually much too long on the Lightly model as well.  It didnt match up with Chapelle's draft for the Argus or the Syren.  I used his reconstruction for the inboard works with the help of English original drafts (raven and others) and contemporary models.  Look at how far forward Lightly placed the ship's wheel.  I saw no evidence on any other draft that this was done.  Compare it to the English models.  I also wanted to include the binnacle which Lightly had no place for since he moved the wheel so far forward.  He has it lined up with the second port as compared to the way it is shown on the English drafts and contemporary models.

To complete the model...the grapnel was painted and rigged. I made mine from scratch using boxwood.  I think they replaced the one in the kit with a cast metal version they had in stock,  It was added to the model so the rope looked natural.  I made some oars and placed them in there as well.  They were just cut from a 1/16" sheet and the handles rounded off.  Then they were painted.
 
That is essentially the end of the project.
 
Chuck 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then the stays and rigging were added at the bow.  This pretty much finished it up.  Last was teh flag halliard.
 
 

Here you go guys....some contemporary examples.  Yes I used the model in the Rogers collection as my basis for rigging the tiller but you can use these also.  Here are two more contemporary models that show a similar approach.  Note: that even though the tiller is longer on the  Rogers collection model, have a look at how the tiller rigging interferes with the last carronade in its port.  After reviewing several other options,  I thought it more important to make sure the rigging for the tiller is clear of the last carronade.  On Syren and on Argus,  the configurartion wouldnt have worked without making the last carronade useless in action.
 
But yes...the two blocks on the deck below the wheel should be added.  I omitted them for two reasons.  I found a good example in the lightley model which shows it that way...I knew folks would have access to it.  The blocks supplied in the kit are huge as you know.  They would have looked so out of scale and clunky that I took the aesthetic route and omitted them.  If there were any kit builders that didnt take the time to reshape their blocks and just used the square ones supplied....it would have looked absolutely horrific.
 
The tiller is actually much too long on the Lightly model as well.  It didnt match up with Chapelle's draft for the Argus or the Syren.  I used his reconstruction for the inboard works with the help of English original drafts (raven and others) and contemporary models.  Look at how far forward Lightly placed the ship's wheel.  I saw no evidence on any other draft that this was done.  Compare it to the English models.  I also wanted to include the binnacle which Lightly had no place for since he moved the wheel so far forward.  He has it lined up with the second port as compared to the way it is shown on the English drafts and contemporary models.

Because its not on the Model Expo site yet....After many requests here it is by chapter

 

Introduction 

 

Chapter 1 

 

Chapter 2 

 

Chapter 3 

 

Chapter 4 

 

Chapter 5 

 

Chapter 6

 

Chapter 7 

 

Chapter 8

 

Chapter 9

 

Chapter 10

 

Chapter 11

 

Chapter 12

 

Chapter 13

 

Chapter 14 

 

Chapter 15

 

Chapter 16

 

Chapter 17

 

Chapter 18

 

Chapter 19

 

   THE END    

Bone model of HMY 1749 Caroline M 1: 50

    I asked for a little patience so I can write something to the building report chronologically.

    Now that I have already reported in other forums  Caroline I would like to read the report and hopefully entertaining to bring on  PC

    Let's start with the planning.

   In the year  1988, While visiting the "Hestorisch Sheep ride Museeum" in Amsterdam, I see a very strange looking white model held in a French frigate. The tiny carvings fascinate me.
    My wife: OOOOOH ... so one I would also like to have! I: you shall have .....

    In the following years! I collect everything that is there to have bone vessels and bone processing.

    For model prove only the leg bones of bovine animals. (Upper and lower leg, called tubes or bone marrow) as ideal, because the density and strength is optimal. All other ... Ribs, shoulder, skull, etc. are too porous and brittle.

    The preparation of the bone.

    For the construction of Caroline to start about 400 tubes are required! This massive amount you will not get the butcher of his confidence but only at the slaughterhouse.
    A tube is [without joints] about 160 - 180 mm long. Weight 200g
    The tubes must be boiled at high temperatures to remove the marrow and cook again. I have poured over the cooking time about 500l best Mark soup down the sink ..
    Then with muuuch Cleaningsalt 3 - 5 times through the dishwasher [highest rinsing] and then let dry. (About 3 years!)
    The first drying cycle was completed on the balcony (the bone Always nice hanging in direct sunlight).

    My neighbors loved it ...... Except for one!!!

    Just imagine the following situation.
    My wife was in the hot phase of the bonecooking in court on govermenthighschool. The City "Hof" is about 200 kilometers from Augsburg (whre we live). She stayed there during the week from Monday to Friday. The course lasted 3 years and in that time my wife wasnt seen for many neighbors anymore. I was at this time full-time home with three little children. (whatisayhiswifeisrunnawaynowonderlookthisman) were still the nicest rumors.
    Suddenly my balcony was full of bone depends on a cord strung out to dry

    One day, it rings the doorbell ........ I open and behold, two "Chipmunks" are coming up. I quote again: Good day how are you, (well, thank you), we were just in the area can we comein ...... ?? (Clear, like .. please enter) -.  my daughters hunting the cat and run the state power almost overboard --- your children are so happy ...canwepleasetalktoyourwife? (No that is prevented) one of the two in backgrond mutters "that i belive" The first again: we want now, please talk with your wife. (I said it is prevented)
    Meanwhile, we all go to the kitchen. From my kitchen is access to the balcony and there one can see the tremendous amount of bone hanging from a beam.
    Both chipmunks pale and call me an ultimativ to say where´s my wife!!
    I have tell the men from the police to the residence of my wife and the reason could be solved without the most accurate information that can be called my wife, perhaps as a cow but is unlikely to achieve this amount of bone in a single body.
    The two left my apartment rather monosyllabic

    The dried and assorted bones are now halved lengthwise on a bandsaw.
(My boss wanted to know where my wife is ).

    These shells can now, as required in planks, 4 square timbers or other basic blanks are processed.

    This was just the beginning.


    Soon we will start with the foundation
 


    Until then ....... Freeguard leave .....
 
 
greetings
 
Robert

Another very satisfied Model Machines customer checking in.
 
Like many people, I work hard for my money and try to not spend it frivolously. When I first started building and was looking for tools I kept hearing about Jim Byrnes and Model Machines but when I looked at the prices I thought they were out of my price range so I bought cheaper. Big mistake. Over time I got to see and use some of Jim’s machines and realized that price differential was nothing compared to what you got for the extra money.
 
I had purchased a drawplate someplace else and right away I found that as the diameters got smaller the accuracy got worse and worse until it got to the point where some of the smallest holes actually had a larger diameter than some of the “bigger” holes. Even still I figured I could make it work. At some point someone let me try Jim’s drawplate. WOW, what a difference. Yes, it’s just a piece of metal but it is a very precisely engineered piece of metal. I decided that it was worth it to upgrade. As noted elsewhere on MSW, Jim’s drawplate even comes with directions and care instructions. It is a simple concept beautifully executed. I did not discard my old drawplate, it sits on my bench and I use it as a paperweight and in that function it works perfectly. It is a constant reminder that even relatively simple things can be done extremely poorly or conversely as in the case of a Byrnes’s machine, extremely well.
 
My next Byrnes purchase was the disk sander. As with the drawplate I got to use it before I purchased it. Being slightly older now and a bit wiser about smaller tools I thought twice about buying something cheaper and did not hesitate to buy the Byrnes sander. It has seen some heavy use since it arrived last week and I could not be happier. The accuracy you can get using one of Jim’s sanders can’t be duplicated on other, somewhat cheaper machines.
 
Customer service as noted by others is on a par with their machines, the best in the business.

Before I used index cards to make 'things'. I used them to cut strips, paint them black and added them to make various metal brackets.

 
Then I found out that to use the stiffer, smoother paper used in photography printing actually works better. There is no fuzz, no ragged edges, etc.  Now I save a few old prints, not for sentimental reasons, but to use them for metal brackets.
I cut a sliver off, paint the back side and  . . .. 

Have finally made some progress on my longboat build.
 
The windless has been completed and installed. To this point I have used kit materials for the build, but decided to use boxwood for the windless barrel. I think I got much sharper edges with the boxwood. The rails that mount the windless are not vertical , so I added mounting pads to the rails. I have seen this feature in photos of contemporary drawings and models. The handle is made from a piece of 3/64 inch square pear.
 

 
Next the mast was made so the final seat with mast support hardware could be completed. I wanted to install real sheavs in the mast so the three slots were cut. The mast was then tapered to final size.
 

 
The next photo is of the mast with the block support bands installed. The bands were created of kit brass strip. The strip was annealed and formed arround the mast. The ends were silver soldered together and the hole fof attaching the block drilled. They were then epoxied in place.
 

 
 
The final seat with mast support hardware was completed and installed. The seats will be colored with some very dilute golden oak stain to help accent the scribed lines.
 

 
 
Mike
 
 
 

The mast and the bowsprit have been made .  There are three "sheaves" in the mast and one at the end of the bowsprit.  I used an archival pen for the black areas on the masts.  The ink is supposed to be alcohol based and so hopefully it will not bleed when the Watco's is applied to the clear part of the spars.  The ball truck has two "sheaves" in it and is temporarily installed.  I do not have any metal crafting supplies or a torch with me so the bands will be added later.  For the same reason, the bowsprit is tack-glued on to the rail, without its metalwork.
 

Masting Update:
 
After acquiring the requisite diminutive drill bits I was able to continue towards completion of the longboat, but I must admit, that this phase is completely alien to me, as I have always given rigging a wide berth on any plastic kit that I have ever worked on..  And I am finding the learning curve on seizing blocks, and making sure that lines run straight to be rather steep.  After the first round I am happy with how the mast and bow spirit came out, but the sheet tackle needs reworked.  I knew it wasn't going to work right when I first seized the block to the horse, which didn't sit right.  So I will be re-doing that part in the near future.
 
One tip that I can perhaps pass on, a helpful to me, trick for getting the holes through the brass mast fittings.  Even with an awl, I was at first having problems with getting the necessary sized hole in the fitting.  So, I made the fitting wider by striking it with a small hammer.  I didn't need to work it very much because the brass is soft. but it gave me some extra room to work.  Once the hole was drilled, and the CA set, I ground the excess material off with a rotary tool.

Ok folks...the registration form has been added to the bottom of the page...
 
http://www.thenrg.org/2013-nrg-charleston-conference-details.php
 
Dont forget to book your hotel separately...and use the code for the conference discount.
 
Chuck 

So if wider sheets of wood are required for spilling, why don't kits come with some sheets? It seems odd to me that they don't. It also seems that for your planking to look good and proper you must use the spilling technique?
 
Aaron

Bob and Chuck,
 
    I wish to Thank both of your for the more advance tutorial and presentation ( I think it was the presentation that did it ) on planking this way. Chuck I had talk with you some about this the last time I saw you but we never got to finish the talk, now this has finished what I was not able to go over with you. Thanks for the help, both of you.

Bob
 
Wonderful photos.
 
That is exactly how I plank a hull...works a treat and saves a lot of wood. ... Instead of cutting the shaped plank from a wider sheet which ends up with to many scrap pieces.  Great demo on the technique.  With the strip clamped up,  I use a hair dryer on the hottest setting to quickly heat and dry the plank.  You can get really close to the plank so it gets really hot. After about two minutes of that, I let the strip rest for another few minutes.  This locks in the bend with minimal spring-back.  
 
Chuck

Chuck -
 
I'll definitely try it with my next model.  This is going to make my club spiling presentation obsolete!  That's OK though, it was really too long to begin with.
 
Bob

Bob
 
Wonderful photos.
 
That is exactly how I plank a hull...works a treat and saves a lot of wood. ... Instead of cutting the shaped plank from a wider sheet which ends up with to many scrap pieces.  Great demo on the technique.  With the strip clamped up,  I use a hair dryer on the hottest setting to quickly heat and dry the plank.  You can get really close to the plank so it gets really hot. After about two minutes of that, I let the strip rest for another few minutes.  This locks in the bend with minimal spring-back.  
 
Chuck

Now that I no longer have to contend with the false keel, and I have a couple of planks glued to the transom, I've decided to change my approach as far as shaping the planks is concerned. You may recall that before gluing a completed plank in place, I used it as a template for the next plank.  This procedure, at least, got me in the ballpark. For the rest of the model, I'm going to use the "Magic Tape" method, which works pretty well, especially in a situation where you're trying to run one continuous strake from bow to stern.

I understand that some modelers duplicate the edge of the mounted plank by rubbing an impression in the tape, but I've found that a sharp pencil also works.  You don't have to press as hard, and since I'm working with basswood, that may be especially important.


The template you get from the rubbing may not be perfect, in fact mine rarely are, but they get you pretty close.

If I were spiling a plank for a larger model, I'd be using the concave part of the cutout.  However, since I'm edge-bending the planks, I'm going to use the convex portion as a guide.  The next two photos aren't pretty, but I think you get the idea.  The white pieces of paper under the clamps minimize the chance that the clamps will leave impressions in the soft basswood.  I'm using a sheet of glass as a base for this procedure because it's perfectly flat, impervious to water, and is quite thin, which allows me to use smaller clamps.


As suggested in the instructions, you can dry the plank with a hairdryer, or just leave it for a few hours, while you work on something else.

If the plank isn't quite right, I just dampen the area in question, and repeat the procedure.

I thought I would post these two images of a cross section model from the science museum.  I thought it might help or at least act as inspiration for those building teh cross section Triton.  What I find very pleasing is the change in the plank thickness.  Especially the outboard planking.  I have no idea which ship this is as I didnt write that down when I saved it.  It is one of hundreds of pictures I saved and now I am trying to organize. Based on what I see it may be a later vessel...but still worthy of inspiration.
 
Chuck

I thought I would post these two images of a cross section model from the science museum.  I thought it might help or at least act as inspiration for those building teh cross section Triton.  What I find very pleasing is the change in the plank thickness.  Especially the outboard planking.  I have no idea which ship this is as I didnt write that down when I saved it.  It is one of hundreds of pictures I saved and now I am trying to organize. Based on what I see it may be a later vessel...but still worthy of inspiration.
 
Chuck

I thought I would post these two images of a cross section model from the science museum.  I thought it might help or at least act as inspiration for those building teh cross section Triton.  What I find very pleasing is the change in the plank thickness.  Especially the outboard planking.  I have no idea which ship this is as I didnt write that down when I saved it.  It is one of hundreds of pictures I saved and now I am trying to organize. Based on what I see it may be a later vessel...but still worthy of inspiration.
 
Chuck

Capstans
 
The start of the Capstans. There are two of them - the Lower Capstan on the Upper Deck, and the Upper Capstan on the Quarterdeck above it. They are joined together between decks to work as one. I'm using English Box for all the components - some of them are quite small and require a very good timber.
 
The Lower Capstan Barrel has 10 flats milled into it to take 5 Whelps, and the Upper Capstan has 12 flats and 6 whelps. I decided to turn and mill both together for ease of setting up. They will be separated between decks for installation purposes.
 
I used the Dividing Attachment on my Sherline mill to cut the flats :
 

 

 
Then I turned down the centre portion :
 

 

 
I've also started making the Whelps. The ones for the Upper and Lower Capstans are of different sizes, there is also a corresponding difference in angles. I'm also using the Mill to cut the angles, with the aid of the Tilting Table :
 

 
  Danny

I have painted the cockpit and the hull exterior.  The most difficult part of painting the hull is getting a fair water line because of the tuck under the transom.  I have applied three coats of dilute white acrylic paint with a light sanding of 320 grit between coats.  I will apply a final coat just prior to mounting the mast.

Hello,
 
The book is still available from ANCRE. Delivery can be slow at times because Hubert Berti, the owner, takes off to Marakech when he feels like it and sometimes orders can back up for a few weeks. I was the co-publisher of the English version which was translated from the French by Paul Fontenoy of the North Carolina Maritime Museum. The book was so warmly received that it was subsequently translated into German, Spanish and Italian. It is one of the most popular modeling books ever done. If you can get a copy then grab it because when ANCRE's stock runs out I do not think there will be a reprint. It is too expensive and Mr. Berti is in his 80's
 
Bob Friedman