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Remcohe

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Posts posted by Remcohe

  1. Jan, the bottom of the rudder should be higher than the top of the false keel. Otherwise the false keel (if it comes of when hitting ground) would rip off the rudder in the process. The issue occurred when I marked the hight of the pintles using the pre cut slots on the sternpost. I should have noticed it then :( 

     

    Remco

  2. Thanks all for helping me to sort this out. 

     

    Jan, 0,5 mm copper rod scored with a sharp blade made the screw head.

     

    Sorry Grant, no way I can make working screws on this scale ;)

     

    So that said, the gudgeons are made, again from brass strip and bar silver soldered together and formed to follow the hull curvature. I'll probably use some castello shims to compensate for the missing hull planking. Some adjustments are still needed before I can bolt the gudgeons permanently to the hull. Somehow gudgeon #5 ended up under the transom planking :(

     

     

    post-20-0-49152400-1420039827_thumb.jpg

     

    post-20-0-57711700-1420039858_thumb.jpg

     

    Remco

  3. A long overdue update, be it small is more than one way :)

     

    The tiller hole was repositioned and the hoops were added

     

    The pintles are browned, bolted & screwed to the rudder, (okay I simulated the screws.....)

     

    post-20-0-61824900-1418676305_thumb.jpg

     

    post-20-0-78078600-1418676325_thumb.jpg

     

    Next up the Gudgeons, any ideas how long they need to be? TFFM only shows one, are #2 to #5 all the same length?

     

    Remco

  4. Thank you all for the kind words. For those interested in the soldering board, I purchased it here they also have the pins I use and some hold down clamps I didn't get but made them myself.

     

    Beware that the board quickly heats at the bottom so you should place extra heat protection underneath it (yes I found out the hard way and now I have a big burn mark on my bench  :angry: )

     

    Remco

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