Remcohe

A sharp tool is a necessity, not only for draught marks  

Remco

Thanks all.

Mark, for delicate enhancing of the joints I use a pencil, but to simulate tarring like the joints on  the rudder I use very thin paper (probably 0.1 mm thick). It comes in different colors but it's not water proof so I use the white one and tint it with a black Sharpy. All joints are lined on one side and after gluing the pieces together I used a plane to shape the rudder and trim the excess paper lining.

Meanwhile the metalwork on the rudder is continued, the pintles and spectacle plate are made from separate pieces silver soldered together. Piet, when all metal work is ready I will try to brown them (instead of blackening) 

Here they are temporary fitted

I noticed the hole for the tiller sits to close to the top of rudder, In need to make a little fix to lower it

I'm not sure how that happened......

Remco

That is one sweet prototype, can't wait to see how 2.0 will look like

Remco

Thanks.

I went to the hobby shop and got a better strip of brass that closer matches the size I need. Less material to remove, easier to work with. Two holes are smaller to receive a bolt the rest will get simulated screws.....

Remco

Looking really good Danny. Can you explain how you serve your lines, they look really good. Homemade device?

Remco

David B, I use a Veritas MKII honing guide and several (400, 1000, 3000 & 6000 grid) Japanese waterstones. It's a big investment but the results are great every time.

Meanwhile I'm struggling with the pintles, the brass bars I have are to thick and need to be thinned down a lot, it's not working this way. I need to visit the hobby store to get bars that better match the size of the pintle straps.

I not sure if I understand the TFFM correctly, are the straps let down into the keel? And is this over their full-length or partially?

Remco

Thanks all, good quality chisels and keeping then very very sharp helps a lot...

Robin I used the watering marking on my body plan to establish the position of the marks

Next up the rudder, my first attempt to cut 'simple'  tabs that go all the way from side to side failed. I had to much tear out from the mill, even with a backing piece of wood. So back to the chisels and I made the proper altering tabling.

Cut to size with the table saw and scroll saw, tarring simulated with thin black paper

Tapered with a big bench plane

The square hole  at the top tapers from fore to aft. Next up the pintles.

Remco

Ok, I added the marks on the sternpost by narrowing them down they fitted. I omitted one mark as the gudgeon will cover it.  I'm not happy with how they turned out compared to the stempost marks. It was hard to maneuver being right handed, the hull got in the way 

Making a new sternpost is out of the question I'm affright ,....

Remco

Thanks all.

Cog, I used a tripod and the timer to take that picture.

Dave, the carving was done with small chisels of different sizes.

Druxey, I was planning to tonight but ran into a problem. While marking their position I saw the stern post has the same with as the largest XIV and XIII marking. So adding them here will look odd. In the picture they are roughly penciled in but the final markings will take the full with of the stern post. I'd better leave them off

Remco

Thanks Joe, Vivian & Mark. Indeed I used the knurling attachment from Shereline, it gives a good grip and a adds a nice touch.

Port side treenailed

And draught marks added, they won't be painted red as they should as this might be to distracting. They are just 3 mm, 1/8" high

Remco

It will be BIG 

Remco

I like it

Maybe a little late with my advise, but at this scale you can heat bend small strips of boxwood into the shape of the frames. I used a plug and added the planks first and added the frames afterwards. Working with a plug gives a stable base to add those delicate parts on. Especially in the beginning there is not much structure to keep everything in place.

Remco

That is lovely

Remco

Alan, Cog, I turned the fittings on my lathe, added knurls to finish them off and soldered them to the bars.

Cabrapente, thats I nice little tool, I prefer to drill all holes manually as this gives far greater control and precision.

Remco

I hadn't realized the FM antenna would be so large...

Se sure looks great and ready to sail off

Remco

A long overdue update....... I was too busy making decals and flags

I planked the port side from the Sheer strake up, this is all the planking I will do on this side except some minor parts I need for the rigging. Next up tree nailing the lot.... 

Also made new brass knobs on the clamps, as it turned out the wooden ones didn't hold up after I reenforced the bars with nuts.

Remco

Kuddo's for Daniel! Now it's up to you Piet to make great Jol.

Remco

Congratulations Grant, she turned out beautifully. It was great fun to follow your build, thank you for taking the time to share it with us. 

Remco

Marcus, that are some interesting modifications.

"For modifications, i like this one, a simplified version  which appeared in NRG journal."

Can somebody elaborate on this mod?

Remco

Ok, we'll be visiting Piet next spring, I'll aks the Admiral's permission if we can hit Lumberton during our tour of the South.

Remco

Sweet looking ladder Piet! And good luck with the dingy

Remco

I might join next spring, but forgive me for not bringing my KF along. The cutter and longboat will fit in my luggage though

Remco

Bob,

For a long time I could not make a decent drawing of a person let alone make a sculpture of a face. Until I bought  copy of this book and my results improved dramatically after I understood the concept of proportions. I still have to make the step from polymer clay to actually caving in wood but that is just a matter of time.

Remco

I see they are really challenging shapes to make, but you make it look like a walk in the park

My hands are itching to continue with my masts......

Remco

Yes do keep boring us Piet

Popeye, I found a guy in North Dakota and he has an Alps printer and was willing to do a one of print job. It's a dye sublimation printer that has white ink, ideal to print decals with. 

Remco