Erik W

I should have everything finished in about a week or so.  I'll post a bunch of photos with the boat on the display stand when it's finished.
 
Erik

I should have everything finished in about a week or so.  I'll post a bunch of photos with the boat on the display stand when it's finished.
 
Erik

Fantastic job Erik.

Brilliant job! Can we have a pic with the brass nameplate? Your rigging is neat and tidy.

The rope is untreated.  I used Syren Ship Model Company's rope as is.  I used 50/50 diluted matt medium on the rope coils to get them to hold their shape, and also to secure my seizings and knots.
 
Erik

I finished the rigging and their associated rope coils.  I'm working on the grapnel now, then it's just a matter of adding the oars, windlass handles, and rudder.  I had a small brass plaque made at a local trophy/awards shop, so the final display base should look pretty sharp. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Erik

The rope is untreated.  I used Syren Ship Model Company's rope as is.  I used 50/50 diluted matt medium on the rope coils to get them to hold their shape, and also to secure my seizings and knots.
 
Erik

I finished the rigging and their associated rope coils.  I'm working on the grapnel now, then it's just a matter of adding the oars, windlass handles, and rudder.  I had a small brass plaque made at a local trophy/awards shop, so the final display base should look pretty sharp. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Erik

I finished the rigging and their associated rope coils.  I'm working on the grapnel now, then it's just a matter of adding the oars, windlass handles, and rudder.  I had a small brass plaque made at a local trophy/awards shop, so the final display base should look pretty sharp. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Erik

Looks great, what are you treating those lines with?   

Wow Eric. That looks really sharp. Can't wait to see it with the plaque.
 
Paul

I finished the rigging and their associated rope coils.  I'm working on the grapnel now, then it's just a matter of adding the oars, windlass handles, and rudder.  I had a small brass plaque made at a local trophy/awards shop, so the final display base should look pretty sharp. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Erik

I finished the rigging and their associated rope coils.  I'm working on the grapnel now, then it's just a matter of adding the oars, windlass handles, and rudder.  I had a small brass plaque made at a local trophy/awards shop, so the final display base should look pretty sharp. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Erik

I finished the rigging and their associated rope coils.  I'm working on the grapnel now, then it's just a matter of adding the oars, windlass handles, and rudder.  I had a small brass plaque made at a local trophy/awards shop, so the final display base should look pretty sharp. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Erik

I finished the rigging and their associated rope coils.  I'm working on the grapnel now, then it's just a matter of adding the oars, windlass handles, and rudder.  I had a small brass plaque made at a local trophy/awards shop, so the final display base should look pretty sharp. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Erik

I finished the rigging and their associated rope coils.  I'm working on the grapnel now, then it's just a matter of adding the oars, windlass handles, and rudder.  I had a small brass plaque made at a local trophy/awards shop, so the final display base should look pretty sharp. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Erik

I finished the rigging and their associated rope coils.  I'm working on the grapnel now, then it's just a matter of adding the oars, windlass handles, and rudder.  I had a small brass plaque made at a local trophy/awards shop, so the final display base should look pretty sharp. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Erik

I finished the rigging and their associated rope coils.  I'm working on the grapnel now, then it's just a matter of adding the oars, windlass handles, and rudder.  I had a small brass plaque made at a local trophy/awards shop, so the final display base should look pretty sharp. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Erik

Big step..stepped the bowsprit, no going back now.
 

 
A heads up about the splash guard.  The manual says that the laser cut pieces were suppose to be cut with the grain running top to bottom, which makes sense to make them easier to bend around the jig.  The pieces on my sheet, however, were cut with the grain running lengthwise or perpendicular to the way described in the manual.  With the grain running in that direction the pieces seemed too stiff to ‘dry’ bend around the jig without breaking so I soaked them in hot water for about an hour.  Not only did I soak them but I used a hand steamer to really soften them up.  I formed them around the jig provided, bending one piece at a time.  I let them dry overnight and then glued them together, clamping the pieces back onto the jig.
 


 
The gammoning for the bowsprit was next which was straight forward enough but awkward working in such a tight area.
 

 
First casualty while rigging, I knocked the dolphin striker off. This was probably a blessing in disguise because I hadn’t thought that it was very secure from the beginning.  This gave me the opportunity to add a pin to its back in order to secure it better to the bowsprit cap, hard to see the pin.
 

Before starting the bowsprit rigging and after studying the plans I came up with a procedure that, for me, seems to work.  I decided that in order to keep the lengths of the lanyards between the hearts consistent that I would tie those first.  To do this I made a little jig that would hold the hearts at a set distance apart so I could lash them together.  The jig is made of two smooth jawed alligator clips, soldered together with a piece of copper wire.
 

 
I don’t have pictures doing the bobstays because I was seeing if this method was going to work but I do have them doing the bowsprit shrouds.
 

 
Hearts held in position
 

 
Adding the lanyard.  I didn’t tie the lanyard in place I just glued the ends to the line adjacent to it.
 

 
The shroud was then looped around the heart, tightened and seized.  The hooked end of the shroud was already hooked to the hull.
 

 
Early Christmas present to myself, Dr. Slick 3 1/2" scissors.  works well.
 

Mike,
 
It really looks great!  I like how you've really gotten into the use of your airbrush on this build.  I know you weren't entirely happy with the brush painting of your longboat.  Seems like you've adapted to emphasize your strengths.  Your perfectionism and the high standards you set for yourself are really paying off.  Your build is incredibly clean and crisp.  Being relatively new to this like you are, you are definitively a role model for those of us just getting started.  While I'm at it, I've always admired your willingness (and this includes on your longboat) to pull things apart and start over when you're not satisfied.  Your results show your high standards. 
 
Erik

Mike,
 
If you're looking for high quality strong small diameter wire, I recommend Phosphor Bronze wire rather than brass wire.  It's as easy to form/bend as brass, but is more durable, so if inadvertently bumped, it'll still keep it's shape.  This is where I get my supply: https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop.aspx?SearchValue=wire
 
Erik

I agree with Toni... you are much too organized.  And also too neat.  There's no sawdust on that workbench... If my Admiral sees those pictures, I'm doomed.  Doomed I tell you.
 
Those are lovely and precise joints. 

More carving.  The decorative curl on the end of the planksheer rail was made several times...Dropped and lost one of them, the final one is OK.  While it seems so small while carving, it looks a bit large in place.  The volute has a simple gouge pattern.  I do not have the skills to carve the pattern as David laid out.  The pear was too soft to carve, so I went back to the Box wood and stained it.  Not an attempt to match the pear, just decorative.  I may thin it down (from the back).  It looks a bit heavy as is.  The upper bulwarks are just set in place.  More work there and then the Roughtree rail.
Maury

I thinned the volute from the back (used double-sided tape to hold the piece to the sander sled) to about half the thickness of the last picture. 
I also put some dark walnut stain to tone-down the color a bit.  Looks better.  I also thinned the fancy end of the plank-sheer molding and filed the drift end to match up better.
Maury

Not a lot of progress, still cutting the gunports. A lot of work, not enough time for modelling...

 
Added this monograph into the collection. Who knows, maybe that would be the next project in 5 years?

 
Santa read that build log and decided I really need some new toys!

 
Now I have 5 power tools hidden in the different parts of the modelling table, and still some room left. How do you guys manage to occupy the entire workshops?