Erik W

I'm back from my trip to Wales and England, and back working on the longboat.  I've added the curved piece attached to the cap rail at the bow, the front part of the locker at the stern, and the thwarts (not including the one the mast will go in).
 

 

 

 
Erik

I'm back from my trip to Wales and England, and back working on the longboat.  I've added the curved piece attached to the cap rail at the bow, the front part of the locker at the stern, and the thwarts (not including the one the mast will go in).
 

 

 

 
Erik

I'm back from my trip to Wales and England, and back working on the longboat.  I've added the curved piece attached to the cap rail at the bow, the front part of the locker at the stern, and the thwarts (not including the one the mast will go in).
 

 

 

 
Erik

I'm back from my trip to Wales and England, and back working on the longboat.  I've added the curved piece attached to the cap rail at the bow, the front part of the locker at the stern, and the thwarts (not including the one the mast will go in).
 

 

 

 
Erik

Paul,
 
It's good to see another longboat build!  The longboat is a fun kit, and it's perfect for developing the skills for larger, future projects.
 
Erik

Paul,
 
It's good to see another longboat build!  The longboat is a fun kit, and it's perfect for developing the skills for larger, future projects.
 
Erik

Paul,
 
It's good to see another longboat build!  The longboat is a fun kit, and it's perfect for developing the skills for larger, future projects.
 
Erik

Here are a few pics after fairing of the bulkheads, Any ideas, criticisms, things I may do better are gladly welcome.
 
Have a great day.
 
Paul
 
 

Chuck,
 
Just to clarify, were the curved deck planks shaped from wider wood strips, or were they edge bent? 
 
Erik

Most were just edge bent...the hooked scarfs were cut from wider stock than the 3/16" strips and then they were edge bent too!!!
 
Chuck

Chuck,
 
Just to clarify, were the curved deck planks shaped from wider wood strips, or were they edge bent? 
 
Erik

No not yet.  That is months away I am afraid.   I am using MinWax Wipe-On-Poly for the finish.  Nothing else.
 
Started on the timber heads today.  There are only six.  No shortcuts here.  Just grab a sharp blade and start shaping.   I know some folks use power tools for this but I prefer to go old-school.  I just go very very slow.  They are 3/32" thick.
 

 
Chuck

I created the rudder port by flipping the hull upside down.  I made a pilot hole and slowly opened it up and shaped it.  I made the rudder first which is shown below.  This was used to test the size and shape of teh port and when I was satisfied I touched up the red paint around it.
 

 
Then it was time to add the small top section of the rudder post.  I designed the model so it was simulated and put on in two pieces.  The laser cut longer piece is shown in the same photo below.  I left a longer tail so folks can sand it down to fit their models.  The deck level will probably vary model to model and this takes care of the issue.  Once filed down to fit, it was glued into position and painted. To pull off the illusion I used yellow glue which sets up slower.  By having the rudder made I was able to tape it in position so I could get the correct angle for this tiny piece.  This step was crucial.   It was tweaked while the rudder was taped on temporarily.
 
The yellow glue gave me a lot of time to move it around so it was positioned correctly and creates the illusion of a one piece stern post.  A little sanding on the outboard edge and some filler and it looked really good after painting.  I still havent decided if I will paint the inboard portion of the rudder head.  I probably will as is stands out too much left bright.
 

 

 
And finally....I made some time to paint the windlass.  I havent glued it into position yet but here are some overall detailed photos.
 

 

And finally....the deck is planked.  This is a big milestone for me because it is the last really big  messy job to be done.  The remainder of the project will be small fittings and less sanding.  There will be less dust and less paint touch up.
 
The planking was pretty straight forward after having lined off the deck.  I just following the plan I drew on the false deck.  Each plank was tapered to match.  The scarphed planks were handles much the same way the drop plank was on the outside of the hull.  If I thought it was needed, I made a card stock template.  The scarphed planks were cut from wider stock (7/32" or even 1/4" wide planks). 
 
Next I will create the rudder port because it will be the last time I can turn the hull upside down without too much trouble.  Once that is done I will return outboard and finish off all of the details.  The boom crutches, boarding ladders, scuppers and channels etc.
 

 

 

Hi Mike,
 
outstanding planking job! The transom looks terrific! Very accurate work.
 
Alex

Though I'm somewhat hesitant to re-do mistakes, your comments and all the likes are indeed encouraging. It's a big relief to be finally moving on to the next stage of the build. Thank you all!
 
druxey - Absolutely no regrets.
 
Mike

Mike,
 
That looks great!  I admire your desire for excellence in your builds.  Also, I like that, though a pain in the butt, you don't mind tearing out stuff you've already done, and starting over.  That's a good example for others who strive to kick it up a notch with their builds.
 
Erik

......
 
                        Rekon54

Mike,
 
That looks great!  I admire your desire for excellence in your builds.  Also, I like that, though a pain in the butt, you don't mind tearing out stuff you've already done, and starting over.  That's a good example for others who strive to kick it up a notch with their builds.
 
Erik

At the August SMSNJ meeting I had the opportunity to compare my Cheerful with Chuck's. It was obvious that I had made a few mistakes making it difficult to achieve the overall look at the stern that I was striving for. 
 
This is what the square tuck was going to look like if I continued on. There is only enough room for four 3/16" filler pieces when there should be room for five. This was caused by my over fairing the last two bulkheads by a considerable amount. The black lines indicate what the correct shape should have been as pointed out by Chuck.
 

 
I thought about leaving things the way they were and I might have, if it were not for the fact that the fashion pieces were misshapen as well. I made three attempts at these but never got the consistent width that I was hoping for. Bothered by all of this I decided to try and fix these mistakes if possible.
 
This photo shows most of the planks and the two fashion pieces removed. I could have left a few more planks in place but I wanted to correct for some gaps left during the first attempt.
 

 
1/16" shims were added to the last two bulkheads and faired.
 

 
The planking has been completed for the second time. After gluing and clamping, I used a flashlight shining from inside the hull in order to show the tiniest gap that might have existed between the planks.  Any gaps were corrected by tightening the clamps a bit more.
 

 
In order to get the proper shape for the fashion pieces, I had to cut back the upper half of the wales about a 1/16". This allowed the fashion pieces to rise up slightly thus giving more width to the middle section. The process was tedious as I didn't want to damage any of the surrounding planking.
 

 
After all the fixes were completed I was able to complete the square tuck. The five filler pieces are actually .196" wide instead of 3/16".
 

Thanks Toni.  I'm more likely to use PVA on the planking due to the slower set up time.  I am using CA to attach the bulkheads though.  I've got 12 of the 16 in without any problems.  I had seen in one of Chuck's posts that he said he planks with a delicate touch.  That stuck with me as far as the desirability of getting my planks formed accurately on the work bench, rather than needing to force them on the build itself.  I'm both looking forward to, and am terrified of the planking stage!
 
Erik

Hello Everyone,
 
After completing my long "to-do" list of chores on Friday, I finally managed to start on the 18th Century Longboat.
 
On Thursday night I popped all the frames and the false keel out of the surrounding materials and checked the alignment and fit of all the frames. I then proceeded to sand the laser burn marks from the inside faces of the frames.
 
I've managed to get all the frames straight and true and glued in place, and faired to accept the planking. Deviating from the plans to start off with when planking, I've started on the Garboard plank and the three planks above and worked my way up on the Starboard side. I decided to start here because I felt most comfortable doing this. Using the 1/32 x 1/8 planks makes it fairly straight forward with bending and shaping the planks, but I'm taking my time, measuring twice and cutting once.
 
I'll take some photo's tonight after getting the Port side planks on.
 
 
Cheers for now,
 
Jonny

The transom frames ready for the band saw. Using maple, they will be a little tough for the fairing process, but very strong. This appears to be a fun part....

 
And here's the result....

 
She's all faired and ready for planking....

 
I should add, what a pleasure it is to be, once again, working with a great set of plan sheets that can be trusted. A big relief from the SOS project where I have had to fight the plans every step of the way.

I've installed a working rudder.

Well I don't know but with the 50/50 varnish the seats turns out fair.