liteflight

Wire will make the strongest, especially if you use steel wire.  I’m not sure of the diameter of the stanchions and rails but at the scale I would guess they would be in the 1 to 1,5 mm region,
You could consider different materials like plastruct extruded sections ( ABS material ) which can be joined by solvent welding, but they might not be strong enough take even light handling.
Brass is easy to cut, solder and finish.
If you use steel wire - do not use the wire available in model shops, as this is Piano wire ( music wire to our US cousins) which is high-carbon, very hard and stiff and therefore quite difficult to cut to identical lengths, bend to repeatable curvatures, etc.  Engineers would say it is almost glass-hard.
Soft iron wire is probably too soft, but is easy to work, bend and solder*.  Samples are florists wire and some fence wire.  Bunnings do big hanks of garden wire - might be worth a look.
 
Piano wire can easily be tempered back to a useful hardness - same as your Uhfbert sword, but much faster ‘cos of its thinness.  Heat to dull red and allow to cool in air will produce very soft temper
 
*With the correct flux!
 
Sorry, I have rabbitted on too much.  
soldering easily learned - especially when shown the method.
Probably Pat’s resistance soldering setup is readily controllable and he might share his wisdom about it

4 secrets** of good soldering:
Cleanliness
Cleanliness
Right Flux
Cleanliness 
Enough Heat!
 
**. Like the Garden of Five Surprises

Amusing; close, but no cigar!
Named after lord Melbourne (?) Brit foreign Secretary, who took his title from the village of Melbourne in Derbyshire.  
Melbourne means the place of Melde
Melde is Chenopodium Album, commonly known in UK as  Fat Hen, and was cultivated in the Middle Ages as a vegetable and eaten a bit like spinach.  Note:  there are dozens of Melbournes in Britain, as the stuff grows everywhere
 
It could have been worse.  He might have taken the title of Lord Fat Hen!
 
sorry to have hijacked your thread, Steven.  I’ll climb back under my flat stone
andrew
 

Steven
 
If your travel plans included Melbourne* in  the foreseeable future, I have about a pint (imperial) of Matt Acrylic Medium, and you are welcome to a dollop ( as well as a box of box)

I believe that the pouring medium is relatively very runny, and so contains a lot of acrylic solvent.  The Matt medium is more pasty than liquid, and for the application of seams to sails would have to be diluted a bit ( acrylic thinners) or applied with a weeny roller
 
Fwiw, I use a satin acrylic varnish as an adhesive for tissue/cloth, etc, .  Most probably it comes as a matt version as well
 
* As far as I am aware the only State Capital named after a vegetable.  I exclude Brussels as that was t’other way about
 
andrew
Pumped from looping a Concord model today, indoors and by accident!

Amusing; close, but no cigar!
Named after lord Melbourne (?) Brit foreign Secretary, who took his title from the village of Melbourne in Derbyshire.  
Melbourne means the place of Melde
Melde is Chenopodium Album, commonly known in UK as  Fat Hen, and was cultivated in the Middle Ages as a vegetable and eaten a bit like spinach.  Note:  there are dozens of Melbournes in Britain, as the stuff grows everywhere
 
It could have been worse.  He might have taken the title of Lord Fat Hen!
 
sorry to have hijacked your thread, Steven.  I’ll climb back under my flat stone
andrew
 

Steven
 
If your travel plans included Melbourne* in  the foreseeable future, I have about a pint (imperial) of Matt Acrylic Medium, and you are welcome to a dollop ( as well as a box of box)

I believe that the pouring medium is relatively very runny, and so contains a lot of acrylic solvent.  The Matt medium is more pasty than liquid, and for the application of seams to sails would have to be diluted a bit ( acrylic thinners) or applied with a weeny roller
 
Fwiw, I use a satin acrylic varnish as an adhesive for tissue/cloth, etc, .  Most probably it comes as a matt version as well
 
* As far as I am aware the only State Capital named after a vegetable.  I exclude Brussels as that was t’other way about
 
andrew
Pumped from looping a Concord model today, indoors and by accident!

I'm a nice guy . . . 
 
Steven

Amusing; close, but no cigar!
Named after lord Melbourne (?) Brit foreign Secretary, who took his title from the village of Melbourne in Derbyshire.  
Melbourne means the place of Melde
Melde is Chenopodium Album, commonly known in UK as  Fat Hen, and was cultivated in the Middle Ages as a vegetable and eaten a bit like spinach.  Note:  there are dozens of Melbournes in Britain, as the stuff grows everywhere
 
It could have been worse.  He might have taken the title of Lord Fat Hen!
 
sorry to have hijacked your thread, Steven.  I’ll climb back under my flat stone
andrew
 

Steven
 
If your travel plans included Melbourne* in  the foreseeable future, I have about a pint (imperial) of Matt Acrylic Medium, and you are welcome to a dollop ( as well as a box of box)

I believe that the pouring medium is relatively very runny, and so contains a lot of acrylic solvent.  The Matt medium is more pasty than liquid, and for the application of seams to sails would have to be diluted a bit ( acrylic thinners) or applied with a weeny roller
 
Fwiw, I use a satin acrylic varnish as an adhesive for tissue/cloth, etc, .  Most probably it comes as a matt version as well
 
* As far as I am aware the only State Capital named after a vegetable.  I exclude Brussels as that was t’other way about
 
andrew
Pumped from looping a Concord model today, indoors and by accident!

Mmmmm.  Scrappee requires very light radio gear and servos and flies on a single lithium polymer battery ( 1S, or a nominal 3.7volts).  Your Heli gear may well be “standard” radio, where the servo plugs alone weigh more than a micro-servo ( about 1.5 gms)
Unless you are seeking the ultimate in lightness, the equipment does all plug together, and probably requires no soldering at all.
For anyone interested, all the equipment to fit out Scrappee is available on the Microaces website as well as the rest of their model range
 
I’m an indoor flyer, but have no relationship with Microaces, other than as a future customer ( I fancy their DH Dragon Rapide)
andrew

Mmmmm.  Scrappee requires very light radio gear and servos and flies on a single lithium polymer battery ( 1S, or a nominal 3.7volts).  Your Heli gear may well be “standard” radio, where the servo plugs alone weigh more than a micro-servo ( about 1.5 gms)
Unless you are seeking the ultimate in lightness, the equipment does all plug together, and probably requires no soldering at all.
For anyone interested, all the equipment to fit out Scrappee is available on the Microaces website as well as the rest of their model range
 
I’m an indoor flyer, but have no relationship with Microaces, other than as a future customer ( I fancy their DH Dragon Rapide)
andrew

Mmmmm.  Scrappee requires very light radio gear and servos and flies on a single lithium polymer battery ( 1S, or a nominal 3.7volts).  Your Heli gear may well be “standard” radio, where the servo plugs alone weigh more than a micro-servo ( about 1.5 gms)
Unless you are seeking the ultimate in lightness, the equipment does all plug together, and probably requires no soldering at all.
For anyone interested, all the equipment to fit out Scrappee is available on the Microaces website as well as the rest of their model range
 
I’m an indoor flyer, but have no relationship with Microaces, other than as a future customer ( I fancy their DH Dragon Rapide)
andrew

Mmmmm.  Scrappee requires very light radio gear and servos and flies on a single lithium polymer battery ( 1S, or a nominal 3.7volts).  Your Heli gear may well be “standard” radio, where the servo plugs alone weigh more than a micro-servo ( about 1.5 gms)
Unless you are seeking the ultimate in lightness, the equipment does all plug together, and probably requires no soldering at all.
For anyone interested, all the equipment to fit out Scrappee is available on the Microaces website as well as the rest of their model range
 
I’m an indoor flyer, but have no relationship with Microaces, other than as a future customer ( I fancy their DH Dragon Rapide)
andrew

Mmmmm.  Scrappee requires very light radio gear and servos and flies on a single lithium polymer battery ( 1S, or a nominal 3.7volts).  Your Heli gear may well be “standard” radio, where the servo plugs alone weigh more than a micro-servo ( about 1.5 gms)
Unless you are seeking the ultimate in lightness, the equipment does all plug together, and probably requires no soldering at all.
For anyone interested, all the equipment to fit out Scrappee is available on the Microaces website as well as the rest of their model range
 
I’m an indoor flyer, but have no relationship with Microaces, other than as a future customer ( I fancy their DH Dragon Rapide)
andrew

Steven
 
If your travel plans included Melbourne* in  the foreseeable future, I have about a pint (imperial) of Matt Acrylic Medium, and you are welcome to a dollop ( as well as a box of box)

I believe that the pouring medium is relatively very runny, and so contains a lot of acrylic solvent.  The Matt medium is more pasty than liquid, and for the application of seams to sails would have to be diluted a bit ( acrylic thinners) or applied with a weeny roller
 
Fwiw, I use a satin acrylic varnish as an adhesive for tissue/cloth, etc, .  Most probably it comes as a matt version as well
 
* As far as I am aware the only State Capital named after a vegetable.  I exclude Brussels as that was t’other way about
 
andrew
Pumped from looping a Concord model today, indoors and by accident!

Steven
 
If your travel plans included Melbourne* in  the foreseeable future, I have about a pint (imperial) of Matt Acrylic Medium, and you are welcome to a dollop ( as well as a box of box)

I believe that the pouring medium is relatively very runny, and so contains a lot of acrylic solvent.  The Matt medium is more pasty than liquid, and for the application of seams to sails would have to be diluted a bit ( acrylic thinners) or applied with a weeny roller
 
Fwiw, I use a satin acrylic varnish as an adhesive for tissue/cloth, etc, .  Most probably it comes as a matt version as well
 
* As far as I am aware the only State Capital named after a vegetable.  I exclude Brussels as that was t’other way about
 
andrew
Pumped from looping a Concord model today, indoors and by accident!

Steven
 
If your travel plans included Melbourne* in  the foreseeable future, I have about a pint (imperial) of Matt Acrylic Medium, and you are welcome to a dollop ( as well as a box of box)

I believe that the pouring medium is relatively very runny, and so contains a lot of acrylic solvent.  The Matt medium is more pasty than liquid, and for the application of seams to sails would have to be diluted a bit ( acrylic thinners) or applied with a weeny roller
 
Fwiw, I use a satin acrylic varnish as an adhesive for tissue/cloth, etc, .  Most probably it comes as a matt version as well
 
* As far as I am aware the only State Capital named after a vegetable.  I exclude Brussels as that was t’other way about
 
andrew
Pumped from looping a Concord model today, indoors and by accident!

In a Blinding Flash of the Obvious I have just realised the wakeboard is the modern embodiment of the green plastic foot-base on toy soldiers!
 Steven’s comment above triggered the BFO
 
The rudder/tiller combination is fully reversible - all wave forces, shocks and running into dead second-hand hippppopotomi will kick back into the tiller and the steersman’s ribs if the stance is correct.  Big regular forces (waves) could probably be resisted by a good lateral stance.
Additionally there would be frequent small shocks from the hydrodynamic forces and possibly these would make the steersman’s ribs painful, calloused or both
 
None of the above is unique to the trailing tiller system, it is just that ships of this era had, essentially, very short tillers (compare with the length of tiller of say a Naval Cutter or Brixham Trawler) which would make the steersman’s strength a necessity.
 
As a spokesman for the Department of Useless Information (DoUE) I can observe that the an old term for the Steersman was Gubernator ( Latin) from which we get the terms
Governor (US)
fly-ball governor ( engineering and frequently US)
“Guvv’nr/ Gov” ( London Cabbies)
 
Parthian thought:  you could carve yourself as photographed*, Steven, to make the model truly distinctive 
 
*with or without wakeboard
 
andrew

In a Blinding Flash of the Obvious I have just realised the wakeboard is the modern embodiment of the green plastic foot-base on toy soldiers!
 Steven’s comment above triggered the BFO
 
The rudder/tiller combination is fully reversible - all wave forces, shocks and running into dead second-hand hippppopotomi will kick back into the tiller and the steersman’s ribs if the stance is correct.  Big regular forces (waves) could probably be resisted by a good lateral stance.
Additionally there would be frequent small shocks from the hydrodynamic forces and possibly these would make the steersman’s ribs painful, calloused or both
 
None of the above is unique to the trailing tiller system, it is just that ships of this era had, essentially, very short tillers (compare with the length of tiller of say a Naval Cutter or Brixham Trawler) which would make the steersman’s strength a necessity.
 
As a spokesman for the Department of Useless Information (DoUE) I can observe that the an old term for the Steersman was Gubernator ( Latin) from which we get the terms
Governor (US)
fly-ball governor ( engineering and frequently US)
“Guvv’nr/ Gov” ( London Cabbies)
 
Parthian thought:  you could carve yourself as photographed*, Steven, to make the model truly distinctive 
 
*with or without wakeboard
 
andrew

Dear all
 
Hull is completed!
 
All gaps are filled and it is sanded to 400 grit. It is very smooth to touch! The next photos were taken with the Admiral's fancy iphone as my cheap one was not up to the task. I must admit the quality is phenomenal.







Inside is very rough but it will not be visible.

Now, I am not sure how to finish  the hull. I have decided I will not paint it.
Now, I though that Tung oil will make the filler invisible. It does but only viewing it from certain angles. From others, the filler stands out the same. I oiled a few strips of pear and beech and this is the colour they take. The pear will be much less blotchy.

I am really not sure what to do, leave the pear and beech light with the pink hue or darken them to this drastically different more wooden colour?
 
I think now I should put this project on hold and start planking the yawl. This is a project I am getting a bit apprehensive with, I think it will be very difficult to figure it out and very difficult to convince the beech to wrap around the hull. The frames also look too flimsy and too far apart for the task. 
The two hulls side by side. Note the bow of the yawl, how did the builders of old got the planks to take this turn?

Best wishes to all
Vaddoc

Hi, Eric and other shipbuilders
The ship has progressed quite a lot, but the build log not at all
My lovely Admiral, who bought me the ship as a Christmas present, died in my arms in November.
 
i have not felt able to post since then, indeed my brain has turned to mush.
 Recall has become elusive, concentration brief and typing has become difficult as I am dyslexic and rely on a photographic memory for the images of words.  
To me all words are images and I just type letters till it looks like the image.
 
Added to this is a huge workload of paperwork as Executor and the obvious loneliness without Bette
 
I WILL return to the blog and bring it up to date with the build.
just not now

Wire will make the strongest, especially if you use steel wire.  I’m not sure of the diameter of the stanchions and rails but at the scale I would guess they would be in the 1 to 1,5 mm region,
You could consider different materials like plastruct extruded sections ( ABS material ) which can be joined by solvent welding, but they might not be strong enough take even light handling.
Brass is easy to cut, solder and finish.
If you use steel wire - do not use the wire available in model shops, as this is Piano wire ( music wire to our US cousins) which is high-carbon, very hard and stiff and therefore quite difficult to cut to identical lengths, bend to repeatable curvatures, etc.  Engineers would say it is almost glass-hard.
Soft iron wire is probably too soft, but is easy to work, bend and solder*.  Samples are florists wire and some fence wire.  Bunnings do big hanks of garden wire - might be worth a look.
 
Piano wire can easily be tempered back to a useful hardness - same as your Uhfbert sword, but much faster ‘cos of its thinness.  Heat to dull red and allow to cool in air will produce very soft temper
 
*With the correct flux!
 
Sorry, I have rabbitted on too much.  
soldering easily learned - especially when shown the method.
Probably Pat’s resistance soldering setup is readily controllable and he might share his wisdom about it

4 secrets** of good soldering:
Cleanliness
Cleanliness
Right Flux
Cleanliness 
Enough Heat!
 
**. Like the Garden of Five Surprises

Wire will make the strongest, especially if you use steel wire.  I’m not sure of the diameter of the stanchions and rails but at the scale I would guess they would be in the 1 to 1,5 mm region,
You could consider different materials like plastruct extruded sections ( ABS material ) which can be joined by solvent welding, but they might not be strong enough take even light handling.
Brass is easy to cut, solder and finish.
If you use steel wire - do not use the wire available in model shops, as this is Piano wire ( music wire to our US cousins) which is high-carbon, very hard and stiff and therefore quite difficult to cut to identical lengths, bend to repeatable curvatures, etc.  Engineers would say it is almost glass-hard.
Soft iron wire is probably too soft, but is easy to work, bend and solder*.  Samples are florists wire and some fence wire.  Bunnings do big hanks of garden wire - might be worth a look.
 
Piano wire can easily be tempered back to a useful hardness - same as your Uhfbert sword, but much faster ‘cos of its thinness.  Heat to dull red and allow to cool in air will produce very soft temper
 
*With the correct flux!
 
Sorry, I have rabbitted on too much.  
soldering easily learned - especially when shown the method.
Probably Pat’s resistance soldering setup is readily controllable and he might share his wisdom about it

4 secrets** of good soldering:
Cleanliness
Cleanliness
Right Flux
Cleanliness 
Enough Heat!
 
**. Like the Garden of Five Surprises

Yes, but the staples then rust.  
Me, I use masking tape to hold the covering material to frames made of 1/4 square hard balsa ( 6 mm in newfangled money)
I have heard of people buying old pictures in Op Shops ( Charity Shops, Thrift Shops) and scrapping all but the frames.  If made in the last 30 years the frames themselves are probably Ramin
 
Thank you for the glimpse into carving real chaps from fruit-wood.  We can just hope that you find a source of boxwood.
 
I like the photos of You-as-steersman.  Good way to visualise the stance.
I do wonder how much the tillers would kick back in choppy weather and do the steersman’s ribs a power of no good.  He would also probably ( my speculation) need one foot thwartships to brace him against the kicking of the tiller
Were there two steersmen, one per rudder?  And how did they communicate and coordinate the steering?
Two independent quarter-rudders make it possible to get considerable braking by turning both inboard (or outboard, but that would require longer arms!)
 

Wire will make the strongest, especially if you use steel wire.  I’m not sure of the diameter of the stanchions and rails but at the scale I would guess they would be in the 1 to 1,5 mm region,
You could consider different materials like plastruct extruded sections ( ABS material ) which can be joined by solvent welding, but they might not be strong enough take even light handling.
Brass is easy to cut, solder and finish.
If you use steel wire - do not use the wire available in model shops, as this is Piano wire ( music wire to our US cousins) which is high-carbon, very hard and stiff and therefore quite difficult to cut to identical lengths, bend to repeatable curvatures, etc.  Engineers would say it is almost glass-hard.
Soft iron wire is probably too soft, but is easy to work, bend and solder*.  Samples are florists wire and some fence wire.  Bunnings do big hanks of garden wire - might be worth a look.
 
Piano wire can easily be tempered back to a useful hardness - same as your Uhfbert sword, but much faster ‘cos of its thinness.  Heat to dull red and allow to cool in air will produce very soft temper
 
*With the correct flux!
 
Sorry, I have rabbitted on too much.  
soldering easily learned - especially when shown the method.
Probably Pat’s resistance soldering setup is readily controllable and he might share his wisdom about it

4 secrets** of good soldering:
Cleanliness
Cleanliness
Right Flux
Cleanliness 
Enough Heat!
 
**. Like the Garden of Five Surprises

Wire will make the strongest, especially if you use steel wire.  I’m not sure of the diameter of the stanchions and rails but at the scale I would guess they would be in the 1 to 1,5 mm region,
You could consider different materials like plastruct extruded sections ( ABS material ) which can be joined by solvent welding, but they might not be strong enough take even light handling.
Brass is easy to cut, solder and finish.
If you use steel wire - do not use the wire available in model shops, as this is Piano wire ( music wire to our US cousins) which is high-carbon, very hard and stiff and therefore quite difficult to cut to identical lengths, bend to repeatable curvatures, etc.  Engineers would say it is almost glass-hard.
Soft iron wire is probably too soft, but is easy to work, bend and solder*.  Samples are florists wire and some fence wire.  Bunnings do big hanks of garden wire - might be worth a look.
 
Piano wire can easily be tempered back to a useful hardness - same as your Uhfbert sword, but much faster ‘cos of its thinness.  Heat to dull red and allow to cool in air will produce very soft temper
 
*With the correct flux!
 
Sorry, I have rabbitted on too much.  
soldering easily learned - especially when shown the method.
Probably Pat’s resistance soldering setup is readily controllable and he might share his wisdom about it

4 secrets** of good soldering:
Cleanliness
Cleanliness
Right Flux
Cleanliness 
Enough Heat!
 
**. Like the Garden of Five Surprises