PeteGee
-
Posts
9 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
PeteGee reacted to Danstream in Mayflower by Danstream - Artesania Latina - 1:64
Hi,
I glued a small wale (I do not know the term for it) on top of the upper edge of the planking that I recreated as shown in my post above:
Then, I went up with few strakes to form the bulwarks. I had to shape the planks quite precisely because I do not have any bulkhead extensions to support them.
I interposed pieces of tape between the planks for those parts that I will remove later. Inside, I prepared the capstan and glued additional strips along the borders of the deck.
Work proceeded very slowly, but I hope to speed it up during the festivity break.
Until next time,
Dan.
-
PeteGee reacted to Danstream in Mayflower by Danstream - Artesania Latina - 1:64
Hi all,
some updates on my build, still working on the unfinished hull. I planked the deck of the small bow platform:
On the stern, having added few strakes, I recreated the 'step' of the transom that now needs to be shaped round:
I am also trying to add tapered strakes to recover the shape of the upper edge that needs to curve upwards. The actual required curve was lost when I applied the planking:
I will need to add another tapered strake for obtaining a nice, smooth bending up of the upper edge that will guide the wale to be glued before starting the second planking.
On the main deck, I added the gratings with their framing. The grating provided with the kit, in my opinion, had too large holes for this scale, hence I outsourced the gratings from Kolderstok with much smaller holes. After assembling and sanding them, I sprayed them with a light coat of Tamiya XF-59 (desert yellow). I have plenty of these Tamiya paints because of my activity with aircraft kits.
Finally, this is how I have arranged the first planking on the transom 'step'.
Still plenty of work to do to finish the hull.
Thanks for dropping by and best regards,
Dan.
-
.thumb.jpeg.fc5d633a7b34428fcf19419a73d56d55.jpeg)
PeteGee got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Dummy's Guide to Rigging
One of the best reference books I have come across is Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor by Darcy Lever. It is very complete...it is somewhat like the old Bluejackets Manual for new sailor in the US. Lever starts with the ropes, then the knots, then on to rigging and the like. If you stick with it long enough and build a ship big enough, you will even be able to learn how to sail your ship to the US. : - )
Seriously, it is very good and there is a very good dictionary of nautical terms at the very end. I recommend that you stay on board and continue building by going slowly, checking out every little piece of the puzzle (or model) as you go. As mentioned above, this is the place to be for encouragement and assistance. We were all where you are at one point or another.
PeteGee
-
PeteGee got a reaction from Fright in Unanswered Constitution Question
I don't know if you have an answer for this yet, but the way I tied the gun port doors was to use a very small drill bit to carefully drill the hole in the door. If you are careful, there will be no burring or breakage. Then, to get the thread through the tiny opening, I use a needle threader that I bought from JoAnne Fabric (or Hobby Lobby). These small threaders also come with some sewing kits. Once the gun port doors are firmly glued in place (with CA), you can thread the small diameter line through the hole. Drill the hole before gluing the doors in place. BTW—the needle threader is a very good tool for use in other areas where line needs to be drawn through small openings.
Best of luck with your build.
PeeGee
-
PeteGee got a reaction from mtaylor in Determining thread size by model scale
I am working on "Old Ironsides" after having been away from the hobby for almost thirty years. I love the rigging of it, which is where I am right now. Although this model looks a bit like she is coming back in for repairs after a battle : - ) I wanted to do more accurate line usage than large, medium, and small. I eventually ended up at the Syren website where they have a printout available with the sizes of the rigging lines they sell. When you print this out, you will have a picture of nine different rope sizes the you can use to measure what you already have and look at the various sizes to judge for yourself (visually) what you think will work for the function you want to rig. They don't include literal black thread, which is smaller than the .20mm that is their bottom size. I hope this can help a little bit. This is a great hobby...extremely rewarding at every step of the way.
PeteGee
-
PeteGee got a reaction from Canute in Determining thread size by model scale
I am working on "Old Ironsides" after having been away from the hobby for almost thirty years. I love the rigging of it, which is where I am right now. Although this model looks a bit like she is coming back in for repairs after a battle : - ) I wanted to do more accurate line usage than large, medium, and small. I eventually ended up at the Syren website where they have a printout available with the sizes of the rigging lines they sell. When you print this out, you will have a picture of nine different rope sizes the you can use to measure what you already have and look at the various sizes to judge for yourself (visually) what you think will work for the function you want to rig. They don't include literal black thread, which is smaller than the .20mm that is their bottom size. I hope this can help a little bit. This is a great hobby...extremely rewarding at every step of the way.
PeteGee
-
PeteGee reacted to JerseyCity Frankie in What is this Called?
The two ends are cow hitched. Its possible to laboriously reeve the line all the way through the entire tackle, but in this case all they did was take the hooks off, cow hitch, then put the hooks back on. But let me share my opinion about using photos of museum ships as reference: Little kids love to play with the rigging on museum ships and if allowed to would cast off every coil and tangle all the lines. So museum ships do things like the technique shown in the photo to keep the lines secured. This is NOT how an actual carronade would be found rigged on a working ship. Also that whit line hanging down is poorly coiled, a real sailor would never allow the coil to touch the deck.
-
PeteGee reacted to lambsbk in USS Constitution by lambsbk – Revell – 1/96 - PLASTIC – With Fiber Optics
Thanks Joel - a breast hook.
Learning the nomenclature is, I believe, a life long process and I still have a long way to go.
-
PeteGee reacted to lambsbk in USS Constitution by lambsbk – Revell – 1/96 - PLASTIC – With Fiber Optics
I ran into a little bit of trouble on the beam plan. The Revell foredeck did not place the mast in the same position as the deck beams I was planning. So I scanned the underside of the deck and superimposed the plan onto it. I then lined up the mast partners. I think this will work. I now have a pattern to make the beams and may even be able to do it off ship (i.e. no holes in the bulwark as previously planned) and can glue the beam structure to the lip on the Revell model. This plus stanchions should secure the structure to hold the rest of the build and rigging in place.
-
PeteGee reacted to lambsbk in USS Constitution by lambsbk – Revell – 1/96 - PLASTIC – With Fiber Optics
It has taken me a while to come up with a plan for the foredeck. I decided to follow the beam plan from the 1920's refit because it gave the most detail. The breast knees, carling, and mast partners should be straight forward. I still have some questions about the hanging knees and the dagger knees and will probably have to make them as I go so they fit structurally into the Revell kit. I will be making a mold for the beams to give the 1/8" square plastic the proper deck camber and will try to 'bake' the mold at 204 degrees to impart the shape. The gun lids will have to be re-rigged. I really don't like the current config anyway. I will also try to give the cross-cut middle deck planking a 'cut wood' look where they are exposed by this revision.
The clear plexiglas probably won't work but the beams and carling may be all that is needed to support the deck furniture once the structure is secured to stanchions on the gun deck.
-
PeteGee reacted to EJ_L in Dummy's Guide to Rigging
PeteGee, I have actually used my Bluejackets Manual when I first started building ships. I also have pulled out my old Boy Scouts Handbook to remind myself how to tie a few knots. It is interesting to see what books that were not meant for model ship building can contain useful and relevant information.
-
PeteGee got a reaction from mtaylor in Dummy's Guide to Rigging
One of the best reference books I have come across is Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor by Darcy Lever. It is very complete...it is somewhat like the old Bluejackets Manual for new sailor in the US. Lever starts with the ropes, then the knots, then on to rigging and the like. If you stick with it long enough and build a ship big enough, you will even be able to learn how to sail your ship to the US. : - )
Seriously, it is very good and there is a very good dictionary of nautical terms at the very end. I recommend that you stay on board and continue building by going slowly, checking out every little piece of the puzzle (or model) as you go. As mentioned above, this is the place to be for encouragement and assistance. We were all where you are at one point or another.
PeteGee
-
PeteGee got a reaction from JRB9019 in Dummy's Guide to Rigging
One of the best reference books I have come across is Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor by Darcy Lever. It is very complete...it is somewhat like the old Bluejackets Manual for new sailor in the US. Lever starts with the ropes, then the knots, then on to rigging and the like. If you stick with it long enough and build a ship big enough, you will even be able to learn how to sail your ship to the US. : - )
Seriously, it is very good and there is a very good dictionary of nautical terms at the very end. I recommend that you stay on board and continue building by going slowly, checking out every little piece of the puzzle (or model) as you go. As mentioned above, this is the place to be for encouragement and assistance. We were all where you are at one point or another.
PeteGee
-
PeteGee got a reaction from Ray1981 in Dummy's Guide to Rigging
One of the best reference books I have come across is Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor by Darcy Lever. It is very complete...it is somewhat like the old Bluejackets Manual for new sailor in the US. Lever starts with the ropes, then the knots, then on to rigging and the like. If you stick with it long enough and build a ship big enough, you will even be able to learn how to sail your ship to the US. : - )
Seriously, it is very good and there is a very good dictionary of nautical terms at the very end. I recommend that you stay on board and continue building by going slowly, checking out every little piece of the puzzle (or model) as you go. As mentioned above, this is the place to be for encouragement and assistance. We were all where you are at one point or another.
PeteGee
-
PeteGee got a reaction from markjay in Dummy's Guide to Rigging
One of the best reference books I have come across is Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor by Darcy Lever. It is very complete...it is somewhat like the old Bluejackets Manual for new sailor in the US. Lever starts with the ropes, then the knots, then on to rigging and the like. If you stick with it long enough and build a ship big enough, you will even be able to learn how to sail your ship to the US. : - )
Seriously, it is very good and there is a very good dictionary of nautical terms at the very end. I recommend that you stay on board and continue building by going slowly, checking out every little piece of the puzzle (or model) as you go. As mentioned above, this is the place to be for encouragement and assistance. We were all where you are at one point or another.
PeteGee
-
PeteGee got a reaction from dgbot in Constitution by Geoff Matson - Model Shipways 2040 - 1/76 scale
Geoff,
Thanks for your great work! I have just caught up with your log, and having just started a 'Connie' of my own this past summer, I am really going "back to school" after about 35 years totally away from modeling. Thanks for being a great instructor. Mine is a 1/96 Revell kit so the scale of everything is a bit different from yours, but the lessons are the same: "Measure twice, cut once." Even though it is plastic, the same principle applies.
Thanks again.
Pete
-
PeteGee reacted to Crowler in USS Constitution by Force9 - Revell - PLASTIC - Revisiting the classic 1/96 kit
Evan
I am new to tall ship building, have done a lot of WWII models, tanks and planes but, I have always loved the Sailing War Ships 1700 and 1800 hundreds.
I started following your build about 16 months or so ago, reason is, I have found your build to be one of the best in detail and history to go along with it, which I love! This is my 3rd attempt at the Revell 1/96 scale model, believe it or not, made one big mistake on the last one and the first one looked like I used 50 pounds of glue. So, this is my (Hopefully) last attempt at this model so I can actually display the model with your build ideas because of the accuracy, with a few of my own little ideas. By the way, Force9 will be getting the credit!
Very excited for your future posts and thank for going through the work, because I know it's a lot of work to post a build!
Steve
-
PeteGee got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Constitution by Geoff Matson - Model Shipways 2040 - 1/76 scale
Geoff,
Thanks for your great work! I have just caught up with your log, and having just started a 'Connie' of my own this past summer, I am really going "back to school" after about 35 years totally away from modeling. Thanks for being a great instructor. Mine is a 1/96 Revell kit so the scale of everything is a bit different from yours, but the lessons are the same: "Measure twice, cut once." Even though it is plastic, the same principle applies.
Thanks again.
Pete
-
PeteGee reacted to Burroak in Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum
JS I'm truly amazed with your ship. You started out as a first time wood ship builder and have advanced into a seasoned Shipwright. Well done.
Greg
-
PeteGee got a reaction from GLakie in Constitution by Geoff Matson - Model Shipways 2040 - 1/76 scale
Geoff,
Thanks for your great work! I have just caught up with your log, and having just started a 'Connie' of my own this past summer, I am really going "back to school" after about 35 years totally away from modeling. Thanks for being a great instructor. Mine is a 1/96 Revell kit so the scale of everything is a bit different from yours, but the lessons are the same: "Measure twice, cut once." Even though it is plastic, the same principle applies.
Thanks again.
Pete
-
PeteGee got a reaction from Canute in Unanswered Constitution Question
The continuing 'saga' of my "Connie" build...Why is it that the lessons you need to learn are discovered only after one is 3/2 through the challenge : - ) I am starting to develop the channels and deadeyes at this point, and my question (of many later on) is: When cementing the channels and irons to the hull, does one use little bits of CA or is TenXr7 better.? Secondly: I have not noticed on any o the build logs I've seen where extra support has been done for the channels themselves. Has anyone done this? Any suggestions? i do need to say that the build log references I been studying are marvelous. Great work, guys and thanks for sharing.
Pete
-
PeteGee got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Unanswered Constitution Question
I don't know if you have an answer for this yet, but the way I tied the gun port doors was to use a very small drill bit to carefully drill the hole in the door. If you are careful, there will be no burring or breakage. Then, to get the thread through the tiny opening, I use a needle threader that I bought from JoAnne Fabric (or Hobby Lobby). These small threaders also come with some sewing kits. Once the gun port doors are firmly glued in place (with CA), you can thread the small diameter line through the hole. Drill the hole before gluing the doors in place. BTW—the needle threader is a very good tool for use in other areas where line needs to be drawn through small openings.
Best of luck with your build.
PeeGee
-
PeteGee reacted to SgtSki in MI in USS Constitution by SgtSki in MI - Revell - 1:96 - PLASTIC
28 February 2015: I finished the gun stripe and the copper plating. Next comes the main deck bulwarks (green) and the gun deck bulwarks (white). As soon as I get a magnifying lamp I'll do the trim. For the decks I'll do wooden deck tan over flat black, the lightly sand until the black grain shows through. I know that there's a laser cut wooden main deck available, but I can't justify dropping $100 on it while the kit only cost me $60!
-
PeteGee reacted to RRLittle in English Merchantman Mayflower 1620 by RRLittle - FINISHED - Life-Like - Plastic - 1:250
Final bit of work on the 4th November; hit the model with Dullcote and stepped the bowsprit. Also corrected the trim damage on the transom. Since the gammoning is really non-functioning, it had to be shaped and then fit into place. Mast color for this project is good old Testor's Flat Brown. There was a little bit of green ink bleed on the upper works, not far from where the shrouds should run, but still going to touch this up, probably by cutting tiny yellow triangles instead of painting (my hands are simply not that steady anymore).
-
PeteGee reacted to ScottRC in USS Constitution by Overworked724 - Revell - 1/196 - PLASTIC - abandoned
Hello Patrick,
Welcome to the wonderful art of model ship building. You are starting with a great kit to get the "feel" of how a sailing ship would go together. I have built this particular model a few times and also used artistic license by painting it blue once, so don't worry about being accurate with colors, the point is to have fun and enjoy what you are accomplishing.
I see your kit has the plastic ratlines. Please consider looking into rigging these yourself. Many of us here can talk you through it. The reason I say this is that these smaller Revell plastic kits, well, the masts like to flex and bend and trying to keep those plastic ratline assemblies from popping off as you rig is a big pain. Also, like on a full sized ship, rigging the shrouds and ratlines gives those plastic masts a lot more support, so when doing the standing, and later, the running rigging become much easier because the masts are not flexing all over the place. Overall, everything will look more to scale and you will be pleased with the results.
For the deck, maybe give it a wash of black acrylic, then wipe the acrylic off while its still wet, this will stand out the deck seams, then give the deck a wash of light gray to tone and blend the wood brown, tan, and black.
So keep up the good work and we will be here help you out if you need anything.
Scott
Our Emblem ®
