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Everything posted by CDW
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Found and ordered some nice aftermarket AA guns for the Akitsushima which should be here Friday. There's a lot to do before then and wanted to get the base colors laid down before adding all the small sub assemblies then some mild weathering. I think I'll end up doing a waterscape mount for the ship seeing as how it's a waterline kit.
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This is a waterline kit, as most are in 1:700 scale, so I have no lower hull to add to it. Once you move into 1:350 scale and higher you get full hulls in almost every model ship kit.
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Mike If you visit the site,, be sure to write Alan through the contact tab and let him know what you are looking for. He is in the process of updating his site and does not have all his inventory listed.
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When building 1:700 scale model ships, unless you're building a Flyhawk model, it's likely you will want to upgrade the weapons and accessories from the stock kit pieces which are often soft on detail. One of the best weapons and accessory details you can buy are from the Fine Molds Nano Dread series. Unfortunately, these are not easy to find and can be on the costly side, however the detail is excellent. I wanted to recommend a particular dealer in North America called Models-4-Less. Excellent prices, fast and friendly service, great inventory. I must admit, I did clean him out on a number of the Fine Molds IJN weapons sets in 1:700 but he has a broad inventory of kits and accessories. The owner's name is Alan, and his web address is: http://models-4-less.com/index.php Give them a try and tell them I sent you.
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In the old days, I diluted oils with terpenoid and used them as a wash, but you don't want to do that on a wood deck. The wood deck will soak up that thinner and make a mess. Use very small amounts on your brush straight from the tube and stroke the brush on a clean paper towel to remove the bulk of the paint, like you would if you were dry brushing, before using it on the desired surface (deck).
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Everything looks great Alan. Did not realize those parts trees would stack like that. Good find! Be real careful weathering that deck. It will soak up paint like a sponge and go in places you did not intend. Have you tried using very light applications of artist oils, the tube type paint? Like you said, experiment on scrap before doing the real thing.
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If I decide to do it (and that's a big if), it will be a long term project worked in between other smaller projects. Don't think I will have the patience to stay on it full time. Particularly when it gets down to all the small details involved.
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I feel for 'ya. Dropped a PE doorway today and it simply vanished as well. As small as these parts are, it's probably right in front of our eyes and we just are not focusing on the correct spot to see it. When I don't need it, that's when I find it sometimes after I already made a part to take it's place.
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Working the bridge On another note, I ordered and received the digital copy of the 1:144 Akitsushima plans to consider a future scratch build. Took to PDF file on a thumb drive to my local Staples office supply store who plotted out the 2 page plans on their 36" printer/plotter. They came out beautiful, very crisp detail and well done by Black Dragon. The finished ship model in 1:144 scale will be approximately 36" in length. In the meantime, I ordered the 1:144 scale Arii H8K2 seaplane from Japan. At least that part would not require a scratch build.
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Beautiful model OC. Great to see your build log of it. Looking forward to future installments!
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After you told me about Flyhawk producing the 1:72 armor, I ordered the Panzer II, the Konigstiger, and a French Streetscape. They were delivered this week. They are superb!
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I remembered a while back building a black shadow box for taking photos. Popped the funnel in there to see if it helped the focus. Wow, what a difference that shadow box makes! Everything marked in black on the superstructure gets removed for photo etch replacement.
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The auto focus on these cameras seem to operate with a mind of their own. Seems in this instance, it insisted on focusing on the print on the bottle cap rather than the part I wanted it to capture. I don't how to manually focus on a particular object or if that's possible.
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Totally agree on the masts. Best I have ever seen in plastic, but so are a lot of other Flyhawk plastic parts. They have set a new standard in 1:700 scale for all the other companies out there. Some of the new Pit-Road and Very Fire offerings are good too, but not quite as fine as Flyhawk.
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Thanks for the kind words Alan. I agree on the benefits of Gator's Grip. It's not perfect for every photo etch gluing situation, but it certainly comes in handy where you need extra time to situate the small pieces. If I tried doing those same pieces with CA, would have a big mess, but I have seen others do it without a lot of adverse issues.
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Hi Alan I just now found your build log for the Penelope and have spent some time looking through the photos of your work. Looks super! Looking forward to following along as I also have this model in the stash of to-do's.
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Having a hard time getting my phone camera to focus in on the macro level needed to capture the details being added to this tiny part.
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The funnel on a model of this size in this scale would be a plain blob of plastic without the photo etch enhancement. In reality, I had to cut away and sand smooth some molded on details before applying the photo etch, but it would have looked "blah" without the photo etch. Gator's Grip acrylic glue was used here in this instance. I brushed it on the funnel then slid each photo etch piece in place while the glue helped steady it in the correct position while I got the multiple pieces lined up and spaced the way i wanted them. It would be much more difficult to do using CA glue in my opinion. The acrylic glue gives that extra working time to sort things out.
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Fine Molds are producing a lot of beautiful 1:700 scale injection molded weapons and accessories sets nowadays better than resin, but man, they are so darned expensive for the small amount of contents in each box. Excellent products but everything I see is in Japan, overpriced, and a high cost for shipping. Would like to see Flyhawk produce some more WW2 IJN subjects. You get a lot for the money with their products. My Scharnhorst kit comes with quite a few extra accessories and weapons, more than required to finish the kit. I need to find out if I can buy case lots of Fine Molds products for a good discount.
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