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CDW

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Everything posted by CDW

  1. While it’s not finished, I am tired of working on this piece for now and am taking some photos for the record.
  2. That resin looks so much like water, it's as if you could literally jump inside. Beautiful work, Alan.
  3. Was able to get several hours of work in on the Hood but still didn’t finish the bridge. A couple of the quad .5 inch guns mounted on top.
  4. Engine builders did a lot of mixing and matching with other small block cranks/rods with the 400 block to come up with different configurations of bore/stroke/cubic inches and drastically changed the way the engines performed. One of those combinations used a 327 crankshaft and I forget which rods, but it ended up 383 cubic inches, and had a big bore with a shorter stroke giving it higher top end RPM's. It was a drag racer favorite as I recall.
  5. In between the 283 and 350 small blocks came the 327 small block. My big brother bought a brand new short block 327 crate engine from the Chevrolet dealer the first year they came out, 1963 I think. He ran a set of fuelie heads which were the "thing" back then because of the size of the intake valves and porting. He dropped that engine into his '55 Chevy and it was a real runner. Last small block variations were the 307 and 400 cubic inch. The 400's were my favorite small block Chevy to street rod because the high torque made it so much fun from stoplight to stoplight.
  6. Wow, that is so nice. Love that particular plane and you did a wonderful job on it all the way around. A very under modeled aircraft, the Soviet fighters and bombers.
  7. No resin, everything is plastic, machined brass, photo etch brass, or stainless steel photo etch.
  8. Now that’s a great idea! Thanks for sharing it with me as I will put it to use.
  9. I found it! After recharging my flashlight battery over night, I looked again this morning and found it. Hoorah! laying next to a small pin, you can appreciate how small this is, about half the diameter of the pin.
  10. The 4 inch secondary guns. The oddball on the far right is the casualty of a lost gun barrel, hence was forced to use the stock kit ones where I drilled out the barrel ends to make them somewhat more presentable. Who knows, maybe I’ll get lucky and find the missing barrel later. Next up are more superstructure assemblies.
  11. It's surprising how much filament the plane takes. In addition, it must be a heat/UV resistant type, non standard. Because RC aircraft are flown outdoors, the filament must be UV resistant whereas standard filament is not. Heat from sunlight will cause the filament to get soft and sag, distorting the model. I still have some spools of it packed away but I cannot recall the name of the type I used. My worst nightmare was when the filament somehow got hung up in the spool near the very end of a long print. It was something like a 30 hours long print. When that happens, it ruins the entire part and the whole print must be redone. All that work goes down the drain. Vought F4U Corsair – 3DLabPrint
  12. Your parts are coming out nice. With some adjustments in your software parameters, you can probably get a smoother finish that will not require any sanding. While it's been too long ago to remember exactly the adjustments made, by altering the speed of print, temperature, and maybe a couple of other parameters, I learned to get a very smooth finish several years ago. If I started again, would have to relearn everything. 🙂
  13. Where are you buying your filament? Here in my hometown of Tampa, there is a 3D product warehouse where filament, resin, 3D printers, and all sorts of related supplies and equipment are sold. They also offer 3D printing services. I saw one room set up with a large number of 3D printers all doing their thing. Just for the heck of it, I may check to see what they would charge to print my Corsair. Probably its not cheap.
  14. Decided to take on the smallest, most fiddly guns first, the quad .5 inch guns and the PomPom guns. Another test of patience.
  15. Great project Yves! My best wishes for your success. A few years ago, I got into the printing of a six foot wingspan F4U Corsair R/C model aircraft kit that I purchased to plans/code for online. After about 25% through completion, I learned that the software I was using needed to be upgraded as the airframe shapes were so complex, my software could not handle it. At that point I became distracted and boxed everything away, never got back around to finishing the project. Amazing technology and lots to learn. It's a steep learning curve really IMHO. Notice with my project, the entire inner airframe is printed inside the outer skin.
  16. Got a collection of fragile bits going on here. Lots of mini-kits required to build the HMS Hood.
  17. The finished main mast. Will need to take care not to damage mast before final assembly of kit, very fragile.
  18. Nice! Hard to believe how realistic the 3D printed chain looks. Technology is something we could not have even dreamed of 10 or 20 years ago.
  19. I started this IJN Mikasa several years ago and never finished it. Need to get back on it to call it done.
  20. During the course of completing my model, a very small part was lost while I was spraying paint with my airbrush. Today while working on my HMS Hood model, I looked down on my workbench , lo and behold there was my lost part. Never thought that would ever be found.
  21. When I first thought about doing a card model, someone suggested Rocket Glue to me and I bought some. Unfortunately it's just sat on my shelf as I never started a card model. Have you tried that brand? This I found to be an excellent glue for clear canopies when I was building and flying RC models. Does not fog and dries clear. Super strong bond, but I have never tried it on paper. It's water based, and I do believe it should work with paper. I have never tried this particular dealer, I just came across it in a random internet search. It's on the shelf at my local hobby shop. ZAP Formula 560 Canopy Glue – Strictly R/C Hobbies (strictlyrchobbies.com)
  22. Your diorama is coming along beautifully Alan. I had missed your post that showed the acrylic case you built. Very nice indeed. Does TAP plastics also sell the little corner clamps? I'll have to search them out as I need a source for clear acrylic. Thanks for sharing that.
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