CDW

I love the pair of Porsche’s, Gary. Fabulous finish on both.

57 minutes ago, Egilman said:

A lot of the mid 70's GM products were brushed or polished sheet aluminum alloys.... Sometimes they shined like chrome off the assembly line, but they didn't stay that way for long....

True. Bare Metal Foil sells a polished aluminum foil, too.

1 hour ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Looks fantastic Craig!  

 

Did you foil the bumpers and wheels, or did you paint them?  I'm sorta at a standstill on a car build because I was thinking of foiling one set of parts because it would be easier than painting, but then didn't want the chrome to look different from other places that were chromed.  So, I've always wondered what people that foiled certain chrome parts did with other chrome parts.

The bumpers and wheels are kit supplied chrome parts. I cannot imagine foil being a practical matter for either of those parts. 
I can tell you, high level competition judges will not deduct points for a mix of foil and kit chrome parts. They look close enough to the same to 99% of observers. The only way I can think of to have everything match would be to mask and paint all of it. I have worked most of my life with old cars and I can tell you for certain that body trim and chromed bumpers (and wheels) do not look the same held side by side. Much of the trim pieces were stainless steel not chrome.

It's real close to finish now. Maybe today or Saturday the finishing pieces will be added then the Riviera can be called complete.

6 hours ago, Canute said:

I'll have to remember that tip, too. 👍

Those wipers are light years beyond the kit blobs. Very nice.

4 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Sweet work on the foiling!!  Amazing job!  

Thanks guys!

1 hour ago, gsdpic said:

Nice work on the chrome foil.  Do you just depend on the adhesive on the foil or do you do something more to ensure it stays where you put it?

Only the adhesive on the foil. It’s not easy to move at all. I suppose too much handling along the edges could cause it to lift but if it’s burnished down well, that chance is minimized as well.

2 hours ago, yvesvidal said:

Fantastic work on the Chrome, Craig.

 

Yves

Thanks Yves

All the chrome foil work is done...finally. Will move to wrap this little project up over the next few days.

1 minute ago, king derelict said:

Thanks Craig

Blackening the tip of the scalpel blade is a good idea. I must remember that.

Alan

It's particularly useful when you are trying to do careful trimming of a silver object. A silver blade against a silver object is very hard to see. Simply blacken the blade tip with a sharpie marker and you'll see the blade 100% better. Works like magic.

2 hours ago, king derelict said:

Lovely work with the metal foil. That looks very difficult to get a neat finish 

alan

It's really not all that difficult if the right tools are used and you take your time doing it. A new, sharp #11 surgical scalpel is a must, along with some quality, pointed cotton swabs (Tamiya variety). I blacken the tip of my scalpel blade so I can clearly see it as it's carefully and lightly drawn against the edge of the chrome trim. It's certainly not one of my favorite parts of car modeling but nothing else takes its place.

Took a few minutes this morning assembling and soldering together the photo etch windshield wipers from Aber. Earlier in the build, I cut off the molded on, horrible looking wipers that were part of the car body. These aftermarket units should give a more realistic appearance once they are painted and installed on the model.

7 hours ago, Egilman said:

 

 

For me, it Black Sabbath, Paranoid or Pink Floyd, The Wall...

 

Right now RFM is the go to for armor models....

In the summer of 1970, I went with my dad to Florence, SC. There was a dental clinic there that pulled all your teeth and made you a set of false teeth all in the same day. I figured dad would need me to drive home after that trauma. While waiting for him to get finished up in the clinic, I walked through downtown Florence and saw a record shop. It was there I bought the first cut Black Sabbath and Credence Clearwater Revival albums. Turned out my dad was such a tough old bird, he drove the whole way back to our home in Florida after going through all that torture the whole day. He never once complained and wouldn't accept any help with the driving. But let me tell you, when he heard me playing those albums after we got home, he came unglued...told me to TURN THAT CRAP OFF! Lol...It must have been a shock for him to hear something like War Pig.

I needed a hard edge around the wheel opening to help me guide my blade as I cut the bare metal foil. For this I used a 1mm strip of masking tape around the wheel opening, then laid my bare metal foil against the tape before following the outline of the tape to cut the foil. 

There's the rocker panel chrome on the passenger side of the body, three wheel opening trims, and last, the chrome strip down the center of the hood to complete the chrome trim pieces.

6 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

This  is  looking a  stunner   Craig   -  I can see  all the  work  you  are putting into  it.

 

OC.

Thanks OC

36 minutes ago, yvesvidal said:

That is looking sharp, but what a pain it must be to place these strips around the openings.

 

Yves

It’s very tedious. Certainly not a favorite thing to do. If the body molding is sharp, it’s a lot easier. Soft molding can be a nightmare. The areas I have the most concern about are surrounding the wheel openings. I have a plan of attack but it’s one I’ve never tried before now. We’ll have to wait to see how well it works.

The bare metal foil treatment on the driver's side windows will be repeated on the other three window frames, the trim areas surrounding the wheels, one strip down the center of the hood, and the rocker panels.

Some of the final steps to completion will be the application of bare metal foil for all the chrome trim on the body. A lot of dry fitting is needed before the foil work as the body to frame will need to be cemented into place. 

Looks great Kevin! Intimidating with all those parts. Tons of detail painting too.

29 minutes ago, yvesvidal said:

What a beauty !!!

There are a couple of classic muscle car dealerships in Tennessee I’ve been watching. They have some very nice cars come through there for sale, at prices more reasonable than I suspected they would be. I would much rather have one of those rather than a new Kia or something like that.

Interior dry-fit

A 1:1 1966 Buick Riviera in red.

The photo etch flex fan kit from Detail Master adds a greater level of realism.

Now that I've thought about it for a bit, I think I shall continue as it is and simultaneously look for a replacement hood. I can paint up the replacement when/if I find one. 

On 1/23/2024 at 1:43 PM, king derelict said:

The base is 24 x 26 inches and 16 inches high 

It looks so much larger than the actual dimensions.

Earlier in this thread, I mentioned the hood is slightly warped and does not cleanly match/lay down in the closed position. Now that I've laid down the color coats, I've realized another issue I did not notice before now. On close inspection in preparation for clear coats, on top of the hood appears ghosting of the structural reinforcement on the inside of the hood. It's difficult to pick up the detail in a photograph, but it can be clearly seen with the naked eye. In order to fix this, I need to strip all the paint off the hood and do some body work to hide the ghosting. Since the hood is slightly warped, I'm inclined to seek out another, replacement hood. Either way I go, it's going to delay my progress, but it seems to me I would be better off with a replacement (if I can find one). Either way, it will cause a delay.