CDW

The small photo etch sheet I've been waiting for arrived today. Will be back on this project this week.

A cold snap can through today. I had to wear socks. Rode around looking for Bella Regazzas. 😀

5 minutes ago, yvesvidal said:

I remember seeing quite a few of these Ferrari, when I was leaving on the French Riviera. The most interesting was to cross the border and go to the "wealthy" towns right behind the border. There, you could see all the rich Italian kids parading in their Ferrari's and hooting all the Bella Ragazzas in the streets.

 

One may wonder why the people were so affluent in these border towns: Simply because what they were selling was tax free and not taxed at 33% like most so called luxury products, on the French side. The greediness of the French government, made the fortune of these Italian folks.

 

Yves

Did you ever hoot at the Bella Regazzas, Yves? I sure did when I was young. Never owned a Ferrari, though. Had to find other ways to gain their interest.

For the yellow, I used Tamiya pure yellow lacquer. The paint will have plenty of time to cure while all the other model details are built and painted.

Those look very convincing with oils. I need practice with oils. I have the materials but need to start applying them to learn the ins and outs. Any tips starting out?

I wet sanded the old primer to smooth it all out, then applied a second levelling primer coat. Will give this time to dry and wet sand again before applying the Ferrari yellow. Want the color to thoroughly cure out before applying decals and clear lacquer.

I ordered a photo etch fan tonight. Since I'm waiting on PE scripts to arrive, might as well tackle the better-looking fan while I'm at it.

After reshaping the pulleys, painting the brackets and mounting the pump and alternator, I cut 1mm strips of masking tape to serve as the belts.

For little to no cost, the painted belts are much more convincing that the plastic blobs that previously simulated the belts. And better yet, the pump and alternator are not hanging out there in mid air, with no support attachments.

It would look much better if I replaced the fan with a photo etched one. I'll search my spares as I think I may have one somewhere.

Looking at the photos of the Riviera engine bay I posted reminded me of one more thing I can do now while waiting for my photo etch; building and adding mounting brackets for the power steering pump and alternator.

I'll start with the power steering pump bracket, where styrene strip stock was used to fashion a mounting bracket that supports the pump. Because of the pump position relative to the engine block, I needed to add offsets to the engine block to correctly position the bracket.

With the PS pump bracket done, moved on to the alternator bracket.

With both brackets built and cemented in place, it's time now to cut away those out-of-scale, gnarly looking belts and replace them with something that is a better scale representation. In later steps, will round and smooth out the pulleys then add some scratch-made belts. In the meantime, will give the brackets some time to dry before painting them and installing the pump, alternator and pulleys.

Alex Kustov is the Mac Daddy when it comes to Ferrari scale models. His website has been a go-to resource any time I'm building a Ferrari model. He's been around a very long time now.

www.italianhorses.net

29 minutes ago, Canute said:

I'm in. Is there any aftermarket for a kit this old?

Probably so but have not looked. It’s detailed enough straight from the box so it doesn’t need much.

I have some generic Ferrari photo etch scripts and badges I’ll use.

Acquired as a "rescue kit" in a trade with a fellow modeler over 30 years ago is this 1:24 scale Fujimi Enthusiast Series Ferrari 288 GTO Yellow. When acquired, the car body had a horrendous black primer paint job that needed stripping. After stripping, I applied a white primer and after that, put everything back inside the box where it has resided ever since, never seeing the light of day until now. The kit is of late 1980's vintage and was cutting edge 'plasticology' back then. The level of detail and molding of it still holds its own, even today. The Fujimi Enthusiast series of kits are among my all-time favorite car model kits. With all that said, I hope to bring this old kit back to life with a decent finish and level of detail. it should make a nice shelf model and will add to the Ferrari stable.

I'm going to do a short pause on completing this kit while I wait for photo etch "Buick" and "Riviera GS" scripts to arrive. The set from Model Car Garage should arrive in a week or so.

Meanwhile, I'm still contemplating the body/interior colors I may use, but initially decided on red body, black interior, following factory stock color combinations. I'm undecided on whether to do a white vinyl top. 

Got to admit, that black body finish speaks to me as well. The black body with black vinyl looks Boss!

Various internet photos of the 1966 Riviera engine compartment give clues on what needs to be done to fashion mounting brackets for the kit alternator and power steering pump.

Mr. Color has a dark blue that may be a close match.

Firestone Deluxe Champion 7.75x15 | eBay

Period correct, Firestone Deluxe Champion white wall tires. These are the nicest set of stock tires I've ever seen from AMT, included with the kit. The sidewall and tread details are immaculate.

The reason I asked about it, when I bought a huge set of carbon fiber decals for my 1:12 Tamiya Enzo Ferrari, Scale Motorsport insisted that only Decal Magic solution (their own product) be used on the decals. As the set was so expensive, decided not to take a chance and bought their recommended decal solvent for the set.

An extra light panel line wash of black does a lot to bring out hidden details.

Very nice models in this small scale.

7 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Nice job Craig!  Another beauty!

 

Can I ask what you did for the chrome?  Did you use foil?  Molotow?  Whatever you did looks great!  I'm in the middle of a few car builds and stuck on what to do for the chrome.  I painted some parts using Vallejo Metal, but was thinking about foiling other parts.  Just not sure that the chrome would look the same across different sources.

Thanks, Mike.

All the chrome on this model was straight from the box. I used a chrome ink marker only on the 3 small door locks, front and rear doors.

You might want to try AK Super Chrome. It's a little pricey but gives a good result. Other options are Alclad and Mr. Color Super Chrome Silver 2, SM206. If you go the Mr. Color route, you use a gloss black base then a highly reduced mixture of 7 parts reducer to 1 part paint. Apply in VERY light, low pressure airbrush spray over the gloss primer. If the paint is flooded on, it will not have that chrome mirror finish. The Ak Super Chrome is much more forgiving through an airbrush. Doesn't require reducer or a special base color. It likes to be flooded on and gives the best finish when it goes on wet. Too light a coat/s and it will not shine properly. As I understand it, it's actually a type of ink, not paint. It's reported that it can be brushed on, but I haven't tried it so cannot verify that. Another option that modelers say works very well is Green Stuff World airbrush chrome acrylic paint, or Green Stuff World brush-on chrome paint. You'll maybe need to order those products from Spain as I haven't found a USA vendor. 

If you're just doing small bits of molded on chrome trim, I would tend to use a Molotow or similar chrome pen.

The basic kit engine, all painted out in basic factory colors. Next, will detail it out a bit. As is true with most model kit engines in this scale, no provisions are made for power steering pump or alternator brackets, so will need to scratch build those details in later steps.

This was the last year Buick produced the nailhead V-8 engine, this one being a 425 cubic inch displacement, high performance version known as the 465 Wildcat, the 465 making reference to the 465 foot pounds of torque the engine produced. It was guaranteed to smoke the tires and jump from stop light to stop light with vigor. Fuel economy literally sucked the high-octane gas right out of your gas tank at an appalling average rate of 10 miles per gallon. Those dual 4 barrel carburetors made for a thirsty engine. 

Rob

Did Studio 27 recommend a specific decal solvent solution for their decals?

10 hours ago, Egilman said:

They produced some righteous engines back in the day....

 

For example take the 427 out of the 4k lbs sedan, put it in a 2200 lb roadster.... Wait, a guy named Shelby did exactly that didn't he....

 

When Buick came out with the 455, it was a first...first thin wall engine block technology. A major leap forward as it lowered the weight of the engine to around 200 pounds lighter than the Chevy 454, and only 25 pounds more than the small block Chevy 350 engine! Gobs of torque, over 500 ft pounds and over 400 horsepower straight from the showroom floor. As an old street rod enthusiast, you just can't beat torque for a fun, stop light to stop in a light street rod. The 455 had an almost perfect combination of bore to stroke and being so light, The stock cylinder heads were awesome, too. Its demise was the Fed's requirement for low octane fuel, the engine didn't stay in production very long. I bought a complete engine from a junk yard and stuffed it in my 1969 Chevelle. It was an easy fit as the block was no larger than the Chevy 396 which Chevelle ran in the SS models. 

1966 was the last year of the Buick "nail head" big block engines. This one was a 425 cubic inch, the largest displacement nail head. The Wildcat 465 engine option was known as such for the 465 ft. pounds of torque it produced, equipped with a set of dual 4-barrel carburetors.