Jump to content

CDW

NRG Member
  • Posts

    7,719
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by CDW

  1. Yes, the alignment did need a little tweak. I think I got it about as close as it's going to get. I keep looking and thinking about about the assembly and painting of the interior, the fender wells, and body of the car. This one is going to be a little tricky. The interior door panels are molded as one piece along with the side windows in clear plastic. I'm going to need to get the whole interior assembled and painted before I paint the body, and I will need to have the fenders and fender wells assembled with the body. Part of the rear fender wells are attached to the interior parts. I'll figure it out, just need to take my time and not rush through it.
  2. After assembling the chassis, engine, and radiator, everything got a coat of semi gloss primer before any color coats go on. The assembly was a little fiddly, but it looks authentic to me when it's all said and done.
  3. I'm going to slap the 1st guy who tries to look inside the window to see it right on his noggin'. 😄
  4. You know the term, "tip of the iceberg"? That's what you're seeing of my model stash. I will whittle it down eventually but will never build all of these.
  5. Please don't follow my example, Papa. I am a bad influence in the excess stash department.
  6. I have plenty of entertainment subject material
  7. Thanks OC. Got caught up on other matters, all is well. One of the things I did was to pull everything out of my hobby room then cleaned it all spic and span, repainted the walls, hung everything back on the walls, put in new work tables and a display cabinet before moving everything (almost) I had cleared out and put it back in the room. Taking advantage of a store closing sale at a major department store, bought the big work tables and display cabinet at an extremely favorable price. Just the way I like it.
  8. After taking off the entire summer from model building, decided to kick off with a build of the 1:24 Heller Delahaye 135. Don't know anything about the 1:1 car, but like the body styling, looking quite 1930's in appearance. Long hood and a sharp coupe top. My copy was damaged in transit long ago with a crack on the top. I patched up the crack using a piece of sheet styrene plastic on the inside and some putty, sanding on the outside. Will build the various sub components then paint them all before final assembly. It's interesting the various shades of blue colored plastic Heller uses in the manufacture of this kit.
  9. Wow Mike! Your planes turned out spectacular. Great job on those. The real professional model builders carefully cut the excess clear carrier film along the color separation of the decal before placing it in water. They do this with a straight edge and a new scalpel blade, only cutting lightly, just enough to separate the clear film from the colored. It's painstaking and tedious, but it gives the best results without any silvering. In addition, the pros don't use a clear coat under the decal either. They just rub the area where the decal is to be placed to polish it a little before applying the decal.
  10. Beautiful work. I love your Bentley. What a classic! The chrome/aluminum plating on the model is exceptionally nice.
  11. My old house I grew up in (in Tampa, Florida) had a large cellar/basement with dirt floors. It was filled with wine racks, but don't recall any wine being stored in the racks. We also had a huge attic in that old two story house where my big brother had his Lionel train layout.
  12. The hull looks very spiffy Mike. Sharp!
  13. Hobby Wing makes great ESC's. Good choice! Your work is fast and high quality, looking so nice.
  14. Sounds like you and I attended the same institution, the school of hard knocks. Shaping up nicely, Mike.
  15. We all have a long way to go, Mike. The journey is the fun of it. 🙂 You are doing just great!
  16. So, did you spray the clear coat with an airbrush? It looks to me the orange peel is in the clear coat, yes? Anyway, spraying with an airbrush can get the same orange peel issues if too far away from the target. Depending on whether you are using a single or double action airbrush, you may or may not have control of the flow. But too far away can cause issues, as well as too lose, just like a spray can.
  17. It's been quite a while since I last checked in, but wanted to say your models are coming along just beautifully, Mike. You are really getting the hang of this quickly! These will add a lot of color and flash to your model collection.
  18. 99% of your paint finish looks great, Nick. Generally speaking, orange peel happens when paint dries too quickly on the painted surface, not allowing it to level itself. Most often, this is caused by spraying with the can too far from the surface being painted. This can be a delicate balance as spray cans do not offer user control of the air pressure or paint volume. All you can really do is adjust your distance of the spray can in relation to the item being painted/sprayed. if it's too close, you will get runs in the paint. Too far away, orange peel. Practice, practice, practice. 🙂
  19. These car bodies are natural plastic, no paint. Just buffed, polished, and waxed. But in a way you are right. Sometimes the plastic just is not suitable because of inherent flaws. Other times it is fine, depending on the particular model.
  20. Mine was a '64 Triumph TR4A. A lot of fun to drive.
  21. The answer is/was very simple: great looking styling, at an affordable price. Being someone who actually owned a European sports car back then, I can tell you that owing one was a royal pain in the a** when it came to maintenance and acquiring spare parts. None of this was an issue for Mustang, Camaro, and Firebird owners.
  22. If you read through the Wikipedia article, it says the Germans had plans to extend the gun's range to 100 km with a barrel extension. 😲
×
×
  • Create New...