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CDW
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Phantom Henry J Gasser by jct - FINISHED - 1/24 scale - PLASTIC
CDW replied to jct's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
The boardwalk was awesome. -
Thanks again for the kind words, Denis. The truss rigging takes some fiddling to do, but it's worth it in the end.
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Thanks for the kind words, Richmond.
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What about this one, Jan?
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I agree with you on loading that torpedo in rough seas. But I was hoping you will do the diorama underwater with the periscopes and snorkel up. Mine is going to be in rough seas. 😎
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I am seriously considering this as my next project. Except I want to do an ocean scene/diorama and this will be my first foray into 'open water modeling'. I've watched plenty of videos on it, so maybe it's time to take that plunge. The Revell kit seems pretty good. At 1:144 scale, it's not too big (like the 1:72 model), but big enough to see some detail. I've got the Griffon Models update set for it: It has quite a few photo etch sheets and a nice aluminum torpedo for a reloading scene at sea as per the box top.
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Thanks OC. I'm ready to move on to something else.
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Some rigging, a few more decals, and this one is done. Will probably enter this model in the box stock category as nothing can be added except decals and this is completely stock from the box (with the exception of aftermarket swastika).
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Some big "fish". Compare these to the effective range of the Japanese long lance torpedo, 22,000 meters and a maximum range of over 40,000 meters.
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Never tried it, so can't say for sure. With Christmas lights, the color of the glass seems to work just fine, so don't have reason to think it would be any different.
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Despite the ancient tooling, you are turning this into a very nice model, Denis. I commend you for the effort. I am wondering about the history of this model. Did it start out as MPC, or was it AMT. or something else before this issue? Seems I remember it maybe being an Entex kit at one time way back, but I could be wrong.
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In this particular kit, the only thing provided is the 'white circle' where the swastika goes down on the painted red band. Normally, they provide nothing to replace the swastika. Some companies who sell their products in Germany have gotten around the law by providing decal pieces that when placed in the proper orientation will represent a swastika but on their own are just odd shapes. Revell Germany won't even do that.
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Very clever how you found an unintended use for that tool. Indeed, that blade is very sharp. And it comes with extra blades inside the handle.
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Interesting. So, are you just slipping the spar into the curved underside of the blade then letting the tool carve the spar as you draw it across the spar? I have one of those tools but never considered using it for anything but plastic scribing.
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If it wasn't for the fact this canopy was multi piece, I would have checked the fit to fuselage much sooner. Being this late in the building process made it more of a pain in the rear.
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Don't keep us in suspenders...what is this spar shaping tool you've got? Inquiring minds want to know. 🙂 I could use a tool for spar shaping.
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These are more specifically suited for plastic. I use coarser grades of the "manicure" variety for my wooden models. Flory designs his products for use around plastic models, but there may be other uses I have not discovered.
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So here is what I did to make a quick repair of that nasty little gap at the front of the windscreen. I used Vallejo plastic putty to fill the gap. It's an acrylic resin binder with finely ground marble powder. This is the type of putty/repair this particular product is best suited to handle. Fill in the gap Use a paint brush wetted with water to smooth out the putty. When the putty dries, give it a brushed on coat of Mr Surfacer. I used 500 grade in this instance. After the Mr Surfacer dries, give it another brushed on coat of your surface color and bamm!...it's done.
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A year ago, I bought a set of the sanding and polishing sticks from Flory Models in England. There are polishing sticks in that set that will buff out clear plastic beautifully. The come in various grades of coarseness, all the way down to the actual polishing grade. If you can see your way clear to acquire a set of them, they are well worth the money.
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It's one of those things that most guys our age can relate to...if I lost my magnifier, much of my small scale modeling would be over until I replaced them.
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great article
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