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Everything posted by CDW
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Is this the tank you bought? https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Military_Vehicles/MGK0000TS36/product.php?gclid=Cj0KCQiAp7DiBRDdARIsABIMfoB7vm7stbu5-KYLSnMHVYcEA3ujAVlu95A4DZokwNpjVVismjWQwVEaAihxEALw_wcB
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Indeed, it looks amazing! Very well done Seymore. It's going to be fun watching your next build, whatever it is.
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Another memory... It was 1975, the Gator Nationals. Kris Karamesines (The Golden Greek) campaigned a AA Fuel Dragster that was painted in a beautiful black finish and all the parts were typically chromed or polished aluminum were gold plated. The rail got out of sorts from the start and he lost control of the car rolling over several times and parts/pieces flying everywhere. While most of the fans were concerned about Karamesines' well being, he jumped out of the wreckage and ran all over the track picking up gold plated pieces. It was pretty hilarious (and sad at the same time), and he was obviously worried about fans picking up gold plated souvenirs before he could collect them. Probably some fans did pick up gold plated souvenirs.
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One other tip about photo etch. If you use CA, and the excess glue becomes smeared on the surrounding plastic or on top of your photo etch, use a Q Tip dampened with CA debonder to remove the excess. Only use enough debonder on the Q Tip to dampen, not saturate it. Too much obviously may cause your part to become unfastened.
- 106 replies
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- trumpeter
- john brown
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With a siphon feed airbrush, an often overlooked source of flow blockage comes when the tiny vent hole on top of the jar lid is blocked, but my first guess would be your percentage of reducer : paint is too low. In that case, the siphon is not capable of pulling the mixture through the feeder tube. I have never used Life Color paints so I don't know the viscosity you're starting with. Sometimes, even a 50 : 50 mix of paint to reducer is too low and you may have to simply increase the percentage amount of reducer until it will flow through. I am using the same bottle of Gator's Grip glue for almost three years now. Since it's water based, you'll need to keep it at/near room temperature. Over time it will thicken, just add distilled water to reduce it to the viscosity you want.
- 106 replies
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- trumpeter
- john brown
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Jack I'm late for your build thread, but enjoyed browsing through your progress. Love the subject model, so much solid history behind the Liberty Ships. Regarding your photo etch doors...I recommend trying/using acrylic glue rather than CA. 1. It allows all the time you need to adjust the position of the photo etch part and will provide a superior bond (IMHO) for flat items like doors to plastic. 2. It dries totally clear and will not mar the finish of your plastic or photo etch. 3. It's water soluble so clean up of excess glue is a breeze just using a water dampened q-tip. 4. Because it's water soluble, it's easy to remove a part if you make a mistake...even if it's dry. Gator's Grip acrylic glue works a charm for photo etch. A small bottle of it lasts a very long time, years even. Regarding your air brush issues...is yours a siphon feed or gravity feed air brush?
- 106 replies
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- trumpeter
- john brown
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Thanks Richmond. I used Mr Color Metal Aluminum on the engine cylinders and crank case, with Vallejo black ink for a wash to bring out the cooling fin details. Tamiya gloss black on the intake manifold and rocker covers. I used Mr. Color Metal Iron to dry brush the black manifold and rocker covers. For most of this model (maybe all?), I will be using Mr Color Acrysion, Mr Color Metal, Tamiya paints and some Vallejo washes. Will use Pledge Floor Care as a generic acrylic gloss clear coat where necessary before washes.
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That's great that Testors is making an affordable airbrush most anyone can acquire. Things like this help grow the hobby as similar items that higher priced can discourage people from even giving the hobby a try. I remember well when airbrushes seemed out of reach for me from a financial standpoint. I admired them and those that used them, but just couldn't afford and/or justify the expense to acquire one. Painted everything with a brush and rattle cans for a long time.
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While Zoukei-Mura is the sole provider of this and other photo etch update sets for this model, the sets are actually produced by Eduard. As far as I can determine, there is no logical reason why Eduard chooses to use stainless steel vs: brass on their photo etch sets. I am not a fan of stainless steel photo etch for the most part, and not a fan of Eduard for that matter. The sets are way over priced for what you get as are Eduard products in general. And yes, a 90 degree bend in stainless steel is very likely to result in breakage.
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It's one of the better builds of the old Revell Constitution I have ever seen. Looks positively excellent. The addition of the various detail sets paid off in spades.
- 209 replies
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- constitution
- revell
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Most of your old Revell kits came with movable parts...doors, hoods, trunks, steering. Getting the parts to work without breaking them was always the trick. Opening doors often had huge gaps around the doors that looked horrible. About the most foolproof working part/s were the metal axles that came with AMT kits. Plastic axles never lasted very long once you rolled them.
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