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CDW
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Everything posted by CDW
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Thank you Richmond. I appreciate that. Getting ever so close to the overall painting stage now. Need to add the vertical stabilizers, the canards, flaps and ailerons, first before beginning the paint work. The panels you see removed over the engine and gun bays will stay removed for display purposes. I hope to get paint on the model over the coming weekend but that may be too ambitious. Will just have to wait and see how it goes. This "upload failed" fiasco continues. Some of my pictures uploaded, some did not. Apparently I'm not the only one having this problem but it may be regional to some extent.
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Beautiful model. Just think, when your great grandfather built that model, the ship had only been gone 40 years or less. Almost contemporary for his time. $86,000 dollars was a fortune to have earned on the first voyage as stated by placard. Amazing history in several ways. As for a box, I would consider building myself a wooden frame, perhaps from 1" x 2" or similar, then covering the frame with 3/8" or 1/4" plywood. Cardboard is too flimsy if you plan to store it that way for a long while. Just my opinion of course.
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Excellent choice of decals/scheme. I like the graphics on that car.
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You did an amazing job with the kit stock wiring and plumbing. That stuff is a real challenge. Everything coming along so nice.
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With Pontos detail sets, the dry transfers are the waterline marks. Not sure about Mark 1, but I would guess they are like Pontos in that regard.
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Over time, I have built many, many, model aircraft. This one is a totally different animal. To be honest, it would take a 2nd build to really feel I had done my best with it because it's too difficult to see what's ahead as you build the 1st one. There are lots of things I would do different in a 2nd attempt.
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It took today's allotment of time to paint and fit the exhaust collectors to the engine panels, then fit the engine panels and rear engine cowling to the fuselage. Getting all this to fit is tricky to say the least. To a moderator (if one is reads this)....in the past few days, I am having lots of issues trying to upload photos to MSW threads. Keep getting a "upload failed" 200 error message. Is this a problem on my side or is it a server side issue? Never had it happen before now.
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Oh yeah, heat, sunlight, and humidity are major killers of decals. A couple of little tricks... 1. you can tape a "yellowed" decal sheet to your window for the day and the natural light will bleach it back to clear. 2. Future floor polish (now known as Pledge brand) airbrushed to cover an old decal sheet and allowed to dry will cure micro cracking. After the Future has been applied, you will of course need to cut each and every decal out with a pair of scissors.
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All the skins are fitting together nicely now (keeping my fingers crossed. This session's mock up has the engine test fitted into it's place.
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Beautiful gold finish on those parts...I really like it. Did you use their base black as a primer before applying the gold finish?
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I have some funny car decals you can have, but they are not specifically for a Ford Mustang funny car. I have an 8 1/2" x 11" sheet of white decal paper you can have as well if you would rather do your own. Just find the color images you want in the scale you want, save them to a flash drive, then take the decal paper with flash drive to Kinkos or Office Depot and they can laser copy them for you on your decal paper. The only thing you need to do yourself is give them a clear coat after they are printed and before you put them in water. I have done this many times with my ink jet printer.
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I have a 1:4 scale Stampe SV-4 in my stash, an RC flying model. Beautiful airplane and very aerobatic.
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I just bought a set of those paints a couple of weeks ago, but have not tried them yet. They have been received with good reviews.
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Certain panels left off may have something to do with it. If you look at the picture at the top of the Zoukei Mura webpage found in the following link, you can see the same gap in the part as I encountered it. They just left their's as-is and to be totally honest, it doesn't look too bad like that once the whole model is painted, detailed, and finished. But the gap is obvious. http://www.zoukeimura.co.jp/en/products/sws01_shinden_cl.html
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I'm pluggin' away on this thing, little by little. There are so many fuselage and wing skin panels that go on this model and each one has to be test fitted and sometimes filed/sanded a bit for them to fit properly. It's a shame because much of the difficulty comes when the internal structures get covered up by the skins. The fit is so tight and fiddly. No fear, it's getting there.
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Thanks OC. Can't rush these things or it will be worse rather than better.
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I believe this little issue is just about resolved now. With the strip stock added and a little shaping/sanding, there is a much better fit between the upper and lower gun cowling.
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Do either of you remember this old custom rod? When it came out, they sold for $2 if I remember correctly. Later on, they boxed this and the Tognotti T together as a 2-in-1 kit. At one time, I had numerous copies of this kit in my stash, but when they started going for over $100 each in the Ebay glory days, I sold off all but this one copy. Sometimes I regret selling off some of those old kits like this one, but I did get very tidy sums for them.
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It reminds me of the old Renwal kits that had all the detail inside but the outer panels never fit. But that was long ago and not quite as unforgivable as today where there are so many more tools for the designer in the way of 3D CAD. Yes, that bulkhead was obviously what I first suspected as the problem, but if it were shortened/reshaped, the panels behind it would not fit. As it is, the panels aft of the pieces seen in the pictures fit just fine. Like a good carpenter, I am measuring multiple times and taking a cautious approach to what I cut.
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These photos give a better idea of the gap I'm trying to fix. I glued on some .030" x .060" styrene strip stock, and once it's thoroughly dry, will shape it down to fit as close as possible to hide that ugly gap. Will have to re establish some rivet/fastener detail that will need to be replaced after it's all done.
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Thanks for the comments and likes, guys.
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I don't know yet about the engine cover fit, but in one build review I read, the author only found the fit of the forward gun cover to be a major issue. It is my intention to cut/remove certain panels to allow some of the internal detail to be seen. Most of it gets completely covered up unless the builder desires to customize/make some provision to allow it to be seen. There were only two prototypes of this airplane that were actually built before the war ended. Photos of maintenance panels removed are hard (maybe impossible?) to come by. Of the two prototypes, neither had guns installed, so this part of the kit is speculative and perhaps based upon design drawings.
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After the basic airframe, attention gets focused on the fuselage skins. Unfortunately, I quickly began to realize there were fit problems. At first, I wondered if it was something I had done or failed to do in earlier stages of construction, but couldn't find anything. Then I began to look for obvious issues such as flash or other irregularities with the plastic molding and could find none. Last, I started searching for build reviews of the kit online. There is not much out there, but with the few I found, other modelers ran into the same issues I am facing so it is recognized as an engineering failure with the kit. it's likely the prime reason one does not find many finished kits of the model finished on the net. The major fit issue I am seeing at this time is the fit of the upper gun cover to the lower fuselage. Other modelers found the exact same issue. A very small amount of plastic needs to be added to the front gun cover to close the gap between upper and lower parts. It's not a deal breaker as far as building the model is concerned, but it is disappointing considering the cost of the kit. It should have been better engineered. It is often said but bears repeating, if you want the best engineered, best fitting plastic kit, buy Tamiya. Everything else is second place or lower. This model has some nice features, but it is going to be a pin in the rear to get it done right.
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