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CDW
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Thanks Jack. I'll order some of those and give them a try. -
Admiralty model query
CDW replied to iMack's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Until reading this explanation, I had no idea my early (decades ago) career in land and construction surveying had so much in common with ship modeling terminology. Almost everything you said here about ship modeling/terminology mirror the principles, practice, and terminology of land surveying. 🙂 -
The dental cost situation seems universally bad. People in the USA take South American holidays just to get their dental work done. They can actually come out ahead by spending the money to vacation in South America at a resort and get their dental work done there at the same time. I spent well over $12,000 cash for dental work that was a total rip off. I trusted the dentist and got screwed, had to get extractions anyway in just a few years after the expensive "fix".
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Slog Your decal work looks great. I've had good and bad experiences with Micro Sol, but it seems mostly due to the decal material itself. I cannot recall with certainty the name of it, but there once was a model rail road decal solution that was my go-to for best results. I believe it was named "solvaset", or something close to that. Canute will probably know if he reads this. I'm still searching for a go-to clear coat. Tamiya clear is just not as reliable as I would like. Don't know of a better alternative right now, but I'm still searching.
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I have the Revell 1:72 U-boat and thought it was rather large. This 1:48 scale model makes mine look tiny in comparison.
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I have ordered 6 different aircraft from WnW to take advantage of that massive sale. Even with postage from New Zealand, there's considerable savings to be realized from retail price in the USA. PS: I forgot to mention...unless I follow the link you provided, I cannot see the sale prices. I made a mistake initially by going a direct link to wingnutwings DOT com, but that will not show their sale. If someone else wants the sale prices, they need to click on the link you provided, not by going directly to wingnut wings main web address directly.
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Thanks for the nice comments. Yes indeed, it will be added. There are a lot of little details that need to be painted on as well as adding some parts to the wings. Right there on that little plate in the middle of each wing root go 4 turn buckles. Then there are more turn buckles that are added to other parts of the lower and upper wings as well as to the fuselage. The old WW1 era biplanes had lots of small bits and pieces scattered all over each aircraft. Some of the later aircraft, like the Fokker D.VII eliminated a lot of that to make the airframes more aerodynamic and slippery (faster 🙂).
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Preview dry fit of coming steps...quite a few details to be added before the wings and struts can be permanently mounted.
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Here the color coats have been applied over the preshaded wings. Colors are Tamiya, the mauve color being one mixed in the recommended ratio provided in the painting instructions. A trace of paint slipped past my masking of the lower right wing that will require some touch up. 😕 Maybe I should leave it as-is just to add a human touch.
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With WW1 aircraft as well as some early WW2 aircraft, the airframes are covered with fabric then doped and painted. One can see the pronounced effect of the fabric stretched over the airframe where each wing rib is clearly seen by the imprint it makes upon the fabric. When modeling these aircraft, one wants to achieve the illusion of depth in the painted finish to simulate the stretched fabric covering the airframe, particularly between each wing rib. Here you see the molded plastic wing. Over each rib is a "tape" that was used to strengthen the fabric where covered the ribs. To achieve the illusion of depth, each wing rib is preshaded with flat black on each side of each rib, leaving the rib tape it's natural plastic color. Once the color coats are sprayed on, the rib tapes will stand out in light contrast to the surrounding darker paint and giving the painted finish "depth". When modeling and painting a steel ship, this is called oil canning. I use a business card or index card to cover each rib as I gradually preshade each side of each rib. Later in this thread, you'll see the clearly pronounced effect of the preshading on the finish paint.
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It takes a very steady hand to do what you're doing. One slip and the bit goes through. Kudos for taking on that tedious task.
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I should have mentioned earlier...these are home made turn buckles. Twisted micro wire gets inserted and glued into micro brass tubing. Flying wires are seized onto the twisted wire loops. Easy peasy.
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Thanks to both of you for your comments. Yes, the tops of the top and bottom wings will receive the same color combination.
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Worked on the stabilizers tonight with color coats. Not much, really.
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When you watch that video, you'll see the '60's sidewinders must acquire the target at less than 20 degrees from the afterburner, and everything is within visual range... Today, weapons systems can track, lock, and fire upon multiple targets at once, many many miles beyond visual range. Aspect angle is not even a thing anymore compared to what it once was. A modern fighter can lock on and fire upon a target at any angle. Now as to whether or not the F-8 could maneuver sufficiently to gun fight a modern aircraft, that's another story.
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All that hard work is going to produce outstanding results. The photo etch is beautiful.
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Yesterday's weapon systems cannot favorably compare to today's weapons systems, period. It would be a turkey shoot.
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Wasn't that at a time when the USN decided their new aircraft must have two engines rather than one? It made the Super Crusader a non-contestant.
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Around here, those little local household stores have closed their doors, particularly the ones owned by moms and pops. Except for (maybe) the stores we once had called "Radio Shack", I don't ever recall seeing fuse wire for sale in a store in my area.
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Is that the software that comes with the decal-making and paper package, Denis?
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Nice work, OC. Where do you acquire your fuse wire? I love keeping stuff like that fuse wire on hand...it always comes in handy for modeling projects. I often strip all the wires out of old appliances and computers to later strip away the insulation and use the stranded wire inside for similar things as you are doing here.
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