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CDW

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Everything posted by CDW

  1. Beautiful aircraft. Was that strut added in the field? Looks like it would be easy enough to model by adding it from scratch.
  2. Denis Man, those Albatros decal sheets are awesome! It's hard not to love WW1 aircraft for their colorful markings. Your 1:28 Fokker is not an easy kit to find any more. I think the last time I saw that kit available was around the millennium. Maybe RoG has re released it since then?
  3. The colors used are call outs found in the instructions. The instruction booklet contains quite a few detailed photos of each of the subject sections of the aircraft. Unfortunately the photos are old WW1 black and white, not color.
  4. Hi Vossie Thanks for stopping by and sharing your Albatros knowledge with me. I looked for the extra strut in the kit, but none is supplied. The kit provides marking choices for 5 different aircraft: Eduard Ritter Schleich, Jasta 21, Sept. 1917; Ottomar Hagenmuller MFJ 1, late 1917; Otto Kissenberth, Jasts 16b, mid 1917; Fritz Rumey, Jasta 5, March 1917; Ernest Udet, Jasta 37, mid 1917. Right now, I am inclined to choose the Rumey version if for no other reason, I like the colorful markings and paint.
  5. Thanks OC and JCT, for your support. Just to give an idea of the fit of this kit, here are some photos that show the dry fit of the fuselage halves with the inner bulkheads inside. Once a little thin Tamiya cement is applied to the seam line, the joint will virtually disappear. A very well engineered kit. With all the inner bulkheads, it's a testament to the company's attention to detail for this to fit that well.
  6. Very sorry to hear that you've been in pain. Hope you get to a dentist and get that problem/s taken care of. They won't get better all by themselves. Untreated, more serious problems can develop.
  7. Work went slower than I wanted to do the cockpit area, but it was fun and again, a learning experience. While the parts for these Wingnut Wings models are beautifully molded, they are (some) very small and easily broken if handled too heavy. I broke several pieces along the way. At the forward bulkhead, you'll see the gun magazines in aluminum paint, and a fuel tank in brass paint. Added details not included in the kit are switch levers on the instrument panels made from soft fine brass wire; a bulkhead cover on the aft bulkhead made from paper to simulate a canvas cover on the real plane, fuel lines on the fuel tank made from soft brass wire; control cables made from ez line for the control stick to the control surfaces. Next is the engine bay. v
  8. Thanks JCT. Appreciate that encouragement.
  9. Two of the best friends I ever had were both sergeant majors, both US Army Airborne. Both were veterans of WW2, Korea, and Vietnam. Lots of wisdom from those two and better friends one could never have.
  10. Another great looking model for your display cabinet. Beautiful, colorful, paint and markings.
  11. Wow Jessie, I had to look at that top photo three or four times before I realized it was your model. It looks like the real thing! Beautiful.
  12. Oh yes, they are perfectly suited for use as a wash. Their composition is what we used for many years prior to today's wealth of pre-made wash products.
  13. It's their product number 87140. Essentially, it's a turpentine and dark ochre oil mix. (I should have said "burnt umber" mix)
  14. Thanks James. It's my first Wingnut Wings kit and so far, am very impressed with their attention to detail and quality.
  15. Looks great OC. How are those masts holding up to the tensioning created by all the rigging? They look nice and straight.
  16. I had a big crush on Gayle McCormick in 1969. Such a babe, and what a set of pipes! Her voice was ever bit as strong as Janice Jopplin.
  17. Here is the new technique I tried. Step 1 - Paint "plywood area" with a base coat of Tamiya flat white. Step 2 - Make irregular brush strokes with yellow ochre ink over the primed area. Step 3 - Blend ink (after 10 minutes drying time) using a brush dampened with water and maintain irregular brush strokes. Step 4 - Coat of Tamiya clear yellow. Step 5 - Coat of Tamiya clear orange. Step 6 - Coat of Tamiya clear. In retrospect, next time I will make my ink strokes heavier and a little more profound to show the "grain" a little better. I may have gone a little too heavy on the yellow and orange clear coats. Learning experience.
  18. I am stunned at those reduced prices. What a deal.
  19. Thanks Ken. No, WnW hasn't done Spads yet, but I'll bet they will eventually. For now, go for a Roden kit of the Spad. They do it in 1:32. Not sure of fit and finish but should be good.
  20. I think the finishing touch is the Tamiya dark brown wash at the end. It tones down the bright metal finish and blends it all together.
  21. I got lucky - the placards came on the decal sheet. Thanks!
  22. I'm going to be using inks and water colors (pencil water colors) to reproduce the plywood look of the Albatros airframe. I've seen master modelers do it and it looks quite convincing. Me?, who knows how it will come out but I'm going to give it a try anyway. I'll first be laying down a primer coat of Tamiya flat white (I already did that tonight and let it dry), then the inks go on second with some fancy brush work, some stray water color pencil, then Tamiya clear yellow, then clear orange, then regular clear. Phew!
  23. Thanks Lou. I like listening to a variety of music, but blues and rock are my favorites. I'm going to try some techniques when I paint this model I've never tried before. We'll just have to wait and see how it comes out cause I really don't know.
  24. Sweet Mossie! How did I miss this thread until now? Looking forward to this tribute to your dad. Check out this video by Kermit Weeks. He is a local aviation enthusiast and owns a fleet of vintage WW2 and WW1 aircraft, including this Mossie. He flies them almost every day, too.
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