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CDW
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Everything posted by CDW
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I just bought a set of those paints a couple of weeks ago, but have not tried them yet. They have been received with good reviews. -
Certain panels left off may have something to do with it. If you look at the picture at the top of the Zoukei Mura webpage found in the following link, you can see the same gap in the part as I encountered it. They just left their's as-is and to be totally honest, it doesn't look too bad like that once the whole model is painted, detailed, and finished. But the gap is obvious. http://www.zoukeimura.co.jp/en/products/sws01_shinden_cl.html
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I'm pluggin' away on this thing, little by little. There are so many fuselage and wing skin panels that go on this model and each one has to be test fitted and sometimes filed/sanded a bit for them to fit properly. It's a shame because much of the difficulty comes when the internal structures get covered up by the skins. The fit is so tight and fiddly. No fear, it's getting there.
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Thanks OC. Can't rush these things or it will be worse rather than better.
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I believe this little issue is just about resolved now. With the strip stock added and a little shaping/sanding, there is a much better fit between the upper and lower gun cowling.
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Do either of you remember this old custom rod? When it came out, they sold for $2 if I remember correctly. Later on, they boxed this and the Tognotti T together as a 2-in-1 kit. At one time, I had numerous copies of this kit in my stash, but when they started going for over $100 each in the Ebay glory days, I sold off all but this one copy. Sometimes I regret selling off some of those old kits like this one, but I did get very tidy sums for them.
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It reminds me of the old Renwal kits that had all the detail inside but the outer panels never fit. But that was long ago and not quite as unforgivable as today where there are so many more tools for the designer in the way of 3D CAD. Yes, that bulkhead was obviously what I first suspected as the problem, but if it were shortened/reshaped, the panels behind it would not fit. As it is, the panels aft of the pieces seen in the pictures fit just fine. Like a good carpenter, I am measuring multiple times and taking a cautious approach to what I cut.
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These photos give a better idea of the gap I'm trying to fix. I glued on some .030" x .060" styrene strip stock, and once it's thoroughly dry, will shape it down to fit as close as possible to hide that ugly gap. Will have to re establish some rivet/fastener detail that will need to be replaced after it's all done.
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Thanks for the comments and likes, guys.
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I don't know yet about the engine cover fit, but in one build review I read, the author only found the fit of the forward gun cover to be a major issue. It is my intention to cut/remove certain panels to allow some of the internal detail to be seen. Most of it gets completely covered up unless the builder desires to customize/make some provision to allow it to be seen. There were only two prototypes of this airplane that were actually built before the war ended. Photos of maintenance panels removed are hard (maybe impossible?) to come by. Of the two prototypes, neither had guns installed, so this part of the kit is speculative and perhaps based upon design drawings.
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After the basic airframe, attention gets focused on the fuselage skins. Unfortunately, I quickly began to realize there were fit problems. At first, I wondered if it was something I had done or failed to do in earlier stages of construction, but couldn't find anything. Then I began to look for obvious issues such as flash or other irregularities with the plastic molding and could find none. Last, I started searching for build reviews of the kit online. There is not much out there, but with the few I found, other modelers ran into the same issues I am facing so it is recognized as an engineering failure with the kit. it's likely the prime reason one does not find many finished kits of the model finished on the net. The major fit issue I am seeing at this time is the fit of the upper gun cover to the lower fuselage. Other modelers found the exact same issue. A very small amount of plastic needs to be added to the front gun cover to close the gap between upper and lower parts. It's not a deal breaker as far as building the model is concerned, but it is disappointing considering the cost of the kit. It should have been better engineered. It is often said but bears repeating, if you want the best engineered, best fitting plastic kit, buy Tamiya. Everything else is second place or lower. This model has some nice features, but it is going to be a pin in the rear to get it done right.
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Is this the tank you bought? https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Military_Vehicles/MGK0000TS36/product.php?gclid=Cj0KCQiAp7DiBRDdARIsABIMfoB7vm7stbu5-KYLSnMHVYcEA3ujAVlu95A4DZokwNpjVVismjWQwVEaAihxEALw_wcB
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Indeed, it looks amazing! Very well done Seymore. It's going to be fun watching your next build, whatever it is.
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Thanks for the kind words guys. As a mater of fact, I do have some sci fi items to do. Been holding onto them for way too long.
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Beginning the airframe, cockpit tub, and gun bays. Paints used: Tamiya aluminum, gloss black, gloss clear, flat clear. Mr Color IJN Green, Metal Iron, black wash
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The Revell kit of the Challenger was a nightmare for me to build back then as well. I want to try it again one day to see if it got any easier.
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Indeed, a great link. Thanks!
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Another memory... It was 1975, the Gator Nationals. Kris Karamesines (The Golden Greek) campaigned a AA Fuel Dragster that was painted in a beautiful black finish and all the parts were typically chromed or polished aluminum were gold plated. The rail got out of sorts from the start and he lost control of the car rolling over several times and parts/pieces flying everywhere. While most of the fans were concerned about Karamesines' well being, he jumped out of the wreckage and ran all over the track picking up gold plated pieces. It was pretty hilarious (and sad at the same time), and he was obviously worried about fans picking up gold plated souvenirs before he could collect them. Probably some fans did pick up gold plated souvenirs.
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That particular technique by Revell has probably caused quite a few good men to cuss. (me included)
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A little wet sanding with 2000 grit can work wonders. I'm guessing your temp inside was cool and you got a little orange peel.
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Thanks Denis. The seat belts are part of a small photo accessory etch set made by Eduard for Zoukei-Mura.
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A preview of the Shinden business office. Still more work to be done to call it finished.
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One other tip about photo etch. If you use CA, and the excess glue becomes smeared on the surrounding plastic or on top of your photo etch, use a Q Tip dampened with CA debonder to remove the excess. Only use enough debonder on the Q Tip to dampen, not saturate it. Too much obviously may cause your part to become unfastened.
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- john brown
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With a siphon feed airbrush, an often overlooked source of flow blockage comes when the tiny vent hole on top of the jar lid is blocked, but my first guess would be your percentage of reducer : paint is too low. In that case, the siphon is not capable of pulling the mixture through the feeder tube. I have never used Life Color paints so I don't know the viscosity you're starting with. Sometimes, even a 50 : 50 mix of paint to reducer is too low and you may have to simply increase the percentage amount of reducer until it will flow through. I am using the same bottle of Gator's Grip glue for almost three years now. Since it's water based, you'll need to keep it at/near room temperature. Over time it will thicken, just add distilled water to reduce it to the viscosity you want.
- 106 replies
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- 7
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- trumpeter
- john brown
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