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Everything posted by CDW
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I think I might use epoxy for both tasks. The shafts maybe need a box form inside to give it a little bit of depth so the epoxy won't easily crack. Maybe just an 1/8", maybe 1/4" deep or so. The brackets I think I would epoxy in place on the hull and not drill it. If I did drill it, it would be to insert small wooden dowels that I could sand smooth once the epoxy had cured. Granted, they would not be readily removable after that, but it would eliminate the worry of leaks.
- 146 replies
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- dumas
- Chris-Craft Commander Express
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Here are some pictures of the 1:700 scale ship models and aftermarket sets. Only the Nagato plastic parts are not sealed in their factory bags inside the box. The Nagato detail set includes 11 photo etch sheets, a very detailed set. The wooden deck has it's own photo etch sheet as well. All the other ship models have plastic parts sealed inside the bags as they come from the factory. The Dragon Models Tirpitz comes with it's own factory photo etch sheet. This is a good deal for someone who can use them.
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Collected all these 1:700 ships and accessories with good intentions on building them, but they are just too small for me to see & do them justice. 1. Aoshima Nagato 1944 Leyte Gulf (Waterline) **Hunter Wooden Deck **Lion Roar complete Detail Set including multiple sheets of photo etch, brass gun barrels, and resin. 2. Fujimi Yamato Full Hull Version Kit #1 3. Fujimi Saratoga Carrier Waterline Version 4. Fujimi Musashi Waterline Version 5. Dragon Tirpitz Full Hull 6. Tamiya BB-62 New Jersey Waterline Version None of the models have been started. There may be some parts that are off the sprue. Will let them all go to a good home for $100 shipped to any one of the 48 states of the Cont. USA Payment via Paypal goods and services If interested, please PM me. Craig W Florida
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Beautiful, Mike. Those red flower bushes in the background remind me of being a kid...we would pluck the flowers and suck the nectar from the base of the flowers. Sometimes, there might be insects inside, but it never stopped us from doing it. The nectar was very sweet.
- 146 replies
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- dumas
- Chris-Craft Commander Express
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I really like the idea of doing a contemporary ship model. It's actually one I recently considered doing myself but am glad to see you doing it instead. Will be looking forward to your future posts and progress photos.
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Wow, that takes patience to spend a day rolling all those little paper tubes on the funnels. Looks great!
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Did you drill out all those portholes in the hull? Looks very nice and detailed. I have some great 1:700 models and detail sets that will not get built by me. They are just too small for me to focus on all the details.
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Wow, that is awesome!
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Great report, Lee. Glad to know you're having success with your cutter. I have watched quite a few videos of the Micro Mark offering in action. They advertise it is capable of 12" wide material up to 10 feet long. It looks interesting but I'm not ready to pull the trigger to buy one just yet. I wish I could test their scanning software and determine how precise it is (the cut) before I actually laid out the money for one. Seems like a roll of the dice.
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Hey Ron What I specifically was thinking about is whether the machine is accurate enough to cut out paper ship model parts? Not to draw paper ship models on my own, but rather to use existing pages of paper ship models and have the machine cut them out? I'm guessing it is not precise enough to do this.
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I saw this new tool in the Micro Mark email advertising. Have also seen similar products in the craft store chain, like Michaels. In the Micro Mark description of the tool, it describes the capability of scanning and perhaps digitizing sketches for cutting. It appears the tool can cut all sorts of shapes and in lots of different mediums. I am wondering if there would be any useful application for card ship modeling and cutting out parts. Perhaps the technology is not yet refined enough to be as precise as what is required for ship modeling? I don't know, but would hesitate to spend this much for something that had no practical value. Has anyone had any experience with this type of machine who could comment on it? https://www.micromark.com/Silhouette-CAMEO-3-electronic-cutting-tool
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Dan - is laminating the decks a recommended procedure described in the instructions, or is it just best management practice you have learned from experience?
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Everything is shaping up beautifully, Cog. Those single AA guns must be a real eye test to build.
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When it comes time I actually do start one of my card models, your build logs will help give me much more confidence and hopefully help me better understand what kind of things I need to pay close attention to. Fitting those hull panels, putty and touch-ups. Seems like you have really made quick progress on this model. I would dread to think I had to cut out all the chipboard frames for a model like this. Seems that laser cut frames are the way to go by far.
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This is something very pleasing to behold. As you said, with all these oars, "hedgehog" is a perfect way to describe it. Really ingenious how you thought of using the lead foil to simulate leather. It's very convincing, yet simple and uncluttered.
- 473 replies
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- greek bireme
- dusek
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To simulate glass on small portholes, could you use Micro Crystal Clear instead of the mylar? Being water based, maybe it would have undesired consequences on the paper, I don't know.
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I think Robin is putting us on about this being his first wooden ship model. If it is his first, man, we are in for some good stuff if he continues to build wooden models. Just kidding with you Robin. I do believe it is your first, but it is so very nice. Great 1st wooden model!
- 473 replies
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- greek bireme
- dusek
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Above is very good advice concerning CA and epoxy fumes.
- 961 replies
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