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CDW

NRG Member
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Everything posted by CDW

  1. Oh, it's way better than that. It's 4.19 per bottle (Tamiya thin cement) VS: 1.20 per bottle (when refilled using the Tamiya airbrush cleaner). It's less than 1/3 the cost.
  2. The bottles of Tamiya airbrush cleaner contain the exact same active ingredient as Tamiya thin cement. The airbrush cleaner contains 240 ml while the thin cement contains 40 ml. My supplier sells the airbrush cleaner for 7.29 per bottle while thin cement sells for 4.19. You can refill your thin cement bottle over 6 times with one bottle of airbrush cleaner. It all does the same thing only at a fraction of the cost. Just thought you might want to know how to save a few bucks.
  3. I admire your work and patience. I bought one man army masks for my Border Models Lancaster. Now I’m wondering how complex those are going to be.
  4. Hey, don't be sorry. Beauty is always in the eye of the beholder and I make no pretense of the fact that my model will be less than perfect. If I wanted/demanded closer to scale perfection, I would spend $600 for a Model Factory Hiro kit. Instead, I'll enjoy this old, much less costly Revell kit and dress it up a bit. Rivet counters may be disappointed but none ever visit my humble abode to peruse my model shelves anyway. I don't mind you criticizing my long nipples, just don't try to rub them.😄
  5. Now that's something I never tried, letting the decals soak in water that long. It makes sense and surely is worth a try. It will be a while before I actually need the decals, just thinking ahead. Decal sheet says, printed in Italy, so they could possibly be Cartograf. I'll let you know how the Cricut adventure goes.
  6. I agree with your assessment. I will do just that but hold little/no hope for a Microscale Decal Film resurrection from the dead. My batting average with this is near-zero once the decals have reached the state this sheet is in. The glue/adhesive is dead underneath the film. I'm also going to give my daughter a crack at making a stencil for me with her Cricut machine. Not sure it can handle lettering this small though, but she thinks it can. We shall see. In the meantime, I wrote Revell Germany on the off chance I may be able to acquire a replacement from them. Over 20 years old, I kinda doubt it but it's worth a try.
  7. I’m wondering how to handle my need for decals/lettering. Decal sheet is kaput. Gold metallic colors. Not printer friendly.
  8. Some of the South American immigrants coming into the USA are very proficient tree climbers/trimmers. A much needed skill set here in Florida. Impressive balance at heights.
  9. Utilizing that helpful MFH spoke lacing diagram, I think I have the spacing sequence correct now. Making slow but steady progress in between “honey-do’s”. You know the old saying, “happy wife, happy life”.
  10. Thanks for the heads up on that. That's the most helpful diagram I have seen for the spoke pattern. Thanks! I've got the opportunity to sort mine out at this juncture. Later on, not as much. I knew there was something I was missing, but this shows me everything. If I was going to shell out the money for a MFH kit, I would be hard pressed to decide which one. A 1:12 '58 Ferrari Testarossa is one of the most tempting.
  11. Where each spoke attaches to the hubs, will run a small bead of superglue or maybe epoxy all around to insure a strong bond. The outer portion of the spokes at the rims get sandwiched between each rim half so there is little worry about those becoming dislodged later on.
  12. After the spokes are assembled, will paint the wheels in a metallic silver to simulate polished metal. Probably will use Mr Color Super Silver as it's got very fine silver pigments and looks convincing. Will need to first do a black undercoat as the super silver responds well to that.
  13. I started by stripping the plating from the chrome tree, then started removing the thick out of scale spokes in order to replace them with micro thin stainless steel wire using micro aluminum tubing as the spoke nipples. Each wheel half carries 20 spokes for a total of 40 spokes per wheel. I have never used this particular method to replace the plastic spokes but after seeing others do it decided to give it a try. Those thick plastic spokes really put me off.
  14. I've got two of the models unbuilt in storage. Don't recall exactly how I ended up with two of them, but here they are. Best I recall, their construction and general qualities are more robust though not as finely detailed as more modern Trumpeter kits. They are an oddball 1:125 scale. Several or more detail improvement sets are available for them if somebody wanted to go a more highly detailed route. Next time I get a chance, I'll drag one out of storage and send it to you if you want to do one. I'd just like to see somebody build the thing and use it.
  15. Have you ever built a Lindbergh Blue Devil destroyer? It crudely represents a Fletcher class destroyer and is suitable for RC. It’s somewhere around-about 3 feet long when completed.
  16. Yes, what Andrew said. You've done an outstanding job on this little jewel Mike.
  17. Just to look at this car today, it's impossible to believe this technology is now more than 30 years old. Wow. You did an outstanding restoration of the model. I have a few nice collectible models of a similar restoration needs and this inspires me to put it on the "to-do" list.
  18. Hey - I like this a lot. Nice model and one not often seen in balsa like this one is done.
  19. Best wishes for your move. I’ll be watching for your next model.
  20. Final photos Thanks to all for following along, for all your helpful comments and facts, for your likes and in general all the fellowship we enjoy while sharing these little projects. It's time now to close this one out and head off to another fun-filled adventure....the Vincent Black Shadow to be specific.
  21. Wow, I like this a lot. Very nice indeed. She must take up a lot of shelf space.
  22. I would call the colors, parade dress. No camo here, none whatsoever. 😄
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