CDW

Looks awesome, Mike. Great job my friend, wonderful detail work. Water came out fantastic, too.

Looks awesome, Mike. Great job my friend, wonderful detail work. Water came out fantastic, too.

Looks awesome, Mike. Great job my friend, wonderful detail work. Water came out fantastic, too.

Looks awesome, Mike. Great job my friend, wonderful detail work. Water came out fantastic, too.

You really did that little orphan some justice, Mike. Great looking ship, exceptional colors.

Looks awesome, Mike. Great job my friend, wonderful detail work. Water came out fantastic, too.

You really did that little orphan some justice, Mike. Great looking ship, exceptional colors.

You really did that little orphan some justice, Mike. Great looking ship, exceptional colors.

If it's any consolation, a prop shaft should be one of the easiest things to replace from scratch. I feel certain you have the skills to remedy that problem if you want to take the time to do it.

If it's any consolation, a prop shaft should be one of the easiest things to replace from scratch. I feel certain you have the skills to remedy that problem if you want to take the time to do it.

If it's any consolation, a prop shaft should be one of the easiest things to replace from scratch. I feel certain you have the skills to remedy that problem if you want to take the time to do it.

Clever idea, using those empty frames to form your strips. 

I Christen thee Caribbean Breeze. 

Hi All,
Still working on the "Beastie.... 🙂)
 
Small update:
 
Sanded down slightly "Proud" Portholes, (Emery Paper), and started on the Stern Grab Rails.
I was not happy at all with my efforts so removed them. I particularly do not like the paper templates provided.
 
Filled the holes that I had created and primed the sanded areas and manufactured another bunch of rails with longer "Legs'"
The Plan going forward is to make a drilling template for these items with hopefully more success. (I'll be able to see the holes on the primed surface and I located a 0.5mm drill for the rail "Legs."
 
I turned a couple of pedestals and sorted ot some suitable wood for a plinth.
(Both "Rimu" pronounced Reemoo. 🙂
 
(Gives me some "Thinking" time for developing a suitable template. If anyone has ideas, I'm all Ears!!)
 
Sorry, that's all for the mo.
 
Cheers....HOF.

A quick update on the BENSWORX Virtual kit, slightly improved. I have been working on the main bridge and this is the result.
 
The main bridge is printed in one large part: 
 

 
Resulting in this solid bridge: 
 

 
There are pros and cons with this way of doing. The Pros are that the part is very sturdy, easy to remove from the main cabin (for RC application) and relatively easy to finish. The Cons are that it does not offer too many details and makes the planking of the bridge, a tedious challenge. The original bridge was surrounded by canvas stretched on a tubular structure. The 3D print renders some of that aspect, at least from the inside. Anal modelers will likely cut everything and build the sides from soldered brass wires, covered by a thin canvas made of fabric. I thought about that .... for about one minute.
 

 
Planking takes a lot of precise and small cuts and is labor of patience. I used two varieties of wood and I am not sure if the central part is planked or not. It probably is.... 
 

 
On the rear wall, the small shelves are used to store all the pennants and flags. This is again highly simplified on this 3D kit.
 
A coat of AGE-IT finishes the wood and gives it a nice blond hue: 
 

 
Then, it is the relatively easy task of gluing all the parts, after painting them. The radar enclosure is unfortunately simplified and would have to be entirely rebuilt, if you wanted to replace the solid PLA by transparent films.
 

 
Overall, the end result is not too bad and blends harmoniously with the rest of the ship.
 

 
The shielding panels are installed, in the front and sides of the bridge. The rear wall of the bridge was apparently not protected, according to the pictures I saw.
 

 

 
The two Oerlikon guns were printed using a resin printer.
 

 

 
I need to find some Canadian sailors to populate that bridge.....
 

 
The radar (above) is carefully painted to simulate the inside of the radar enclosure (dark). That part could be represented with a canvas covering it, if you decide to picture your Corvette in a harbor.
 

 

 
The staircase going to the main deck and the ammos storage bins.
 

 
I have added a small windshield which is not part of the kit.
 

 

 
Overall view of the beast: 
 

 

 

 
I still have to work on the mast and finish the 6th module, comprising the depth charges deck and stern.
 
I hope you are enjoying that big project.
 
Yves
 
 
 
 
 
 

So glad to know you made it through surgery okay, but sad to learn recovery will be a longer process.
I once had a Toyota Land Cruiser fall on top of me and it broke my shoulder. I was so sore after the third day it was unbelievable. Took quite a while to get past the soreness. Get plenty of rest and follow instructions. They know how to help you best get through the process without undue difficulty.

Hoping the best for you in surgery tomorrow, HOF. I bet you will be back stronger than ever.

I would like to point out that even though the hardware/fittings package cost an additional $200.00, it did include several upgraded parts such and plastic hatch covers, doors, brackets, which or crane parts. All of those in the original kit would have to be cut out and made of wood, which looked awful.

I was able to spend a few hours working on the Nordkap today and have the super structure of the deck housing installed as well as a few other odds and ends. The entire super structure is removeable to allow access to the motor bay in the hull as well as the rudder. You will have to esxcuse the messy work area, that is my process.

Outstanding work, one of the best I've ever seen. Hope to see more of your work in the future.

Hi All,
Small update:
 
After three or so days I have completed the Port and Starboard Hangers. (PE anyway. (I identified the "Issue" that contain the Plastic elements for these and other sub-assemblies. I don't think I'll put these on just yet...))
 
I'm unsure what I'll go with next, I was leaning towards completing the Hull.
Also tempted with cladding the forward Superstructure.
Maybe Boats/Launches. (These remind me of things that used to be in Cereal packets that myself and my sister used to fight over.... 🙂
 
Cheers....HOF.
 
Anyway, a couple of photos of the Hangers, not perfect but good enough:
 
 
 
 

I'm on the home stretch with this build.  Managed to add some other details including the wood slats in the rack near the funnels (used some cherry veneer I had, cut into thin strips and used wipe-on poly), then weathered and added the final clear coat last night.  Will add the torpedos and carts, the small boats, and figures, and then rig the model and add flags.  For my first 1/350 plastic ship model, I'm really pleased with how it's turning out.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
As a little preview, given how fast and sleek the Shimakaze was, ever since I got the kit, I thought presenting the ship in a waterline setting would really show it off.  So, I built a waterline diorama base for the model as well.  It's made of foam board using the crinkled aluminum foil technique.  I built the frame for the diorama using balsa strips that I got from National Balsa in the thickness I needed, that I cut to size and stained.  I first practiced making a waterline diorama for my 1/700 destroyer, which is just about done, and can post pictures of it in the next couple of days.  This one obviously is a little bigger but so far so good.  
 
 
 
 
Thanks for looking in!
 
 

The last boat was added and then the PE rails started. I cut the runs into shorter sections and then attached them using Gators Grip glue. I give it glue a few minutes to tack up a bit before putting the railings into place. I have found this way makes the railings a much less frustrating experience. However, I found my lousy planning skills let me down again. Early on in the build I found one of the railing sections was breaking away from the fret and knowing if i left it it would end up damaged, I decided to cut it completely free and keep it out of harm's way. And i forgot all about it when painting came around so its sat there in its native brass colour. I don't feel like loading teh airbrush up with primer and then grey for one strip of railing so it will sit in abeyance until I start the next kit and hopefully, I will remember to paint it then. In the meantime I added the booms and the decals as well as a wash to the funnel. I'll do the weathering once the last railings are in place and the touching up is complete.

 

 

 

 
Thanks for looking in
Alan

Hi All,
Small update:
 
Completed and cleaned up Rangefinders.
 
Issue # 77: Bridge Wings constructed (2nd orphan.🙂)
(Issue #77 had some Decking pieces that I wanted some time ago)
I think that these components are my best PE effort thus far.
 
I'll probably have a go at this tomorrow, PE boat/launch skids on roof of central Hangar.
 
(Found a plastic organizer for the growing quantity of sub-assemblies. 🙂)
 
Cheers....HOF.
 
Photos:
 
 

I was searching various sources for 1:700 HMS Hood accessory/upgrade sets when I found the I Love Kit version of the 1:700 scale HMS Hood on Amazon. The kit immediately caught my attention as it contained every upgrade component you would want to fully update the Trumpeter model, plus the kit itself! All of this was a bargain price of around $60 shipped when I bought mine in May. At this time, I can no longer find it for sale on Amazon, however there is a dealer or two on Ebay who are selling it for just a little bit more than I paid for mine.
 
This being said, let's move on to see what you get. When the model arrived, the first thing I noticed was the weight of it. It was unusually heavy for a 1:700 scale ship model weighing in at just under 2 pounds. What I discovered is that much of the weight is in the heavy duty cardboard box it comes in. Very sturdy and substantial box that found it's way from China to Florida without any damage. A plus! First the box art:
 

 
Where it gets remarkable is when you get inside the box. All the molded plastic components are contained inside two more internal boxes:
 

 
Then when you open the full color high quality instruction set and realize what you get is a complete Pontos Detail Set inside!
 
 
 
Here are all the component parts inside:
 

 
I am looking forward to starting this model in a few more days.