JeffT

Welcome aboard!

Hello Dave, and a warm welcome to MSW from 'Down Under'.
 
John

I did forget to add: If anyone has any good builds to semi-start over from to knock some rust off. I am open to suggestions. Looking around for now. 

It's been about 2 decades since I last did any modeling. Traveling to 3rd world countries bringing peace and prosperity and other surprises. Makes the delicate work, time, and constant moving of models challenging. Retired now and looking for things to fill the time void, I have decided to jump back in. Gardening just doesn't do it for me. Dust off some old tools, etc. My dad was deep into re-creation, mostly planes and cars, the occasional boat and submarine. I do remember 1 nice ferry he had done, Id love to do it one day, but I'll have to figure out what it was.  He had me start working with them when I was about 7-8 years old. Looking around things have changed a bit. Research is easier, and so is acquiring materials. It used to be some hard reading, trips to libraries, etc, but now a Google search turns most up. Happy to be here and getting back into it!  Happy new year all!

Last update this year I suppose  
 
The hull is now sanded smooth and the little cracks/deeper lying planks etc. are filled. Ready for the next step I guess.
I will test fit the prow/keel and sternpost patterns to see if it fits right, and maybe there are spots that need a little extra sanding (places around the tabs that are connected to the prow and keel). Also need to test fit the lower counter ofcourse. I think I also need to check if the upper hull side patterns are flush with the gunports inside. I haven't done that yet, but also didn't see it mentioned in the manual. Would be a good moment for that.
 

 

Since your building the Victory, 'though I'd post the image below.  I've seen versions done with just the first sections of mast - a step beyond an admiralty model with stubs - and there is a suspended build of another ship I'll probably finish that way ... 
 

I went a bit over board last night. I'm not sure how visible the inside of the gallery is once built so i decided to do this just in case.

I cut the upper false deck slots so its ready after sanding just to be installed. 

Plenty of progress. The hull is now complete.
 

 

 

 

 
Couple of hitches (i.e. mistakes on my part). Firstly didn't see that these parts were handed so had to remove and replace but easily done.
 

 
Then I misread the manual that these needed short pins not full nails, again fixed easily.
 

 

 

 

 
Started on the masts etc. Using masking tape to try and get all the tiny pieces correctly lined up.
 

 

 
Sails dyed and now washed, now drying.
 

 

 

I started the model a week before Christmas and have managed to make a little progress.
 
Bow & Stern Filler
Bow and Stern Filler pieces are made from a number of small MDF parts attached to a backing plate and sanded to shape with a rotary tool. Sanding was a little bit intimidating but came out just fine. The purple take in the third photo holds a temporary piece in place to protect two delicate vertical frame pieces.

Keel & Frames
I forgot to take a photo of the basic keel with frames attached, so I'll jump ahead a little here. The keel is a single piece of MDF, and the frames drop perfectly into slots. Nothing is glued at first. The manual says to place the lower deck with laser-burned planking lines on the frames. Neither the manual nor most of the build logs say anything about finishing the sub deck, but I went ahead and used a coat of Minwax Golden Oak oil stain and three coats of satin Polycrylic spray. Now I realize that you can't see that deck on the finished model, but hey, I know it's there.
 
Longitudinal gun port frames are attached to the top of the frames, then everything is glued with diluted PVA glue painted on from below. In this way the lower deck and longitudinal frames keep everything in alignment as the glue drys.
 
You know the laser-cut wooden toys/puzzles that are so common now? Names like ROKR, UGEARS, and RoWood? So far this model reminded me of those - no skill necessary. I think that planking the hull will be a different story.


Four lower coamings with gratings made of pear wood are assembled and attached to the lower deck.
Note to Self: These precisely thin laser-cut pieces can be extremely delicate! Don't ask me how I know.

The stern counter is made up of nine frames.

Horizontal supports for the gun deck are attached next, and then longitudinal supports are attached on top of them.

The kit includes a cradle to hold the model during construction. It matches two frames exactly, but until the hull is planked I am using two spring clamps to keep the hull from slipping off.
 
Next the gun sub-deck is attached in two pieces. Remember what I said about "no skill necessary?" I take that back. The gun deck was very hard to fit. The notches were all a little tight, and the two pieces wouldn't quite match up along the center line. I placed, removed, sanded, and replaced the two pieces for hours, and still ended up with gaps between them. Eventually a nicer deck will go over top so it won't matter.

I have the ultimation sander and cutter and really like them both.

Hi everybody! The hull has its upper half painted in light grey; specifically Tamiya XF-12 IJN Grey. BUT, this is over a light ghost grey Vallejo primer, preshaded using Tamiya XF-24 dark Grey, blended using Tamiya XF-66 Light Grey (not very light, mind you), and then finally top coated with the IJN grey. I feel this gives me the best depth and tonal variation and allowed me to play with the colors to show almost hint at a frame. I still have to mark a proper waterline, paint the black stripe, and then paint the hull red. The grey is the longest I've played with grey tones before and for a change I found it to be very enjoyable. Typically the painting is pure dread for me since I can never match what the masters before me have done.
 
I also constructed Step 1 finally. Some particular "Gotcha"s I came across along the way are all of the pieces are potential carpet monster meals. They are tiny! Also, some of the photo-etch in this kit really sucks. I mean it is terrible and there is no reason for it to be to begin with. The ATC windows, in white primer in one of the photos, is my solution to the photo-etch kit part. The macro is hell on such a tiny part, but from six inches away it does the trick. The photo-etch is made to show windows just like the real deal. The problem here is there is not a single piece of clear plastic to back it, but better yet, every other window on this ship represented in the kit, is molded as solid grey plastic with the intent of being painted. Why the ATC windows get the honorable, yet terribly executed photo-etch, we'll never know. Another dumb issue is the 4 pieces of photo-etch made to represent the vertical launch system tubes. 1. They'll almost never be noticed at all 2. The corrugated outsides will never be seen after gluing the deck in place 3. The inside, that would be visible (with opti-visor), is only plain, flat, shiny, and not etched with any detail in any way. I've included a pic of the instructions showing the offending photo-etch pieces. I opted to replace the ATC windows with styrene and completely disregarded the stupid vertical launch system parts. Hope you like the pics!
 




Below is my solution for the ATC windows. Again, macro is hell on tiny parts. HAHAHAHA




And below is a reminder to not forget to paint the inside bulwark here.

Thanks so much for looking!!!
 
 
 
 

I suspect because it was virtually the exact same dimensions as Victory Class, and after spending years developing such a kit, half your enquiries about the kit would be 'Yeah, but when is Victory available, I want Victory'

Post One hundred and Twenty-three
 
Naming the ship.
The kit provides a water-slide decal for the name with a spare just in case you mess it up.

001
An issue for me is that the lettering colour, fine for the kit indicated scheme, is a little bright for my scheme.
I decided to create my own version on word incorporating a curve to match the counter.
I chose Baskerville old face at 36pts which equates with the kit provided version.

3155a

3155b
I created two types as above.

3153
The solid background version was tested for fit on the model.
The background match to the stern paint looks pretty good to my eye.
 
Previously I have used Letraset dry rub transfers, a method I like, but I can’t seem to find the correct size or font in this medium.
Maybe just as well, with a name of thirteen letters, accurate positioning could prove a trial.
 
I have decided to go old school and use the printed version applied over the counter.
I did this for Sphinx, after Chuck’s ‘Winnie’ build, and that turned out well.

3160
The print was sprayed with fixative before cutting out using a template from the plan.

3170
I used spray mount applied to the back of the cut-out to fix into place.
 

3163
I think I could have imparted slightly more curve to the first and last two letters but overall, I like the look.

3168
The important thing is that I have proven the system to myself, and I can re-visit at any time.
 
B.E.
28/12/2023
 
 
 

You know we all been talking about the power tools that we like and I got to thinking.  Honestly, when I first got into the hobby of building plastic kits, model railroading, really the only power tool I had was a dremel.  The other tools were all hand tools.  x-acto knife, scale rule, some clothes pins for clamps, some rubber bands for clamping, toothpicks for a glue applicator.  Ya'll get the picture.
 
So, for anyone just starting out in the hobby, don't get all hung up on you HAVE to have all these power tools we're all talking about.  You can build some great looking models with just hand tools and a inexpensive dremel for cutting.  That's really all you need.  Then as time goes by and you want to buy some power tools, then go ahead.  But don't let all this talk about power tools keep you from getting into the hobby of building all kinds of models.
 
It's a great stress reliever and you may even find things that you thought you could never do really really enjoyable.
 
So give this hobby a try...  Ships, boats, cars, trucks, railroad, monsters, the list goes on and on.
 
Thanks again to everyone here, it's been a pleasure looking at all the fine builds you all do.  I keep striving to be a great of a modeler as you all are!!

As do I. Great tools.

I have the ultimation sander and cutter and really like them both.

I have the ultimation sander and cutter and really like them both.

I have the ultimation sander and cutter and really like them both.

I finished my Mississippi River Steamboat Robert E Lee in early October, and took a break from ships to build a TV console for my son and daughter-in-law. In the evenings I was looking for a new ship to build - something beautiful but challenging that would not need to go in a case.
 
I found a build log for HMS Fly (Amati) built by moderator @ccoyle. Chris built his model as a hull model, no masts, yards, or rigging. What a brilliant idea! He built all the fun bits without ending up with a dust catcher. I started searching for other ships that might look good as a hull model and found the Diana by Caldercraft. I asked Chris for advice, and he told me that my taste was consistent as both models had been designed by @chris watton, owner of Vanguard models. I ordered the Sphinx and had it within a week, but haven't been able to start it until now.
 
There are at least 18 build logs for the Sphinx on MSW, 7 finished, 3 in progress, and 8 stalled. Here are links to the finished logs for easy reference.
 
HMS Sphinx 1775 (prototype) by James H - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - FINISHED
12 pages, 5.5 months. This is the prototype build used for photos for the beautiful manual in the kit.
 
HMS Sphinx 1775 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale
29 pages, 16 months. Built as a hull-only model.
 
HMS Sphinx 1775 by Glenn Shelton (glennard2523) - Vanguard Models - 1:64
10 pages, 5 months. Glenn wasn't happy with his work (which looked great to me) and stopped with a hull only model.
 
HMS Sphinx 1775 by glennard2523 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - V2 Kit by Glenn Shelton
16 pages, 11 months. Glenn started over and completed an even nicer model.
 
HMS Sphinx 1775 by mtaylor - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64
17 pages, 10 months. Mark also stopped with a hull-only model. A very nice build.
 
HMS Sphinx by ECK - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64
Only 3 pages, 5 months. A fast build with a short log, but the model is gorgeous.
 
HMS Sphinx 1775 by Hollowneck - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64
19 pages, 16 months. Amazing model with full sails mounted in a diorama.
 

I didn't expect to have an update this soon.  I had one last day off for the Christmas holiday on Tuesday and made some progress getting the chain plate components ready. I thought I would give a little more detail on my process with the main mast than I did when I posted about the fore mast.  I am using 24 gauge black annealed wire.  I think it might be just a little on the heavy side for my scale, but I think it is not so over scale to look too big.  As I said in my earlier post, I am deviating from the plans provided by Occre which instructed to use a single strand of brass wire for the chain plate.  I am using the instructions for the US Brig Syren from Model Shipways as my basis for the chain plate. 
 
I started with the deadeye strops.  My jig was set up to create a strop that would measure about 5 mm from the bottom of the deadeye to the bottom of the strop.  I start by by creating a loop with the wire and wrapping it around the deadeye.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
I use round tipped pliers to pinch the wire tight around the deadeye and wrap the wire around the bottom nail on the jig.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Then simply cut the two ends to create the strop.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
I then placed the deadeyes in the channel and glued a strip of 1 mm x 2 mm wood to the channel to secure the deadeyes.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Next I assembled the middle links.  After trying a few different lengths to figure out the right combination, I settled on a length of 7mm.  I used a small vise grip pliers to hold one end of the wire and created a loop around the nails on my jig.  I then used a flat tipped pliers to create the shape I wanted.
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
I cut the loose ends of the wire and then used the flat tipped pliers to flatten and improve the shape of the middle link.  
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Pretty happy with the final result.  I will need to pry open the links to attach the middle links to the toe links and the strops.  
 

 
The process for the toe links started the same as the middle link, except when I cut the loose end I was careful to make the cut about 1/3 from the end of the loop.  I then placed the loop back onto the jig and used the round tipped pliers to close the loop.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
I then used the flat tipped pliers to add the bend in the link.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The last item is the preventer link.  This piece is slightly smaller at 5mm.  The process is the same as the toe link except the cut to remove the loose ends of the wire is made in the middle.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
I will make a few extra items in some different lengths to make adjustments to fit around the gun ports.  This is probably more detail that most of you want or need about how I made my chain plate components.  Next up will be serving the shrouds and getting the channels installed on the ship and the chainplate secured at the correct angles.  

That is really not too shabby a planking job, especially for a first model -- and a difficult one as well. A lot of first-timers don't even get this far, so you're doing great!

I just ordered this Pavel Nikitin kit but haven't received it yet.  Can't wait, this looks like a fantastic kit.