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HMS Victory by N80FTY - DeAgostini - 1:84 - first build


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Hi All,

 

This is my first build, I started it in April 2023. This is the stage it is at.

 

Port side which has had its first sand 24/12/23. Not had any wood fillers applied yet so will need a touch up

image.thumb.jpeg.ade08473d33f1f2b4df4d9ebb04f71cc.jpeg

 

Starboard side that still needs its first sanding.

image.thumb.jpeg.59e702f58a1fefb357d5d8ea12d6ff3d.jpeg

 

Hull as you can see Port side has had its first sanding. 

image.thumb.jpeg.8f0fd995942a536077e4427a18545393.jpeg

 

Top View of middle deck which I stencilled all the floor rather than just a section.

image.thumb.jpeg.63efbdd36401b024bd77878e13bbd137.jpeg

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That is really not too shabby a planking job, especially for a first model -- and a difficult one as well. A lot of first-timers don't even get this far, so you're doing great!

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix

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17 minutes ago, ccoyle said:

That is really not too shabby a planking job, especially for a first model -- and a difficult one as well. A lot of first-timers don't even get this far, so you're doing great!

Thanks Chris.

Its only been sanded with a 60grit so far to get rid of the main discrepancies. Once I've added the top planking, (poop, quarter deck, waist, forecastle) and fitted the keel and  ill give it a proper sanding. I was thinking a 320 grit. Would this be good enough or should I go finer. It will be a fully painted version. With either proper copper tiles if I can still get them or 6mm - (1/4") copper tape

 

Sorry forgot to say ill fill the small imperfections with Deluxe Model Lite Balsa, as I've read its pretty good and wont add too much weight to the model

Edited by N80FTY
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I thought I was the only one crazy enough to choose Victory for a first model, albeit 43 years ago.   Nice work so far.   With all the golf courses in your country I am not so sure I would ever have time to finish such a project.

Allan

SANTAS_CART_2020__18208.thumb.jpg.207a114a282dc1b2ec5d92bacb33dc54.jpg

Edited by allanyed

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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58 minutes ago, N80FTY said:

I've played 37 of them. lol. Including St Andrews,

Not to go off track on your model, but I hope you know how fortunate you are.  If you are ever in SW Florida, give a ring, we have over 200 courses within our two local counties including my home course Panther Run.  Lots of water and alligators to keep you entertained like this one on the 4th green. 

To get back on track, hope to see more pics on your model as you progress.
Allan

 

4thgreenPantherRunGC.thumb.JPG.c5b3c5df1b44a2ed2cf9ae8f6afb0fa8.JPG

Edited by allanyed

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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  Since your building the Victory, 'though I'd post the image below.  I've seen versions done with just the first sections of mast - a step beyond an admiralty model with stubs - and there is a suspended build of another ship I'll probably finish that way ... 

 

image.png.e28535bd8da93136f02ec972c4589432.png

Completed builds:  Khufu Solar Barge - 1:72 Woody Joe

Current project(s): Gorch Fock restoration 1:100, Billing Wasa (bust) - 1:100 Billings, Great Harry (bust) 1:88 ex. Sergal 1:65

 

 

 

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So After another productive day, Here is the model after filling it with model lite filler and giving it a 320 grit sanding.

Also if you look at the Port side 2nd top gun port it is 1.3mm or 3/64" taller than the rest which are 8.9mm-9.2mm or 11/32"-23/64" square. So I will fix this with 0.4mm or 1/64" lime as I have this available.

 

Question. Should i give it a 800 grit sand or should this be ok as it is,

 

Port After Filling And 320 Grit Sanding.jpg

Starboard After Filling And 320 Grit Sanding.jpg

Starboard length View After Filling And 320 Grit Sanding.jpg

Hull After Filling And 320 Grit Sanding.jpg

Edited by N80FTY
Gun port mistake noticed
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I would, but in all honesty I doubt it's needed for a first planking.  Looks great.

Simon.

 

Current build HM Cutter Trial - Vanguard Models

 

Previous: Saucy Jack - Vanguard Models Polaris - OcCre

 

In the stash:

 

HMS Speedy v2023 - Vanguard Models

Nisha - Vanguard Models

HM Gun Brig Adder - Vanguard Models

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5 hours ago, BrochBoating said:

I would, but in all honesty I doubt it's needed for a first planking.  Looks great.

This model only has this 2mm hull, so this is basically it. The hull will get copper tiles or if I cant get them ill use copper tape and simulate the tiles. I've seen the copper tape looks ok from pictures.

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2 minutes ago, N80FTY said:

This model only has this 2mm hull, so this is basically it. The hull will get copper tiles or if I cant get them ill use copper tape and simulate the tiles. I've seen the copper tape looks ok from pictures.

 

Ok in that case I definitely would. But I'd consider the final look/finish you're going to use and maybe  do some tests with wood samples at different grits to see how they come up. High grit could end up lovely but could also be too 'new' if you see what I mean.

Simon.

 

Current build HM Cutter Trial - Vanguard Models

 

Previous: Saucy Jack - Vanguard Models Polaris - OcCre

 

In the stash:

 

HMS Speedy v2023 - Vanguard Models

Nisha - Vanguard Models

HM Gun Brig Adder - Vanguard Models

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1 minute ago, BrochBoating said:

 

Ok in that case I definitely would. But I'd consider the final look/finish you're going to use and maybe  do some tests with wood samples at different grits to see how they come up. High grit could end up lovely but could also be too 'new' if you see what I mean.

what do you mean by final look, and is it not supposed to look new once built.

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30 minutes ago, N80FTY said:

what do you mean by final look, and is it not supposed to look new once built.


It’s meant to look how you want it too 😊 so that could be very smooth and glassy or a slightly more worldly appearance from a lower grit. Again if you use any finish after like varnish, shellac or WOP that will effect it too. Experiment on samples (maybe make up a small set of frames so you can see over more than one plank) and see what you think. 

Simon.

 

Current build HM Cutter Trial - Vanguard Models

 

Previous: Saucy Jack - Vanguard Models Polaris - OcCre

 

In the stash:

 

HMS Speedy v2023 - Vanguard Models

Nisha - Vanguard Models

HM Gun Brig Adder - Vanguard Models

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Before i go any further and mess things up, Can anyone tell me if the angle i have is ok. If not i can take the glue of now and reposition.

 

I have it at 15 degrees of vertical at the moment. but i have seen some further back and some nearly vertical. Angle.thumb.jpg.f5e33f8be571f6a745ab356c26619c94.jpg

Gallery.jpg

Gallery Sides Dry Fitted.jpg

Edited by N80FTY
Added extra picture, dry fit gallery sides for a better view
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Posted (edited)

Victory is looking good!
 

John McKay’s “The 100-Gun Ship Victory” of the Anatomy of the Ship series has been an invaluable reference to me in my Victory build.  
 

It has complete plans of the Victory.

 

Copper tape works very well for me.

 

They sell it for electricians cheaper than they do for modelers.

 

I use that tape and a pounce wheel when I copper hulls.

 

The pounce wheel is to make rivets.

Edited by GrandpaPhil

Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)
 

On the building slip: 1:72 French Ironclad Magenta (original shipyard plans)

 

On hold: 1:98 Mantua HMS Victory (kit bash), 1:96 Shipyard HMS Mercury

 

Favorite finished builds:  1:60 Sampang Good Fortune (Amati plans), 1:200 Orel Ironclad Solferino, 1:72 Schooner Hannah (Hahn plans), 1:72 Privateer Prince de Neufchatel (Chapelle plans), Model Shipways Sultana, Heller La Reale, Encore USS Olympia

 

Goal: Become better than I was yesterday

 

"The hardest part is deciding to try." - me

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This  kit  was  my very  first  build  I attempted  in the  shape  of  the   monthly  part  works,  I   had  a  build  log  in  here  in the  pre   version  of  our site  before  the big  collapse,  think  I was  on it  for  about  a  year.

Nice  work  so far.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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1 hour ago, Old Collingwood said:

This  kit  was  my very  first  build  I attempted  in the  shape  of  the   monthly  part  works,  I   had  a  build  log  in  here  in the  pre   version  of  our site  before  the big  collapse,  think  I was  on it  for  about  a  year.

Nice  work  so far.

 

OC.

I've been on and off it for 8 months. This is all I've done so far. I need to really get the cannons, boats, anchors and so on done as well. But I want to do them as and when I get to a stage they are actually needed and get put in place permanently as I will end up losing them or damaging them. 

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So, i have redone the middle wales after a troublesome weekend. There is a discrepancy of 0.3mm at the gallery end. I've added pictures to show this. 

My question here is do I just lower the starboard wale at the gallery to match, will this be noticeable or leave it as it is.

 

 

20240111_132849.jpg

20240111_133126.jpg

20240111_133358.jpg

Port.jpg

Starboard.jpg

20240111_133719.jpg

20240111_133746.jpg

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52 minutes ago, N80FTY said:

So, i have redone the middle wales after a troublesome weekend. There is a discrepancy of 0.3mm at the gallery end. I've added pictures to show this. 

My question here is do I just lower the starboard wale at the gallery to match, will this be noticeable or leave it as it is.

 

 

20240111_132849.jpg

20240111_133126.jpg

20240111_133358.jpg

Port.jpg

Starboard.jpg

20240111_133719.jpg

20240111_133746.jpg

So after checking where the wale covers the last gunport, it looks like this is where the issue was. The internal overlap is now corrected and both have the same measurement. However there is still an issue. its got absaloutly nothing to do with the model. its the point of where im measuring from. Which i never thought about checking as its a 1" industrial work bench. i dont know if you can see it in the picture clearly so i got a straigt edge. What a numpty, (Scottish for idiot) So when rotating the model end to end this dip in the centre was projecting on the model. Not to worry too much though as i use my small portable table for measuring usually. Which is how i just found this issue.

 

So outcome is simple. Dont forget to check your workstation is level, plum and dip/bow free. 

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20240111_142401.jpg

 

20240111_143441.jpg

Edited by N80FTY
picture change showing error
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Hi N80fty

Hard to tell from the photos but the wales look to be a bit too thick.  They should stand out above the thickstuff above and below the main wales only about 2 inches (0.02" -  .6mm)  and about 1.5" for the middle wales.  They taper in thickness at the bow to pretty much match the thickness of the strakes of thickstuff above and below the wales so they can seat in the rabbet.  The below is a cross section of Boyne, a 98 gun ship circa 1810, but looking at scantlings in Steel, 1805, they match up with a 110 gun first rate as well.  Nothing some sanding can't fix if you are so inclined.

Allan

Walesthicknessfirstrate.JPG.7a12088a52b46eff21680b24695199f0.JPG

Edited by allanyed

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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24 minutes ago, allanyed said:

Hi N80fty

Hard to tell from the photos but the wales look to be a bit too thick.  They should stand out above the thickstuff above and below the main wales only about 2 inches (0.02" -  .6mm)  and about 1.5" for the middle wales.  They taper in thickness at the bow to pretty much match the thickness of the strakes of thickstuff above and below the wales so they can seat in the rabbet.  The below is a cross section of Boyne, a 98 gun ship circa 1810, but looking at scantlings in Steel, 1805, they match up with a 110 gun first rate as well.  Nothing some sanding can't fix if you are so inclined.

Allan

Walesthicknessfirstrate.JPG.7a12088a52b46eff21680b24695199f0.JPG

Hi Allan,

 

The wales that came with this are 5x1mm for centre and top wales. The Bottom wales are 3x1mm for trim and 5x2mm for the wale.

Not as clear as i thought but you can see the 1mm on the middle wale. Also once i sand it smooth it will educe the thickness slightly

 

20240111_151048.jpg

20240111_151125.jpg

Edited by N80FTY
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6 hours ago, N80FTY said:

The Bottom wales are 3x1mm for trim and 5x2mm for the wale.

Hi

What do you mean by trim?  The wales are as shown on the drawing above. You can see the relative thickness of the wales and the thick stuff above and below the wales.   Thick stuff is what they actually called the planks next to the wales on contracts and scantlings from Steel's Elements and Practice of Naval Architecture and The Shipbuilder's Repository 1788.    In reality they were top and butt or anchor stock not straight strakes of planking but that is for another day.

As to the size of the materials they supplied I thought that might be the case.  They don't seem to do any research on these kinds of details so the material they provide is way out of scale.  If you are looking for a realistic look, this is nothing some sanding can't fix, especially at the bow where they reduce so they are the same thickness as the rest of the planking as they reach the rabbet.

 

The below is from a contract for a 74, so the thickness is less than would have been on Victory, the scantlings for which are given above. Still, it gives an idea on how this worked.

 

THICKSTUFF under      To have 6 Strakes of Thick stuff under the Main Wales: the Upper Edge of the Upper strake to be of 6¾ inches in Thickness

the MAIN WALES         lower edge  of the 3rd to be 5 inches & the lower   edge of the sixth Strake to be 4  inches in Thickness.   

 

THICKSTUFF on           To have One Strake upon the Main Wales of 6¾ inches in Thickness and 1 foot 1 ½ inches broad, the lower edge of the Strake             upon MAIN WALES     to be 5 ¾ inches thickness & to wear off to 4 inches thick at the Channel Wales.

 

Allan

Edited by allanyed

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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