mikiek

Well if it were horizontal would there be room for a square sail? I can't really see but is it fastened to the mast in the middle of the yard or closer to an end? My first thought is just a yard being stowed. They did that a lot. Often they would lower the yard to the deck but just as often leave it stowed like that in case it's needed quickly. There's a term for that but I don't recall what it is.

I would seriously consider them. Mainly for the consistency. I can make pretty good hooks. Sometimes even hooks as small as you will need to stay in scale. But 200 identical hooks? Not a chance. Of course there are people here that can make their own. Usually on larger scale builds. At 1:64 a lifelike hook is pretty small. I used 3mm for the guns. The first time I ordered them Chuck had the brass ones but also some made out of what seemed like plastic. The plastic ones were awesome - a little bit of relief gave them more of a 3D look and they were black so no painting required. He lost that manufacturer and apparently nobody wants to make them as the plastic gives off noxious fumes during the etching process. The brass ones are OK but not like the others. And I agree with Jim, they will need some manipulating. I didn't find threading them too bad but hooking them into rings and eyebolts proved difficult sometimes. Two things that I ended up doing 1. Spreading the hook open a little extra. Of course you'll probably tear a few doing that. 2. Use rings on all your eyebolts, both on the carriages and the bulwark. Trying to hook into that smaller size eyebolt will drive you mad. If I recall I ended up ordering rings that were the next size up from those tiny ones that come with the kit. And rings are typically used with eyebolts in the real world. One other thing I'll just put out there (and watch out for Syren fever) the Syren blocks look a heck of a lot better than the MS blocks. Same story with Syren's ropes. I'm bringing that up here because you probably want to go one way or the other and not mix them. You're about to the point where you will begin rigging (yes making all those tackles is rigging) and you will need rope & blocks to make them. So there's a few more decisions on your plate. I went with all Syren ropes and blocks. Hearts & deadeyes too. I have no regrets with those decisions. If you are not familiar with Chuck's products, check around. A lot of people use them, particularly the rope. And I have absolutely no affiliation with Syren or Chuck. They're just dang good products that will add to the look of your boat.

Thank you Zoran - patience is a virtue I have very little of. A bad thing for a model ship builder. Don is good at spreading his patience around. The lesson learned here was not so much about bending sticks. It was about slowing down. Every task is different. Even the same task on a different build.

How long does it take to "soak" the wood?

Tom - the barrels from my kit were Brittiania (similar to pewter) but they look a little different from yours. There is a pewter blackening liquid if you're interested. The thing I have found with blackening is the stuff will come off as you handle the barrels. Once mounted to the carriages the only way to touch them up (and you will have to) is with paint. So why not paint them from the start. If you do blacken, a covering coat of matte lacquer will help protect the black. If diversions are what you need, you should start thinking about the gun tackles. There are several ways to do those, so that's a decision you'll have to make. Also, depending on your ambition there will be either 4 or 5 tackles per gun. Times 20 and you have a lot of tackles to make. Plus 6 bulwark eyebolts with rings per gun. I ended up making a gun station out of some scrap, with a gunport and eyebolts (there's pix in my log). This came in handy both for testing how to make the tackles and also when it came time to start making them. Oh, and don't forget the hooks for the tackles. Do the math, 20 guns x 4 tackles per gun x 2 hooks per tackle. You can make them but at that scale they're pretty small and it's difficult to make them consistent. Hooks were one of many things I picked up from Syren Models. Many things to think about if you are wanting to avoid the big tasks. I laugh when I say that - the guns took longer than any other task. I believe from start to finish it was over 2 months. But they will put a smile on your face when they're done and on deck.

Don - looking at my last pix I see a lot of glue between planks on the inner hull. Normally this would not matter but since the area is exposed I think I should try to clean that up some. My concern is in sanding it off I will mess up the stain. Of course I can always reapply but it's so dark already I think another coat would turn it almost black. Beyond that the next task is building the doors for the cargo openings. I also need to get back to my filler project. The hull is going to need some in a few places. I've been working on trying to dye the filler so that it won't spot when I stain the hull. After a lot of effort I did actually find some Minwax walnut colored filler. Sadly it has the same problem I have been running into with my own mixtures. It looks great when it's wet, almost a perfect match to the wood. But it lightens up considerably after it dries. So I am having to start out with a much darker mixture but that's a lot of trial and error and I doubt if I could reproduce it a second time. If I'm not mistaken after that it's time to plank the deck.

I could not have said it better Doug. So many times I have been frustrated and ready to turn a boat into a wingless airplane. Cooler heads have "talked me down"

Thank you Don - both for the affirmation and the attitude adjustment. I saw those frames in the instructions and figured 10 minutes tops. Four days later...... Hey, on a slightly different note, how much steam does that curling thing put out? I ask because I was pretty disappointed with the hand held thing I bought. Although I have nothing to gauge it by. I was expecting after 20-30 seconds of steaming a stick would almost be melting in my hand. Turns out they're barely even warm. And it is supposed to be Amazon's #1 seller. Debating whether to send it back. BTW I did not use it today.

Easy build, huh?

You make me want to pull my lathe down off the shelf. The one with very little sawdust on it. Your tutorial makes me think even I might be able to do that exercise. What a nice addition to the build!

No apologies needed in this thread. I left my ego at the door. ALL suggestions and comments (positive and negative) are welcome here. The idea is we are all helping each other right? And it's obvious I need some help. IMHO Straight, honest responses will produce better results and further ones skills. It sounds like the gist of both Zoran's and Don's post is I am in too big of a hurry. I was trying to do the whole operation in one pass and it's just too much of a bend to be doing so. So the saw will stay on the shelf for another day. I will spend today SLOWLY working the 3x3's and see what I can come up with. Thank you Zoran and Don. Both of your opinions and comments mean a lot to me. Please keep them coming!

I won't argue with you on the port holes

I assumed Zoran was referring to the bending tool that looks like pliers. They put a crimp in one side of the stick and you bend in that direction. I have never heard much good about this tool but I thought I would give it a try. $30 later it's out in the shop and problem almost right away. Like I said the side that gets crimped should be the inside of the bend. Unfortunately, for this application it needs to be the outside of the bend. I need the smooth side to be the inside. I went ahead and tried bending like I needed and the stick broke at 4 of the 6 crimps I made. I can see this tools future will be short lived. Per Don's suggestion I tried bending thinner sticks with the idea of laminating several thin bent sticks together. Not pretty Creases and cracks all over. Was almost going to go with it anyway. Had all 5 glued down, then the little voice says ARE YOU NUTS? So I have exhausted the easy methods - heat benders, steam, overnight soakings, other benders. Due diligence? I would say so. Tomorrow it's the nuclear option. I'm bringing out the scroll saw and cutting frame pieces. I still have the one frame piece that is removed after planking so that can be my template. Will use walnut sheets. Got a lot of sanding to do as well - need to get all the glue off the hull. Note to Marisstella - these really should have been laser cut parts.

Yup - got me too. However I decided to live with it. All the transom planks as well as the rail have a slight slope up to the middle and back down again. I really like the look, especially on the hand rail. Fortunately that whole transom structure is easy to fabricate if you have to. Voice of experience.

Doug - re: gunport rope, it usually runs through a hole right above the ports and into the gundeck area. The rope would then be reaved thru some blocks hanging from the beams to make it easier to get the lid up. If you want I can snap a few pix from the plans of the gundeck section build I did. At that scale you may or may not want to go to the trouble. The section build was 1:24 so it was easy enough to rig it up. It actually works too.

The beech looks quite good Don. Nice straight grain, not too heavy. Good color. It's a winner. Never heard of a veneer saw before. How come you have to take the filler out?

I guess I will have to differ with Steve on this one. For me CA is the worst, I've had times where it took 4-5 minutes for it to dry. Wood glue is a little better. If at all possible scuff up the stained glue site with some sand paper first. Most glues want to get down into the wood fiber. Anything sealing that up is problematic. A quick sanding can bring up a little of the fiber.

No laser cut rails?

It's gorgeous dude. You have the best luck when it comes to staining. I still remember the finish on Phantom. They both look like real boats - not stained or painted, just used. A little bit of matte varnish on top of this will seal it up nicely.

The Tamiya tape is really good. It's flexible, it cuts easy and the adhesive is good but it doesn't leave spots. Plus they come in plastic dispensers similar to scotch tape. Get yourself a couple of the smaller widths - especially the narrowest - sorry I don't remember the measurement but it's about 1/8". I think I went thru almost 2 rolls of that. The gun and oar ports will use up a lot. For large areas the typical blue masking tape works. As far as your paint,I think you will get a color that is more pleasing to your eye if you mix it. Not sure that you'll save any money. Don't forget the clear paint. After you lay your masking tape you should paint a band of clear over the edge of the tape. When it dries it seals the tape edge so that your colored paint doesn't wick up underneath - which it will try very hard to do. The Niagara colors contrast a lot. A bit of yellow or red on your black, green on the red. Even a tiny spot is going to be very obvious. If you do go with the kit spars make sure they are straight. Dowels have a tendency to warp. They appear to be straight grained but most are not. Your option there would be to get square sticks of various sizes and shape them yourself. It's more work but with something like boxwood, you'll know in 5-10 years your masts won't be drooping over to one side. I'm working on a sectional kit with some seniors and right out of the box dowel that is the main spar doesn't even roll.

Did I mention get lots of masking tape? You should also consider sticking with the brand/type of paint you are already using. Especially since you seem happy with it. By type I mean acrylic, enamel or some other oil based paint. It's best to make a choice and stay with it. I would suggest mixing a color. I used Buff as the base. You can color that with yellow (use up some of what you already have), brown and lighten with white if needed. Dijon Brown I called mine. It really is the color of the mustard. Mix with an eye dropper and/or measuring spoons keeping count and taking notes so that you can make more if needed. You do realize of course, as soon as you switch the yellows and get it painted, the red is going to almost glow in the dark. So start planning what color you will be repainting that Be looking for some clear paint as well. You will use this to seal up the edges of the masking tape so paint doesn't wick under. I did mention you will need masking tape didn't I? Looking at your bow to stern pic made me think of something. Your mast steps. I'll suggest you get the mast feet prepared and tested out before you plank your deck. You will have limited access to the braces after that. Are you planning on making your own spars or using the ones from the kit?

Seems like nothing but setbacks the last day or two. I've been working on the cargo entry area but it just ain't working. Since this area is open down to the hull, you are supposed to put some faux frames in. This makes good sense however the frames are supposed to be 3mmx3mm sticks and they are supposed to be bent to fit the curvature of the hull. On the good side the frames are 2 pieces - one comes out from the keel about 2/3 of the way to the wale. The second piece starts under the wale and runs about 2/3 of the way toward the keel. I was able to get the bottom pieces in although I couldn't really bend them enough to fit flush on the hull. But given that part of the piece is under the flooring I just rocked them a bit so the exposed part is flush. A little smoke & mirrors. So far I am totally unable to bend the sticks enough to make the second piece of frame. Everything I have tried, the stick eventually breaks. I've tried soaking the sticks (even overnight) then using the soldering iron bending attachment. I ended up breaking the iron trying to apply enough pressure to bend the stick. I bought a hand steamer, that works no better. I even tried using some thinner basswood sticks and they are breaking too. So I'm stumped right now. Another downer, I couldn't resist staining that same area sort of as a test before I do the outside. The stain "Special Walnut" didn't look bad on a single stick but IMO it's WAY too dark applied to a larger area. In the pix you can see some bare walnut floor planks above the stained walnut hull. I guess walnut stain on walnut wood is not a good combination, although I suppose it would look OK on furniture. Speaking of floor planks, the plans are quite confusing. The floor outer edge is supposed to end with a "bilge keelson" - never heard of that one - that runs cockeyed from the rest of the floor planks. I don't see what purpose this would serve and it doesn't sit right on the hull. I will probably just run floor planks out parellel instead. So I think Trajta is going to get another rest while I figure out what to do.

Ditto that Steve - did I understand correctly, you filed those notches?

Hello Don - I look at the weather like this - it's 2 days I didn't have to drive 130 mile round trips to the office I was about to PM you & Zoran about that floor. The plans call for 2 strips for a bilge keelson (part #32) at the starboard and port ends of the floor, one to a side. The floor sits on supports glued to the bulkheads. It looks like these 2 strips have one long edge glued to the outside edge of the floor and the other edge either to the hull or the faux frames (I can't tell which). I'm guessing on the frames. What's really odd is I would kinda expect the strip edge to run parallel with the floor planks. But a top down view in the plans shows them at quite an angle to the planks - the last plank and a strip making sort of a V. THis makes me wonder if the strips are really contacting the floor planks or are maybe under the planks. If the strips do contact the planks then there would probably need to be a triangular shaped plank (almost like a stealer) to fill in the gap. I"m also stumped on the faux frame pieces. 3mmx3mm walnut sticks that need to be bent to the curvature of the hull. I use the soak & heat bend method but they are not bending enough. I've already broken the sticks twice.