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mikiek

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Everything posted by mikiek

  1. mikiek
    Well I have a start on Constructo Enterprise but I expect the same rigging issues there. I am also building a PanArt Gunnery Station Cross Section (no rigging required). But for a serious build I have 2 kits that have the lateen sails. The triangular fore to aft type. The rigging is very simple - Amati Galley Arrow or Occre Cazador. Both are interesting departures from the square rigged builds. Ya know some times I feel like I'm wimping out by not rigging Niagara. Other times I really like the look with no strings on it. I've been trying to figure out how to turn it into the Admiralty style look.
  2. mikiek
    Don't blame you regarding the rigging Brian. I'm probably going to do the same thing.
  3. mikiek
    It's funny how shapes and angles can distort things. Looking at the second pic, I was trying to think of a way to tell you the transom was off kilter . Then I looked at the first pic again .
  4. mikiek
    There's a lot of interesting (and not so interesting ) reads on the TAMU site.
  5. mikiek
    Hey Darrell - re: sewing up the lanyards - did you find that your deadeyes ended up fairly horizontal to each other? Curious if you had to tighten some & loosen others to get them to line up. I'm not at that point, but I can already see that some of the upper deadeyes will not be all be on the same plane without some trickery.
  6. mikiek
    Your color scheme is gorgeous - the copper with that darkened wood. This guy is going to display so well. Do you know where you will put it?
  7. mikiek
    Those bow spars are your best work to date Darrell. Looks great! Your vise and clamp for a third hand is a great idea. Very stable. I have one of those things with 2 alligator clips that can bend all over the place and it never stays put. Plus you can't stick it right in the middle of things.
  8. mikiek
    Thank you Darrell. I like the idea of the vise and clamps extending all the way to the boat. That's one thing my workbench is lacking. I have just a small area where I can securely clamp my vise and it's way down at the end. Actually on the far side of the new storage modules. I need to see what I can do to get the vise back on the playing field.
  9. mikiek
    Always a scary thing - cutting holes in your boat. Would not have thought to use an end mill with a hand tool. Of course at the stage you are at, what else are you going to do? I'll have to try that.
  10. mikiek
    Either that or too much wasted material. Somewhere I did see a tutorial on making an eyesplice (modeling sized) The guy unraveled the last 2" of a piece of rope (3 stranded) and then proceeded to thread a needle with a strand and run the needle back thru the rope to make the loop. He did that with each strand. The result was very nice, and I believe almost like a real eyesplice, but I would like to finish my build in the next year or so. He also cut off the strands after they came thru the rope so for a 1/16 eyesplice you throw away 2" of rope. For my pendants, I did use the same styrene tubing I used for the bullseyes - it's in one of my pix. It's probably a little oversized but I'll live with it.
  11. mikiek
    At least as good as you are going to get at 1:64 . Have you seen how they do a real eye splice? Not even going there.
  12. mikiek
    OK - that makes things look a little easier! Was trying to picture myself doing that and it seemed a bit awkward. I'll reverse your images from now on
  13. mikiek
    That's what I had in mind. Nice pendants. Did you seize a thimble or bullseye or just do an eyesplice?
  14. mikiek
    If you don't mind, I would appreciate a pic when you get a chance. For the second seizing, do you just pull the deadeye further out from the black clamp?
  15. mikiek
    From what I have read, real shrouds would be strung on alternating sides. For our models it probably doesn't matter structurally but I suspect visually it does. All the starboard shrouds looped around the mast head then all the port loops on top of that might look odd.
  16. mikiek
    Good advice Darrell. At the moment nothing is permanent. It's a good thing too. After doing the last shroud on the starboard main channel, I got one of those sick in your stomach moments when I remembered I should be alternating starboard - port. But given that I can still take it all off, I don't think it matters
  17. mikiek
    That's exciting Darrell What are the 2 tools (clamps) in your pix?
  18. mikiek
    Thank you gentlemen. Like I said, it may or may not be what you want. It was somewhat time consuming, but for me it was a good option. Another thing to put in your bag of tricks.
  19. mikiek
    First off make sure you're sitting down You know it's funny how something that works for me may suck for you. Materials, techniques, whatever. I realized that I was putting off rigging because I had no idea how I was going to hold multiple ropes, thread on a block or deadeye, tie a knot all at the same time. Especially with these fat fingers. And I thought I had a reasonable amount of dexterity. I've been thru tutorials, build logs and the like but never found something that seemed right for me. I finally came across Ed Tosti's Victory build and the lightbulb went off when I saw his rigging chapter. At least for some of the standing rigging. I'm going to repeat some of it here as I am sure to lose the link. So I started out with scrap of sheet 1/32 thick. This is basswood and it began to crack after use. Next channel I will either go to 1/16 or use boxwood. Drill some holes right at the bottom. Stick some wire thru those to help fasten the piece to the channel Draw a line parallel to the channel. Looks crooked I know but actually it's the scrap. It's not a rectangle. Wrap some rope around the mast head, take the other end and hold it on a deadeye in the channel. Mark where the rope crosses the line on the scrap. This is where the upper deadeyes will go. Drill a couple of holes at each intersection Stick some wire in the holes similar to earlier. Slide a deadeye on the wire. Life just got a lot easier. Take the rope to be used for your shrouds. Serve the middle 2 1/2 - 3 inches (the first shroud is completely served and one end is a Burton Pendant). Loop the middle around the mast head - this assumes you have not glued all the mast spars yet. Leaving an adequate sized loop, lash the rope. Hang rope around the mast head. Tighten one end and wrap around the next deadeye. Remove the rope from the mast. Use alligator clips to keep the loop There are any number of ways to seize the deadeye and the rope end. I used my serving machine. After all, the seizing is just serving 2 pieces of rope instead of 1. Here's a few back on the mast. And OMG he has some rigging!
  20. mikiek
    Thank you Elijah. Good to hear from you.
  21. mikiek
    SShhh - don't tell the Admiral - kit(s). Trajta and the Ragusian Cog. The response time to my emails was impressive. Two to three hours max, any time of day. I also didn't know they had a Canadian distributor.
  22. mikiek
    Looking great Don. Zoran must thank you - because of your log I picked up a Maristella kit today.
  23. mikiek
    Beautiful work Bob. Looks smooth as can be.
  24. mikiek
    I hear ya Bob. But I can usually find a machine or at least a tool for sanding.
  25. mikiek
    I concur, planking this guy is a real bear. Good thing there's not many

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