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mikiek

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Everything posted by mikiek

  1. mikiek
    BTW - is that the same height as the pewter one?
  2. mikiek
    Thanks jdbondy - I tried some 3/0 for seizing. Perhaps I bought the wrong type of line as it very easily unraveled and proved difficult to use. Maybe there's a trick to it that I don't know.
  3. mikiek
    Stack looks great!
  4. mikiek
    Julie - in my log post 244 I preach about the use of proportional dividers. They were very helpful in determining the width of each individual plank strake. With the plank bands that you have drawn out you could determine the exact width of the next strake - even if the width varies (wider and thinner) in the same strake. You set the marker for the number of planks left in the band. Using the big end measure the remaining width of the band at known perpendicular intervals. The small end will tell you the strake width at those intervals. So after each measurement you mark your strake edge with the width of that small end measurement. Not as confusing as I have made it sound. It will make your plank shaping more accurate.
  5. mikiek
    Sounds like you better get back to building
  6. mikiek
    Or you could just cut the cone off the kit part.
  7. mikiek
    Well this wanna be lathe master researched a bit and the proper term in the turning world would be a taper. Different techniques produce different angles. You can offset the headstock or tailstock which will put the piece at an offset. Or you can use a compound slide which puts the cutting tool at an offset. Of course then there is the taper attachment. If I only knew what all that meant Seriously, the compound slide sounds like the way to go. I imagine Darrell will come up with something.
  8. mikiek
    I hear ya. I don't do any of those sites where you 'like' stuff so I rarely think to do it here.
  9. mikiek
    What a great idea on the wood! Or my favorite - styrene. I tried stamping some thin brass sheet, but I could never get the edges trimmed well enough. I do think you're on to something using an alternate material. Wondering if you turned some wood, would the process be similar to what I described or would you just put a file on the end of the piece and do it by hand?
  10. mikiek
    Knowing nothing about turning, but I was thinking something like this. I have a brass rod that is the diameter of the base of the cone. Cut off a piece and mount in a lathe chuck. Mount a cutting edge above and about 1/8" in from the right. Begin to cut at that point, moving the tool to the right and into the rod. So, a tweak to the right, a tweak downwards, repeat. It might take a few cycles but it seems like you would end up with something conical. Maybe some filing to smooth it out. Since the cone would be mounted with the point facing upwards, you probably would not need to bore out the underside. For full disclosure - I have no idea what I'm doing with a lathe. Do not try this at home
  11. mikiek
    Brian - My apologies for calling you Scott. He's another Niagara builder.
  12. mikiek
    I agree with you Bob. I've found with CA for the 'nails' and PVA down the edges there's virtually no waiting.
  13. mikiek
    Just go rub them in the mud for a little while
  14. mikiek
    Didn't even notice the spile, but it makes sense that you would have to. No matter which way the planks run, the slightest bow in an edge gets huge a few inches away.
  15. mikiek
    You are screaming along there Bob. Man, those deck planks look great for basswood.
  16. mikiek
    E.J. , Dave - I don't want to hijiack Elijah's thread but I have decided that after my current build I will be making eyebolts and hooks. Sounds like a good activity for when you're bored and have a little time on your hands. Have either you made any posts on how to? Particularly hooks?
  17. mikiek
    Hey Darrell - Have you given any thought to how you are going to do the galley stack? That brittania piece leaves a lot to be desired. I can do the suggested pipe with the flat support pieces but I've no idea how to come up with a cone shaped top.
  18. mikiek
    Not sure if they were painted on purpose but given that a lot of deadeyes, blocks, etc. were in contact with tarred rope you can bet they were not squeaky clean.
  19. mikiek
    Wow Don - what a cool idea for scuppers! That bulwark area adds a lot to the overall appearance. So - I can blame someone else for 4 builds at one time?
  20. mikiek
    I'm being slow I guess. How can a hole be drilled with the bit in reverse?
  21. mikiek
    I didn't go for the eggshell on the yawl (finished months ago) probably just because I didn't know any better. The instructions said thin but that is relative. I'm sure not going to kill myself sanding until I can see light coming thru. Not sure what I have achieved with that. If the boat is seen from only one angle - for instance it's upside down on the main hatch grating - what's the point? For that matter why even finish out the inside at all? Hanging off the davits might be a different story. I think even if thinness was the goal it would probably be easier to get the exterior the shape you want, plank it and then Dremel out the inside as much as you want. I remember trying (with the little knowledge I had) to find some way to get frame looking pieces for the interior. Nothing would bend as much as needed - the angle at the keel was too sharp. Carving frame pieces seemed like the only solution and I elected not to go there. That ended up being my introduction to styrene.
  22. mikiek
    Interesting idea ca
  23. mikiek
    Just started reading about ships boats in Lavery's A & F last nite but fell asleep. I'll check Harland too. Those 2 books are such a wealth of information. I'll take a look and maybe go the route you describe on the quarter davits. I don't like those curved things.
  24. mikiek
    Your boat just got almost twice as long. I'm dreading that. My workbench has room side to side but not near enough front to back I didn't realize all those bullseyes were needed at the bow. One question for you - I can't see this in your pix. Did the bowsprit fit into the opening between the port and starboard bulwarks? I had to take a couple of cleats off for mine to pass thru. Wondering if I need to open that space up a little. I envy your woodworking skills. I've had a couple of problems I know could be resolved with a machined part but I have no idea how to do it. I'm also curious about your reasoning for doing the bowsprit first. Not that there is a right or wrong way - just wondering.
  25. mikiek
    Binnacle is now a permanent fixture and davit bolts a la jbshan Next up, the bitts and fife rails.

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