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Julie Mo

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Everything posted by Julie Mo

  1. I was measuring the roof of the raised cabin when I gave those dimensions. My bad. Here's a 1/35 scale of the Spirit 130 interior, based loosely on their drawings: The first level belowdecks is 6 steps down then there's another 6 steps to the lower level. That's where you'd see the oval skylight that's in the first picture. So, yes, it is quite a bit larger than I originally stated. The Spirit drawings have the lower level layout but I haven't drawn that up in CAD... yet. My confidence is recreating the first level cabin will depend on if I do the lower level, too. I could make a career of this build!
  2. My dad had a 1973 Columbia 45. Not the prettiest or fastest thing on the water but solid and comfortable. I knew that boat inside and out. As for winches, Lewmar has these for big boats: Maybe I could find a carbon fibre rod and turn something close. I found this RC Harken hardware on another site but the website that sells them is down. I'd have fun rigging a J Class model with modern racing gear. All this makes me wish we bought the boat instead of the house.
  3. Sigh is an understatement! Memories of sailing completely melt me. I raced for about three years but I'm a cruiser at heart. We used to sail from Chicago to Mackinac Island every year for 8 years. My dad would take the boat one way, I'd take it the other. We took one sail from Lake Worth, FL to the Bahamas and back, and one trip from Ft. Lauderdale down into the Keys. Not once did I want to go back to being landlocked but I always did. As for the wood lathe, do high speed tools work on aluminum and brass or would you need something designed for turning metal?
  4. Before I dive into this, I thought I'd get some feedback, just in case this might lead to buying tools I can't afford. Thoughts are to build the interior as pictured below and allow for the raised deck roof to be removed for easier showing. The total area represents about 4.25" x 5.5". There would be a Nav Station, Galley, cushioned seating, two (maybe three) sets of stairs and all the rest. I've drawn it up to scale (not the one you see below), with dimensions, and will probably create a 3D drawing to make sure it looks proper. What skills would be needed? What tools would be needed for the wood and fabric and cushions? What about all the windows? They would have to be flush on the decks. The majority of tools I have are for life-size projects. I have a Dremel 4000 with the drill press base, flex extension and most of the adapters. For milling wood to dimension I'd have to make up a router table for a Bosch Colt and/or build some setup for a Jet spindle sander. No Byrnes table saw. No milling machines. I do have a variable speed wood lathe but it's a 36". Probably too large? Thanks in advance for any advice and warnings.
  5. Frank, you are like Bernini, start with something that looks nothing like the finished result and end up with a masterpiece! It's like the old saying: Get a block of granite and chip away everything that doesn't look like sailboat. Easy peasy! You do that amazingly well! As a sailor, I appreciate your subjects. I think I have sailing in my blood. After we sold the last house we spent a while looking at live aboard sailboats. We bought another house because it was more "practical" but houses don't get the emotions stirred up like sailing into a harbor at dawn after an overnight journey. It was interesting to see you used a wood lathe to turn winches. Up to this point I was believing only a metal lathe could accomplish that. Thank you for the education.
  6. Spent the day drawing the Spirit 130 deck to the scale of Slàinte (ex-Endeavour). When scaled to length, Spirit has a wider beam. The kit doesn't have enough winches to do this winch layout. Have to figure out where I can buy winches. I'll print out some sheets and see how it fits but we may be onto something. EDIT: I think Endeavour was 136' LOA. Spirit is 130' LOA but the beam is considerably wider, to the point the winches were edging the rails, so it's back to the drawing board.
  7. We'll let the "glamorous" sit at the ends. So I slept on the Spirit deck cabin layout and woke around 3AM finding an Oyster in my thoughts. What was prominent in my mind was how some Oyster yachts have three flat forward facing windows, the port and starboard windows angled back a bit. The angled windows creating a different look than the half oval of the Spirit. Still have to let my 3D mind build the two different models to determine which works best with the hull. Here's an Oyster 118 Not the three flat windows I've seen on smaller Oysters but it gives one an idea of the difference between the two. One thing I would NOT do is the extended roof. Great for cruising on a real boat but not right for Slàinte (yes, I've christened the yacht Slàinte ). Right now I'm still leaning toward the Spirit deck layout. A little time in CAD world and we'll see how it pans out.
  8. OMG, Frank! That's it! It's perfect! Just what I was looking for. Thank you! I was doing searches for Wally and other maxi yachts but Spirit didn't come up. Wally was just too modern. But I think I can work the Spirit topsides into the J-Class Endeavour. I'll just have to figure out how do make it happen. Thank you so much, Frank! Now I've got to get back to the boat yard and get those planes and chisels out.
  9. The brain won't stop until it's happy. If I can be so bold, I admit to hating what the kit provides for the deck cabin. My vision is to have something less boxy, something that has accommodations for guests, something more inviting and maybe a bit more modern. Time to push the envelope without committing any aesthetic crimes. I looked at several photos of the current Endeavour and the deck cabins and surrounding woodwork are all pretty boxy except this: I like the idea of a "safe place" for guests. Lionheart has this: Something like that would work. I like the fact the forward part of the cabin doesn't look as boxy. Boxy is the one part of the J-Class boats I've never liked. So boxy has to go.
  10. Hi Mike - I've been looking at that drawing you have. Maybe this will help. If I'm reading this right, the "fillers" are to show good grained wood in areas that will be exposed later on, like a veneer on plywood. The 3mm beam looks like it wraps an opening. That means the 4mm beam would show 1mm of end grain. Solution is to put in the filler (veneer). To give a full 3D cut away, I put dashed lines in what I'm describing as the 4mm beam. The bottom shows what it would like if they took the 3D drawing to the end. I agree with your assessment of 3 boards. It's built like a doorway opening with the left handed board working like a cripple. The thin board on the right might be some sort of veneer? Does that 3mm board taper to 6mm? The one on top doesn't show it but then as you move right it seems to cover a 6mm beam (board). I'm thinking if it remains 3mm, why not extend the veneer all the way around?
  11. Hi Mike, We all need extra holes in the head. It's what helps our brains cool down when we overheat it with all the things we want to do. Looks like you're off to a good start. I'll be watching.
  12. Never seen anything like that. Such an interesting sailing vessel. Should be fun to watch her come to life!
  13. Welcome back, Ken. Now that your past has been wiped clean, no worries about the paparazzi hounding you.
  14. I spent the last couple of days working on some minor details. Some of the planks at the rail weren't firmly bonded so I fixed those. I also planed down the rough edges at the rail and checked the fit of the plywood deck. But before I could do that work I had to make a working cradle. As the work moved away from midship it became obvious I'll need to add braces closer to the bow and stern. I also decided to make up a laminated piece for the keel. The solid mahogany just doesn't look right, too monolithic and too dark. Lead shot and epoxy are on their way so the deck attachment will have to wait. In the meantime I decided to tackle the deck cabin. These are the parts: Before removing them from the plywood sheet, I lightly sanded the entire sheet with 320 grit Granat sandpaper, being conscious of minimizing loss of thickness. The tolerances weren't what they were with the frame. Kind of disappointed with that. You can see how sloppy the tolerances are in the above picture. There's no way the light sanding took THAT much off. In order to get everything plumb and square, the pieces will be glued together in sections using the base of an engineer's square. The hide glue should be ready now. Time to begin assembly.
  15. Frank, you're kind of like the miracle worker. Beautiful work!
  16. 30°? Something like the lead J boat here? Ah, but then how far off the wall would it be?
  17. The stability factor was another thing I was thinking regarding adding ballast. But I don't even know where it can go once it's completed. Right now I don't think the model will fit on any table we have. Sitting in the makeshift kit stand, the top of the mast is 61.5" (156.5 cm) and we only have 8' ceilings. We will probably have to buy a new house with 10' ceilings now.
  18. This is what I was thinking, Bill. I really don't want to permanently secure the model to a stand. I think I will be wanting to pick it up on occasion. And I think being able to take it off the stand will help in dusting it off. There is no glass enclosure in my crystal ball.
  19. When I pick up the hull of my model it just feels too light. When I imagine it being complete, it would seem correct that anyone picking up the model (like me) would need to feel weight in the keel. I am about to glue on the deck and I am having a hard time proceeding without putting some weight in the keel area. Just something that would add weight in the bilge/keel area. Has anyone ever done this? If so, what did you use and did it meet your expectations?
  20. Here's the damage: There's a little crack that was washed out when I took the picture. It's just above the bitter end of the transom planks that are broken off. So they all had to be removed. When I started removing the top planking, it took some of the sub planking with it. On the transom there was an extra sub planking laid in so I pared it smooth with a chisel and cleaned up the edges. I could have used some mini chisels for this operation. I couldn't get the last two planks to stay so I had to remove them for later installation. They are in place now so I'm waiting for the glue to set.
  21. Thanks guys! Always nice to hear compliments from the pros. That means a lot to me. Sam, yes, I should be able to repair it. I just have to remove the old planking from the transom and replace it. The only hurdle working on the transom is getting some sort of clamping or banding that won't pop off. I don't remember how I did it the first time but I'm sure I'll figure something out.
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