Julie Mo
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Everything posted by Julie Mo
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Good point, Roger. I never even looked at the widths. It seems their only real advantage is being able to get into tight spots. However, if you don't own chisels in those widths this would be an inexpensive way to get them. The same width chisels in their full size versions would run you $234.00 US, as opposed to $39.50 for the mini chisels.
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No one has asked me for my Christmas List yet. The mini tools are the only thing on it. I was taught it's inappropriate to "accidentally" drop your Christmas List. The big day is closing in and my diabolical mind has run out of list dropping ideas.
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Hi Roger, I did think about painting and dark blue would be a great choice but I am going to be putting a decal with the name and hailing port on it. My experience with decals tells me they don't do well against dark backgrounds, even if the text is light in color. -
Thank you! The reviews are better than expected. Now maybe I can make up a Christmas list and someone will see it.
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You'd laugh if you knew how many times I've thought the same thing.
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And I'm thinking I will have to modify the rudder a bit to make a smooth transition... I've also put the offending rasp in timeout. The other rasps have been warned.
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When I purchased L-N modeling and violin planes I thought that was as small as I was going to get in good quality hand tools. I recently received a Lee Valley Christmas catalog and in it I saw they have miniature hand tools. The mini chisels use their high quality PM-V11 steel. Has anyone tried any of these mini tools? If so, what do you think?
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When I see the painstaking process necessary to achieve the level of quality you achieve, Keith, I am in awe at not only your skill and experience but also your patience. I am thinking patience may be the most important trait necessary to create this level of craftsmanship. Simply amazing!
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Unfortunately, the transom will require me to resist the temptation to scrutinize. Acceptance will have to suffice. There are times I work on the model when I should be getting ready to go to bed. Keith, what I have planned for that little section is to glue on a piece of mahogany and shape it to blend. When I was planking the other side, the planking extended over that area. This would have allowed me the opportunity to put in a neat filler across the gap. But one day the rasp in my hand got carried away, leaving me with a different problem. Note to self: Stop experimenting on the model! I'm hoping the fix will work...
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I feel like my hands are tied behind my back. Everything seems so laborious. Maybe I found a way to slow time. Anyway, I did get a few more planks glued down... Depending how the light casts, the transom can appear well defined.
- 562 replies
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I have the water, Bob. And I have the dock too. But now I can't afford the boat!
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I've spent a lot of money on sharpening tools that were supposed to be quick and easy to use. I rarely use any of them. For plane irons and chisels, I use Norton water stones. I picked up a "set" at Jamestown Distributors for about $125. It included (1) 220/1000, (1) 4000/8000 and (1) flattening stone. They can put a mirror finish on plane irons and chisels that are sharp enough to shave hairs. From my experience, I'd say it's technique and patience that will get you that razor sharp edge. While those pricey stones may make your work easier, you can achieve a very good result with less if you take your time and do it right.
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I don't know how you do it, Buck. Amazing! And not once did I see 6' 3" Becky lending you a hand. Tell her to stop powdering her nose and get in there and break a nail or two.
- 515 replies
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- artesania latina
- whaleboat
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All of the planks extend above the rail right now, Mike. When I'm done I will cut them down to where they need to be. I still don't have the deck plywood attached, even though the instructions say to do that. Why thank you, Buck!
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Thanks, DeeDee. I think it will be okay. Bob, you know that even though what you say is true, we will always see it. Maybe a bit o' rum will make everything good again.
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Mike, I'm coming over to your house to play in your boatyard!
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- niagara
- model shipways
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I had considered a darker wood for the transom, Keith, but I am planning on applying a decal with the name and hailing port. I tried to put a decal on dark wood on the head of one the guitars I built but the dark wood overwhelmed it. No matter how light I made the letters, the decal created always came out partly transparent and got lost in the darker wood. There is really only one part that bothers me. Right at the rail, where the transom and hull meet, the planking is somewhat rounded. But once mineral spirits are applied, the rest looks better defined. I'm a bit hesitant to create a sharper edge because I don't know how much wood is left. I probably need to stop fussing over it and just move on. Perfection can paralyze one if taken too far. hof00, thank you for the compliment.
- 562 replies
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Very nice launch, Bob! Can't wait to see more.
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Harry, I must have been reading your mind. It seemed nothing I did could create the definition I hoped for, I think the problem is the lines of the planking hid some of the definition. So I just winged it. I applied some mineral spirits and that did bring out some more definition but I don't think I will be able to get the definition I had hoped for unless I cut in a darker plank to define it. Doubtful...
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I think I got the symmetry thing conquered. It was weird, even though I used the same plank, cut it in the center so the two sides would match, I still had to plane the port side plank so it would match at the center joint. It's going to be a bit precarious on the next two pieces. I see lots of minuscule shaping in my future.
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Nice find, Keith! Especially the top one. That one shows the obvious definition at the transom. Thank you! Of course a painted hull has the advantage of hiding build imperfections with fill compound... I was working on it a little yesterday and trying to figure out how to best define the transom and achieve symmetry. The only thing I can come up with to achieve symmetry is to take a piece of thin cardboard, fold it in half, then cut the shape and unfold it to mark the transom. Eyeballing leaves too much to fail. I have to get this right before proceeding.
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I've got the photo download thing resolved now. Thanks guys for your help. Keith, the transom issue kind of stopped me dead in my tracks because I hadn't considered altering it. Even though I have already made some changes, I wasn't sure making another one was the right way to go until I saw what your Altair build. When I'm at a crossroad, I usually peek at your Endeavour build but this last time I went to Altair. I've looked at many pictures of the actual boat, from the original to the latest refit but the ones I could find didn't show enough to tell if there was some definition at the transom. But I am happy with the changes I made. I'll do some final fairing then finish the starboard planking.
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I didn't see any categories for in progress models. I think the gallery is only for completed models.
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Sam & Keith, It's funny how things work. Right after I made the last post I knew I had to take a better look at what I am working with. I took out a rasp and worked the transom down until I hit the plywood frame. Then I took it a bit farther. I started by flattening the transom then fairing it out to something more defined. The next step was building it back up again. (This is when I really miss having access to my website to post pics) I laid up a row of planks (the ones included for the 1st planking) running bow-to-stern on the newly filed-down transom. Then I glued planks butting up to them, sort of building up the stern end as it flows to the transom. Once the glue cured, I took the rasp to it again. I think where I'm going will work. I just got into my website but haven't been able to get Dreamweaver to connect from my computer. However I did manage to load the images in through GoDaddy. So as I was saying, after taking a rasp to the transom and knocking it down, I glued on some planks to build it back up again. I then took the rasp and faired it out. I still have some work left but I think this will work. The darker areas on the hull are hide glue. The wood soaked up some moisture from the glue and the fibers were still soft when rasping the wood. So I coated the whole thing in hide glue and let it dry. Then I started the fairing again.
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No cardigan for this girl. My Irish blood loves the cold. Don't ask me why I landed in Florida. But you're right about Chicago winters keeping me busy indoors. Back then I had a great workshop to run to and I really miss that. I still haven't managed to figure out how to make this mess work.
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