EJ_L

This is a prime example of why I love MSW. A great community with a wealth of knowledge that the members are willing to share with each other regardless of experience. My wish list on Amazon seems to grow longer with every visit.
 
I have purchased a couple of books already to help better understand ship rigging, "The Art of Rigging" by George Biddlecombe and "The Rigging of Ships: in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast, 1600-1720" by R.C. Anderson which deal specifically with the time period of my build, la Couronne. I have found both books to be useful so far though I will also check out some of the other suggestions that have been posted. I have rarely found one book with everything in it I need and often times information has changed as the years have gone by.
   

Simply beautiful! This will be a ship to display proudly for generations to come. Thank you for the all the nice detailed pictures and steps along the way. Your log is full of great information on the construction and especially the rigging that can be used for many other builds of this period. Excellent work!

Thank you all for the positive feedback.  This build has been a great experience - lots of new stuff to learn.
 
Here are the lifts for the mizzen topsail.  The kit plans are odd here - the lines seem to start at the end of the yard, then travel inward to pendant blocks and down to the deck.  All the other sources route the lifts like the other yard lifts - from a ring bolt at the mast cap, then out to a block on the end of the yard, back in to the pendant, and down.  So I ignored the kit plans.  
 

 
The clewlines are run exactly like the other topsail clewlines - from the yard, down to a clew block at the end of the crossjack yard, back up to another block and is then belayed at the caprail.  The sheet has a stop knot in one end, and runs through the clew block, inward to a pendant block at the mizzen top trestles, and is then also belayed at the caprail.
 

 
The museum plans show the lifts belayed at the mizzen top, but the 1:10 model and Clayton's model show the lifts belayed at the caprails.  I took the lines down to the caprail, mostly for some consistency with the other topsail yards.  The only difference is that the fore and main mast have bitt rails where you can belay the lines, and there isn't one for the mizzen.  Here's a photo of the clewline, lift, and sheet lines and where they are belayed.  Depending on how you locate the lift pendants under the mast cap, you might have to run the line in front of the crossjack yard; if you install sails, that may cause you some problems.
 

 

 
Here's an interesting overhead view of the mizzen topmast cap and the profusion of pendants sprouting from it.  One for the mizzen yard lift, two for the topsail lifts, and two leader blocks for the main topgallant braces.
 

 
And an overhead view of the mizzen topsail rigging.
 

 
And finally the mizzen running rigging all in place.
 

 
Now I have to go back and make some minor changes to various parts of the running rigging that I don't like.  Then it looks like the only remaining tasks are rope coils and belaying pins, anchors, and flags.  I've already ordered a plexiglass box for the model, but I need to find a nice wood base for it.  The case is huge - almost four feet long, 1 1/2 feet wide, and almost 3 feet high, so finding a place to display it is going to be challenging.
 
 
 

nice...and thanks for that info.............vc

She's getting farther! I too have some wood from crown timber yard, and I can hardly wait to use it!

I recently realized that the technique I was using to strop a block to an eyebolt was sort of the opposite of the one you refer to, Jan (Dan Vadas' technique of tying an overhand knot around the backside of the block).  Instead, I tie the overhand knot within the eyebolt, then apply glue to the overhand knot. The overhand knot is then hidden between the block and whatever the eyebolt is inserted into, whether that's the deck or a spar. My technique won't work if one is seizing a block directly to a spar, as the overhand knot would then be plainly visible.
 
The only downside is that I am currently using CA to secure that overhand knot within the eyebolt, until I figure out a better adhesive. I like the sound of using art preservationist glue, as mentioned in the blog about CA, and will be doing some testing on that idea.
 
In the meantime, here is a picture:  
 

 
The black line forms an overhand knot within the eyebolt. Since this was a practice run, I was using red fly-tying line to tie the seizing.
 
JD

More work has been taking place in the shipyard and la Couronne is getting her 2nd planking. I am using mahogany for the majority of the planking. The wales and some of the trim is walnut and the white sections at the gun ports are maple. I am trying to have minimal paint and so I want the wood's natural colors to do the job. There is an exception to this as I am using a dyed blue boxwood for parts on the upper hull. I like the look of the blue dye over paint in this case and as it is a small area I think it will look good. Might have some of that on in the next update.
 
I've stated mid ship installing the wales and working upward. I wanted to work on the "easier" part first before tackling the lower hull. I also needed to have good starting points and I've seen from other build logs and planking instructions that starting this way seems to be the most common route for planking. In the past I have tended to just do things my way and hope for the best. Although I am proud of my work, I have discovered a deep desire after viewing many remarkable builds on here to push myself harder to make a better ship. This has involved changing a lot my methods and habits and so far I am very glad I did.
 
I have also discovered that the kit did not come with nearly enough mahogany to plank this ship. Luckily Jason at Crown Timberyard has come through for me and found what I was needing. They say that a bad review will travel faster than a good one and so I am trying to change that. This was the second time I have ordered from Jason and I have been very pleased with the service each time. The wood is excellent quality, and his service, response and shipping is very good as well. This was even more noticeable this time as it was a custom order and not "off the shelf." He wen out of his way to find the lumber to match what I needed. I will use him for all my wood needs for ship building and highly recommend anyone not familiar with Crown Timberyard to check it out if you are needing wood for your build.
 
And now enjoy the pictures!
 

I have been interested in building either this kit or one similar. I have seen lots of finished ones but I have not seen one being built. I look forward to seeing yours come together. I like the idea of working on this to take a break from your bigger build. Sometimes a break from lots of small tedious pieces is a good thing.

Assembled the 3 main frames

 
Drilled 2mm holes in the 2 joints on each of the 3 frames

 
Glued in 2mm dowel to strengthen the joints, and cut off, these will be sanded flat once the glue has dried

 

Mark, some further thoughts below. I have been an avid follower of your beautiful work. 
 
Frank, also some thoughts below -I was thinking of your superb work with sails
 
Thanks Mates for your encouraging words.
 
-------------------------------------------
 
Ouch – here I go again; only looking at “what I want to see”
 
Turns out that the just installed four shrouds (not mast stays as I called them) L will have the correct hooks and blocks at the chainplates for attaching the tackles…..
 
BUT the just installed lines with double blocks should have been attached to fiddle blocks NOT double blocks - grrrrr. Mark I also feel your pain !
 
Now what should I do? Still thinking. Hmmmm.
 
My rigging may become the “Titanic” part of this build in any case. That said, I have for all intents-and-purposes nixed my “dreams” of adding sails. Skills are just not there. (I did buy the sail material) funny
 
OK done venting. Ha ha - After following those of you who have added sails to your beautiful Vasa CHEERS !  “I’m just not there”  
 
PS: Now if ONLY Vasa II got published, I might learn enough to “wing it” with sails, and certainly proper rigging.
 
PS 2: I SO appreciate all of your super nice comments, and I do feel comfortable as I have mentioned before with these posted bits of the build and, I do enjoy trying to create “ideas” for details that I have not yet seen visiting other builds.
 
I also plan, for example, to attempt building the main mast out of several main pieces a seen in Landtröm's book and from the museum mainmast plan sheet. I will try to give it the right perspective.
 
Michael

 
 

The quarter deck is planked.  I still can’t understand why I have so much trouble getting the shape of the planks to be as precise as some of my small furniture.  Next is to make kevels and add cleats and stuff.  Also, I’m going to have to have a go at making buckets.  There doesn’t seem to be anyway to avoid it.


 

More work has been taking place in the shipyard and la Couronne is getting her 2nd planking. I am using mahogany for the majority of the planking. The wales and some of the trim is walnut and the white sections at the gun ports are maple. I am trying to have minimal paint and so I want the wood's natural colors to do the job. There is an exception to this as I am using a dyed blue boxwood for parts on the upper hull. I like the look of the blue dye over paint in this case and as it is a small area I think it will look good. Might have some of that on in the next update.
 
I've stated mid ship installing the wales and working upward. I wanted to work on the "easier" part first before tackling the lower hull. I also needed to have good starting points and I've seen from other build logs and planking instructions that starting this way seems to be the most common route for planking. In the past I have tended to just do things my way and hope for the best. Although I am proud of my work, I have discovered a deep desire after viewing many remarkable builds on here to push myself harder to make a better ship. This has involved changing a lot my methods and habits and so far I am very glad I did.
 
I have also discovered that the kit did not come with nearly enough mahogany to plank this ship. Luckily Jason at Crown Timberyard has come through for me and found what I was needing. They say that a bad review will travel faster than a good one and so I am trying to change that. This was the second time I have ordered from Jason and I have been very pleased with the service each time. The wood is excellent quality, and his service, response and shipping is very good as well. This was even more noticeable this time as it was a custom order and not "off the shelf." He wen out of his way to find the lumber to match what I needed. I will use him for all my wood needs for ship building and highly recommend anyone not familiar with Crown Timberyard to check it out if you are needing wood for your build.
 
And now enjoy the pictures!
 

This is a prime example of why I love MSW. A great community with a wealth of knowledge that the members are willing to share with each other regardless of experience. My wish list on Amazon seems to grow longer with every visit.
 
I have purchased a couple of books already to help better understand ship rigging, "The Art of Rigging" by George Biddlecombe and "The Rigging of Ships: in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast, 1600-1720" by R.C. Anderson which deal specifically with the time period of my build, la Couronne. I have found both books to be useful so far though I will also check out some of the other suggestions that have been posted. I have rarely found one book with everything in it I need and often times information has changed as the years have gone by.
   

This is a prime example of why I love MSW. A great community with a wealth of knowledge that the members are willing to share with each other regardless of experience. My wish list on Amazon seems to grow longer with every visit.
 
I have purchased a couple of books already to help better understand ship rigging, "The Art of Rigging" by George Biddlecombe and "The Rigging of Ships: in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast, 1600-1720" by R.C. Anderson which deal specifically with the time period of my build, la Couronne. I have found both books to be useful so far though I will also check out some of the other suggestions that have been posted. I have rarely found one book with everything in it I need and often times information has changed as the years have gone by.
   

This is a prime example of why I love MSW. A great community with a wealth of knowledge that the members are willing to share with each other regardless of experience. My wish list on Amazon seems to grow longer with every visit.
 
I have purchased a couple of books already to help better understand ship rigging, "The Art of Rigging" by George Biddlecombe and "The Rigging of Ships: in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast, 1600-1720" by R.C. Anderson which deal specifically with the time period of my build, la Couronne. I have found both books to be useful so far though I will also check out some of the other suggestions that have been posted. I have rarely found one book with everything in it I need and often times information has changed as the years have gone by.
   

More work has been taking place in the shipyard and la Couronne is getting her 2nd planking. I am using mahogany for the majority of the planking. The wales and some of the trim is walnut and the white sections at the gun ports are maple. I am trying to have minimal paint and so I want the wood's natural colors to do the job. There is an exception to this as I am using a dyed blue boxwood for parts on the upper hull. I like the look of the blue dye over paint in this case and as it is a small area I think it will look good. Might have some of that on in the next update.
 
I've stated mid ship installing the wales and working upward. I wanted to work on the "easier" part first before tackling the lower hull. I also needed to have good starting points and I've seen from other build logs and planking instructions that starting this way seems to be the most common route for planking. In the past I have tended to just do things my way and hope for the best. Although I am proud of my work, I have discovered a deep desire after viewing many remarkable builds on here to push myself harder to make a better ship. This has involved changing a lot my methods and habits and so far I am very glad I did.
 
I have also discovered that the kit did not come with nearly enough mahogany to plank this ship. Luckily Jason at Crown Timberyard has come through for me and found what I was needing. They say that a bad review will travel faster than a good one and so I am trying to change that. This was the second time I have ordered from Jason and I have been very pleased with the service each time. The wood is excellent quality, and his service, response and shipping is very good as well. This was even more noticeable this time as it was a custom order and not "off the shelf." He wen out of his way to find the lumber to match what I needed. I will use him for all my wood needs for ship building and highly recommend anyone not familiar with Crown Timberyard to check it out if you are needing wood for your build.
 
And now enjoy the pictures!
 

There is one book that I know of that explains almost every part of the ship and rig.  Falconer's New Universal Dictionary of the Marine.  My copy is a reprint of the 1815 edition.
 
That being said, learning the ropes just takes time and practice.  Soon enough you will no longer be a landsman and you can earn your keep as an able bodied or ordinary sailor. Diligence, attention to detail, and hard experience will merit an assignment as a tops man in no time.  Maybe even a promotion to petty officer.
 
Aye lad, that be the life of a sailor!!

I'm going to suggest zu Mondfeld's Historic Ship Models.  There's a lot of good basic information in it including rigging.  And it's usually very reasonably priced online.  

Hi John;
 
There are at least two books,  '18th century rigs & rigging' by Karl Heinz Marquardt,  and 'The masting and rigging of English ships of war' by James Lees (which I can see that you have borrowed from the library [must be a good one,  to hold such titles] but perhaps not yet read)  which deal with the matter stage by stage.  They start with the masts and associated rigging,  then the yards and associated rigging,  and then the sails and associated rigging.  They finish with sections on different types of blocks,  and belaying. 
 
Neither of them has a glossary,  unfortunately,  which would be helpful for you;  but you will read about shrouds and stays in association with the masts,  and braces,  lifts and halliards in association with the yards;  then sheets,  tacks and buntlines in association with the sails.  By the time you have read Lees' book,  you should have a thorough knowledge of the basics.  Deeper knowledge can only come from re-reading,  drawing rigging diagrams,  and from rigging models.
 
Lennarth Peterson's book,  by the way,  despite its title,  only deals with the rigging of one particular ship at one particular period.  So whilst it is very good for a model of this type,  for earlier or larger vessels,  it is a somewhat limited source.
 
All the best,
 
Mark P

This will be my build log for the 1/23 scale Panart Kit, Section Deck Between Gun Bays also know as Posto Di Combattimento.
This is a secondary kit i am building which will be done when waiting for things like glue to dry or things to be sanded (I hate sanding ) on my other kit H.M.A.V. Bounty. So it will take longer than usual to complete.
Checked all the parts out and it all seems to be there but not sure if the Cannon trunions are missing or if they are made of dowel as the parts list doesn't say, either way it's a simple job to sort.


 
The wood looks to be good quality but some of the metalwork looks a bit iffy

Dave,
It sounds like what you need is one of those little tabletop/countertop convection type ovens.  When you're not drying the carvings, you can make yourself pizza.

I think I'm beginning to irritate the admiral a little.... calling into the house two or three times a day....
"Dear, would you mind heating up the oven again?" 

I'd be forever and a day carving all that. Amazing stuff Dave!  Nice work! 

Transom update....
 
All of the major sculptings for the transom are now completed and fitted to the off ship module.
At this point, there remains about thirty more figures to complete before I will be fitting the module to the stern.
 

 
Needing a little break from sculpting, I think I will now begin working on the beautiful lantern housing that fits in the center of the cap rail. 
I've been really anxious to do that piece forever.

Transom layout completed....
 
It took over 60 pieces of shaped and scraped trim moldings to do the panel layout for the transom.....not counting the outer edge trims, which will be sculpted figures of some sort.
 
Here, the finished layout is lightly tacked to the stern temporarily, in order to study and work out the fitting of all the edge trims.
 

 
I'll remove the module and begin creating the ten window units next. Then begin the beautiful lantern housing sitting atop the transom. All this will be done off ship.
 
The counter and rudder will necessarily be the last structures to be created only after the transom is finally fitted and trimmed out.